Paris Restaurant Recommendations - 2008

[Jeff L]

My wife and I are planning a trip to France to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. I have been several times before but she has not. So far, I know the approximate dates will be Oct 3rd thru Oct. 11th. I also know that while in Paris we will stay in the beautiful Chateaux and Hotels du France 3 star hotel called Hotel Eber Monceau. I've stayed here previously, although some years ago, and still think of the place fondly.

I am not particularly up on the sights and new e-gullet recommended restaurants to try. Hotel is located in the 17th Arrondissement at rue Léon Jost 75017.

I do remember a spectacular restaurant near the Pantheon in the Montmarte area. It was the best meal I've had in all of Europe. I made the acquaintence of the house owner who was dressed as a bus person. Unbeknownst to me, she was in reality the first female member of the famed Cordon Blue!

If anyone knows of this place, please let me know the name and location. I am also interested in hearing form those familiar with other great restaurants/bistros in the area, although we will travel for a great meal. Also, some help is requested in terms of worthwhile sightseeing.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jeff L from Philadelphia

[Ptipois]

I do remember a spectacular restaurant near the Pantheon in the Montmarte area. It was the best meal I've had in all of Europe. I made the acquaintence of the house owner who was dressed as a bus person. Unbeknownst to me, she was in reality the first female member of the famed Cordon Blue!

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Could you be more specific? The Panthéon is miles away from the Montmartre area and across the river. Besides there's the rue Montmartre area, between Les Halles and Le Louvre, and the Montmartre area, further up North, on the Montmartre hill. What you're describing reminds me of Chez La Vieille, rue Bailleul, which is really in the rue Montmartre area.

[John Talbott]

If anyone knows of this place, please let me know the name and location. I am also interested in hearing form those familiar with other great restaurants/bistros in the area, although we will travel for a great meal. Also, some help is requested in terms of worthwhile sightseeing.

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Several items:

Answering Ptipois's point will help us zero-in on the resto.

Bux is usually the person to point out that a little searching on the Forum will uncover the new bistrots and help you decide where to go. In addition, tomorrow, Figaroscope, if true to tradition, will publish a list (with numbers) of the best new places of 2005, and since you have time, the first two weeks of September, many other news-sources will write up the places that open over the summer.

Finally, I urge you not to be limited by where your hotel is. You're a few blocks from 2 major Metro lines and can be anywhere in a half-hour. Right now the interesting new places are opening in the relatively low-priced areas such as the 11th and 15th, etc.

As to sightseeing, invest in the 2005 Paris Green Guide and go dipping - one person's idea of sightseeing is not another's - there are too many museums, monuments and walking tours to choose from - also check prior threads for info on things like the Holocaust Museum, although since we're dedicated to food here you may do better elsewhere - eg Bonjour Paris, ParisParler, Paris Notes and the city's Tourist Office.

[Jeff L]

Could you be more specific? The Panthéon is miles away from the Montmartre area and across the river. Besides there's the rue Montmartre area, between Les Halles and Le Louvre, and the Montmartre area, further up North, on the Montmartre hill. What you're describing reminds me of Chez La Vieille, rue Bailleul, which is really in the rue Montmartre area.

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Sorry, it's been 10 years. I know it was near the Pantheon for sure, confused about Montmarte obviously. Walking by her place I noticed many people coming in and out with happy faces. It seemed a really lively and fun spot and I decided after my tour to have dinner there.

Once inside and chatting with the owner, she asked me how "I found the house" I told her purely by happenstance. I mentioned the happy faces of people leaving her place and she immediately proceeded to provide me with personal service as if adopting an American (with poor at best French speaking) who never ate French food before. She even brought out her special olive oil from the south of france for me to use on my salad.

I feel confidant that I could find the place again in October, but it would be nice to know its name ahead of time.

To John Talbott: Thanks for your response. I know about the train lines near my hotel and I plan to make full use of them. I think I mentioned in my post we would travel. Thanks for your recommendations about the sights and you are correct, so many places to see and so many concepts of what is interesting and fun to see.

I will certainly look for the list of restaurants you mentioned, thanks again!

Edited by John Talbott (with permission of Jeff L) to fix Quote start.

Edited June 28, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

Could you be more specific? The Panthéon is miles away from the Montmartre area and across the river. Besides there's the rue Montmartre area, between Les Halles and Le Louvre, and the Montmartre area, further up North, on the Montmartre hill. What you're describing reminds me of Chez La Vieille, rue Bailleul, which is really in the rue Montmartre area.

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Sorry, it's been 10 years. I know it was near the Pantheon for sure, confused about Montmarte obviously.

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A couple of thoughts:

Do you mean Montparnasse?

Do any of these names ring a bell: Les Fontaines, l'Estrapade, Balzar?

Finally, have you tried "looking" around the Pantheon via the Pages Jaune site?

[follonica2]

My money is on Les Fontaines.

[Jeff L]

My money is on Les Fontaines.

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Do you know the address by chance?

[Bux]

. . . .

Bux is usually the person to point out that a little searching on the Forum . . . .

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I also have a tendency to point out that Parisian restaurants live under a microscope. There may be no city on earth whose restaurants are as often reviewed as those in Paris. What's more, they are reviewed not only in French for local diners, but probably more often than any other city in other languages in periodicals and guide books as well. It's a rare tourist with an interest in food who arrives in Paris without loads of information.

There may be many cities in the world where the question of where to eat will bring similar lists of places from many people, or where six out of ten suggestions will apear on 90% of the lists provided. In Paris, once you get beyond a list of the two and three star Michelin places, everyone's list may be different. I don't think you'll find many who will arrange the two and three star places in the same order, or agree on which restaurants in that list are over, or under, rated.

As for searching in the forum for other threads on Paris, I will add that reading reports written soon after a member's eaten in the restaurant is going to be more useful than waiting for responses about past meals. Opinions of where to eat, when there are so many choices, are apt to be meaningless unless you know the person's tastes. Am I posting true to form, John?

Les Fontaines, 9 r Soufflot -- almost in front of the Pantheon, between the Pantheon and the Jardin du Luxembourg.

[Bux]

A reminder -- http://www.pagesjaunes.fr -- for finding addresses in Paris.

[Jeff L]

. . . .

Bux is usually the person to point out that a little searching on the Forum . . . .

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I also have a tendency to point out that Parisian restaurants live under a microscope. There may be no city on earth whose restaurants are as often reviewed as those in Paris. What's more, they are reviewed not only in French for local diners, but probably more often than any other city in other languages in periodicals and guide books as well. It's a rare tourist with an interest in food who arrives in Paris without loads of information.

There may be many cities in the world where the question of where to eat will bring similar lists of places from many people, or where six out of ten suggestions will apear on 90% of the lists provided. In Paris, once you get beyond a list of the two and three star Michelin places, everyone's list may be different. I don't think you'll find many who will arrange the two and three star places in the same order, or agree on which restaurants in that list are over, or under, rated.

As for searching in the forum for other threads on Paris, I will add that reading reports written soon after a member's eaten in the restaurant is going to be more useful than waiting for responses about past meals. Opinions of where to eat, when there are so many choices, are apt to be meaningless unless you know the person's tastes. Am I posting true to form, John?

Les Fontaines, 9 r Soufflot -- almost in front of the Pantheon, between the Pantheon and the Jardin du Luxembourg.

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Bux, many thanks for your comments. I quite agree with you about reading posters comments immediately after their meals. I will start combing through the various threads here in France.

Obviously, it's a big time celebration for us particularly since my wife has never been to Paris before and I want to be as thorough as possible and try to plan well for a limited stay of about 8 or 9 days.

Thanks also for the address to Les Fountaines. Just curious, if it is the same place, do you enjoy it?

One thing that strikes me about the Pennsylvania, NJ and NY forum is the consistantly spot on recommendations for cuisine of all types. I used to rely mainly on Zagat but now have my fellow E-Gulleteers to count on.

Jeff L

[John Talbott]

Thanks also for the address to Les Fountaines. Just curious, if it is the same place, do you enjoy it?

Jeff L

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Ah, you would have to ask. Well, not so long ago this was posted by Marcus:

Les Fontaines, unfortunately, declined significantly since it was sold, now at least 5-8 years ago.

I have eaten there as recently as 2 years ago and was not impressed either.

But hey, I had no fond memories I could call on.

And Bux, you're right on.

[Ptipois]

Les Fontaines used to be one of the best bistrots in the cinquième. Since Mr. Lacipière is no longer there, the place is not what it used to be.

I still doubt the place mentioned by Jeff L. is Les Fontaines. The description doesn't really fit.

More questions: did the place look more like a cornerstreet café than a restaurant? (There was absolutely no way to guess the food was so good at Les Fontaines if you hadn't been introduced to the place somehow.) Was it really crowded at lunch & dinner hours? Was it on the righthand sidewalk walking up a wide, steep, straight street with the Panthéon facing you? (Can't possibly miss that huge saint-honoré cake.)

Edited June 28, 2005 by Ptipois (log)

[Jeff L]

Les Fontaines used to be one of the best bistrots in the cinquième. Since Mr. Lacipière is no longer there, the place is not what it used to be.

I still doubt the place mentioned by Jeff L. is Les Fontaines. The description doesn't really fit.

More questions: did the place look more like a cornerstreet café than a restaurant? (There was absolutely no way to guess the food was so good at Les Fontaines if you hadn't been introduced to the place somehow.) Was it really crowded at lunch & dinner hours? Was it on the righthand sidewalk walking up a wide, steep, straight street with the Panthéon facing you? (Can't possibly miss that huge saint-honoré cake.)

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Ptipois:

I think you are right, about Les Fountaines, I would remember this name. I do indeed remember this place being on the LEFT side of the street walking up toward the Pantheon. It had a bistrot like feel to it, casually dressed patrons and plenty of them. Quite a lively place, tho not as busy the one time I went for lunch.

Hope this helps, although I am sure to remember how to get back once in Paris!

Jeff

[Ptipois]

I think you are right, about Les Fountaines, I would remember this name. I do indeed remember this place being on the LEFT side of the street walking up toward the Pantheon. It had a bistrot like feel to it, casually dressed patrons and plenty of them. Quite a lively place, tho not as busy the one time I went for lunch.

Hope this helps, although I am sure to remember how to get back once in Paris!

Jeff

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Aha. We're getting a little closer.

Les Fontaines' particularity is that it didn't have a bistrot-like feel to it, so you couldn't guess that you'd be served such good bistrot fare there. Now the décor is just as dull, but the food is no longer remarkable, which is why I use the past tense.

There's only two straight streets offering a direct view upward on the Panthéon. Rue Soufflot, which is more like a short, wide avenue with a triumphal view of the monument uphill. Now there are a couple of large cafés on the left side of that street but nothing resembling a bistrot or restaurant. The second street is rue des Carmes, starting from place Maubert not far from the Seine. There are a few neighborhood restaurants on the left side of the street, much more bistrot-like than Les Fontaines, but I have never been to any of them. Your bistrot may well be one of them. Is the street you're thinking of beginning at the Jardin du Luxembourg or at boulevard Saint-Germain ?

Edited June 28, 2005 by Ptipois (log)

[Jeff L]

I think you are right, about Les Fountaines, I would remember this name. I do indeed remember this place being on the LEFT side of the street walking up toward the Pantheon. It had a bistrot like feel to it, casually dressed patrons and plenty of them. Quite a lively place, tho not as busy the one time I went for lunch.

Hope this helps, although I am sure to remember how to get back once in Paris!

Jeff

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Aha. We're getting a little closer.

Les Fontaines' particularity is that it didn't have a bistrot-like feel to it, so you couldn't guess that you'd be served such good bistrot fare there. Now the décor is just as dull, but the food is no longer remarkable, which is why I use the past tense.

There's only two straight streets offering a direct view upward on the Panthéon. Rue Soufflot, which is more like a short, wide avenue with a triumphal view of the monument uphill. Now there are a couple of large cafés on the left side of that street but nothing resembling a bistrot or restaurant. The second street is rue des Carmes, starting from place Maubert not far from the Seine. There are a few neighborhood restaurants on the left side of the street, much more bistrot-like than Les Fontaines, but I have never been to any of them. Your bistrot may well be one of them. Is the street you're thinking of beginning at the Jardin du Luxembourg or at boulevard Saint-Germain ?

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Possibly, although it has been quite a long time since being there and I'm just not sure. I might remember the name of the place, is there a way to locate restaurants/bistrots on that street?

[Ptipois]

Possibly, although it has been quite a long time since being there and I'm just not sure. I might remember the name of the place, is there a way to locate restaurants/bistrots on that street?

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The lower part of rue des Carmes (left side) is occupied by a big police building, so no bistrot there. Then as you walk up towards the Panthéon, there are some bistrots in the middle-upper part of the street. I couldn't locate one from home using the Net (and there's a heatwave here so I don't go out), so I guess I won't spare you the pleasure of looking for it once you're in Paris.

When you do find it, let us know...

[John Talbott]

is there a way to locate restaurants/bistrots on that street?

Go to the Website Bux and I gave the link to and "look around".

[Jeff L]

is there a way to locate restaurants/bistrots on that street?

Go to the Website Bux and I gave the link to and "look around".

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I just noticed the union jack on the site now for English. Thanks, I will try again. In either case, I will post my results within the next hour or so or in the 3 months time!!

[Ptipois]

I just walked up the rue des Carmes. There's only one bistrot there, called Le Berthoud. I do not think this is the place. Your bistrot may be, actually, anywhere in the area surrounding the Panthéon. Les Pages Jaunes is a great search tool, but more effective, I'm afraid, if you know the name of the place.

[Jeff L]

I just walked up the rue des Carmes. There's only one bistrot there, called Le Berthoud. I do not think this is the place. Your bistrot may be, actually, anywhere in the area surrounding the Panthéon. Les Pages Jaunes is a great search tool, but more effective, I'm afraid, if you know the name of the place.

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After searching through pages jaunes, I stumbled upon 2 restaurants on rue de Carnes, with one that looks vaguely familiar to me. The first one is located at 32 rue de Carnes and is called La Paillotte d'Or . This is not familiar to me but the second just next door at 30 rue de Carnes is called Coin de Rue and looks somewhat familiar to me. I kind of remember the wide window and it being in the middle of the block. Now if I can confirm there is a woman chef/owner, looks like I've found it.

Does anyone know about this place Coin de Rue??

[jBo]

I just came back from France a couple weeks ago (a trip thru school), and I absolutely loved Au Pied de Cachon 6. rue Coquilliere.

The soupe a l'oignon gratinee and the crepes flambees au Grand Marnier were to die for. I would go back just for that! Oh, the Cocktail Maison is yummy too (Kir with a sugared rim).

It's open 24hrs and is in Les Halles, across the street from the Metro Stop (Line 4, I believe). For those of us who have limited French-speaking abilities, the menu has english translation. Yeah!

Bon Appetit!

[BigboyDan]

Here a 75005 list of places that I like:

(Of course, you can enquire here, Hotel Pantheon,

Restaurant Les Bouchons de François Clerc - French/Bistro

12, rue de l’Hôtel-Colbert

75005 Paris 01 43 54 15 34

ChantAirelle - French/Auvergnat/Bistro

17, rue Laplace

75005 Paris 01 46 33 18 59

Moissonnier - French/Lyonnais/Bistro

28, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard

75005 Paris 01 43 29 87 65

Rôtisserie du Beaujolais - French/Bistro

19, quai de la Tournelle

75005 Paris 01 43 54 17 47

Quai V - French/Contemporary

25, rue de la Tournelle

75005 Paris 01 43 54 05 17

Chef Patrick Goimbault

Le Cosi

9 rue Cujas 75005 Paris

Tel + 33 1 43 29 20 20

(Corsican cuisine)

Le Mauzac

7 rue de l'Abbé de l'Epée 75005 Paris

Tel + 33 1 46 33 75 22

(cuisine typical of the southwest of France)

Le Balzar (Brasserie Flo)

49 rue des Ecoles 75005 Paris

Tel +33 1 43 54 13 67

(traditional French cuisine)

Mavromatis

42 rue Daubenton 75005 Paris

T tel : 01 43 31 17 17

(high-quality Greek cuisine)

L'AOC

14 rue des Fossés Saint Jacques 75005 Paris

Tel +33 1 43 54 22 52

(rotisserie, French cuisine, excellent meat and rice pudding to die for)

Le Colbeh

22 rue Mouffetard 75005 Paris

Tel +33 143 37 96 32

(high-quality Iranian cuisine)

Edited July 9, 2005 by BigboyDan (log)

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Although I visit Paris several times a year and consume many liters of wine at home and away, the only thing I am sure about either restaurants or wine is that an enormous amount of the pleasure quotient depends on the moment. I really wouldn't encourage you to try to find the restaurant you were so taken with some 10 years ago, but rather to follow your intuition and that of your wife and book a wonderful week of new discoveries. With your enthusiasm and with everything being new to her, you will undoubtedly have a superlative time. And...read everything on this forum. Enjoy!

[PaulaJK]

I've reviewed John Talbot's marvelous summaries and

read the posts re: recent travels. I'm at the point of

more is less re: ideas of where to dine. We want to

try places new to us. What a temptation to revisit

pleasurable experiences!!

We need 4 lunch and 5 dinner venues, the former lighter

and most likely a bistro type establishment.

For Lunch we were thinking of

Chez Savy, La Braisiere, Train Bleu and ??

For dinner, Les Ormes .Dominique Bouchet, The Bristol,

and ? ?

Would Le Regalade be better for L or D?

Am I correct that Le Comptoir is Moroccan influenced?

Has anyone tried C'amelot, Astier, la Chamarre or

Le Temps au Temps?

Thanks

Edited to mention that we have a Sat & Sun in these days which

is making choosing more difficult.

Edited September 18, 2005 by PaulaJK (log)

[Carlsbad]

I don't think you can go wrong with your three dinner choices. Unless you are very big eaters, I would suggest you go very light on lunches. Even bistros serve a decent amount of food at lunch.

We really liked Les Ormes on our recent trip. For Sunday, you might consider Mon Vieil Ami. We liked it so much when we tried it on Sunday, we went back a week later.

Edited September 18, 2005 by Carlsbad (log)