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Everything posted by Pontormo

  1. Name is Feriel, most likely, unless she's doing the big Baltimore market and sent one of her assistants to a market founded by Nina Planck's mother. The former, known by many as The Mushroom Lady is quite a character: warm, fiercely political and a sucker for children. The chanterelles might have been foraged locally or possibly cultivated in Southern PA. No local porcini, though.
  2. From what I recall, Rick Bayless was more patronizing in his endorsement of a "healthier" new line of low-fat chicken sandwiches at Burger King than hypocritical. Definitely compromising his principles, but out of the belief that if the American public was going to eat fast food, at least he could steer them toward a menu item that wasn't packed with grease, fat, processed cheese, etc. and didn't cry out for an accompaniment of fries. Not sure what the historical sequence was: Oprah sued after vowing not to eat beef again, Bayless's commercial and the rise of the McNugget, but wasn't our he
  3. CREMA DI RISO CON I RICCI 4 servings 12 g Carnaroli rice 12 g Basmati rice 200 g Vegetable stock ["broth" is literal translation] 300 g Cream [see note below] 4 g Instant coffee, divided into 4 equal portions of 1 g each 40 g Sea urchins; weight of edible contents Extra virgin olive oil (light or subtle, e.g. from Liguria or Garda district) Pour both liquids into a saucepan with all the rice, then bring contents to boil. Allow them to cook for around 15 minutes, checking every 1-2 minutes. (Recipe does not say "simmer" or "stir", but trusts the reader's judgment.) Stir th
  4. sometimes a degree of richness based on bechamel does co-exist in the otherwise sleekly tomato-evoo-basil leaf Neapolitan palate. a leftover of the French chefs who cooked for the aristocrats during the days when naples was part of the kingdom of....whichever kingdom it was part of...... ← Even earlier: The Kingdom of Naples. Angevin (as in Louis of Anjou, etc.). 13th and 14th century--i.e. another example of Franco-Italian cuisine, though this is too early to have more than recipes as marginalia and insertions in the kind of manuscript that might be cataloged as a compilation. Pizzanap
  5. Given the lively discussion on Meat and Morality in a different forum, I am reviving a cooking topic which never caught on the same way that Regrettable Meals did as an alternative to the Dinner thread. Here, recent posts on dishes from Campania (Naples, etc.) might inspire others wishing to prepare more vegetarian meals. Cf. my own post on pasta stuffed with eggplant, basil and bechamel, then Foodman's gorgeous Ziti alla Sorrentina. Others?
  6. I can see why you say that, though aren't sformati rather widespread at this point? At least you find them in Central Italy and not just Piemonte. Given the importance and fame of fresh cheeses in this region, it makes sense that there are more dishes w balsamella, which Marcella Hazan attributes to Romagna. Sartu, is the one that springs to mind. * * * Shaya, good to see you here, too! This is actually the second time I've made it, the first being at a time when my principal ingredients were local and in season. It's still one of my absolute favorites of all the things I prepared first
  7. While it's hard to feel nostalgic for summer during a winter of unusual warmth and little snow, finally the temperatures dropped and winds picked up enough to make treks down long city streets a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, the best place to pick up basil in January is only two blocks away and the leaves survived the journey home. Eggplants were on sale and I've been thinking about this dish ever since I spied cans of cherry tomatoes imported from Italy at Whole Foods. Also found something equivalent to paccheri called "gigantoni" by a local supermarket as part of its upscale line.So, l
  8. Thank you for introducing all of us to a new term. Strictly speaking, though, Prince William might tee off near his alma mater, but Queen Elizabeth II does not tea with corgis curled up at her feet.
  9. Andrew, I am very interested in this topic, too, and asked culinary professionals who are members here if they smoked. FYI, here's what was said a couple of years ago: Chefs, Cooks & Cigarettes.
  10. Also a place I passed for the first time on the western side of Columbia while walking north from Dupont Circle into Adams-Morgan in the past couple of weeks.
  11. Hi, Randi. I've been skimming through this joint-blog and wish all of you success, or should I say continued success in deference to the impressive results Mizducky has reported in the past.Last year when I decided to do something about over a decade of slowly accumulating pounds, I chose simply to modify the amount I ate and to impose a few restrictions while exercising more. Granted, I am not counting WW points, nor concerned about limiting carbohydrates, but in researching various words of advice about weight loss, I decided to heed something I read over and over again: Don't waste calori
  12. To atone for my original response, I'd like to add something that offers a bonus since lentils also are rich in iron: Here's a picture of the soup, unfortunately on an Italian cooking forum, but I think you can get the idea: Lentil soup w fresh clams. And while not exactly what I was looking for--something w clams, sausage and spinach or greens in a broth: Spicy sausage soup w clams; there are also tomatoes as per advice concerning benefits of acidic component. For a brief moment, fregole were poised on the brink of becoming the new thing here in the States, and I admit, the small Sardinian
  13. As in pappardelle.Broader than spaghetti pasta and more suitable for the condimenti than baguette bread.
  14. Have you been researching other foods high in iron to lend variety? While moist, cooked clams, canned or fresh have 28 mg iron per 100 g. serving, dried Beluga whale will supply 72.3 mg iron for the same amount. Dried spices would amp up the amount of iron considerably. Maybe use a citrus-thyme sauce to go with? Cf. Nutrition Data.
  15. While I seem to have lost the set of pom poms that matched the letter sweater I picked up at one of those sconti at Armani, I have nonetheless glanced periodically at the Italian forum, pleased with all that you've been doing with huge slabs of porcini (Kevin, wow!) and round pans of lasagna (gorgeous, Klary!). The recent flurry of activity inspires me to raise a glass to all the original participants of the Italian regional cooking threads who continue to contribute, as well as newcomers. Elie: As always, your commitment to make everything from scratch impresses me as much as your skill in s
  16. While there are fairly recent comments that should be of use--especially those of gracious, witty and always opinionated hosts of France and this particular region--might I recommend browsing a local food message board where the traffic is more congested? Go to DonRockwell.com. The fact that the Restaurant and Dining section is at the top of the forum's index indicates the primary raison of its etre. The eloquent, irreverent founder has a personal guide to restaurants that only members may scrutinize, however, you should have access to more than you'll need to know. * * * As for your ow
  17. Like snowflakes, so many of us are unique, but easily replaced. You, Sir Sconzo, are one of the rare ones. Not a flake, I mean, but unique and I can't imagine anyone who could replace you. Thank you for being such a kind, generous host. I've enjoyed reports of your travels and learned a great deal from the thorough accounts of conferences. I still don't know how you managed to take so many pictures, yet somehow attend to the presentations of chefs you so clearly admired! It's been fun interacting with you. I appreciate your positive spirit and enthusiasm, especially.
  18. Last year, I resolved to walk more and in the spirit of the original Pontormo, keep track of everything I ate for the sake of losing weight. I did and I did. While I'd rather listen to organ music than diet, I followed some advice for losing weight, including a recommendation to fill up on soup. Here's the resulting inventory: SOUPS OF 2007 • Lentil minestrone w rice and chard • Roasted Red Pepper Soup Mirepoix, butternut squash, red lentils, paprika, pimenton and stock; half puréed. • Cappelletti en brodo with Parmesan • Escarole soup made w leftovers including chicken & a
  19. Abra, thanks for the gracious response to my question about regional cooking. I was thinking about the eager use you three were making of local ingredients and Paula Wolfert's cookbook which Busboy has also consulted with spectacular results--wondering about the extent to which tradition is perpetuated locally on a day-to-day basis. I kind of suspect the paen to peanut doodles also answers my question, if indirectly!
  20. Judith, my point is that Italy doesn't have a well-developed restaurant culture -- or perhaps I should say restaurant tradition of long standing -- compared to France. Due to the Revolution and other factors, France's restaurant culture was underway by the beginning of the 19th Century. In Italy, on the other hand, even by the Second World War there wasn't much more than the occasional roadside osteria -- and certainly there was no expectation among Italians that the food would be particularly good. Osterie were for people who didn't know anyone they could stay with in town. When restauran
  21. Salut, mesdames! This is truly a wonderful undertaking; I only regret that Lucy had to return to Lyon so quickly. Her photograph of the candied citrus peel (?) stacked in neatly tied bundles is one the most beautiful contributions thus far. My other favorites have already been singled out: the blue, weathered shutters and warm, ripe cheese. Thank you so much for sharing this week with us. I look forward to more. Abra, the photographs of the enormous supermarket (!!!!), un-decapitated bird, not yet footloose, and the meal you three share inspire a question. Granted, you are gifted cooks who
  22. Pontormo


    Docsconz: Thank you for a wonderful report of your dinner. I am guessing by your description of one of your unnamed dining companions, you had an incredible selection of wines, too. What an amazing night! Just a footnote to the whole "Is he/isn't he" question and Bruni's review. The latter doesn't bother me all that much given its appreciation of Trabocchi's food and the lack of concern the critic expresses when confronted with the problem of classifying the menu. But I do find the notes about lasagna interesting in light of the collaborative effort of several eGullet members to cook our
  23. "Welcome, stranger. You shall be entertained as a guest among us. Afterward, when you have tasted dinner, you shall tell us what your need is." —The Odyssey, II, 118-124 The pact between host and guest is central to Ancient Greek culture where hospitality serves as a touchstone for determining one's ethos. There is the tale of Baucis and Philemon, an old couple whose generous meal of cabbage and pork inspires Zeus and Hermes to throw off their disguise and as a reward, transform husband and wife for all eternity into two sturdy trees that rise from a single trunk. When the house of Odysseus
  24. And thanks, Rachel for answering my questions, and thank you Chefzadi for the links, though I blush to see that Markemorse linked the article early on in this blog. I look forward to catching up on the other bits I have yet to read, as well as reading more carefully what I have only scanned. Two things, though. You probably cover this in your writing, but regarding the mole, what I find interesting is the symbiosis of cultures. Arabs bring spices, nuts, fruits to Spain as the conquerors. Centuries after the end of Cordoba's power, conqueror-wannabees bring tomatoes and chocolate back to Sp
  25. Rachel: First, thank you for contributing this view of your scholarly and culinary life in Mexico. Your discussion of servants is, indeed, brave and much too complicated for me to comment upon more than to thank you for gently pushing an issue from the background to the foreground. Your week here is timely for me since I've just learned how to make tamales and starting to make simple Mexican food w accessible ingredients, including the two sauces you just prepared. The salsa roja is relatively new to me--are chiles other than Guajillo used? As for the salsa verde, I've never seen it prepar
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