The Supreme eGullet Baking and Pastry Challenge (Round 13)

[tammylc]

It's a New Year, so it's time for a new Supreme eGullet Pastry and Baking Challenge!

For round 13 I challenge Kouign Aman.

When I was looking for inspiration for her challenge, I came across this post (update on 2006 Culinary Resolutions).

She made some great progress on her 2006 resolutions, and given the timing of this challenge, it seemed fitting that I should help her continue that progress in 2007. So, my challenge to Kouign Aman is to make a dessert from/inspired by an ethnic cuisine you don't usually cook and that incorporates at least one vegetable. Bonus points for actually using your "good and accessible source of interesting produce."

Good luck, and have fun!

For future reference, these were the previous challenges:

Round 1 (Kerry Beal challenges Ling in Vancouver BC)- Take pineapple upside down cake and bring it into this century

Round 2 (Ling Challenges Gfron1 in Silver City NM) - Make a dessert containing an animal ingredient or product other than lard or bacon

Round 3 (Gronf1 challenges Mette in Copenhagen Denmark)- Create a deconstructed beer dessert

Round 4 (Mette Challenges Shalmanese in Seattle WA) - Create a dessert tapas plate consisting of 7 items in 7 days, using local and seasonal flavours

Round 5 (Shalmanese challenges Chiantiglace in West Palm Beach FL) - create a dessert involving smoke that evokes Autumn

Round 6 (Chiantiglace challenges K8Memphis in Memphis, TN) - create a dessert using Southern Sweet Tea

Round 7 (K8Memphis challenges SweetSide in rural CT) - create a desset using 5 kernels of corn representing the 5 blessing of the Pilgrims

Round 8 (SweetSide challenges alanamoana in the Silicon Valley, CA) - take fruitcake out of the land of the misfits and show us the beauty that lies within

Round 9 ( Alanmoana challenges Dejaq in Nation’s Capital) - make a dessert using Champagne and at least three Citrus Fruits, along with Agar Agar.

Round 10 (Dejaq in Nation's Capital challenges Kerry Beal in Ontario, Canada) - make a dessert utilizing white, milk and dark chocolate, along with a tea of her choice and a fresh seasonal pear.

Round 11 (Kerry Beal in Ontario, Canada challenges Chufi, in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, to make a dessert that evokes the spirit of Sinterklaas, uses speculaas spices and includes a seasonal fruit or vegetable.

Round 12 (Chufi in Amsterdam challenges tammylc in Ann Arbor, MI to make a dessert that incorporates at least 2 wines and 2 cheeses.

Edited April 26, 2018 by Smithy
Adjusted title to show sequence (log)

[Kouign Aman]

Tammy, thank you kindly ma'am, you clever lady you.

My first response to your very clever challenge was "Urk! Hoist on my own petard! "

I shall have to learn to post pix to complete this challenge, so thank you also for helping me meet one of my 2007 resolutions.

Gathering my thoughts to address:

a dessert from/inspired by an ethnic cuisine I don't usually cook

incorporating at least one vegetable,

preferably purchased from my local "good and accessible source of interesting produce".

The cuisines are essentially unlimited. As long as its not an american classic, I probably dont cook it, tho I may have dabbled in a few, some many years back. I seem to be focussed on indian just now (rice pudding with cardamom and pistachio). I think I have some reading to do.

Vegetable..... oh my. Im going to try to stay with whats locally in season (So Cal, thats a lot of options), but reserve the right to change my mind and go for the sweet baby peas in the freezer section, or some such.

brainstorming:

*A variation on the blette (swiss chard) tart I've read about

*Some way to use the tiny baby brussel sprouts from the garden (by far the most convenient and interesting if somewhat limited in stock)

*Do herbs count as a vegetable if used in larger than seasoning quantities?

*I wish tomatoes were in season - glaceed tomatoes in curry spices perhaps. Kind of like the italian mustard fruits but different spice.

*Sweet potatoes seem too easy - roasted, they are pretty much dessert on their own.

*what would go well with a thai-satay-peanut sort of sauce?

*modified bastilla?

[Kerry Beal]

This is going to be fun. The choices are limitless. I envy you the fresh stuff available to choose from in So Cal this time of year. Around here it would be carrots and parsnips.

[Kouign Aman]

Hmmmm - you've got me wondering about variations on carrot halvah (spelling unknown).

[jackal10]

Lots of sweet vegetables:

Carrot (cake, candy, halwa)

Parsnip flakes (cf Fat Duck)

Beet Jelly (ditto)

Sweet bean paste (bao, mooncake)

Corn in many forms, and ultimately corn syrup

DO Latkes with apple sauce or cinnamon sugar count?

Potato starch

Garlic ice cream

[K8memphis]

Do they grow potatoes in San Diego? I made oodles of tea-rings for Christmas presents. Umm, I used potato roll dough .

^^^Various stages of rising. ^^^

^^^My trunk full.^^^

Well, this is not particularly ethnic, except I'm Polish and it does have potato in it though. And it's not exactly a plated dessert. It's very tasty but certainly not pastry chef-ish nor plated dessert-ish. <clears throat> But I made several dozen of these for Christmas presents. I mean they are so much more bakery product than pastry chef creation kinda sorta. This is like breakfast food.

But I mean it's just a passing thought. Maybe it will jog an idea loose for you. I mean you can make so many zillion things with potato. There's even a potato candy.

What does "don't usually cook" mean? Go outside your comfort zone or eat raw??

Edited January 2, 2007 by K8memphis (log)

[Kerry Beal]

Do they grow potatoes in San Diego? I made oodles of tea-rings for Christmas presents. Umm, I used potato roll dough .

^^^Various stages of rising. ^^^

^^^My trunk full.^^^

Well, this is not particularly ethnic, except I'm Polish and it does have potato in it though. And it's not exactly a plated dessert. It's very tasty but certainly not pastry chef-ish nor plated dessert-ish. <clears throat> But I made several dozen of these for Christmas presents. I mean they are so much more bakery product than pastry chef creation kinda sorta. This is like breakfast food.

But I mean it's just a passing thought. Maybe it will jog an idea loose for you. I mean you can make so many zillion things with potato. There's even a potato candy.

What does "don't usually cook" mean? Go outside your comfort zone or eat raw??

←

Those look fabulous Kate, is it an almond filling?

[K8memphis]

Thank you, Kerry.

It's got some walnut meal tossed in to try to balance out that sugar blast from knocking you flat. But mostly it's a lot of clarified butter and lots of brown sugar with a bit of flour dusted on to keep the filling from flowing out. Simple refrigerated potato roll dough. fun fun fun

Edited January 2, 2007 by K8memphis (log)

[Kouign Aman]

So very pretty too! The group of them all together is so beautiful.

I'm kind of toggling between a custardy thing and playing with my user-name.

Kouign aman are breton pastries that taste like butter and caramel. I suppose every western culture has a version. These are supreme among them, as pralines are supreme among nut candies. (Can you tell Im fond of butter and sugar?)

Either could work well with warm spices, like cardamom and pistachios (like the indian rice pudding that first came to mind).

"Plateability" will have to come last.

Perhaps a ka studded with candied ginger, and with some spice in the dough (its laminated, so should be do able). I shall have to go sniff spice jars at the market.

Anyone know the texture of cooked lotus root? Im wondering if a custard could be baked inside the little holes of a cross section, or if it would fry up nice and crispy or? Something about the wheel shape appeals.

I feel like I could lift any number of desserts straight from SuzySushi's blog, and meet all the requirements (except the key one of originality )

Allspice and citrus - carribean influence?

[K8memphis]

Oh cool. And thank you. So I wasn't far off at all. My little dealies are total buttery caramel decadence. Cool cool cool.

Umm but while we're on the subject, umm, how do you pronounce Kouign Aman.

I generally slide by with a kooghin type sound and I know that's not right. Kooweegen? KweenahMahn, maybe? This is what language?

I'm as clueless on lotus root.

[Sunny Simmons Steincamp]

I *love* lotus root. I usually stir fry it with a few other veggies, or use it in a sweet/hot thingie I make with chicken or fish (kinda like a General Tso's sauce) and other vegetables. When cooked like this, I would describe the texture as tender/crisp... but I imagine you could get it more tender by cooking it differently.

I'll be interested to see what you do, if anything, with lotus as a dessert!

[Pontormo]

Given the name you chose to use here, it's most appropriate that you participate in this challenge. I only wish Tammy had asked you to incorporate insects instead of vegetables.

Since you bring up tomatoes which are fruit, it's only fair to point out that strawberries are vegetables.

Jackal10 has already mentioned beets; I'll note that Martha Stewart's early little book on pies and tarts includes a beautiful tart made with beets.

Three others that I don't recall seeing as I skimmed:

-zucchini which have been baked into chocolate cakes long before there were blogs

-sauerkraut, also found in Eastern European cakes, sometimes with the forementioned potato

-eggplants, also combined with chocolate in Naples and Siciliy

Note the celery candied with pears in January's Gourmet.

The challenge would be to find a vegetable that HASN'T had much of a role sweetened, at the end of a meal.

[Kouign Aman]

Given the name you chose to use here, it's most appropriate that you participate in this challenge.  I only wish Tammy had asked you to incorporate insects instead of vegetables.

-eggplants, also combined with chocolate in Naples and Siciliy

Note the celery candied with pears in January's Gourmet.

The challenge would be to find a vegetable that HASN'T had much of a role sweetened, at the end of a meal.

←

Well, I am still toying with the brussel sprouts from the garden....

Hmm - why did your post make me flash on deepfried basil leaves, or cilantro or baby spinach? That would reference pakora, but would need to be lighter and very crisp...

Why do you hate me? Its the wrong season for baby praying manti, so if Tammy'd given me bugs, I'd have gone to the indian store for some red food color (cochineal) and considered it done :weasel:. I dont do bugs. Tummy not happy just thinking about it. Tho' I'd consider eating tarantula if someone else did the cooking: "spider crab" as it were.

Im not an expert on pronunciation - I've only heard these pastries spoken of once, in Key West. It was sort of like "Queen" Uh-mahn. I picked the user name because it was a blogger's post on them which ended up leading me to eGullet. And they are delicious.

Edited January 2, 2007 by Kouign Aman (log)

[Pan]

If you were to bake or braise lotus root for a long time, it would soften considerably. If you have a chance, get some candied lotus root at a Chinese store and taste it. If nothing else, you'll probably enjoy it.

[Pan]

Oh, vegetables. Well, have you had Thai pumpkin custard? I suppose pumpkin is really botanically a fruit, though. Ditto for avocado.

[Kouign Aman]

I think its time to go shopping and get me a lotus root or three, and some kinda greens.

Im sort of stuck on this idea of small baked custards, with an indian flavor (cardamom, etc), some way of incorporating lotus root, and maybe making some nice crispy cilantro leaves to go with. I have to go pick a couple leaves and see how they taste sweetened.

I wonder if I can partially roast/braise the lotus root slices, then fill it with custard and bake the custard into the lotus wheels, or if things will separate and get all wet.

The other idea pushing for expression is some kind of a dessert ravioli, with green leafy veggie filling, thai-inspired sweet peanut sauce and nasturtiums would be pretty on top, but mine arent flowering yet. I wonder if I can construct a tasty flower from a persimmon or yam. Ibet a thinnish ring of kabocha squash would make a nice flower-like "surround" - and there we are at thai pumpkin custard! (Thanks Pan!)

oh - that made me wonder about making a sort of sweet terrine: green veg tbd, persimmon puree (lovely orange, fits with indian sweets), and TBD for a top/bottom layer.

All ideas are welcome. Shopping and cooking will begin tomorrow evening and most of the experimentation will occur during the day Friday. What's the deadline again?

[Pan]

Lotus seed is more conventional for Chinese desserts, but I suppose seeds don't count as vegetables? If they do, note the use of besan (chickpea) flour in many Indian sweets (e.g., besan burfi).

[dejaq]

Good luck to you Kouign Aman!

I just came up with some stuff playing around with salisfy and Jicama, interesting stuff. I made a raspberry balsamic poached infusion with the salsify, and sauted

the Jicama with some honey, lime and simple syrup, makes a terrifc salad and dehydrated between two sheets of silpat, a nice dryed decor.

Michael

[tammylc]

All ideas are welcome. Shopping and cooking will begin tomorrow evening and most of the experimentation will occur during the day Friday. What's the deadline again?

←

You get a week, so since you were officially tagged on Monday, you're supposed to finish by Sunday.

I love all the ideas you've come up with so far! Very creative.

[Kouign Aman]

This is where I am right now - dont know if its technically feasible.

Poach lotus root slices in syrup based on Pad Thai/Mee Krob sauce.

Fill the holes with a cilantro jelly

Serve with sweet peanut sauce (ala satay) - will need taste test to decide whether to make this one picante or not.

Cardamom custard, with maybe pistachio decor.

Trying to decide if I want a 'toothier' base to this, as contrast to the soft smooth texture. If so, might poach an appropriate root veggie and put a slice beneath the custard. Depends on what I find in the store - not sure I can get a boiling potato big enough, yucca and boniato dont seem right (memory of texture only). Maybe yam or yellow sweet potato-starchy thing.

editted to add: My concern about the first part is that it will feel like eating a sweet appetizer rather than a dessert. Only a test will tell. The Tenor has agreed to be the beta-site.

Edited January 4, 2007 by Kouign Aman (log)

[Kouign Aman]

Good luck to you Kouign Aman!

I just came up with some stuff playing around with salisfy and Jicama, interesting stuff. I made a raspberry balsamic poached infusion with the salsify, and sauted

the Jicama with some honey, lime and simple syrup, makes a terrifc salad and dehydrated between two sheets of silpat, a nice dryed decor.

Michael

←

Holy cow! Michael, that sounds completely delicious and completely unusual. I dont think I;ve ever so much as seen salsify in person. I had to google it. What was the texture on the sauteed jicama?

Thank you for the good wishes. Thanks to EVERYONE for the ideas and support.

I really appreciate every comment and idea, even tho it took me til now to say so.

I'm really more of an "editor" than a creator - I can riff off other folks ideas (thats "riff" not "rip"), but wow, its hard coming up from scratch. So, I am really grateful for all the ideas to work from!

Im completely intimidated by the beauty and creativity of the challenge results that precede this one. I have never 'plated' anything in my life.

With that said, Im having a lot of fun. Of course, I havent started cooking yet....

[Kouign Aman]

Lotus root is not going to work as hoped.

1) texture (not a bad texture just not... dessert)

2) its turned a lovely tan in the poaching which wont provide the color contrast I want.

I'm really obsessed with using it because of the lacey look of it. Silver lining: even if it doesnt make it into the dessert, I think it will make it into my next stew or meat braise.

Perhaps tomorrow some kind of small cake to get the flavors and I'll try frying or otherwise crisping a thin slice of the root.

[Kouign Aman]

Im re-reading in hopes of getting my brain cells out of a jam, and of answering any comments I didnt.

Do they grow potatoes in San Diego? ...Well, this is not particularly ethnic, except I'm Polish and it does have potato in it though. ...Maybe it will jog an idea loose for you. I mean you can make so many zillion things with potato. There's even a potato candy.

What does "don't usually cook" mean? Go outside your comfort zone or eat raw??

←

I hope it meant outside my cooking comfort zone. Using a raw veggie for dessert would certainly add to the challenge! :eek: I did pick up a couple of baking and boiling spuds, in case inspiration strikes.

I *love* lotus root.  I usually stir fry it with a few other veggies, or use it in a sweet/hot thingie I make with chicken or fish (kinda like a General Tso's sauce) and other vegetables.  When cooked like this, I would describe the texture as tender/crisp... but I imagine you could get it more tender by cooking it differently. 

I'll be interested to see what you do, if anything, with lotus as a dessert!

←

Thats exactly the texture - tender but still a bit crisp. It needs something chewier with it to make it feel like dessert somehow. Maybe a bit of cake ? I'd consider making a caramel candy to go under it but havent worked out how to make the other flavors work with that. Hmmmmm pnutbutter caramel maybe or sweet'n'sour caramel? Howinhell would I make that?

If you were to bake or braise lotus root for a long time, it would soften considerably. If you have a chance, get some candied lotus root at a Chinese store and taste it. If nothing else, you'll probably enjoy it.

←

Forgot to get the candied root, but it certainly softened. When I sliced the raw root it was almost woody. It also has very little taste to it. Seems perfect to be marinated for a white salad, in place of hearts of palm perhaps.

There's been a lot of laughing in the kitchen today.

[Sunny Simmons Steincamp]

Thats exactly the texture - tender but still a bit crisp. It needs something chewier with it to make it feel like dessert somehow. Maybe a bit of cake ? I'd consider making a caramel candy to go under it but havent worked out how to make the other flavors work with that.  Hmmmmm pnutbutter caramel maybe  or sweet'n'sour caramel? Howinhell would I make that?

Sweet n sour caramel!? Wow, that's something I've not considered before...

My grandmother made watermelon rind preserves, and the pieces of rind always had that tender/crisp texture, which is why, I guess, I thought that would be kind of cool in a dessert...

I'm still looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

[Tepee]

Oh, vegetables. Well, have you had Thai pumpkin custard? I suppose pumpkin is really botanically a fruit, though. Ditto for avocado.

←

Sure pumpkin is botanically a fruit, but it has always been culinarily thought a vegetable. Anyway, if you're still thinking of a custard, Thai/SEAsian/whatever pumpkin custard, as suggested by Michael, is delicious, and we steam it, rather than bake...comes out smoother (to me, at least).

As for your obsession with lotus root, it's quite do-able for a dessert. You can stuff it with glutinous rice, poach it in a light syrup and bathe it in wine (osmanthus) to serve.

Can't wait to see your creation. Have been bowled over by the results of these challenges........

Edited January 6, 2007 by Tepee (log)