eG Foodblog: Dave the Cook - Beachcraft

[Dave the Cook]

Today was also Andy's birthday. I was sort of hoping for more fish, but the tradition is that the Birthday Person gets to choose, and Andy wanted short ribs. Luckily, this is a specialty of mine. Of course, I've never made them for ten, and never in such a confused oven.

We cleaned the local Publix out of short ribs, and brought them back, along with Andy's choice of vegetable (asparagus) and starch (baking potatoes, to be made into the twice-baked version). Also, a last-minute pound of mushrooms for sauteeing.

Back at the house, we washed and dried the potatoes, forked them and dressed them with EVOO and salt. We put them into the oven, which was set, with hope, at 425 F.

Meanwhile, I made up a rub of ancho, salt, black pepper, smoked paprika, cayenne and oregano. I applied it to the trimmed short ribs and let them sit while the potatoes baked. Then I turned down the oven to 300 (hoping that it was really about 275), and put the ribs in for 30 minutes.

Then I turned my attention to the asparagus, which Andy, after some training, managed to accomplish. I think there are two good ways to cook asparagus: roasted in an oven or a closed grill, or steamed. I find boiling and stir-frying too haphazard. The problem was that I had 2-1/2 pounds of asparagus, and not a steamer -- not even a collapsible basket -- in sight. This is a job for aluminum foil -- and an electric skillet:

Seven minutes works every time.

I flipped the ribs every thirty minutes, roasting them a total of 2-1/2 hours. This formula: rub and dry, relatively low heat, yields a succulent, very beefy piece of meat. It's even better on the grill, using indirect heat. Like any low-slow method, the key is the collagen stall, but what's fun about a short rib is that you can do it by touch. Give it a poke every thirty minutes; after two hours, poke every 15 minutes. You'll get a very good feel for how the meat is doing, and you'll be able to tell when it's done, without the need for a thermometer.

I made a straighforward hollandaise (Andy's request, with a great deal of encouragement from Zak). We degreased the pan juices from the ribs, swirled in some homemade worcestershire, and reduced it slightly.

Alan and Kelsey scooped and stuffed the potatoes with cheddar and blue cheeses, along with a little milk and some green onion. They went into the oven as soon as the ribs came out. When they were heated through, shredded parmesan was added, and the whole mess went under the broiler to brown.

Andy's birthday dinner:

[Toliver]

Your make-shift asparagus steamer is genius.

Why, you could out-Alton Brown Alton Brown.

[Smithy]

But as often as not, the catch (or part of it) is declined by the charter customer. In these cases, the fish are often sold to a wholesale purveyor.

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The heathens!

I'm glad somebody gets to partake of the bounty, but...but...what are these people thinking, that they don't want their catch? Why bother going out?!

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Sometimes, the meaning is in the doing, no? How many times have you prepared something for a meal that wasn't lauded in proportion to the effort expended to produce it? You have to take you satisfaction from the craft of preparation, don't you? I believe that if you take a fish from the sea, it's your responsibility to make sure it's consumed -- if not by yourself, then by others. The mate on a recreational tour will often sell the remaindered fish to local restaurants. This nets (alomst always) him a few extra dollars, and provides some choice spots with excellent raw product. Otherwise, the surplus gets sold to a fish wholesaler. Sexton's, for instance, waits for the overcatch --as well as the haul from commercial boats, especially shrimp boats.

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Points well taken. Now that you explain it that way, it sounds like a good system. I was thinking more along the lines of the deer hunters who love to hunt and who bring home the kill, only to have it buried in the freezer because the spouse won't eat or cook the game. What a waste.

I am amazed, impressed and envious of the fish selection you have down there. Someone else commented on what we're missing in the way of fish, up here in the Midwest. Your photos really show it.

In case I don't get back before your blog closes, I'll thank you now. Well done, especially in the middle of vacation!

Oh, yeah - when you poke those spare ribs, are you unwrapping them first, or poking them foil and all? (Sorry for having to ask such a basic question.)

[MelissaH]

I am amazed, impressed and envious of the fish selection you have down there.  Someone else commented on what we're missing in the way of fish, up here in the Midwest.  Your photos really show it.

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It's not just the midwest. All the pictures of fish and other seafood made me really hungry for things I can't get in small-town central NY. Thanks for showing all the good food, and the creative ways to cook it.

MelissaH

[Dave the Cook]

Oh, yeah - when you poke those spare ribs, are you unwrapping them first, or poking them foil and all?  (Sorry for having to ask such a basic question.)

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Maybe the picture isn't very good in showing what's going on. They roast naked, so you invoke a direct poke.

[Dave the Cook]

Thanks, everyone, for your kind comments. We're about to drive back to Atlanta now. Once I'm back on line, I'll have a wrap-up.

[little ms foodie]

Dave your blog has been very enjoyable, can't wait to try a few new dishes you've done!

BTW if you haven't have time to try the El Diablo drink, make some. We tried it last night, yum!

[Smithy]

Oh, yeah - when you poke those spare ribs, are you unwrapping them first, or poking them foil and all?  (Sorry for having to ask such a basic question.)

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Maybe the picture isn't very good in showing what's going on. They roast naked, so you invoke a direct poke.

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Pardon, my stupidity was showing.

[Dave the Cook]

. . . .

BTW if you haven't have time to try the El Diablo drink, make some. We tried it last night, yum!

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I'm having one now, as a matter of fact, though I used Chambord. You're right -- it's very tasty. (Thanks, Sam!)

One of the very few disappointments of this last week was the family's indifference to the whole cocktail thing. Alan did latch onto the Campari -- turns out it's one of his favorites. By yesterday afternoon, he settled into a routine: he would come back from the pool, change, meander out to the balcony with whatever novel he was into, and prop his feet up. Out in the kitchen, we could hear him proclaim, "I am ready for my Campari and soda!"

Mom alternated between Bloody Marys and Tom Collinses (double the sugar and lemon).

Andy remains faithful to Corona (Light!) and a lime. At least he let me practice my muddling.

Peggy and I did have a good time with whiskey sours, though, and she devoured Killer Cocktails (based on her interest, I think Dave Wondrich will sell another copy). We started with Jim Beam (80 proof) bourbon, lemon juice and sugar (3:2:0.5), tried it with some miniatures of Wild Turkey 101, and a bottle of Wild Turkey Rye that I turned up at a local store. We varied the proportions and the whiskeys, and finally settled on:

1.5 ounces 101 proof rye

1.0 ounces lemon juice

1 t simple syrup

It makes a nice tall drink with soda or ginger ale by bumping the rye and sugar:

2.0 ounces rye

1.0 ounces lemon juice

2 t simple syrup

So that was fun, as was making booze-free pina coladas and chocolate-banana smoothies for the kids.

I also wish we could have taken greater advantage of the available seafood, but that's the compromise when you're dealing with a group like this. Alan, Caitie and I would have been happy to do nothing but finfish and shellfish all week, but not everyone shares that taste. A number of people have remarked on the variety, quantity and quality of the offereings. I'm told that this is partly a transportation thing. In a large port with a nearby airport like Miami, Houston or New Orleans, much of the catch goes from dock to plane, bound for other places. Because Destin has only a general aviation airport, and the nearest cities with decent airports (Panama City, Fort Walton and Pensacola) are low-end spokes atttached to distant hubs, a higher proportion of the haul stays in the area. Whatever the reason, I'm eager to go back as soon as I can.

Oh yeah -- we arrived home safely, and I got Zak and Caitie repacked and sent on their way. I unloaded the rest of the car, and set to making myself . . . barbecued shrimp. I'll post a picture later (it's not done yet), if anyone's interested.

Thanks for a great reception, everyone, and for sharing this time with me and my family.

[marlena spieler]

love your blog, thanks! a different world, though man if i were there i'd have bought up the okra! what a nice thing to do, go on vacation with your family, and what a nice family you have who wants to go off and do this!

question: homemade worcestershire sauce? ?

wow.

marlena

[Dave the Cook]

question: homemade worcestershire sauce? ?

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It's in Emeril's Real and Rustic. We had a short, related conversation about it here.

I might make some adjustments for persoanl taste the next time, but as written, it's great.

[Dave the Cook]

One other thing: I ran across Stewart's Ginger Beer in Florida. Very high burn rate -- recommended.

[patti]

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Nice ass.

[Dave the Cook]

Nice ass.

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Thank you. It's not mine, though.

One last picture -- barbecued shrimp, bachelor style: