Week in Saigon foodblog

[KennethT]

So that's it.... it was a week that went by way too quickly.  Saigon is a beautiful city, in it's own crazy way.  In some ways it can be quite relaxing, as there are many shady, tree lined streets that can be quite pretty... but sometimes your peaceful dream is broken when someone on a motorbike decides to drive on the sidewalk and just narrowly miss clipping you.  So, rules to keep in mind: look both ways before crossing the street, even if it's a one way street - motorbikes commonly drive the wrong way; sidewalks are not just for walking - it's also open season for driving if there's too much traffic on the road, for taking a nap, parking your motorbike, or running a small restaurant or store.

[Shelby]

You need to go for like a month next time so that we can have more blog  

[KennethT]

If you enjoyed reading this, I would heartily recommend reading the Graham Holliday book Eating Viet Nam, which I named at the beginning... not only are his descriptions of food and life in Vietnam vivid and detailed, he also has a really good sense of humor that kept cracking me up as I read....

[IowaDee]

Reports like your are why I love this place.  Being an arm chair traveler and eating amazing food with my eyes..life is indeed good.

Thank you for making my latest trip possible.

[kbjesq]

6 hours ago, KennethT said:

The next day, for lunch, we went to this place, Banh Xeo 46A:

 

Tony Bourdain made this place a must stop on the Saigon foodie-trail - but, to be fair, at that point, they were already famous among locals as they'd been in business for about 50 years.  As their name implies, they are known for their banh xeo, a fried crepe filled with pork, shrimp and some bean sprouts.  But they actually have a pretty big menu (in Vietnamese, English and Japanese).

 

We started off with some goi cuon:

These were really good as they had not only shrimp, but were also stuff with slices of boiled pork.

 

But the reason to go is because of this:

The crepe is served with large mustard greens and lettuce leaves (for wrapping), plus a variety of herbs such as saw tooth, thai basil, some type of mint, purple perilla (kind of like shiso) and rau ram.  You take a large leaf, add a piece of the crepe with filling, a bunch of herbs, then dip in the nuoc cham sauce...  Really really tasty - partially because it's an herb bomb, but you also get the great texture of the crepe which is crispy on the outside, and soft and tender inside, with nicely cooked shrimp and pork.

 

Here's an action shot with me attempting to stuff this whole thing in my mouth:

 

And, finally, a shot of the banh xeo making process:

 

I just noticed the box of Ajino-Moto at the bottom of the photo... I guess MSG is an ingredient in there somewhere too!

Ahhhhhh! I've been waiting and waiting for bahn xeo. Yay! I don't much give a care what Tony B says in general, but that bahn xeo looks absolutely delicious.  ETA: The free app,  Duolingo, is amazing (I'm currently studying Spanish along with 56 million other users) and the Vietnamese language is scheduled to be added in March, 2016. I highly recommend the app/website as well as the offline available map app, "maps.me" - saves a bunch on data charges depending on where you are visiting. Hopefully I'll be able to learn a tiny bit of Vietnamese before my trip to Vietnam later this year. 

Edited January 4, 2016 by kbjesq
clarification (log)

[KennethT]

I haven't seen that app - I have to check it out.  I learned a little Vietnamese using Pimsleur's course, which was very good.  It's typically expensive to buy, but I was able to borrow it from the NYC public library for free... it comes on CDs... the Vietnamese course had 30 lessons, each 30 minutes long, which is convenient since my commute to work is usually about 30 minutes or so, so I could study a new topic in evening, sleep on it, and then review it again in the morning.  I did this a couple years ago with Thai before going to BKK for a week. It was fun!

 

I don't have an issue with data charges... I have T-Mobile in the USA, which provides free unlimited data access in like 120 countries (Thailand and Singapore yes, but Vietnam no)... so since my data wouldn't work there, I got a SIM card at the airport with something like 3 GB of high speed data plus 60 minutes of worldwide calling for around $8.

[kbjesq]

3 minutes ago, KennethT said:

I haven't seen that app - I have to check it out.  I learned a little Vietnamese using Pimsleur's course, which was very good.  It's typically expensive to buy, but I was able to borrow it from the NYC public library for free... it comes on CDs... the Vietnamese course had 30 lessons, each 30 minutes long, which is convenient since my commute to work is usually about 30 minutes or so, so I could study a new topic in evening, sleep on it, and then review it again in the morning.  I did this a couple years ago with Thai before going to BKK for a week. It was fun!

 

I don't have an issue with data charges... I have T-Mobile in the USA, which provides free unlimited data access in like 120 countries (Thailand and Singapore yes, but Vietnam no)... so since my data wouldn't work there, I got a SIM card at the airport with something like 3 GB of high speed data plus 60 minutes of worldwide calling for around $8.

Pimsleur is good - I agree. I needed to learn basic Haitian creole a few years ago and still have the CDs and accompanying workbook although I wish I had thought of borrowing it from my library! 

[kbjesq]

3 minutes ago, KennethT said:

I haven't seen that app - I have to check it out.  I learned a little Vietnamese using Pimsleur's course, which was very good.  It's typically expensive to buy, but I was able to borrow it from the NYC public library for free... it comes on CDs... the Vietnamese course had 30 lessons, each 30 minutes long, which is convenient since my commute to work is usually about 30 minutes or so, so I could study a new topic in evening, sleep on it, and then review it again in the morning.  I did this a couple years ago with Thai before going to BKK for a week. It was fun!

 

I don't have an issue with data charges... I have T-Mobile in the USA, which provides free unlimited data access in like 120 countries (Thailand and Singapore yes, but Vietnam no)... so since my data wouldn't work there, I got a SIM card at the airport with something like 3 GB of high speed data plus 60 minutes of worldwide calling for around $8.

Pimsleur is good - I agree. I needed to learn basic Haitian creole a few years ago and still have the CDs and accompanying workbook although I wish I had thought of borrowing it from my library! 

[kbjesq]

4 hours ago, KennethT said:

If you enjoyed reading this, I would heartily recommend reading the Graham Holliday book Eating Viet Nam, which I named at the beginning... not only are his descriptions of food and life in Vietnam vivid and detailed, he also has a really good sense of humor that kept cracking me up as I read....

Already ordered and on its way -  thanks for the heads up.  The more I read about this region the longer my planned trip becomes. Currently I'm planning on one month in Vietnam, Hanoi to Hue to Saigon to Mekong River Delta (if time permits all of this!), then one week in Bangkok and one week in Chiang Mai.  May stop for a couple of days going and coming in Seoul and/or Taipei depending on how the flights work out.  Oh, wait, I also need to add time for Singapore. Geez. . .  Maybe I need 2 months to finish stuffing my face with the world's most delicious cuisines 

Edited January 4, 2016 by kbjesq
Fix typo (log)

[huiray]

31 minutes ago, kbjesq said:

Already ordered and on its way -  thanks for the heads up.  The more I read about this region the longer my planned trip becomes. Currently I'm planning on one month in Vietnam, Hanoi to Hue to Saigon to Mekong River Delta (if time permits all of this!), then one week in Bangkok and one week in Chiang Mai.  May stop for a couple of days going and coming in Seoul and/or Taipei depending on how the flights work out.  Oh, wait, I also need to add time for Singapore. Geez. . .  Maybe I need 2 months to finish stuffing my face with the world's most delicious cuisines 

 

You might be seriously shortening yourself if you are skipping Malaysia, if this trip is to be the "one and only". I might murmur that you look up what is found in Malaysian cuisine --- Malaysian-Chinese, Malaysian-Indian, Mamak, Malay, Northern Nyonya, Southern Nyonya, Malaysian-Hainanese, Colonial British-Malaysian Edition, Portuguese-Malaysian Edition, More specialized Malaysian-Malay (Kelantanese, e.g.), etc etc etc.  Penang alone is thought by some to be amongst the premier "street food" places in SE Asia (NOT Bangkok) and the closest comparisons have been Taipei as an example. 

[kbjesq]

@huiray my trip is getting longer and longer. Penang had been a place that I've dreamt of eating. I admit, partly due to Tony B., back when I found his shows to be tolerable and informative.  I may have to add it to my list.

I keep saying that this will be my "one and only" trip to SE Asia but who knows?  My mother was still traveling to rather adventurous places around the world, often solo, well into her late 80s so I still may have some more time

Edited January 4, 2016 by kbjesq
Fix typo (log)

[sartoric]

34 minutes ago, huiray said:

 

You might be seriously shortening yourself if you are skipping Malaysia, if this trip is to be the "one and only". I might murmur that you look up what is found in Malaysian cuisine --- Malaysian-Chinese, Malaysian-Indian, Mamak, Malay, Northern Nyonya, Southern Nyonya, Malaysian-Hainanese, Colonial British-Malaysian Edition, Portuguese-Malaysian Edition, More specialized Malaysian-Malay (Kelantanese, e.g.), etc etc etc.  Penang alone is thought by some to be amongst the premier "street food" places in SE Asia (NOT Bangkok) and the closest comparisons have been Taipei as an example. 

I'm excited now. I've been planning a trip for May which sees us in Georgetown, Penang for maybe 4 nights. I lurve street food. Tell me more huiray, apologies for hijacking !

[heidih]

23 minutes ago, sartoric said:

I'm excited now. I've been planning a trip for May which sees us in Georgetown, Penang for maybe 4 nights. I lurve street food. Tell me more huiray, apologies for hijacking !

 

 

Be sure to familiarize yourself with EatingAsia  http://eatingasia.typepad.com/

[KennethT]

Yes, Malaysia is definitely high up on our list of places to visit.  One of the reasons I loved Singapore so much is that it gave a window into the food of Malaysia.  Now I know that most people will argue that Malaysian food in Singapore is not nearly as good as it is in Penang or Ipoh, and I would not doubt it... what Singapore does have going for it is sheer variety.  In one small area, you can have relatively excellent* examples of many different cuisines all on the same day if you have the stomach space.  Plus, you do it in what I consider to be a very beautiful, relaxing and comforting environment.

 

*Relatively excellent is a frame of reference.  Is it excellent compared to food at the source (in Malaysia)?  Probably not.  Compared to anything else I can get remotely near me, absolutely - especially since I can't really get anything like that locally...

[huiray]

@KennethT, thanks for the Saigon food and travel adventures. Nice reading.

 

 

sartoric & kbjesq (and KennethT), have a look at the relevant section of another food forum - although basically inactive now, it is stuffed full of posts and recommendations from well-regarded posters and food-obsessed people who had posted copiously there over the years on food in Malaysia including Penang and Ipoh. Here is also one blogger whom one former poster (IMO the most prominent) in that section on CH trusted as a blogger-guide.

BTW Tony B's episode on Penang included a sweeping generalization on "laksa" - basically it seemed like there was no other sort than what he was eating then. He talks a lot, but sometimes... here's one thread that may be informative for folks who wish to read more about laksa in M'sia & S'pore.

 

ETA: The one dish that I really miss is properly/professionally prepared KL Hokkien Mee. Sigh.  And, BTW, "Hokkien Mee" means very different things in Penang, KL and Singapore. You will need to be very clear in your mind about what you are asking for, what you are expecting, the differences between them, and WHERE you are when you ask for it. :-) 

Edited January 4, 2016 by huiray (log)

[Smithy]

@KennethT, I am *very* late to the party but have thoroughly enjoyed catching up on your excellent blog.  Thank you for taking us along! 

 

I have a couple of questions about the Ben Thanh Market you posted about here.  You said that every tourist goes there, but it looks as though there may be a lot of locals there also.  Is it more of a tourist market than a 'locals' market, or is it both?  If it's also where the locals hang out, do they get the same hawkers' hustle that you got, or do the tourists get extra, ah, attention ?

[KennethT]

@SmithyThat's a hard question to answer.  Supposedly locals do go to that market also.. Graham Holliday, in his book, claimed that locals went there (but that was written a while ago and written from memories from before then), and that there was actually a very good seller of banh cuon who had been there a long time that many locals visited, but I didn't get that feeling... Maybe they were tourists from other parts of Vietnam?  But it seemed that most people there had cameras and were just browsing, which I don't think would be typical of locals.  Or maybe locals go at different times of day when there would be less tourists?  They do have a raw meat area, which I'd imagine only locals would buy anything (how would tourists cook?) so maybe some locals do go there...  Also remember that Vietnam gets lots of tourists from other parts of Asia, especially mainland China - so it makes it hard to tell who's local and who's a tourist just by looking at their face.  Plus, I'd imagine that if locals did get the aggressive treatment, they'd do that hand wave gesture with the facial expression that everyone in that region seemed to understand so that the seller would get out of their face.  The interesting thing I always find when traveling in heavily touristed parts of Asia (other than Singapore) is that if you're caucasian, there is a very good chance that you're a tourist... it's not like traveling to Europe where they may not be able to tell unless you open your mouth to speak...  granted, there are some expats living there, but statistically, white person=tourist.  Singapore was different - when we would meet local people at a hawker area or something, most of the time, they assumed we were expats living there, A) because there is such a large amount of them and B) most tourists don't go to the hawker areas we frequented (which is a shame)

 

We went to a different market, called Saigon Square, which didn't sell any food products, but was mostly clothing (of all kinds), electronics, dvds, etc... that market seemed to be 95% locals as people were there haggling back and forth in Vietnamese, and looked like they were shopping for every day items... underwear, socks, jeans, sneakers, etc...  The sellers here were not aggressive at all - they sat in their booth and watched you - if you took an interest in something they would stand near you and wait for you to ask how much it cost.

[Jaymes]

My dad lived in Saigon for a time during the mid '50s (the last days of 'Indochine' when the French were still there) and I was lucky enough to get to take a trip back there with him.  In fact, I got to return with him to many of the places he has been over the 95 years he's been alive.  Our trip was a four-month 'Around the World' cruise and it included several destinations in Asia.  We sailed from the South China Sea up the Mekong River to Saigon.  When my father lived in Saigon (he actually lived in Cholon, the Chinese section), he spent a lot of time at the Rex Hotel and very much wanted me to see it.  So we went for lunch.  Out in front of the Rex were two young girls selling flowers.  They were so sweet and cute, wearing their school uniforms and smiling, and my dad was quite taken with them.  In the dining room there was a large window overlooking the street and he sat there for a few minutes watching the girls.  Then he sent me out to ask if they'd like to come inside and join us, which they did, laughing and giggling (although one of them was barefoot and had to run home to get some shoes).  My dad told our waiter to bring the girls whatever they wanted, which he did.  It was all served family-style, so we got to sample everything they ordered.  There was far too much food for us to finish so, after we had a "pleasant sufficiency" - which was what we had to say (as opposed to "I'm full") when, as children, we were asking to be excused from the table - everything was boxed up for the girls to take home to their families.  

 

I really wish I had written down everything we ordered, and taken pictures of the food but, what with all the excitement, didn't think to do it.

 

I just can't help myself.  Got to post the photo of my papa and our luncheon guests at the Rex Hotel.

Edited January 7, 2016 by Jaymes (log)

[IowaDee]

What a lovely memory and the girls are just beautiful.  I'll bet they never will forget the day either!   You are a lucky son to have a papa like that.

[Shelby]

Jaymes, I love that    How awesome to be able to travel with him.  

[KennethT]

@Jaymes, I didn't think of posting these pictures, but this is for you!

They're in the process of building a public transportation system - one of the terminals will be right next to the hotel...   and we had a drink at the bar on the roof....It had a great view of the city below...

Edited January 7, 2016 by KennethT
tag (log)

[Thanks for the Crepes]

On 1/2/2016 at 1:52 PM, KennethT said:

 

By the time we finished our sandwich, I was still had a little room left and had wanted to try a more non-traditional banh mi, whose location was nearby.  Unfortunately, at this point, my wife was pretty full, but managed to squeek in a bite to try it..  we went here:

 

This is Banh mi thit nuong - which is a banh mi made with grilled pork meatballs...  this thing was a complete flavor explosion!  The woman would take a banh mi roll, warm it on the grill, then cut a slit down the middle with scissors.  She would insert 4 pork meatball patties, cucumber, herbs and some kind of awesome chili sauce...  It's hard to see, but this is a peek inside:

 

 

I loved this sandwich.  Don't get me wrong, the traditional banh mi is really good, but this thing is just over the top.  I can't believe I finished it... I was already pretty full from the first one, but I just couldn't stop eating this one - and I usually have pretty good self control!!!

 

@KennethT, I read this excellent account when you were posting it, and again tonight, and realized I had forgotten to thank you for spending the time and effort to take us all vicariously to Saigon. I'm just glad the topic wasn't locked and I still have a chance to do so.

 

I must say that last photo of the non-traditional bahn mi looks divine! That shattering crisp crust! Oh lordy, if I could only cook bread half as good.

[KennethT]

I still dream about that last banh mi... the flavors were explosive - everything so fresh.. and the bread there was incredible.  There have been a lot of people trying to figure out how the bread is done - some people add some rice flour to the dough, but I don't think that is traditional.. according to Graham Holliday in his book, the dough uses just plain commercial flour (no rice flour), which has some kind of additive (called 'dough conditioner') already added.  I think he discussed the additive a bit, but I forget the details.

Edited April 19, 2016 by KennethT (log)