The Cooking and Cuisine of Emilia-Romagna

[FoodMan]

Polenta is poured on a wooden board in desired shape and when cooled and solid, cut into layers with thread (or dental floss) wrapped tightly around fingers of each hand.

Too funny, I actually thought you meant that the polenta is "wrapped tightly around fingers of each hand." and couldn't figure out why or how, until it clicked that you are talking about the floss.

I also agree about the Ragu in a risotto, I know Marcella has a recipe for that in her Essentials book. Basically make a good risotto the normal way and stir in the ragu towards the end. A classy hearty dinner in under 30 minutes.

[Chufi]

In the Splendid Table (are you sick of us quoting the E-R bible yet?)

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No, 'cause I don't have the book! Maybe that's what I should've asked for Christmas!

[little ms foodie]

Polenta is poured on a wooden board in desired shape and when cooled and solid, cut into layers with thread (or dental floss) wrapped tightly around fingers of each hand.

Too funny, I actually thought you meant that the polenta is "wrapped tightly around fingers of each hand." and couldn't figure out why or how, until it clicked that you are talking about the floss.

I also agree about the Ragu in a risotto, I know Marcella has a recipe for that in her Essentials book. Basically make a good risotto the normal way and stir in the ragu towards the end. A classy hearty dinner in under 30 minutes.

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I thought the same thing!!!

ok I have some ragu in the freezer from last month when we made our lasagne....

now I'm thinking of polenta and ragu pie..............

[Kevin72]

I'll shift gears from heaping praise on LRK for a moment and turn things back to Mario Batali's excellent run on Emilia-Romagna. Man I miss that show.

At any rate, last night's meal was based on his guazetto (sp?) di rane from Ravenna recipe: frog legs in a very simple braise. I used chicken wings. Hmm. I'm getting tired of chicken.

Sear the wings (or legs!) in an iron skillet, then add a standard mirepoix, then sprinkle with flour, and finally add white wine and tomato paste or just a couple canned tomatoes and cook for 30 minutes or so. I served mine with wedges of broiled polenta:

I have to say, I've been making so many meals that have copious leftovers lately that it was nice to have this one-off meal with nothing left at the end.

[hathor]

Looks like I'll be making spinach ravioli...those photos just look way tooooo good. Beautifully done, ladies!

Kevin, that chicken dish looks good, simple and satisfying.

What's the difference between 'ragu' and 'sugo'? It's always confused me.

[Pontormo]

Very ecologically sensitive substitution, Kevin, and the polenta looks great. If you've tired of braises and now chicken, you can look forward to Christmas Eve--or go hunting for free-range pork.

Here's to turning to other resources, too! I checked Batali's Simple Food out of the library and still have not done Ada Boni justice.

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I thought "sugo" to be a more liquid sauce in which meat sometimes serves as a flavoring agent whereas ragus are denser stews featuring long-cooked meats, all other ingredients playing supporting roles. Ragu Bolognese kind of teeters between the two categories, especially when tomatoes dominate as they do in Hazan's beloved version. Didn't Divina once call Bolognese a sugo for that reason? Not sure.

ETA: More complicated than that. "Sugo di carne" is sometimes used to define "ragu." Is "sugo" to "ragu" what "mammal" is to "lion"? How do you classify a Genovese when the meat's served as one course and the sauce from the braise tops pasta as the primo?

Edited December 14, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[FoodMan]

I thought Sugo was more or less a meat broth.

[hathor]

I thought Sugo was more or less a meat broth.

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I've never heard it used for a broth. A broth is usually a brodo. Maybe its just a regional/dialect type thing, although I've heard both words used for basically the same type of sauce. Then again Pontormo's theory makes a lot of sense, a ragu is a sub-class of sugos. Boh!

[little ms foodie]

I thought Sugo was more or less a meat broth.

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I've never heard it used for a broth. A broth is usually a brodo. Maybe its just a regional/dialect type thing, although I've heard both words used for basically the same type of sauce. Then again Pontormo's theory makes a lot of sense, a ragu is a sub-class of sugos. Boh!

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My Parma book calls sugo "meat sauce" but definately not broth (brodo)

[Mottmott]

I'm brewing an earthenware pot of Hazan's ragu on a back burner. And while it's not fair to judge after only an hour's braising, I must say that it seems tomato heavy and to lack the complexity of the Country Ragu (Kasper, p 48) that I've made in the past. The plus side of the Hazan ragu is that I needn't run to the Italian deli for pancetta and prosciutto. (I've taken to keeping some pancetta in the freezer, but that doesn't work so well for prosciutto.)

The funny thing is that the first time I made Kasper's ragu, I thought at first I'd miss the heavy tomato thing, only to discover I liked missing it.

On another note: I'm having trouble finding tomatoes (even San Marzano) that are not packed with tomato paste instead of the clear juice. And it's especially annoying that it's not always noted on the label.

edited to add: jury's in. The Hazan ragu - to my taste buds - is good, but not as good as the complex unctuous Kasper Country ragu which uses veal, beef, pork, pancetta, prosciutto, stock and hardly any tomato.

Edited December 15, 2006 by Mottmott (log)

[Kevin72]

I think the tomato version benefits from longer cooking, the longer the better. If I recall, it doesn't start coming together until after the second hour of cooking: before that it just tastes like tomato sauce with ground meat. But somewhere, that synergy happens and the two combine.

But then again, we're probably talking differences in taste preferences here. I've made the version with only tomato paste before and didn't like it as much as when using canned tomatoes. But I do agree that adding additional meats besides just beef really goes a long way as well.

[Mottmott]

I think the tomato version benefits from longer cooking, the longer the better.  If I recall, it doesn't start coming together until after the second hour of cooking: before that it just tastes like tomato sauce with ground meat.  But somewhere, that synergy happens and the two combine.

But then again, we're probably talking differences in taste preferences here.  I've made the version with only tomato paste before and didn't like it as much as when using canned tomatoes.  But I do agree that adding additional meats besides just beef really goes a long way as well.

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In the Country Ragu, not only are there 3 raw meat sources but there is also the pancetta, prosciutto, and strong stock. Then, too, the amount of tomato is much smaller. I think all this contributes to the more balanced flavor.

You're right about the long simmering of the tomatoes. But in this case the ragu simmered more than 4 1/2 hours after the tomatoes were added. I stopped simmering only after the ragu had no visible liquid left. To continue cooking, I would have had to add liquid.

While as the front and center dressing of pasta this sauce may be a bit unbalanced, I think it will work very well in lasagna where the tomato-yness will be moderated by the cheese and bechamel. Context can be everything.

[mrbigjas]

You're right about the long simmering of the tomatoes. But in this case the ragu simmered more than 4 1/2 hours after the tomatoes were added. I stopped simmering only after the ragu had no visible liquid left. To continue cooking, I would have had to add liquid.

uh oh, is that a bad thing? whenever i've made meat sauce i've always added a little liquid if it looks dry and it hasn't cooked long enough... OH GOD I'VE RUINED EVERYTHING.

ok while i'm asking questions: pontormo, you say chicken wings are an ecologically sensible substitute for frog's legs--are frogs threatened in some way? should i be avoiding dishes containing them or something?

[hathor]

ok while i'm asking questions: pontormo, you say chicken wings are an ecologically sensible substitute for frog's legs--are frogs threatened in some way?  should i be avoiding dishes containing them or something?

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It just takes so damn long for the legs to grow back...it's ages before you can harvest them again!

(At the Coop in Italy, you buy the whole skinned frog, and do the leg harvest bit yourself. Can you make frog soup...like turtle soup??) P.S. If frogs are endgangered, I had no idea.

This ragu conversation is just great...you guys sound EXACTLY like a bunch of Italians discussing the exact same thing!

[FoodMan]

I'm brewing an earthenware pot of Hazan's ragu on a back burner

Maybe it's just me, but this is one cool line.

Honestly my favorite recipe that I've tried so far for Ragu, comes from Molto Mario, from his Babbo book. I am not a big fan of the tomatoey Hazan one. To me it tastes a bit too much like the meat sauce you get at Italian-American restaurants in the US. Mario uses very little tomato paste, some white wine and also milk. It ends up as a rich and delicious meat sauce with the slightest pink color. Of course being the eternal experimenter that I am, I will probably try a Kaspar one next.

[Pontormo]

Mottmott: The switcharoo from packing tomatoes in light tomato juice to filling the can with heavy purée has been one of my bugbears for quite some time. The company increases profit and sells you fewer tomatoes per can, sometimes 5 1/2 in the large. 28 oz size. It used to be that you got better deals buying the 14 oz. (formerly 16 oz.) cans of Italian plum tomatoes, but no longer, thanks to the purée factor.

HOWEVER, I find the purée useful in the 4 1/2 hour process of simmering ragu, even when I raise my pot on high, stacking one burner plate* on top of the other. I just pour the purée into the pot at the beginning, along with the tomatoes, so it cooks down. (Not the whole can's worth.)

*Foodman and Little Ms. Foodie, feel free to edit my language for clarity or to correct terminology used for that wrought-iron looking square or circle that fits into the recessed space surrounding the burner; it is designed so that you can securely place a pot above the gas flame of the burner and I don't know what else to call it.

As for those of you ragging on Marcella's tomato-rich recipe, I find it results in unpretentious comfort food, different from what I've had in Italian-American restaurants. The ragu is very sweet, though, and I do like to add pancetta sometimes. Anna del Conte prefers a little tomato paste to adding lots of tomatoes. Marcella seems to stand alone on this matter, but she's also from this region, so.... I also plan on making a different version of Bolognese.

Edited December 15, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[Pontormo]

Tonight, Emilia-Romagna served American style, with three things on a single plate:

Pollo di Carnevale

Mascied patate

Cavolo con aglio

#1: ST, p. 277; #3, op. cit., p. 331. For the former, retrieve Elie's photo of skinless chicken thighs, but browned first with fresh sage leaves. The soffrito was made with pancetta, carrots, parsley and onion. A bit tired of porcini & soaking liquid due to leftovers last week, I subbed minced fresh mushrooms in building up a sauce of white wine, stock, tomato paste, with Nicoise thrown in at the end. I still like chicken, but there is nothing particular to say about this dish other than the fact that it was somethiing to do with thighs that didn't go into ragu. Give me a beautifully roasted bird instead.

The cabbage, on the other hand was a welcome change in diet since I rarely buy the vegetable and it's usually red when I do. It also was the first time I ever cut cloves of garlic into 1/4-inch dice. Ended up needing lots and lots of salt. There's leftover tagliatelle to toss with the leftovers and maybe a little for stampot, too.

Edited December 16, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[weinoo]

Well, I finally got around to doing some Emilian cooking, after looking at and drooling over everyone's scrumptious photos! The other night for dinner, we had some guests over and I made a risotto with wild mushrooms, followed by LRK's Agnello al Forno con Aglio e Patate, with a contorno of Cicorie alla Griglia, (actually made under the broiler) followed by poached pears in red wine. Here are some shots:

This is the mise for both the mushroom risotto and the lamb with potatoes...

And the finished lamb dish...

Along with it's contorno of grilled endive and radicchio...

Everything was quite delicious...our guests loved it and there weren't even any leftovers! Sorry I missed getting a shot of the risotto and the pears - by the time we got to the pears, I had an excuse (too much red wine) but I don't know what happened with the risotto!

[Pontormo]

Mitch: Perfectly orchestrated meal! Lamb looks especially delicious. I picked up some radicchio and endives this weekend for precisely the same reason you did.

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Just a quick note to say that leftover garlic cabbage goes best with fresh tagiatelle when a little heavy cream is added to bind the two. Good lunch.

And FYI for those who haven't purchased or borrowed The Splendid Table. Looks as if there are a number of recipes on the web site.

[Chufi]

And FYI for those who haven't purchased or borrowed The Splendid Table.  Looks as if there are a number of recipes on the web site.

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I finally broke down and ordered it on Amazon yesterday. It won't arrive until January though..

I also made the garlic cabbage today, to go with some braised hare and polenta. Delicious. I love that cabbage! I have leftovers, so I might try it with pasta as you suggest tomorrow, Pontormo.

[weinoo]

Mitch:  Perfectly orchestrated meal!  Lamb looks especially delicious.  I picked up some radicchio and endives this weekend for precisely the same reason you did.

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Thanks, Pontorno. Lamb WAS delicious, though in retrospect, I should have made it a little juicier by deglazing the roasting pan after browning the lamb and potatoes under the broiler. And I veered slightly from the recipe by using lamb shoulder with the bone-in...I just like the flavor you get when the bones are cooked with the dish as opposed to boneless anything!

[little ms foodie]

yum weinoo I love the look of that meal!!!

We have more dishes we'll be doing this week including my first ever attempt at gnocci alla parmesean and polenta al sugo thanks to that conversation!

[Abra]

Gosh that's a nice book! I've read it from cover to cover and have about 30 recipes marked as possibilities for the holidays. Now to narrow them down.

I made a decidedly un-ER pasta this afternoon to take to a potluck - gemelli with radicchio in a fennel pollen cream sauce with butter-toasted crumbs and pine nuts on top - but I'll reform soon, I swear.

[Kevin72]

I made a decidedly un-ER pasta this afternoon to take to a potluck - gemelli with radicchio in a fennel pollen cream sauce with butter-toasted crumbs and pine nuts on top - but I'll reform soon, I swear.

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That doesn't sound like anything that needs to be reformed from, in my book!

[Kevin72]

Sunday night's meal began with a salad based on the sauteed pear appetizer in ST. I then crisped some prosciutto in the butter and toasted pecans in the pan as well, tossed everything with mixed greens, and shaves of parmigiano over the top:

Then I made, I think, strichetti? I dunno, the bowtie pasta, but they're not called farfalle.

There was parsley and lemon zest in the dough.

For the pasta condimento, I had frozen the last bit of onion soup from last week, along with the balsamic chicken drippings. I reduced both of these together with thyme and more parsley.

The main was simply grilled veal chops, marinated in rosemary and garlic.

Damn, but veal is expensive! Thank goodness I cooked it to the right temp and didn't dry it out or I'd have been really angry! I was really pleased with them.

On the side were balsamic green beans:

The dessert was the baked clove and cinnamon custard. Tasty, but I should've put some kind of berries with it, I think.