Cooking with "All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (Part 1)

[gourmande]

Question.  How do blade roasts fare as pot roasts?  Bruno's has blade roasts on for $2.99 lb but I hesitated to pick one up in case it's one of those cuts you just can't do anything with.

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I realize this is a bit late, but blade is one of my favourite cuts for both braises and stews. It is the only cut I use for my beef and ale or beef and Guinness pies

[Marlene]

I braised this blade roast on Sunday. It will be tomorrow night's dinner and I'll do my best to remember to take some pics of it.

[CharityCase]

I put my comments in the relevant eGCI Course on braising (as most of my advice came from there) but in short (rib):

I braised beef short ribs for three hours in a low oven, flavoureds the stock with rosemary, and flavoured the reduction with bay, peppercorns and oregano. It was fantastic and I'm more than happy to have lots of sauce remaining.

[Marlene]

I braised that sucker on Sunday and tonight we dined on Pot Roast, ala Molly Steven's from Fine Dining. This could easily be the most tender pot roast I've ever made:

Right out of the oven:

It's really hard from the picture to show you how moist and juicy this was:

I was going to make mashed potatoes, but I settled on fingerlings roasted in bacon fat and kosher salt

This time I finished the sauce with a cube of butter and it made a huge difference. I did not add vegetables to eat with it this time.

This is going to make some awesome beef dip sandwiches tomorrow. My new favourite way to eat leftover pot roast.

[viva]

Nice pot roast! It's making me hungry for a beef dip sandwich.

I made the (I forget the exact title) Red Pork Belly with Bok Choy this weekend. No pork belly at the local Safeway, had to use pork shoulder as a substitute, which worked out pretty well. The overall taste was very good and flavorful and the pork was very tender... *but* the dish is extremely salty... which comes from about 1/2 cup of regular and mushroom soy sauces. The recipe specifically states not to use "lite" soy sauce, but I'm thinking if I made it again I would try low sodium.

[snowangel]

Marlene, photos please of the French Dip sandwiches. What kind of bread do you use?

[Marlene]

Beef dip pictures there shall be. The bread will depend on what's fresh at the bakery tomorrow. We've used submarine buns, mini baquettes, and sometimes the long crusty rolls. Whatever bun we use, I always butter and toast the buns under the broiler first. Sometimes I make garlic butter and spread the buns with that before toasting.

[gourmande]

I braised that sucker on Sunday and tonight we dined on Pot Roast, ala Molly Steven's from Fine Dining.  This could easily be the most tender pot roast I've ever made... This is going to make some awesome beef dip sandwiches tomorrow.  My new favourite way to eat leftover pot roast.

Lovely roast Marlene. If you still have leftovers after your beef dip sandwiches, there's always shepherd's pie or beef pot pies..

[Marlene]

That's a great idea Lise. I'd love to try a beef pot pie actually.

[Marlene]

Beef dip sandwiches for dinner made from the left over pot roast from Molly's article in Fine Cooking

These are the buns we used. I was going to get the nice cibata (sp?) buns I saw, but then Ryan saw these and well, that was that. These suckers were huge.

I buttered mine and toasted it under the broiler, then put the pot roast on. It was really hard to slice this thin, since it had a tendency to shred, it was so tender. Next time I'll try either the electric carving knife, or I'll go buy myself a Wusthof meat slicer.

Voila, Beef Dip:

Bruno's still had this cut on sale when I was there today, so I grabbed two more and vacumn sealed them when I got home. Apparently, getting this cut in was an experiment for them, since they didn't think anyone would buy such an inexpensive cut in an upscale store. They have been surprised by how well this was received (the stuff flew out of the meat counter) and I reassured them on that point as well, and suggested if they'd like to get some really good short ribs in, I'd certainly be a steady customer for them. Particularly with the winter braising season almost upon us. I suggested they market them as "perfect for braising roasts" instead of "great pot roasts".

[gourmande]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH

Don't give them any ideas for upscale pricing on blade roasts! That's how flank steak got its high price. It used to be a nice cheap cut too until the foodie media (in all its forms) spilled the beans... then it became a gourmet cut commanding gourmet prices

I'm praying my butcher isn't a member here

Oh... great lookin' sammies BTW

[Celeste]

I made the Beef Rendang last night - incredibly delicious, complex flavor.

However, I had the same problem snowangel did in that the recipe says the oil starts to separate from the goo at around 2 1/2 hours... at 3 1/2 hours it was just starting to even think about separating and my dinner was getting laaate and my husband was threatening to go to bed before dinner was going to be done!

So I upped the heat. Big time. The dish ended up looking and tasting fantastic. Beautiful color and deep flavor. But I think my beef ended up a little tough from the higher heat cooking for the last hour or so, I imagine if properly done that it would be more fork tender. I ended up with cooking time of 4 1/2 hours even with the high heat for the last hour instead of her stated time of around 3 1/2 hours. I would imagine it would take up to 5 hours total if properly done.

Also, I was a little confused when she says to fry the beef in the separated oil for 45-60 minutes.... there's no accompanying suggestion to increase the heat. The term "fry" made me think it should be higher heat though. Snowangel, what heat level did you use when you "fried" the beef? I ended up going to medium-high, but that was partly because I was running out of time.

Regardless, my advice is to add at *least* a few hours to the printed braising time for this dish and then it will be perfect. Highly recommended dish!

[snowangel]

I can't believe I didn't make any notes in the cookbook when I did the Beef Rendang.

I do remember that I cut the cubes on the smaller side -- 1-1/2" instead of 2". I do remember that I started it in the LC 7 quart that I have and I dumped it into a skillet at about 2 hours into it.

I think starting it in the LC was a great thing because it held more moisture in which allowed the beef to get more tender.

And, as I recall, I did up the heat once it started to separate.

This will be on the menu soon as I have a nice chuck roast in the freezer. I'll take better notes!

It's an odd meat braise in that it is done stove-top. I wonder what would happen if one started it in the oven and finished it on the stove?

[arriba!]

I finally ordered a copy of this wonderful book after keeping the library's copy checked for so long I am sure they thought it would never be returned! I have made several recipes(all have been discussed), loved every one! I have read through this thread in hopes of reading of someone having made the cabbage rolls--LOVE them and will be making this involved recipe soon. First will order some good sauerkraut--just don't want to use canned or grocery store jar product for this recipe. I hoped someone had made this recipe and had suggestions for success. I will post if I make them.

[fifi]

I can't believe I didn't make any notes in the cookbook when I did the Beef Rendang.

I do remember that I cut the cubes on the smaller side -- 1-1/2" instead of 2".  I do remember that I started it in the LC 7 quart that I have and I dumped it into a skillet at about 2 hours into it.

I think starting it in the LC was a great thing because it held more moisture in which allowed the beef to get more tender. 

And, as I recall, I did up the heat once it started to separate.

This will be on the menu soon as I have a nice chuck roast in the freezer.  I'll take better notes!

It's an odd meat braise in that it is done stove-top.  I wonder what would happen if one started it in the oven and finished it on the stove?

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Now that I think about it, I think I did about the same thing. I braised it in the LC at my usual 250 F and I think I did "finish" it on top of the stove. The braising got the tender succulence I was after and the quick finish made the sauce separate as it should. OH . . . I used pork as well but I would bet the same idea would apply to beef.

I didn't take any notes, either.

Now if someone could tell me how to get the tumeric stain out of my cutting board, I would appreciate.

[snowangel]

Bisteces Rancheros for dinner the other night. Inspired by a really wonderful batch of poblanos from the farmer's market, and some leftover tomatoes I had roasted. I didn't have a clue how much is in a can of tomatoes, so I by-guessed-and-by-gollied. I also tossed in a roasted jalapeno.

Mighty tasty, if unattractive. So many of the meat braises just don't photo well.

Anyway, the leftovers are wonderful, slightly warmed, shredded and served on a tortilla with some crunchy iceberg lettuce. I wanted mine spicier, so I minced up some bird chilis, added them to the warmed meat on the tortilla, sat on the deck with an icy cold beer, and had a mighty fine lunch.

[helenas]

i sort of forgot about the book but a recent issue of australian vogue had a recipe for apple cider braised pork belly adapted from Molly's, with couple of changes to the original - one cup of stock is substituted for one cup of semi-sweet applce cider, and mirin is used instead of dark? (mushroom? - i don't remember and don't have the book with me) soy sauce.

I also compared the recipe to my favorite aromatic pork belly hot pot from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's MEAT book:

Adding two easy steps that Stevens skips:

1. simmeering pork pieces for some 5mins to get rid of most scum (widely used technique) at the beginning;

2. straining the cooking liquid at the end (nothing unique here either);

one gets such an esthetically pleasing sauce...

anyway i really recommend trying the dish using an apple cider

[Mottmott]

I did my first braise of the season (shortribs), winging it with red wine and dried porcini, spices, etc. It was great. But I will get this book. Your report on some of the recipes are seducing.

But what I want to suggest to those who make their own pasta, try using some of your braised meat as ravioli fillings. I sauted some shallots, then added hand minced shortrib meat and some of the porcini chopped finely. I served it with a simple splash of evoo, cut up some chives on top and sprinkled with parmesan. Somehow these little pasta encased bundles (about a heaping tsp) of meat seemed even more intense than the typically larger serving had been. I'm sure it would work equally well with many of the braises you've written about, perhaps even the veggie braises. And I plan to try this with empanadas, too.

[gourmande]

...But what I want to suggest to those who make their own pasta, try using some of your braised meat as ravioli fillings...

That is such a fantastic idea! With just the two of us, I always end up with a ton of leftover meat. This would be a great way way to serve leftovers yet not have them look like leftovers

The raviolis would also freeze quite well I imagine.

[Marlene]

Is everyone using english style short ribs for their short rib braises? That's what I used the first time, but recently all I've been able to get is the flanken style. Think these will work as well?

[fifi]

I used the flanken style in one of my trials. (I don't remember which.) They worked great. I had only started to consider them for an actual dish. I found them at my local HEB and had only used them for fill in for beef stock before I got into this book. I did rinse them well since they seemed to have a lot of "bandsaw gunk" left on them from the cross cutting of the bones.

[Mottmott]

...But what I want to suggest to those who make their own pasta, try using some of your braised meat as ravioli fillings...

That is such a fantastic idea! With just the two of us, I always end up with a ton of leftover meat. This would be a great way way to serve leftovers yet not have them look like leftovers

The raviolis would also freeze quite well I imagine.

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Yes they do freeze well. (on a sheet pan, then bag them works for me) And as for serving leftovers this way, they're a feast fit for your favorite guests. My always appreciative but seldom effusive DIL could barely contain herself over how good they were. Just keep the sauce simple and complementary if the filling flavor is already complex.

I live alone, so when I make braised meats or other volumetric dishes, it's some for company, give some away to family, and freeze. I hate eating leftovers day after day!

Next time I do braised meat, I will also try using it as empanada or meatpie filling.

[forever_young_ca]

I did the World's Best Cabbage this weekend and loved it.

I served it with an old fashioned braised Swiss Steak that was falling apart tender and noodles. A fabulous fall combination!

[constanela]

I was looking at a batch of defrosted chicken thighs this weekend and wondering how to cook them for dinner. Chicken..........again. As I reached for one of my cookbooks, I saw Molly's book on the shelf. I haven't touched it since spring. I opened the pages and found that I had nearly all the ingredients for Chicken Do-Piaza. I substituted cumin for the coriander seeds and tumeric because that was all I had on hand. To compensate for my lack of coriander seeds, I added a big handful of chopped cilantro at the end along with the yogurt. It was outstanding. I will make this dish again and again. I took pictures and tried to post them here, but it seems to be technologically beyond me (any hints are appreciated). I did blog about it though, if you'd like to check it out.

Every recipe in this book has been good, but this one was great. The sauce/braising liquid becomes something more.....much more....than the sum of it's parts.

[Marlene]

I used the flanken style in one of my trials. (I don't remember which.) They worked great. I had only started to consider them for an actual dish. I found them at my local HEB and had only used them for fill in for beef stock before I got into this book. I did rinse them well since they seemed to have a lot of "bandsaw gunk" left on them from the cross cutting of the bones.

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Ok then. I've got a whole bunch of these flanken style short ribs so I'll be trying Molly's red wine/porcini recipe (without the porcini's thanks). I'm going to do the marinade thing and I'll marinate in plastic ziplock bags because the shape of these ribs will be perfect for laying flat in the bags. I'm going to start them marinading today and will probably make them on Thursday for dinner.