Francisco Migoya's Frozen Desserts

Tri2Cook · February 12, 2009

I've been reading and absorbing this book for a while now. It's an excellent resource for understanding the science behind frozen desserts but it also contains some really nice recipes so I've decided to do some of them. I'm not doing the entire book, I doubt I'll ever do that with any book, but I plan to add more from time to time and I hope others will join in as well. So to start off, tonight I did...

jalapeno sorbet - yellowfin sashimi - ponzu - toasted jalapeno seeds

lime granite - mint gelee - lime zest powder - fresh mint

Apologies for the bad picture quality. My new camera is actually a pretty decent camera but I'm not having an easy time getting the same quality pics with it that I did with my old camera for some reason.

Edited February 12, 2009 by Tri2Cook (log)

gap · February 12, 2009

Keep em coming! It's a great book and has taught me a great deal about how/why things work the way they do. I'm making a lot of ice-creams at the moment (given the exceptionally hot weather we're having in the south-eastern parts of Australia), so I'll try and get a few of these recipes out as well

gfron1 · February 12, 2009

yeah - get that camera mojo worked out - these flavor combos sound great.

judec · February 12, 2009

His method for making macarons also works great for me. It calls for baking at 400F, much higher than your typical macaron recipe.

Tri2Cook · February 13, 2009

Did another one today...

port ice cream - chocolate and brown butter pave - port glaze

This one was tasty but a bit rich. In the book he plates three of these per portion. Each piece, if made to his specs, is a comfy two bites (one if you're an experienced sushi-eater :raz: ). Three of them would be overload for me, one was nice.

gap · February 13, 2009

How was the flavour of the ice cream - did the port come through well?

Tri2Cook · February 13, 2009

Yeah, it comes through nicely. It's added to the base after cooking and chilling so it doesn't get messed with too much.

tan319 · February 13, 2009

How long has this book been out?

He think he cooked at Veritas in NY before he went to TFL and I enjoyed his desserts.

Thanks

Ted

Sethro · February 13, 2009

This is a great book. My favorite of the year easy including alinea.

Tri2Cook · February 14, 2009

olive oil sorbet - tomato gelee - red onion marmalade - black olive powder - feta - cracked black pepper - olive oil

The olive oil sorbet is a great team player. On it's own, I wouldn't eat much of it but with the other components it was perfect. I think it would be nice with a dark chocolate component and some sea salt too. I'll give that a try. In the book, the feta is actually goat cheese. I didn't have any on hand when I put this together so I used feta instead.

Tri2Cook · February 15, 2009

rice milk sherbet - arroz con leche - cinnamon anglaise

This is not the plating from the book. For this one, once again he plated three pieces per portion. The difference between this one and the port ice cream dessert is that three pieces of this one is not too much. It's light, the flavors are really clean... I could have filled the plate and eaten it all. That's something for me. I don't eat a lot of dessert, I just like to make them.

Tri2Cook · February 16, 2009

Next up...

popcorn sherbet - caramel popcorn - salted caramel sauce

roasted mcintosh apple sherbet - candied pecans - caramel sauce

gfron1 · February 16, 2009

Wow - I don't know how this book passed my radar - probably the word "frozen" which is normally not my thing. I'll be watching to find a bit more motivation since I have so many new books right now.

Saraaa · February 17, 2009

Wow looks delicious!

Tri2Cook · February 19, 2009

So basically, in addition to the extensive information on the science and theory of frozen desserts, the book also includes a large collection of recipes covering various types of frozen desserts. Each recipe has a plating example with the recipes for all of the components that accompany it. As I mentioned in my first post, I have no intention of doing them all at this time. So here are the next two I did. Just the base recipes without a plating or other components. I'll probably do several this way in the interest of laziness.

burnt milk gelato - black mission fig gelato

Both of these are really good. One of my tasters called the fig gelato "addictive". As for the burnt milk gelato, "burnt" is not a description I'm usually happy to see in a food context but I think this may be my new favorite flavor. An amazing, multi-layered depth of flavor that I intend to capture in other types of desserts as well.

pastrygirl · February 22, 2009

How long has this book been out?
He think he cooked at Veritas in NY before he went to TFL and I enjoyed his desserts.
Thanks
Ted
←

I picked up a copy in Bangkok last week; haven't had a chance to get into it yet, but it looks like a great resource.

tan319 · February 22, 2009

I saw FMFDs yesterday at a B&N, it's an impressive package.

Amazon is offering it at a substantial discount.

I'm going to nab it when I get busy again, I bought too many books at the end of '08 :blink:

Darienne · February 23, 2009

Both of these are really good. One of my tasters called the fig gelato "addictive". As for the burnt milk gelato, "burnt" is not a description I'm usually happy to see in a food context but I think this may be my new favorite flavor. An amazing, multi-layered depth of flavor that I intend to capture in other types of desserts as well.
←

Hi Tri2Cook,

Were you able to make the gelato in your Cuisinart Ice Cream maker? I seem to recall reading in a gelato recipe that you needed a special gelato maker to make gelato.

Thanks.

Tri2Cook · February 23, 2009

You can make gelato in your machine, it just takes paying a little extra attention during the churning process. You'll probably get different definitions from different people who will defend their opinion to the end but according to Chef Migoya the only consistent difference between ice cream and gelato is the amount of overrun (the amount of air mixed into the base while churning). Gelato should have less overrun and thus be more dense. The only way to control overrun with the frozen-bowl type machines is to check it now and then as it churns and estimate the overrun by the increase in volume. Once you know how long it has to go to reach the desired overrun, you can just go by time from then on with that base. You're shooting for around 20% overrun (increase in volume) for gelato.

tan319 · May 12, 2009

Tri2Cook

I don't know if you've seen Chef Migoyas blog yet, "The Quenelle".

Very nice stuff and even an "formula and adjustment page.

Discovered courtesy of Docsconz "the blog".

Enjoy!

Tri2Cook · May 12, 2009

Hadn't seen that. Thanks!

gap · May 24, 2009

Tri2Cook
I don't know if you've seen Chef Migoyas blog yet, "The Quenelle".
Very nice stuff and even an "formula and adjustment page.
Discovered courtesy of Docsconz "the blog".
Enjoy!
←

Thanks for the tip.

I tried the pistachio gelato last weekend. It's made with all milk (no cream) which gives it a slightly . . . fresher/crisper, rather than creamy, texture. I subbed in some glucose powder and invert sugar for some of the sugar component and it has kept well over the past week. Enjoyed the flavour, but I might try it with 50/50 milk and cream next time for my preference.

aprilmei · May 24, 2009

This sounds like a great book - can you please tell me if measurements are by volume or weight?

TIA

Tri2Cook · May 24, 2009

Weight with the corresponding percentages listed so it's really easy to scale (which is nice because the recipes are based on 5kg/11lb. batch size).

tan319 · May 24, 2009

Do any of the recipes state for Pacojet preferably, etc.?

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