Cheese (2008– )

[FrogPrincesse]

In the current selection, this Landaff from Jasper Hills, a semi-hard raw milk cheese. Very flavorful. Unfortunately started developing mold after only a few days, I think the result of improper storage at the cheese shop (too much moisture). Radishes croque au sel on the side.



Also this aged goat cheese with ash from Vermont (forgot to write down the name) that looked like a small Selles-sur-Cher but turned out to be super-soft like a Saint Marcellin. Not bad.

[Dave Hatfield]

Sunday lunch for only 6 of us, but a few cheeses anyway.

Here's the table setting. Linda always does such a nice job.

Here's the cheese board.

Individually the cheeses are:

Our old friend Cantal. Cows milk.

This is called a 'Brique Affinee' Its made from both milk & cream. Sort of a manufactured cheese that I thought I'd try.

Fourme d'Ambert. Pasteurized milk. Uses the Roquefort bacterium., but because its cows milk is much milder that Roquefort.

A goat's cheese, Mothais sur feuille. Raw milk. Its from the Poitue region South of Brittany & North of the Charante.

Maroilles. Cows milk from the far North of France. Picardy is its region. Ita very old type of cheese having been made for at least 1000 years.

Finally, Chaurce. A milk cows milk favorite and ones of Linda's favorites.

So as not to tease certain people I didn't take pictures of the three types of bread I bought this morning. Neither did I take pictures of the Pear Tatin I made yesterday evening.

I think this is going to be a nice Sunday lunch.

[Ericpo]

Brie and Camembert are made in exactly the same way. The difference in France is that they come from different milks. In places other than France they often simulate a Brie by adding some cream to the milk before making. The double and triple bries simply have more cream added. Any of these cheeses should be matured such that the centre is soft (this is done by letting the mould on the rind extend its filaments to the centre of the cheese, it is also why the cheeses are of a uniform thickness in large or small wheels. There is a limit to the distance that the mould can extend its filaments. Too thick and you get a chalky interior. If these cheeses get too old, they develop an unpleasant ammonia smell in the rind.

Different breeds of cow and different areas. Normandy (Camembert) is further West, has more rain & thus richer pastures. Isle de France (Brie) is around Paris & thus somewhat drier. Also, the fact that Brie is made in large rounds whereas Camembert is made in small ones changes their flavour since in Camembert the mould can reach all the way to the centre of the round.

To be at their best both cheeses must be made from unpasteurised milk. This makes it difficult at times to get the real thing in the states.

With Brie you want to get a Brie de Meaux or a Brie de Melun if at all possible. With Camembert you need to try and find a Camembert de Normandy. In both cases these designations require that the cheese be made with unpasteurised milk.These are without question the two best varieties.

The 'industrial' varieties are hardly worth bothering with.

I greatly envy you sir. I do take some issue with your last sentence however, "the 'industrial' varieties are hardly worth bothering with. I am a cheese novice, as I will freely admit. I live in a rural town in western North Dakota, U.S. I appreciate good food, and cheese is of course one of the great culinary inventions...ever.

Where I live, I cannot reasonably expect to find fine cheeses, beyond that which the local grocery stores choose to stock. This has inhibited my knowledge and experience of cheese, but it has by no means killed it. One of my favorite meals is a nice room temperature Brie(President brand and industrial as anything), and a nice loaf of whole grain bread. Perhaps some olives and seasonal fruits as accompaniment.

I wish I lived somewhere that my cheese oddysey would be easier...but I don't. So my question now is this: What is a good classic "Cheese Plate"? I usually just get whatever sounds good at the time, but I'm sure that there is much more science and forethought to this. The more information you all feel inclined to share with me the better, as I will likely have to make substitutions along the way. One last note, this is intended for a party where the cheese course will be the only course. Suggestions on wine/olive and fruit parings would also be appreciated. Also good savory meats although I despair of finding anything palatable.

Now if you will excuse me, I have half a small wheel of brie that should be room temp by now...numnumnumnum....

[nickrey]

I frequented a very good Cheesemonger in recent times and often watched him suggesting cheese plates. In doing so he explored the person's preferences as well as those of the guests before making suggestions. So the real answer to the question is, it depends.

Typically a cheese platter at a party is not a medium through which to educate people so I'd go better than normal cheeses but safe. At a minimum I'd serve some hard cheese (try to find Vermont or English cheddar if you can), some soft cheese (Brie, Camembert - if you can get exotic cheeses, try to find Brie de Meaux and La Conquerant Camembert) for a hard cooked Cheese try Comte Gruyere, and if people are adventurous put out a soft blue such as Blue Castello. I'd also put out a local cheese that people are used to and may use regularly so those who are conservative have something to nibble on.

Accompany it with sourdough and normal baguettes and, if you are using blue, possibly some oatmeal biscuits or fruit loaf. You could also use crackers and wafers If it is the only food at your drinks party, don't go light on the amount of bread that you put out.

To go with it serve cut up fresh apple, grapes, figs, nuts (eg walnuts), dried raisins or muscatels, dried fruit (eg. apples), some fruit paste such as quince.

Let us now what cheeses you pick and can get and we can suggest drinks to go with them.

[Dave Hatfield]

Ericpo

All is not lost! Go on line, young man. go on line.

There are lots of cheese suppliers who sell over the internet. Just do a Google search.

Give it a try. You may have to shop around a bit to find out who is good.

[liuzhou]

Sort of a manufactured cheese that I thought I'd try.

What do you mean? All cheeses are "manufactured".

[Ericpo]

Ericpo

All is not lost! Go on line, young man. go on line.

There are lots of cheese suppliers who sell over the internet. Just do a Google search.

Give it a try. You may have to shop around a bit to find out who is good.

lol. Thank you much sir.

I will check around online...just seems rather odd to order cheese of all things online!

Also, by the end of the summer, I plan on moving to the Seattle area...I'm pretty ecxited about the new culinary opportunities. Was thinking more about fresh readily available seafood but cheese also super exciting!

[JoNorvelleWalker]

I will check around online...just seems rather odd to order cheese of all things online!

Circa 1970 I would purchase my cheese by mail.

[Dave Hatfield]

Ericpo

I wouldn't think you'd have a problem in Seattle.

I haven't lived in Seattle so can't give any advice, but I'm sure there are EGulleteers who do and can point you in the right direction.

I do know that Tilamook which is not a million miles from Seattle on the Oregon coast is home to some of the best cheddar type cheese in the states

[FrogPrincesse]

Grana Padano and Estero Gold (a raw milk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery) with a caramelized onion batard from Sadie Rose.

[FrogPrincesse]

A quick snapshot of the Cowgirl Creamery shop in the Ferry Building in San Francisco...

On market day (Saturday), they were handing out little samples of St Pat which is a cheese wrapped in nettle leaves.

[Dave Hatfield]

A quick snapshot of the Cowgirl Creamery shop in the Ferry Building in San Francisco...

On market day (Saturday), they were handing out little samples of St Pat which is a cheese wrapped in nettle leaves.

Now that's what I call a cheese shop. It could hold its head up high in France.

Lots of hard cheeses. I'd like to see their soft cheese section.

Any hope?

[FrogPrincesse]

Dave - I am not there anymore and now realize that I was in such awe at the Ferry Building (Cowgirl but also Boccalone charcuterie, Blue Bottle coffee, Hog Island Oysters, etc, etc) that I failed to properly document everything. But I really enjoyed my time there, so much so that I went 3 days in a row.

[rotuts]

Yum

soft cheese section.

triple creme. fermented.

Yum

[djyee100]

Dave Hatfield, if you google "pictures of cowgirl creamery sf" a bunch of pix will come up of the store from different angles, including this one (hope the link works):
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/88/SF_Ferry_Building_Cowgirl_Creamery_01.jpg&imgrefurl=http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:SF_Ferry_Building_Cowgirl_Creamery_01.jpg&h=2848&w=4288&sz=5501&tbnid=xXiaQJ4F3ywfEM:&tbnh=86&tbnw=129&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dpictures%2Bof%2Bcowgirl%2Bcreamery%2Bsf%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=pictures+of+cowgirl+creamery+sf&usg=__bKx6TKsNKV4IgXlhy-x8QkLH5PA=&docid=nQj5dT_lp_z9ZM&sa=X&ei=1mrDUZesEYiriQLZ9oHwBw&ved=0CCwQ9QEwAA&dur=428#imgdii=xXiaQJ4F3ywfEM%3A%3BbG5Wn_lRrX9v3M%3BxXiaQJ4F3ywfEM%3A

The far refrigerator case against the wall contains fresh items like fromage blanc, ricotta, cottage cheese.

FrogPrincesse, if I had known you were doing cheese in SF, I could have also made these suggestions--though it sounds like you were busy enough as it was! Maybe for your next visit to SF, for you and others...

Besides Cowgirl Creamery in the SF Ferry Building, I recommend checking out Mission Cheese on Valencia St. It's a cheese bar: real good grilled cheese sandwich, other classic cheese dishes, flights of artisanal cheeses that you can pair with wines or beers. As a cheese-lover, I have to admit a fondness for a place where cheese is the star, not just a side dish. The Valencia St neighborhood is one of the most vibrant food scenes in SF right now, and accessible by BART 16th St Mission and 24th St Mission Stations. More about Mission Cheese: http://missioncheese.net/

Next door to Mission Cheese is Dandelion Chocolate. If you're at Mission Cheese, for heaven's sake, check out this place. Besides excellent chocolate goodies, they're doing something special with their single-source chocolate bars. Amazing how different those chocolates taste. You'll be hearing more about this place in the media, I believe. http://www.dandelionchocolate.com/about-us/

The academically inclined can do a class at the Cheese School of San Francisco. I ran across this place one night when I was food-surfing aimlessly on the web. I couldn't believe that a school for cheese existed (are you kidding me?), so of course I enrolled for a couple classes to check it out. My fave is a cheese and honey class that's given regularly. Robert MacKimmie, the beekeeper, has hives set up all over San Francisco. You can taste the terroir of honey from the different SF neighborhoods, like the eucalyptus in the honey from a hive near Stern Grove. Very fun tasting class. http://www.cheeseschoolsf.com/

[FrogPrincesse]

djyee100 - I am only a short flight away from SF so am sure that I will be back soon. I am taking notes of all your great recommendations for my next visit. Many thanks!

I had a chance to try the products from a second cheesemaker during my trip; more on that soon...

[Dave Hatfield]

djyee 100 - You are making me homesick. Thanks for the information. I grew up in the Bay area and love the city. I'm delighted to see so much cheese activity.

I'm old enough to remember when the Ferry building really was used as a ferry building. My parents would put me in the hands of the Southern Pacific porters for the trip across the bay to catch the train to my grandmother's house in Eugene. Oregon.

I like the idea of the cheese school although I'm not sure that learning the hard way (by testing) isn't just as much fun.

Frog Princess - More trips please with lots of pics.

If I didn't already live in cheese heaven I'd be tempted to move back to S.F.

[rotuts]

I'm old enough to remember when the Ferry building really was used as a ferry building

me too. we used to take the ferry over to Oakland for a day trip. as a kid nothing was better. well, maybe the Zoo ...

Im also pleased some very good cheese comes from CA. living in NE now, some fantastic stuff comes from VT including their version of both brie and camembert

http://www.vtcheese.com/members/blythedale/blythedale.htm

as good as the best from FR IF you know how to age it at home! after all most of the FR is not what it used to be !

[Dave Hatfield]

I have a question.

As I read these posts by djyee, Frog Princes & rotuts I am impressed by the variety of cheeses made across the USA. It looks as if there is both a lot of variety as well as quality.

Given that, why is it that every time we visit the states the supermarkets don't seem to have any cheese worth buying? CostCo seems to have a bit of decent cheese, but nowhere else.

Why? Or am I missing something?

[FrogPrincesse]

Dave - I think it greatly depends on the stores you go to for your cheese shopping. In San Diego for example, we now have several cheese shops so that would be my first choice. The farmers markets typically have a couple of vendors that specialize in cheese. Otherwise Whole Foods and Bristol Farms have respectable cheese selections (and they offer samples if you ask). But if you look at the cheese offerings at the large supermarkets (Ralphs, Vons, etc), that's a different story...

[sigma]

As another native who remembers the Ferry Building in its earlier incarnation, I would have to say that the Cheese "scene" in San Francisco is almost definitive of how the food "scene" in the city has become like dinner at Trimalchio's.

[rotuts]

depends both on the store and the wealth of the neighborhood.

wellesley Roche brothers has a huge selection , but trader joes beats them on price by about 33 % on the brands TJ's caries.

the mark-up for that large selection is huge.

Edited June 21, 2013 by rotuts (log)

[sigma]

A quick snapshot of the Cowgirl Creamery shop in the Ferry Building in San Francisco...

On market day (Saturday), they were handing out little samples of St Pat which is a cheese wrapped in nettle leaves.

Now that's what I call a cheese shop. It could hold its head up high in France.

Lots of hard cheeses. I'd like to see their soft cheese section.

Any hope?

With all due respect, as somebody who lives both in SF and quite near to you in France, Cowgirl can't stand up to a traveling cheese cart at the Le Bugue market, much less a real fromagerie. Oh but the attitude. Why exactly am I treated respectfully and well at Quatrehomme, like somebody with knowledge and a reasonable palate while I have to deal with the fart smelling preening that goes on at Cowgirl?

The only place worse at the Ferry Building is the awful Boccalone, which combines extremely mediocre charcuterie with vile presentations like the meat cone and preening help dressed as grease monkeys waiting for bloggers to take another picture.

[FrogPrincesse]

sigma,

I did not have this experience at Cowgirl Creamery or Boccalone.

Do you have a favorite cheese shop in SF?

[Dave Hatfield]

Sigma

If you look at all of the pictures you will see that the selection is very extensive. Certainly as good, if not better than any stand at Montauban market or the covered market in Cahors.

In my experience the cheese vendors at French market tend to have a smaller selection of cheeses, but with some specialisation and excellent quality. An issue is the almost total lack of foreign cheeses.

I'm not complaining as I love my French cheeses as can be told by my numerous posts on this thread.

Not having been there I can't comment on the attitude/ quality of their staff nor can I comment on the other stands.

The largest 'fromageries' in our area of France tend to be those in the HyperMarkets. Good selection, but almost all French Can you give me the name of a good shop in say Cahors?.