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paul o' vendange

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  1. paul o' vendange

    Wine books

    Yeah! On it! Gamay - yes, me too. Such a pretty grape, that wonderful crushed violet quality. I tend to like fleurie best, but there are so many. It’s warming that Jacques Pépin grew up steeped in it, loves it so much. IIRC his dad used to draw carafes from a barrel in the cellar below, for the modest restaurant trade his mom ran upstairs.
  2. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Awesome. I do love Riesling - that washed stone screaming fresh minerality, gentle attack and balance of acid and residual sugar...absolutely love good Riesling, just haven’t had enough to be able to sort through the German system (a note, generally not a fan of Alsatian wines - significantly prefer Mosel Rieslings). My wife worked for Odessa Piper, when she still owned L’Etoile. It was her husband Terry Thiese who really got me turned on to Riesling, in no small measure through his book. His reverence for the purity of expression found in good Riesling rang my bell, and I was o
  3. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Thanks Weinoo! I’d have preferred just a hair less but I’m happy, my wife and child mawed and Murph the mutt was extremely surly he didn’t get but a tiny bit. All good signs. I sectioned off both the legs and breasts off at the same time after just a 20 minute par-roast and then decided to change up and make an integral sauce (rather than just a pan jus), so....yeah, I do that. 👩‍🍳🤗 Finishing up the legs were good, but too tough, not badly. I always prefer braising them. Man, wish I could get whole moulard! FWIW, I love D’Artagnan.
  4. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Yumm. Riesling hunter. I didn’t say a good one. French vocabulary is decent but I am mad for good Riesling. Descriptors?
  5. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Roast Muscovy (really enjoyed simple stuffing after Jacques Maximin), kale tossed with the liver rose as tapenade and sherry vinegar, fresh pappardelle. Integral sauce. Spanish garnacha.
  6. Hope you like it! Universal French translator: The Gallic Shrug:
  7. +1. I have a few by Paula and they are fantastic. Guerard - what a nut (in a good way. He and Bocuse in drag screwing around with the rest of the nouvelle crew. Cultural artifact!). I have his Cuisine Minceur and Cuisine Gourmande. Extraordinary how he used all his skill to devise a spa cuisine that didn’t suck. Vegetable purées as sauce thickeners in lieu of flour, butter, cream, etc. Truly ahead of his time, as far as I’ve been able to tell. Never cooked from it but hope to. Verge - love him! His fruit and vegetable books are gems and his « Entertai
  8. I think they are good enough books respecting their core emphasis, which is the French curriculum that has been in place with Ferrandi for a century. Nothing really bad to say for what they offer but eventually, if you’re like me, there are a million “fundamentals” books - my deepest appreciation, mon Cher Jacques; L’Institut Bocuse, Ducasse, many others that cover similar fundamentals in similar ways. It’s easy, at least for me, to love shelf space taken up with books, even if they cover very similar ground. FCI takes the Ferrandi approach (you will see it in Jacques Pepin’s ear
  9. Wow. Is that Daniel Leader by any chance? Do I have the right baker?
  10. Thanks David, I’d forgotten that. I’ll never forget the touching episode of - can’t remember which show, but Tony Bourdain on a Scottish estate hunting red deer. That, and the equally touching episode where he spends time more or less stunned to dine on hare with M. Bocuse, then ventures out for an informal morning bird hunt with Chef and his almost comically hapless pup. I know these are somewhere in play.
  11. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Does anyone who watches the show remember Casey’s elimination on the chicken feet? Pretty disastrous service for everyone, not their best outing...
  12. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Wow, crazy provenance, weinoo. Pic below - these now are the top three of the holy of holies, the bedside stack. The reading light shows who sits atop all. I just flipped to her en vessie and love the description - « A good butcher may be able to find you a pig’s bladder. You could also try to cook the chicken sous-vide. » !!! Arguable, but pithy: « there is nothing new in cuisine » - Andre Soltner (paraphrased). I just saw in Point his simple hommage to Mere Brazier, p. 165. To be quite honest though I know the recipes in Point (or Escoffier, for that matter, or
  13. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Great, thanks weinoo. I’ll have to try them. I haven’t seen the recipe yet but I’m guessing her recipe is the later named « poulet en vessie, » right? Can’t recall if I saw it first in Bocuse or Point (or maybe in one of the masterful twin biographies of poor Chef L’Oiseau?), but must do the dish at least once. Maybe along with Chef Bocusés Soupe Giscard D’Estaing? Go fund me campaign started!🙏 It’s a shame so few know just how tremendously important she was. Started in last night. Thanks again for jogging my memory. With truffled thoughts .... I think
  14. paul o' vendange

    Dinner 2021

    Need the Wow emoticon as well. Wonderful plate, weinoo. I’d never heard of Regalis before coming across a post of yours somewhere, so thanks for the resource. I don’t dive in to truffles mostly because I’ve not had occasion to use them all up. Do you store yours at all? While here, looking for decent preserved truffles. And peelings. Can’t recall if Regalis carries these but if any source comes to mind, I’d love to know of them. Also while here - I hope this isn’t OT, be glad to take it elsewhere - but anyone living in the Midwest, where do you go for y
  15. Awesome! My post got zapped but suffice it to say you inspired me to dig up an old “baguette de tradition” recipe, wish I could remember where I got it but it’s been many years. Straight dough, 3 hours bulk, proof, bake. 20 g w/w flour 20 g dark rye flour 360 g bread flour 275 g ice water (I don’t know why. I used room temp. Maybe because it was originally machine mixed? No idea. I slapped and folded). 200 g 100% hydration levain (I think the recipe calls for discard, but in this case I used peak levain) ¼ tsp instant yeast
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