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Posted

The big box from Brooklyn Copper Cookware (BCC) arrived, and with anticipation I unpacked the 6 QT casserole + lid, and the 3 QT sauté pan. They are thick and heavy beautifully hand-made tin-lined 3mm copper pots with cast iron handles.

Brooklyn Copper Cookware is on to something - these pots are very special indeed and BCC deserves hearty congratulations for producing these wonders! I am in awe - these are artisanal masterpieces, heirloom cookware that will make many wonderful meals during my lifetime and for generations to come. I can't wait to start cooking with them!

BCC currently offers a selective range of products including a 3 QT sauté pan, a 3 QT rondeau, and a 6 QT casserole with a 10” lid that also fits on all of their current 9.5” diameter pots. They will be reintroducing a slightly smaller 14 QT version of their original 16 QT stock pot, and have announced the pending release of 1, 2, and 3 QT sauce pans:

http://www.brooklyncoppercookware.com

The Brooklyn Copper Cookware pots are more artisanal than my Mauviel pieces. The BCC pots are thick 3mm copper lined with tin, and they are entirely made by hand. My Mauviel pots & pans are all current production (acquired new in 2015) 2.5mm copper lined with SS, except for a tin-lined 11" rondeau which is 3.3mm thick. Mauviel is made on a larger scale with more automation, and so appear to be more modern than the BCC pots.

If I could use a musical example to illustrate the similarities and differences between Mauviel and BCC: Imagine the Bach cello suites played on a modern cello with steel strings by Mstislav Rostropovich as opposed to Anner Bylsma playing a Stradivarius cello with gut strings. Rostropovich is appealing to more modern sensibilities in his style of playing, while Bylsma is striving for authenticity with a more historically informed performance practice that is as close as possible to what Bach would have heard. Both performances are superlative, engaging, and relevant - I enjoy them both immensely, and they both nourish the soul. To me Mauviel is akin to the more modern interpretation, and BCC is the more authentic and historically informed performance. They both have a place in my kitchen.

I imagine that Mauviel made pots in say 1905 that were more comparable to what BCC makes today than to what Mauviel is currently producing. They have grown far beyond the operation they started in 1830, and have evolved into a modern interpretation of their artisanal roots. They are still a relatively small company owned and run by the 7th generation of the founding family, but they have a product range that appeals to multiple markets and price points, of which high-end copper is but one of their offerings. BCC on the other-hand is making a selective range of artisanal copper products by hand and without compromise. They are appealing to those cooks who want to reach the pinnacle of their craft, much as the Stradivarius workshop once did for musicians many generations ago.

Posted (edited)

they are beautiful, Id say

 

however, tin these days makes no sense. its more of a historical curiosity 

 

you can get 3 mm , perhaps 3.5 mm SS lined pots if thats important to you

 

 

 

http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/

 

site seems to be down.

Edited by rotuts (log)
  • Like 2
Posted

 @Toronto416  Gorgeous stuff. Thanks for posting this. And I like your analogy. (I own the Bylsma recording on Pro Arte; it's my favorite of all. Many years ago I was fortunate enough to hear him performing the last three suites, in an intimate recital in Detroit.)

"There is no sincerer love than the love of food."  -George Bernard Shaw, Man and Superman, Act 1

 

"Imagine all the food you have eaten in your life and consider that you are simply some of that food, rearranged."  -Max Tegmark, physicist

 

Gene Weingarten, writing in the Washington Post about online news stories and the accompanying readers' comments: "I basically like 'comments,' though they can seem a little jarring: spit-flecked rants that are appended to a product that at least tries for a measure of objectivity and dignity. It's as though when you order a sirloin steak, it comes with a side of maggots."

 

A king can stand people's fighting, but he can't last long if people start thinking. -Will Rogers, humorist

Posted

Gorgeous, they look like works of art for sure.  But, I admit it -- I'm looking forward to hearing whether the food confirms the Stradivarius nod. 

Posted

The trepidation regarding cooking with tin-lined copper cookware is overblown in my opinion.  Copper has superlative thermal conductivity, as does tin.  With proper care and attention, you can protect the tin lining for many years.  All you have to do is use wood or silicone utensils, and never metal ones, and clean it with only a soft sponge.  You also have to be mindful that tin begins to melt around 425 degrees, so you will not leave an empty pan on a hot burner or sear streaks in a tin-lined pan - that is what cast iron is for!

 

The advantages of tin are twofold - it has excellent thermal conductivity, and it is very smooth and non-stick relative to say stainless steel.  A tin-lined copper rondeau is ideal for say browning and then braising meat.

 

When Julia Child published "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" in 1961, she did much or her cooking in tin-lined heavy copper cookware.  And if you watch her early black and white videos, she did not baby that cookware or avoid using metal utensils.  She bought all of her copper cookware in Paris from E. Dehillerin, which continues to sell copper cookware made in Normandy by Mauviel.  Today the thicker copper cookware is available lined with either stainless steel or traditional tin.

 

In the chapter on Kitchen Equipment in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, under the heading 'A Note on Copper Pots' Julia Child wrote:  "Copper pots are the most satisfactory of all to cook in, as they hold and spread the heat well, and their tin lining does not discolour foods.  ...... To get the full benefit of cooking in copper, the metal must be 1/8 of an inch thick, and the handle should be of heavy iron.  The interior of the pot is lined with a wash of tin, which must be renewed every several years when it wears off...".

 

To my horror she also wrote cleaning instructions that today would be considered destructive:  "The tin lining is cleaned with steel wool and scouring powder, but do not expect it to glitter brightly again once you have used the pot for cooking.  (All cleaning, alas, removes infinitesimal bits of the tin lining.)" - And so would sand-blasting it!!!!  A gentler approach would be the standard of care today!

 

Tin-lined heavy copper cookware has it's place next to more modern stainless steel lined copper cookware, and both have pride of place on my shelf as I enjoy learning how best to cook with them.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On January 18, 2016 at 10:27 AM, rotuts said:

 

 

http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/

 

I visited dehlerin this summer. Great store. I bought a spun steel pan for the friends we stayed with. At first I almost threw a fit over the price of the thing ... and then realized the number was millimeters, not Euros. The pan was actually a bargain. If it hadn't weighed as much as barbell I'd have picked up another to bring home.

 

  • Like 2

Notes from the underbelly

Posted (edited)
On 1/23/2016 at 7:24 AM, Toronto416 said:

The demise of tin-lined heavy copper cookware is as overblown as the demise of sailing, riding horses, film cameras, beeswax candles, and wearing stockings with garters.

 

E.Dehillerin sells a large array of tin lined copper cookware - all new current production pieces by Mauviel that are constantly being replenished:

 

http://eshop.e-dehillerin.fr/en/copper-copper-lined-with-tin-xsl-243_271.html

 

If you go to Mauviel's French language site, you will see the tin-lined M'tradition line of heavy tin-lined cookware - just click 'Francais' and then 'les collections':

 

http://www.mauviel.com

 

If you click the English language option you are redirected to the American distributor's site, and alas no tin-lined copper.

 

I ordered a new current-production 11" heavy copper tin-lined Mauviel rondeau from France in November 2015.  It is 3.3-3.5mm thick, and marvellous for browning and then braising meat.  The tin is quite non-stick, the pan suffers no hot-spots, and the thick copper conducts heat such that the contents are enveloped with heat, permitting wonderful stove-top braises.  It of course also performs very well in the oven, but so do vessels that would not be suitable for stove-top braising.

 

Cooks far more experienced than me have touted the advantages of heavy tin-lined copper cookware (see boilsover above, and the many photographic examples he provided of copper pots being very much in evidence in professional kitchens).  As mentioned above, Julia Child was a big fan of tin-lined heavy copper cookware (just don't follow her cleaning instructions).  When she was developing and testing the recipes in her 1961 classic Mastering the Art of French Cooking, she did most of that using tin-lined heavy copper cookware she had bought from E.Dehillerin.  If tin-lined heavy copper cookware was good enough for developing one of the greatest and most enduring cookbooks of all time, then that's good enough for us mere mortals.  

 

Julia Child would have been excited to see the quality of cookware now being made in the USA by companies such as Brooklyn Copper Cookware.  I just wanted to bring attention to this old-world artisanal approach to making copper cookware for those who value slowing down to make good food, drink good wine, and enjoy good company while respecting tradition and indulging in the finer things in life.

 

 

 

The problem is that you can't tell from the website which pieces are thicker than 2.5mm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Welcome to eGullet, Toronto. 

 

And thanks for your review.  Few people here have spent much--if any--time cooking in thick, tin-lined bottoms, so you must excuse them for slamming this construction as antiquated.

 

I believe Mac Kohler's Brooklyn Copper Cookware will succeed in much the same way that my friend Bob Kramer's knives have.  

 

Please post again when you've used these fabulous wares--with photos.

Edited by boilsover
Edited at Smithy's direction. Thanks! (log)
Posted

Think Anna N and I saw a few pieces of Brooklyn Copper at Homesense (like Marshall's) a couple of weeks ago. We were struck by how beautifully heavy the copper was - but I do recall thinking that it appeared to be tinned instead of lined with stainless and that would be an issue for me.

 

Anytime I've tried to get something re-tinned it's been a huge problem. Toronto416 - are you aware of any re-tinning places in the GTA?

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Kerry Beal said:

...Brooklyn Copper at Homesense (like Marshall's) a couple of weeks ago...

 

 

 

I seriously doubt that.  All their production has always been small (BCC/Hammersmith v1.0 couldn't even fill all its prepaid direct orders), and I'd be shocked if any retailers ever got any that could possibly find its way onto a liquidator's shelves.  BCC v2.0 is just now in production, and those are full-on 3mm beauties.

 

Kerry, if you saw copperware at a major liquidator, it was likely Baumalu, and perhaps some odd Mauviel pieces.  Maybe in Canada, also Paderno PEI.

 

If you did/do see any BCC wares in Homesense, would you please grab it for me?

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

Brooklyn Copper Cookware 3 Quart Sauté—Worth the Wait

 

 

 

Lead View Cropped 2.jpg

Figure 1 -- It's here!

The BCC Story

 

                A few years ago, what started as an arms-length business transaction with Brooklyn Copper Cookware blossomed into a friendship with its once and future owner, Mac Kohler.  This was back when BCC’s production work was done with the help of Hammersmith.  For those who don’t know, Hammersmith was heir to the old and well-worn machine tooling used to make the long-defunct Waldow lines of American copperware.  From BCC’s founding, Mac has always had the passion and vision to make copper pans—top grade pans—in America again.  BCC and Hammersmith succeeded in making very good wares, and developed a loyal following.

 

                What Mac did not have in those days was a means to produce true restaurant- and hotel-grade copper pans, what we collectors and the French cuisiners call “extra fort”.  While “fort” at 2-2.5mm in thickness makes for good pans indeed, 2.4mm was the thickest metal the creaky Waldow hand-me-down tooling could handle.   Even chefs and cooks who could justify dropping $400 on a single pan sometimes balked at a 2-something-mm sauté when there were 3-something-mm ones to be had.  And, some sniffed, what does an American know about making the very best copper pans?

 

                What Mac also didn’t have was dependable production capacity to fill orders for BCC’s pans.  This was partly due to the fact that Hammersmith’s work with pans was not their bread and butter—painstakingly making and fitting architectural metal in New York City rail stations was.  It was also the case that skilled metalworkers were rare in Brooklyn.   So orders lagged, customers started grumbling, and the copper snobs kept sniffing.  When Hurricane Sandy, a major gas leak, and a lost lease conspired to halt production completely, BCC and Hammersmith went their separate ways, and it looked like the end.

 

                Passion is a marvelous thing.  Mac had it, never lost it.  It took him and his new partner, Lane Halley, years, blood, sweat and tears, to resurrect BCC.  Mac turned to the heartland to find the materials, tooling, capacity and worker skill sets he would need to make extra fort pans, cast his handles, assemble them, and line their wares with tin.  BCC utilized a top casting designer for what are destined to become iconic iron handles.  It’s a success story within a success story:  Not only are BCC’s pans American-made, they’re produced by metal crafters in America’s rust belt who kept these irreplaceable skills alive like a lost language.  And, as you’ll read, while the BCC v2.0 pans are at least the equals of the greatest European makers’, they stand apart as unmistakably American in form.

 

                Fair disclosure:  Mac gave me this pan to review.

 

A Pan by the Numbers

 

Floor View.jpg

Figure 2

 

                At present, the pans BCC offers (sauté, rondeau, casserole, and stockpot) are all 9.5” or 24cm in inside diameter.  This number relates to the fact that all can be spun using the same 9.5” diameter lathe tooling.  Sautés, unlike frypans, are sized not by diameter but volume; in this case the sauté is truthfully advertized as 3 quarts.  However, putting 3 quarts in this pan entails raising a meniscus above the pan’s rim.  One quart submerges a rivet, and two quarts would be all the liquid a jittery cook would ever put in it.  The floor of the pan is 8.25” or almost 21cm in diameter.

 

                This sauté weighs 6.8 pounds, or roughly 3 kilos.  Needless to say, this feels heavy, especially at the end of a handle—few cooks will be able to jump this pan one-handed.  Fortunately however, BCC has paired it with both a long (10”/25.5cm) tongue and a loop helper handle.  Much more on those in a minute, but for a pan this heavy, it’s been made as jumpable/shakable as possible.

 

                The pan stands 2 11/16” or 6.8cm tall at the walls.  This yields a height-to-diameter ratio of 1:2.8, which is a classic proportion for sautés.  Its total overall height, from underside to handle top, is only 5.75” or 14.7cm.  This makes it easily stowable in short cupboards and shelving.  The short handle rise also allows this sauté to hug within 4 inches of a wall when hung from a hook; compare this with over 6” protrusion for most classic sautés.

 

Hanging View.jpg

Figure 3 --Note the Protrusion Difference

 

When hung freely from an overhead rack, the pan only occupies 6” of horizontal space—a saving of 2 inches over my other sautés.   However, the long tongue and helper handles together mean that the pan’s overall length is a surprising span of 22 inches.

 

                BCC states that its pans are made from full 1/8” copper foil.  It also advertises that its pans are 3mm thick.  Since 1/8” is almost 3.2mm, I asked Mac why BCC doesn’t tout the higher 3.2mm number.  The answer came back that, while the foil itself is 3.175mm, the turning process moves material on the mandrel, effectively stretching and thinning the walls as the pan is formed up to the rim.  My measurements verified that the sauté’s floor is indeed 3.2mm, and that the walls measured between 0.108 and 0.110 inches thick (2.74-2.8mm).

 

Mike View Cropped 3.jpg

Figure 4 --  Wall is 0.015" or 0.3mm thinner than floor

 

                At first glance, I was doubtful the walls were even 2.7mm thick, but the weight told me otherwise.  On closer inspection, however, I found that both the inner and outer edges of the rims had been “broken”, or rounded over ever so slightly.  This was, I was to discover, just the first of several classy finishing touches BCC gives its pans.  Bottom line:  Where it matters, this pan is 3.2mm.

 

Edge View.jpg

Figure 5 -- Still thick.  Note gentle rounding of edges.

BCC Has it Handled

 

                One thing that sets BCC apart is its unique, robust cast iron handle designs.  Mac hired noted designer Barbara Stork to create something distinctive, yet completely functional.  What BCC and its customers got were works of elevated art.  These designs are so beautiful and detailed, in fact, that BCC chose to cast its mark in the handles rather than stamp it on the pan body (There is a designator mark “S3” stamped on).

 

                The tongue and helper handles on the sauté are unique to this pan (The rondeau, casserole and stockpot each have two different loop handles, and the universal cover also has a different tongue).   Classical French sauté handles typically rise almost vertically from the flange and, after a curved section, climb in a straight line at a relatively steep rake of up to 40 degrees; a classic French sauté can have its loop end perched nine inches above the hob.  This traditional design is good for leverage and carrying, but the vertical start makes cleaning the pinched space between handle and pan difficult.  And a high handle oftentimes means the sauté won’t easily fit in an oven; even if it will, it must usually sit alone on a bottom rack, hogging the whole space.  Potatoes go cold while the veal medallions finish…

 

                The BCC tongue handle solves both problems.  Its shaft leaves the flange at a much lower angle, and there is a nice ¼” space left built in between the handle’s shaft and the pan wall, both of which eliminate that gunk-trapping crevice on other pans.  Also, the BCC tongue itself is a compound curve, which allows it to sit lower overall. 

 

Side View Cropped.jpg

Figure 6 -- Note handle's compound curves.

 

     Depending on your oven, this may mean using your oven for more than one dish at a time, or being able to place your sauté on a middle rack.  This alone is a big improvement.

 

Oven View.jpg

Figure 7 -- Finally, the pommes can stay in the oven!

 

                The BCC tongue gives up more surprises when you grasp it.  For the first 2/3 of its length, it has a pronounced underside rib which makes the pan less “turny” when gripped over- and underhand. 

 

Handle Underside View.jpg

Figure 8

 

And the large hanging eye actually curves up over its final 1.5”.  It took me several uses to realize this, but with an overhand grip, the heel of your hand fits comfortably into the little dish formed in the oversized eye; this helps with leverage. 

 

Grasp View.jpgFigure 9 –Also a FigFigure 9 -- Also a pivot point

 

     Finally, the symbolic “mark” is on a raised rectangular cartouche, which doubles as a very nice thumb stop/rest when choking up on the handle. 

Cartouche View.jpg

Figure 10 --  Alchemy for your kitchen. Note ample cleaning space between wall and handle.

    

     Wiccans reading this may recognize BCC’s mark as a fragment of the alchemical symbol for… copper (I didn’t.  I had to ask.).

 

Copper Symbol.png

Figure 11 – Your mark of quality and gnosis.

 

                 I’ve never seen anything quite like the helper Stork designed for the BCC sauté.  I think it looks like a leaf.  I was skeptical at first about it, but after use, I think it’s very ergonomic.  It is technically a bent loop, with room to accept a very large finger, but it also functions as an “ear” that can be securely grasped with a side towel or mitt.  This is brilliant.

 

Helper View.jpg

Figure 12

 

                The tongue handle is secured by 3 large rivets in an inverted classic offset pattern (contrast with Mauviel and Falk’s two).

Flange View.jpg

Figure 13 --  Classic pans have the one center rivet above, two flankers below.

 

As you can see, even the handle flange got special attention.  Rather than start with the traditional, boring blob-shaped flange, BCC and Stork imparted a little flair with a gentle point and swoops.

 

The helper is held fast by two more husky rivets.

 

Helper Bottom View.jpg

 

  Figure 14 – No bean-counting engineering here.

 

All 5 rivets are decidedly stout, with a shaft diameter of 0.315” or just under 8mm.  While the rivet heads are smaller than those monsters found on the best vintage European pans (and the Duparquet homages), they are substantially larger than those tiny blips used by Falk, Mauviel, Bourgeat and other modern makers.

 

Interior Rivet View.jpg

Figure 15

 

                            Finally, the handle castings are perfectly textured where they should be for grip, but smooth where they could bite or scratch.

 

Tinning, Fit & Finish

 

                The lining arrived very bright, almost mirrored, a finish that I normally associate with electroplated tin. 

Wrapped.jpg

Figure 16

 

     But a glance in good light reveals the sworl marks that come with a hand-wiped lining (more on this in a second). 

 

Tinning View.jpg

Figure 17 –Machines can’t do this.  Ohioans can.

 

I have no means of measuring the tin thickness, but I’m told this falls between 0.35mm and 0.45mm.  Note that this is roughly twice as thick as the stainless linings in bimetal pans.  BCC’s linings should last decades with proper utensils and care.

 

The top surface of the rim was uniformly tinned, no mean feat considering the edges had been broken.  I learned that this rounding of the edges is not merely a matter of comfort.  It turns out that when sharp corners are tinned, the tin is prone to seize and come off when, e.g., a wooden spoon is rapped on the rim.  I’ve personally experienced tinned rims blistering when nowhere else did; this may be why.

  

            The exterior arrived polished brightly, but well short of a mirror finish.  In fact, the pattern imparted by the cutting rouge was still visible in good light.  Having said that, this is definitely not a brushed finish like Falk’s.

 

            The fitment of rivets and handles is tight, square and flawless.  I have never seen better.

 

            Finally, a wonkish word on hardening.  This subject would not normally fall under finish but it belongs here for this pan.  That is, traditionally, copper pans were worked to shape in stages, originally by hammering the soft metal.  Hammering (a/k/a planishing) hardens the copper.  This is good in a finished pan, but can be bad if there’s forming yet to be done, because hardened copper can crack when it’s worked.  Coppersmiths learned that their work could be resoftened by heating, annealing the metal so it could be further worked to a pan’s final shape without cracking.  Pound a little, anneal, pound some more, repeat.  After forming, the best pans got a final session of planishing, intended to work harden the copper.  Harder pans meant longer-lived, flatter pans, and so the planishing marks became recognizable signs of high quality. Uniform, interlocking patterns became the beautiful, prismatic “painting” on the “canvas” of the copper.

 

            BCC’s pans are obviously not planished, but they are work-hardened.  Because they are spun on a lathe and formed in one fell swoop by a craftsman using his hands and ears, they get their hardening all at once, while they’re being made.  BCC’s website explains this in deep detail; suffice it to say, stamped copper pans don’t get hardened this way, and the bimetal ones can’t be hardened by planishing—if it weren’t for the thin steel liner, they’d bend, warp and dent like crazy.  The BCC craftsmen listen for the sounds the copper makes as they work it, and the art is in fully forming the pan just as the metal rings like a bell.  The BCC pans needn’t be planished to be hardened.  Ergo, planishing would be purely a cosmetic, expensive finish.

 

                Astute readers of BCC’s website might wonder as I did:  If BCC applies linings after preheating its pans to 1200F, why aren’t they annealed back to soft and don’t they lose this work-hardening?  The answer turns out to be that only the surface of the metal is brought to that perceived temperature, and much cooler (500F) molten tin is quickly ladled in to moderate the heat.  Yet there’s enough stored heat left to keep all the tin flowing and get a good, thick, even wiped coating.  This is yet another example of the craft required to make these pans correctly.  

 

Comparisons

 

                BCC’s website describes their pans as: “… merely the best and most beautiful copper cookware in history.”   Now, I know Mac to be a temperate man, not prone to puffery, but is this objectively true?  Is such a claim of the reasonable-minds-can-differ flavor, or is it pride and hyperbole?

 

                The only way I can judge is to compare this pan with the finest vintage copperware I own or have handled.  I do not have another 24cm sauté, but my best extra fort sautés and rondeaux are three made by the famed house of Gaillard, one sauté a 22cm and the other a 28cm, and the rondeau a massive 36cm.

 

                I can objectively state that my Gaillards are thicker, close to 4mm bottoms.  I can also say the Gaillards are marginally thicker in the walls, “miking” at between 3.0 and 3.1mm average (compared with this pan’s nominal 2.8mm thickness).  Measuring these planished pans’ walls is uncertain to some degree, because the hammer blows push the copper about, making it thinner where the center of the hammer fell and thicker around the edges.  Gaillard was also famous for intentionally tapering its walls toward the top—its pans were sometimes well under 3mm at their rims and much more than 3mm in the bottoms.  But if greater thickness alone in a sauté equates with best ever, BCC may be fudging a little.  However, Gaillard has been out of business for a long time.  Other than a handful of tiny boutique ateliers, I don’t think anyone is making copper sauté pans any thicker than BCC’s.

 

                Interestingly, the 24cm BCC saute’s gentle shoulder radius means that the 8.25“/21cm floor is large enough for three of the enormous chicken breasts now dominating the consumer market.  In comparison, my 22cm Gaillard, with more acute corners and a slightly smaller floor of 7.875”/19.7cm, would only fit two without crowding.  In other words, the BCC pan cooks “bigger” than the 1cm floor size difference would indicate.

 

                I can also say that, poor cook that I am, and sautéing not happening on the walls, I can tell no performance difference between these pans.   So any debate about “best” in this lofty class of pan necessarily devolves into a near-theological debate.  To keep things real, if BCC’s pan is the thickest one you can buy new, and it ranks 99.7% (compared to 80% for best-in-class clad), and the only arguably “better” pan ranks 99.8%--and is unavailable—why isn’t BCC’s the best? 

 

                I have no problem whatsoever judging the BCC sauté as attaining the finest level of fit, finish and ergonomics I’ve ever seen.  Nothing else I’ve handled comes close. 

 

                On the aesthetic side, the Stork handles are beautiful in ways that a classical pan’s handles have never been.  In fairness, no one before lavished such design acumen and attention on functional handles for copper cookware.  Simply as a matter of industrial design, these handles are masterpieces; if Alessi copied these handles in stainless steel for some Danish designer’s clad pans, they’d instantly be on display in MOMA.

 

                I confess I prefer the look of planished pans, and I still consider planishing a mark of quality.  But I accede that it’s not a necessary condition for attaining work-hardening.  There are also some touches on some vintage pans, e.g., stepped chamfering on the bottom/wall radius (barely visible in Figure 3), that I find particularly beautiful.

 

                Finally, the form of BCC’s pans is distinctly American even in ways that transcend those glorious, muscular Stork handles.  I find intrinsic beauty in this, even if I can’t fully articulate all the style elements.   

 

The Beauty Marks

 

                This is the hardest part of this review to write.  Far be it for me, a spectator and dilettante, to deign to tell BCC what it could do better.  There are probably 100 reasons I’m wrong to quibble over minutia, and it’s all just my opinion, but here I go, telling Rembrandt how to paint…

 

                I find the overall length of 22 inches too long to fit on a crowded cooktop.  I wish that—for a 24cm sauté—the tongue was shorter, and I may have omitted the helper on this size pan.  For comparison, my 22cm Gaillard’s handle adds <7 inches to the pan’s overall length; if it were fitted to the BCC sauté, the OAL would be more like 16 inches overall.

                I wish BCC had found a way to employ inner rivet heads that sit flush with the pan wall.  I put this in the “nice touch” category rather than a problem.

 

                The leverage could be better.  Perhaps this is because I’m accustomed to high-rake, traditional handles, but the 6.8-pound, 24cm BCC pan feels more than 1 pound heavier than the 5.8-pound Gaillard 22cm.

 

                For my large hands, I wish the waist of the tongue handle had been kept a bit fatter—it still feels slightly “turny” like some Mauviel pieces.

 

Handle Rib View.jpg

Figure 18 -- Handle waist viewed from beneath

 

                As long as I’m fantasizing, offering a silver-lined option would be nice.  Make it thick Sheffield plate while you’re at it, Rembrandt.

 

Final Words

 

                Upper 99th percentile in performance.  Flawless fit and finish.  Iconic styling.  Versatile size.  Designed and made in America by really good people.  Immortal.  Stunningly beautiful.  The best pan of any kind available at retail.  A value at $400.  

 

This pan will either make you cook better, or care about cooking more—in which case, you’re also likely to cook better.  If consumers have any sense at all, BCC v2.0 will be a smashing success.

 

To Learn More:

Brooklyn Copper Cookware, Ltd.

687 Jay Street

Brooklyn, NY  11201

(347) 866-2600

www.brooklyncoppercookware.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by boilsover
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Posted
On 1/17/2016 at 7:27 AM, rotuts said:

you can get 3 mm , perhaps 3.5 mm SS lined pots if thats important to you

 

Hi:

 

  I'd like to know where.  In all my obsessive scrounging, I've seen fewer than 10, 3mm bimetal pans--all vintage and predating Falk's patent.  Never a 3.5mm.  If you know where they can be had new, I'm all ears.

 

Thanks. 

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