Christmas shopping in Paris

[LindaK]

Thanks to an impulse purchase many months ago during an Air France promotion, I’m going to be in Paris in mid-December for a week. Very exciting, even if it’s only a short visit, I haven’t been in two years.

Given the timing of this trip, I’m hoping to do some Christmas shopping while I’m there. I know Paris pretty well but not as a shopper—it’s never been very high on my list of favorite pastimes when there, especially when I could be eating, so I’m at a bit of a loss as to where to start. Usually I come home with a suitcase full of contraband cheeses, a copper pot or some items from Dehillerin, and not much else.

What does everyone else bring home for family and friends? Any good gift ideas? Favorite stores? I prefer to stay away from the grands magasins, if possible. My friends in particular are excellent cooks, and would appreciate interesting ingredients, kitchen gadgets, serving pieces, or home accessories.

[Ptipois]

What does everyone else bring home for family and friends?  Any good gift ideas? Favorite stores?  I prefer to stay away from the grands magasins, if possible.

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Why is that? Grands magasins have the best choices. For kitchen stuff my favorite is the BHV, which has one of the largest and best-stocked kitchen items department in Europe. And there are new kitchen sections at Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette (which I haven't seen yet, a whole building in the latter case) that are supposedly very nice.

For unusual gifts, I've noticed today that Mariage Frères have a particularly nice new collection of tea canisters, teapots and other tea-related items.

[bleudauvergne]

I second ptipois' recommendation. BHV, metro Hotel de Ville.

[bushey]

One of my favorite department store purchases ever was a translucent plastic Waterman pen from La Samaritaine. They also had gorgeous stationery and notebooks, which would make lovely and easy-to-carry-home gifts.

Beautiful table linens, even napkins or kitchen towels, make wonderful gifts. There are several stores around rue Jacob that specialize in them. Nice scarves are another item I love to buy in Paris.

Even drugstore items would be great -- hand lotions, lip balms, small soaps. Everything looks more chic and elegant in Parisian packaging. Also, look for interesting old books with beautiful illustrations along the quais. Lots of interesting botanical drawings there as well.

If the weather outside is really nasty, spend some time shopping and browsing underground near the Louvre. There are all sorts of shops and a wonderful museum store.

[follonica2]

Thanks to an impulse purchase many months ago during an Air France promotion, I’m going to be in Paris in mid-December for a week.  Very exciting, even if it’s only a short visit, I haven’t been in two years.

Given the timing of this trip, I’m hoping to do some Christmas shopping while I’m there.  I know Paris pretty well but not as a shopper—it’s never been very high on my list of favorite pastimes when there, especially when I could be eating, so I’m at a bit of a loss as to where to start.  Usually I come home with a suitcase full of contraband cheeses, a copper pot or some items from Dehillerin, and not much else.

What does everyone else bring home for family and friends?  Any good gift ideas? Favorite stores?  I prefer to stay away from the grands magasins, if possible.  My friends in particular are excellent cooks, and would appreciate interesting ingredients, kitchen gadgets, serving pieces, or home accessories.

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Last year, we discovered the rue des Francs Bourgeois, the border between the 3rd and 4th. There are many small shops on and just off that street. Worth a morning's meander and so is lunch at Camille at #24.

Edited November 28, 2005 by follonica2 (log)

[John Talbott]

A gentle reminder; let's stick to our mission as a food site; so far so good but we might tilt off into a general shopping site if not careful.

That said, last week I found a terrific shop besides Kodo, 29, rue du Bourg-Tibourg in the 4th, with wonderful products (everything from oil to caramels) from Provence and elsewhere in stunning packaging/tins/boxes/etc.

[Busboy]

My favorite souvenirs from France are a simple "antique" place-setting for six and a branded pastisse water caraffe with matching glasses, both of which were purchased for a reasonable price in a parking lot in Carpentras. I wonder if sopme of the locals might know the kind of shops that sell used but distinctively French cooking and eating items for a reasonable price -- place settings, napkins, old china, beer glasses, cafe signs etc....

I should add that we also have a beautiful provencal tablecloth made by delightful woman whome we encountered at the morning market in Vaison la Romaine, after viewing untold hectares of the type of inexpensive and generally garish "provencal" fabrics that end up as placemats and purses here in the U.S. Tips regarding fabric shops in Paris that sell high-quality lace and fabrics, might be appreciated, as well.

(Yes, you guessed it: I may be going to Paris this summer, so I'm being entirely selfish here while pretending to be helpful to Linda).

[menton1]

I believe the above-mentioned La Samaritaine is closed now for a 3-year renovation. I think also that Galeries Lafayette is the best place to start, they have a lot of choices, big selections. Unusual little gifts you might find in the basement (sous-sol) of the BHV, such as Parisian street signs, key chains, and door signs in french.

We have found another good way to shop is to stroll along the little streets in the 4th Arr., some very unusual artisinal shops there. Torchons are a nice gift as well. Not much of the ticky tacky shops in the 4th. A good place for unusual food and spices is Izrael, a crammed-full epicerie with off-beat foods. It's on rue Francois-Miron in the 4th as well. Brittany fleur de sel is an interesting gift, as well as some very unusual stuff.

[John Talbott]

I believe the above-mentioned La Samaritaine is closed now for a 3-year renovation. 

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Correct and the unions fear it is forever; when I went by 10 days ago or so it did not appear that any renovation to correct the 'safety problems' was underway.

[hazardnc]

Go to the stationery depart. at BHV. On my last trip, I bought some beautiful menu cards that were inexpensive and are fun for dinner parties.

I don't know if you have a good patisserie in Boston, but if not, then buy some macaroons from Laduree - the boxes are like jewel cases. Laduree

Gerard Mulot chocolates are wonderful, as are his macaroons Gerard Mulot

There is a wonderful kitchen wares shop in Les Halles - someone on this forum will know the name. Copper pots and more to be found.

I also love linens - if you are interested, I can look up the name of the man in the Marais who sells gorgeous damask table cloths and tea towels.

Also in the Marais is a shop that sells vintage hotel silver pieces - tea and coffee pots, cutlery, etc.

[John Talbott]

There is a wonderful kitchen wares shop in Les Halles - someone on this forum will know the name.  Copper pots and more to be found.

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There are several in the area just west and north of Les Halles: best known for copper, etc is E. Dehillerin, 18-20 Rue Coquilliere in the 1st but a block away there are nice plates, etc at A. Simon, 48 rue Montmartre, in the 2nd.

And there was a recent thread on pastry equipment.

Edited by John Talbott to add last suggestion.

Edited November 28, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[hazardnc]

Thanks, John -

and the name of the shop that sells the vintage silver plated items is Argenterie de Turenne at 19 Rue de Turenne

A kitchen item I wish I had bought on my last trip: Apilco pots de creme cups - you cannot get them in the states - at least, not that I have found

[mikeycook]

I am particularly fond of Laure Japy on Rue du Bac in the 7th (assuming they haven't closed or moved since 1993). They have beautiful place settings. It is virtually across the street from L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon.

[John Talbott]

A kitchen item I wish I had bought on my last trip:  Apilco pots de creme cups - you cannot get them in the states - at least, not that I have found

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Why do you prefer those to Emile Henry's?

[hazardnc]

I have not found an Emile Henry cup that has a lid - my preference is based more on looks than function!

[LindaK]

So many good suggestions in such a short time--thank you all, it's exactly what I wanted. I hope that suggestions for cooking gear, place settings, table linens, etc. don't cross the line into a general shopping thread, not my intention at all. If there's an issue, John, folks should feel free to PM me with their ideas.

Ptipois, my aversion to the grands magasins is mostly based on past experiences of jostling with crowds in the jam-packed basement of the BHV, not much different from a Saturday morning at my local Home Depot. I have a problem with big department stores in the States, too, I never find them very inspiring. Either that or I'm overwhelmed by too much choice. Just a personal preference, I suppose.

But I love the ideas for stores carrying interesting, unusual food products--like Kudo or Izrael mentioned here--as well as items like menu cards, pots de creme, linens, antique place settings, etc. that I would not have thought of. Also, it's great to know about good shopping streets or neighborhoods (and lunch suggestions!).

Boston doesn't have anything remotely as good as Laduree. Do items like macaroons travel/keep well? I always have a huge cheese-fest for friends a day or two after I come home but otherwise have not tried to bring back food. Cheese, on the other hand, is very forgiving.

Keep the suggestions coming, please. Isn't it fun to spend other people's money?

[hazardnc]

I would save the macaron purchase for the day before you leave, since they don't last too long. The packaging at Laduree is fairly sturdy and should protect them in transit. I am such a sucker for good packaging. A Laduree box is up there with the little blue box from Tiffany's! Sadly, I ate mine on the plane so I had none to share.

When I shop abroad, my strict rule is to only buy what I cannot possibly get here or only those items that are a deal, including the current exchange rate.

I went to the Izrael spice store, but did not see anything I could not get here.

At BHV, in the basement hardware department, you can get other great little items that you cannot get here, such as the blue and white enamel signs, etc. One item I meant to buy on my last trip was a metal grate used for heating vents. It would have made a great trivet.

I second the grocery store bid, also. You can buy a cat lover some French cat food in flavors like rabbit and duck!

[Images]

BHV has a wonderful selection of the high quality French lace in their fabric department. Buy as much or as little as you wish in several patterns! It makes wonderful curtains for your kitchen windows!

[Ptipois]

Ptipois,  my aversion to the grands magasins is mostly based on past experiences of jostling with crowds in the jam-packed basement of the BHV, not much different from a Saturday morning at my local Home Depot.  I have a problem with big department stores in the States, too, I never find them very inspiring. Either that or I'm overwhelmed by too much choice. Just a personal preference, I suppose.

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Well BHV has five storeys, the basement is for hardware and tools. Just take three escalators, the kitchen department is on the 3rd floor. It is not particularly jammed and is one of my favorite shopping places, with amazing choice.

[Brad K.]

My favorite spot for food related gifts is Goumanyat. On a small street in the 3rd with limited hours (www.goumanyat.com for info). Plan to spend some time in this small shop. They specialize in exotic spices. The owner will lead you on a world pepper "tasting" (smell only) - out of giant beakers. His family has been in the business for hundreds of years. He has hundreds of spice and pepper variety, plus every blend imaginable. The packaging is pretty too - I have given their items as holiday gifts myself. Definitely unique. Lots of great oils too (I like their pumpkin seed oil). He sells wine downstairs (a great selection I hear) and cooking paraphanalia upstairs too.

[TarteTatin]

Tuile a Loup, at the Censier Daubenton Metro in the bottom of the Moufettard market is a lovely pottery, kitchen and napkin/tablecloth shop. We've bought lots of Terre de Provence platters and they have a great selection of kitchen/dining room gifts. And, the staff pack it well for travel on the plane!

Right next door is Delice de Daubenton. He sells all sorts of artisinal food products, we got lavender oil from there that we brought home and make lavender meringues from. Also mustards, etc.

We usually go to a Monoprix or similar for bulk dark chocolate bars, soaps, (cheaper than L'Occitane)- fluffy prunes, bisquits to bring home (Hediard almond, etc.). We also bring home tins (not glass) of Puget olive oil and, if we have an ice pack, we bring home a puff pastry/millefeuille from the refrigerator/freezer case. (We really only have Pepperidge Farm here in the states, and they have, like, 10 varieties in the grocery store!) We also buy a few packages of Herbs de Provence and packages of Bouquet Garni from the supermarche...

Gosh, what else? Supermarche shopping is our favorite! We bring back what we can carry!

We also bring back soaps from the marches! People love gifts of little soaps!

[LindaK]

okay, okay...I'll go to BHV. too many folks here whose taste I respect are telling me so--you wouldn't lead me astray.

hazardnc, I'm also a sucker for lovely packaging. And since I can't afford Tiffany, maybe Laduree can be my luxury fix for the trip. It will contast nicely with the cat food when I go through customs!

How did I forget Monoprix? I always come home with a stock of their little boxes of Lentilles de Puy.

All these specialty store names/addresses sound wonderful, definitely worthy of a detour with a nearby lunch, wine bar, or patisserie break afterwards. And specific ideas like oils, pottery, puff pastry (never would have thought of that one!) are helpful too. I look back at all the shopping I HAVEN'T done in Paris, I think I will be making up for lost time on this trip.

[chezcherie]

How did I forget Monoprix? I always come home with a stock of their little boxes of Lentilles de Puy.

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and fleur de sel....for SO much cheaper than fauchon or wherever...my mistake was "bonding" with the cashier, who looked puzzled at the vast amount of salt i was purchasing..."jolie cadeaux", i explained, at which her expression turned from puzzled to sour...some friend, bringing SALT home as gifts. (the giftees, however, were thrilled!)

bon voyage.

[Ptipois]

hazardnc, I'm also a sucker for lovely packaging. And since I can't afford Tiffany, maybe Laduree can be my luxury fix for the trip.  It will contast nicely with the cat food when I go through customs!

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Since you're mentioning packaging, I remember something that should please you. Le Diptyque is a forty-year-old, very Parisian perfume company that has one shop in boulevard Saint-Germain (left-hand sidewalk, walking from place Maubert and métro Maubert-Mutualité to the Institut du monde arabe and the river) and recently has begun to sell at other locations in Paris (grands magasins, deco shops). They were the first to launch a line of unisex perfumes and fragrances in the 1960's, with a unique, black-on-white, hand-sketched design. They're still carrying on with a collection of about thirty fragrances, all very original and high quality. They also manufacture the nicest fragrant candles you can find, plus a few soaps and a very rare toilet vinegar. Not much related to cooking but Le Diptyque is well worth a visit. They, and L'Artisan Parfumeur, are the only perfume makers I need. Le Diptyque has wonderful gift packaging, overlapping silk papers of different shades.

[John Talbott]

How did I forget Monoprix? I always come home with a stock of their little boxes of Lentilles de Puy.

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and fleur de sel

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A caution, not all Monoprix's are equal. My local one often doesn't carry all the good stuff mentioned above so I get it at the one near Galeries L on Caumartin.

And add me to the BHV fans, indeed I love the basement hustle-bustle and the garagy cafe (OT but the Willy Ronis show across the street at the HV has long lines so go early or late).