Japanese foods--tofu

[Amy Eber]

Could you share your recipe for momen doufu? Thanks.

[Hiroyuki]

Could you share your recipe for momen doufu?  Thanks.

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I think you have asked shinju, not me, but if you'd ask me, I would suggest referring to this thread:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=44086#make

[helenjp]

I haven't made silken tofu, and it's a long time since I made momen tofu, but from memory, things that can cause trouble with coagulation include:

temperature too hot or cool

soybeans stale

stirring too vigorously

...and from what I recall, sometimes it just wouldn't coagulate for the pure hell of it!

Are you using bittern (nigari) or calcium sulfate (or magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) as your coagulant? It's been so long that I hesitate to give advice, but if you are having trouble with mixing hot (176degF or 80degC) soy milk with your coagulant, try cooling the coagulant to 65degC (150degF); or even cooling it right down, mixing in the bittern, and then raising the heat back up to 80degC. That's supposed to help, because it allows the bittern to disperse and set the tofu more evenly. Apparently it will coagulate very fast and unevenly if given half a chance.

[shinju]

Thank you for replying.

Hiroyuki - I'll check those sites when I get home (I can only access Japanese encoding at home).

Helenjp - since I make momen tofu (from beans) often, I've experimented with granular nigari, liquid nigari, epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) and different proportions. So far, I really like granular nigari the best for momen tofu. I''ve used "Book of Tofu" recipe for making my tofu, but strayed away a bit from their direction since I normally do not like very stiff tofu, and their recipe make tofu too stiff for my liking.

For making silken tofu, their recipe calls for making rich soy milk (more beans than regular momen tofu) and using nigari, magnesium sulfate or calcium sulfate (this latter is best for pressed silken tofu according to the author). I've tried 4-5 times (not pressed silken, but in the rectugantular container type) using both nigari and epsom salt - disaster - more like soy milk potage. I'm hesitating using calcium sulfate because it just sounds awful to me. It is gypsum right....I've worked with gypsum boards when we remodeled our home and I can't imagine using it for cooking.

When I get home, I'll post the recipe I used for making silken tofu and perhaps someone can see the problem area.

I've not seen any recipes for making tofu using microwave, but it sounds intriguing. Have to check that out too.

BTW, is oboro and sukui tofu similar? Any idea on how to make them?

[Hiroyuki]

BTW, is oboro and sukui tofu similar?  Any idea on how to make them?

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Why do you know what I don't know?

I learned that oboro dofu is also called kumi dofu, sukui dofu, and yose dofu.

How to make them? That's easy! You already have.

This blog (Japanese only) is interesting in that it shows you how to make oboro, zaru, and momen dofu in that order. In 40 minutes after bittern is put in, you scoop up some and put it in a pack, and oboro dofu is made. Then, you scoop up some and put it in a zaru (colander), and zaru dofu is made. Finally, you break down tofu in smaller pieces, put it in a mold, and put a weight on it to drain, and momen dofu is made!

[helenjp]

Calcium sulfate is very commonly used. I have used it, long ago.

Oboro dofu, yes, same thing as sukui dofu. To get that you lower the temp of the soy milk to around 150degF or a tad higher, then mix in the coagulant and allow to sit 45 mins. I haven't made it, I admit - wasn't as popular then as it is now.

I used to work in a Chinese grocery when I was a student, and the only tofu the owner's wife made was tofu "flowers", or soft curds in whey, eaten with syrup. She would make it for us staff as a treat on late nights.

[shinju]

Here is the instruction on making homemade silken tofu (not pressed silken tofu)

1 1/2 C soybeans, soaked in 4-6 cups of water for about 10 hours

1. Place a deep, 6-8 qt pot in sink, set a large colander in mouth of pot and line colander with a moistened pressing sack approximately 15 in by 15 in made of coarse weave linen (with a mesh big enough to poke a pin through), or coarse 2 foot square dish cloth.

2. Divide soaked beans into 3 equal parts. Preheat plastic or glass blender bowl by pouring in 2-3 cups of hot water first to warm the bowl. Discard the water.

3. In the blender combine 1 portion of soaked beans with 2 C boiling water and puree at high speed for for 1 minute, or until very smooth. Pour puree into sack or dish cloth in colander. Puree remaining portions of beans with 2 C hot boiling water each and pour into sack or dish cloth. Rinse out blender with 1/4 C boiling water to retrieve any puree, and pour into sack or dish cloth.

4. Twist mouth of sack or dish cloth closed. Using a a glass jar or potato masher, press sack repeatedly against bottom of colander to extract as much soymilk as possible. Shake solids (okara) into one order of sack, twise further closed, and press again. Open mouth of sack wide in colander, stir okara briefly, then pour 2 1/2 C boiling water over okara. Stir again. Twist sack closed and press repeatedly with jar. Transfer pot containing soymilk to stove. Reserve okara for other use.

5. Bring soymilk to a boil over medium high heat, stirring bottom of cooking pot constnatly with a wooden spatula to prevent sticking. When milk comes to boil (foam will suddenly rise in pot), reduce heat to medium and simmer for about 7 minutes. Remove pot from burner.

Coagulant for 3 1/4 C rich homemade soymilk

(1) For delicate, subtly-sweet silken tofu - 1/2 tsp magneium chloride or calcium chloride; 3/8 tsp granular or powdered natural nigari; 1/3 to 1 tsp liquid nigari.

(2) For firm, mild silken tofu - 1/2 tsp epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) or calcium sulfate

6. Place a 1 1/2 to 3 quart serving bowl on a firm surface and pour in freshly made hot soymilk; cover. In a small cup mix the coagulant with 2 T water and stir until dissolved.

7. Stir soymilk back and forth briskly for 3 to 5 seconds, then quickly pour in all of the coagulant solution. Continue stirring soymilk for 3 to 5 seconds more, making sure to stir to bottom of container. Stop spoon upright in center of soymilk and wait until turbulence ceases; lift out spoon.

8. Let soymilk stand uncovered and undisturbed for 20-30 minutes while it cools and solidifies. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.

9. To serve, ladle the silken tofu individual serving dishes.

***I've used both nigari and epsom salt and still can't get silken tofu to set properly. I'll try calcium sulfate next time.

Thank you very much for any information. It would be great to perfect this recipe so that I can share the recipe with others (like me) who do not have the access to great tasting silken tofu available in tofu shops in Japan.

[shinju]

BTW, is oboro and sukui tofu similar?  Any idea on how to make them?

←

Why do you know what I don't know?

I learned that oboro dofu is also called kumi dofu, sukui dofu, and yose dofu.

How to make them? That's easy! You already have.

This blog (Japanese only) is interesting in that it shows you how to make oboro, zaru, and momen dofu in that order. In 40 minutes after bittern is put in, you scoop up some and put it in a pack, and oboro dofu is made. Then, you scoop up some and put it in a zaru (colander), and zaru dofu is made. Finally, you break down tofu in smaller pieces, put it in a mold, and put a weight on it to drain, and momen dofu is made!

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That blog is great Hiroyuki! That's the kind of silken tofu I'm aiming for - big chunks of curds and not small tiny bits of curds. I have to study this much, much more. Even when making regular momen tofu, you need to get large chunks of curds into pressing container instead of small curds like cottage cheese. You get small curds when not properly made.

[Hiroyuki]

Here is the instruction on making homemade silken tofu (not pressed silken tofu)

1 1/2 C soybeans, soaked in 4-6 cups of water for about 10 hours

1.  Place a deep, 6-8 qt  pot in sink, set a large colander in mouth of pot and line colander with a moistened pressing sack approximately 15 in by 15 in made of coarse weave linen (with a mesh big enough to poke a pin through), or coarse 2 foot square dish cloth.

2.  Divide soaked beans into 3 equal parts.  Preheat plastic or glass blender bowl by pouring in 2-3 cups of hot water first to warm the bowl.  Discard the water. 

3.  In the blender combine 1 portion of soaked beans with 2 C boiling water and puree at high speed for for 1 minute, or until very smooth.  Pour puree into sack or dish cloth in colander.  Puree remaining portions of beans with 2 C hot boiling water each and pour into sack or dish cloth.  Rinse out blender with 1/4 C boiling water to retrieve any puree, and pour into sack or dish cloth.

4.  Twist mouth of sack or dish cloth closed.  Using a a glass jar or potato masher, press sack repeatedly against bottom of colander to extract as much soymilk as possible.  Shake solids (okara) into one order of sack, twise further closed, and press again.  Open mouth of sack wide in colander, stir okara briefly, then pour 2 1/2 C boiling water over okara.  Stir again.  Twist sack closed and press repeatedly with jar.  Transfer pot containing soymilk to stove.  Reserve okara for other use. 

5.  Bring soymilk to a boil over medium high heat, stirring bottom of cooking pot constnatly with a wooden spatula to prevent sticking.  When milk comes to boil (foam will suddenly rise in pot), reduce heat to medium and simmer for about 7 minutes.  Remove pot from burner. 

Coagulant for 3 1/4 C rich homemade soymilk

    (1)  For delicate, subtly-sweet silken tofu - 1/2 tsp magneium chloride or calcium chloride; 3/8 tsp granular or powdered natural nigari; 1/3 to 1 tsp liquid nigari.

    (2)  For firm, mild silken tofu - 1/2 tsp epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) or calcium sulfate

6.  Place a 1 1/2 to 3 quart serving bowl on a firm surface and pour in freshly made hot soymilk; cover.  In a small cup mix the coagulant with 2 T water and stir until dissolved. 

7.  Stir soymilk back and forth briskly for 3 to 5 seconds, then quickly pour in all of the coagulant solution.  Continue stirring soymilk for 3 to 5 seconds more, making sure to stir to bottom of container.  Stop spoon upright in center of soymilk and wait until turbulence ceases; lift out spoon. 

8.  Let soymilk stand uncovered and undisturbed for 20-30 minutes while it cools and solidifies.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled. 

9.  To serve, ladle the silken tofu individual serving dishes. 

***I've used both nigari and epsom salt and still can't get silken tofu to set properly.  I'll try calcium sulfate next time. 

Thank you very much for any information.  It would be great to perfect this recipe so that I can share the recipe with others (like me)  who do not have the access to great tasting silken tofu available in tofu shops in Japan.

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Wow, quite impressive! So much work, so many steps to make a single foodstuff! Be sure to include some photos when you post a perfect recipe.

One quick question: What do you do with your okara?

[Hiroyuki]

I've had sort of a tofu obsession lately. First I discovered otokomae tofu. This is an amazing company from ibaraki prefecture that has made it big, their tofu is really popular. I've tried a bunch of different types of otokomae tofu. My favorite is the one that has the name that ends in "johnny". It is incredibly creamy, it's really amazing. If you can find otokomae's products near you I recommend them, I had a sort of tofu epiphany after trying nantoka johnny. After getting turned on to tofu my otokomae I decided to make my own tofu. I used store bought soy milk that was made of only green soy beans and water. The results were great, I let it drain overnight and was able to enjoy creamy and fresh hiyayakko.

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I finally bought one of their products:

135 yen if I remember correctly. I admit that this is one of the tastiest tofu I have ever had, creamy and dense. But I don't think I will be addicted to it.

[helenjp]

This is interesting! I finally decided that in the interests of eGullet research, I needed to buy some of this stuff. So I bought a "Kaze ni Fukarete Tofu-ya Johnny" double-pack of tofu to try....and neither of my kids completely finished theirs. They didn't refuse to eat it, but my husband and I strongly disliked it. It tasted strongly green and beany, so maybe they use undried, green soybeans? (Disclaimer: I have a mild allergy to soybeans which is most evident with green "eda-mame", so I'm not an impartial judge!)

To be honest, the impression I had from the aftertaste was not so much the "extra-thick soymilk" the manufacturers claim to use, as the impression that soybean oil had been mixed into the soymilk.

That's only my impression, but if I were going to splash out on expensive tofu, I'd rather buy fresh yuba any day.

[Hiroyuki]

I bought this one from Otokomae. It's silken tofu. I'm not sure how it's called, but I think it's Tetsuo. It's creamy and dense like other Otokomae tofu. My children and I had it as hiyayakko (cold tofu) with ponzu. None of us liked it. My son said, "I like regular tofu better." My daughter had only two pieces. I had almost all of the 300-g Tetsuo, and I was almost tired of eating it. I don't think it goes well with rice. I will never buy this expesensive (198 yen) tofu again, and I don't want to try other products of Otokomae.

Edited to add: I was right. The product name is Tetsuo.

Edited November 26, 2007 by Hiroyuki (log)

[helenjp]

I finally figured out how to use mine up, since nobody wanted to eat it fresh! I made a tamago-toji with tofu, shiitake, and mitsuba. Now it's all gone!

[Hiroyuki]

I still have an upset stomach due to having that creamy tofu three hours ago. Now I really don't understand all the fuss that people make about Otokomae tofu. When I first read John's initial post about it, I almost asked, "Do you want creaminess in tofu??" But I thought it was a bit offensive then. Now I can say that I don't want creaminess in tofu.

[JasonTrue]

I've tested making tofu with frozen edamame myself, and it doesn't work so well, so I don't think they would have used non-dried daizu, at least not as a primary ingredient. From what I've read, tofu makers that sell "edamame tofu" mix it with some regular soybeans and then most likely have to add some coloring, natural or otherwise.

http://starbulletin.com/2001/09/19/features/ingredient.html

Edamame "flavored" tofu I've tried in Japan was nice, but the ones I've tried used some additional thickening agents beyond nigari.

[torakris]

This was an interesting find for me. Yamaimo tofu (tofu with grated mountain yam) had a wonderful texture and flavor.

[_john]

was it slimey?

[torakris]

was it slimey?

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Sort of, more so than regular tofu but in a good way. Actually that sounds weird, if regular tofu was slimey it would be a very bad thing.

It had a slightly slimey texture to it but even if you don't like the sliminess of yamaimo/nagaimo this wouldn't bother you.

[shinju]

I still have an upset stomach due to having that creamy tofu three hours ago.  Now I really don't understand all the fuss that people make about Otokomae tofu.  When I first read John's initial post about it, I almost asked, "Do you want creaminess in tofu??"  But I thought it was a bit offensive then.  Now I can say that I don't want creaminess in tofu.

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I feel the same way as you. I do not like them at all. It is too rich for my taste and has a very funny slimy mouthfeel.

[sanrensho]

I recently had the opportunity to try Otokomae (Masahiro and Hiyayakko) tofu for the first time and was quite impressed, especially with the Masahiro. I enjoyed the creaminess and texture a lot, although a little goes a long way. You can almost eat this stuff on its own, and I think it would add a fantastically rich taste/texture for mousses and other cold desserts that use tofu.

If I had access to this stuff, I'd probably eat a small portion of it every day for either breakfast or dinner. It is that good.