Reading Terminal Market (Part 1)

[Bluehensfan]

What do they need at Reading Terminal Market?

A gelato place, somewhere to get a good burger (be it turkey, buffalo, or beef or whatever) to eat. A place that has more exotic tropical fruit. Maybe that and a private enclave for regular customers for busy times (think US Airways VIP lounge) like during the flower show.

Just kidding about that last one.

[JanMcBaker]

Now, a new game: What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should. I'm not talking about very esoteric or rare items, like ortolans. But basic foodstuffs.

Let's start with the most basic of basic foodstuffs: bread. My first nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should is a good kaiser roll, those crispy crust but light interior sandwich rolls. Forget about Metropolitan and LeBus, neither offer them. Likewise, nothing even close at Bieler's, the Pennsylvania Dutch bakery. Maybe that new Jewish style deli scheduled to open in June will offer them, along with some real lox (the salty, unsmoked kind, a.k.a. "belly"). Actually, it's hard to find a decent kaiser anywhere. Sometimes I find one that has an okay interior, but lacks the necessary thin, crackly exterior because they were put in plastic right out of the oven. Does Kaplan's New Model Bakery on North Third have them?

What's your nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should?

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A good Kaiser roll would be nice......ooohhhh-- and good onion rolls!! Ones that have onions inside the rolls, not just some scattered on top. I made some decent ones recently with frozen challah dough......but I digress. My original suggestion was a pommes frites stand. But I'll take a really good onion roll any day!

(Edited by me to correct my spelling of 'pommes frites.' And how lazy was I that I couldn't look up the spelling in the first place?! )

Edited April 28, 2006 by JanMcBaker (log)

[ellencho]

That is so true. Why is it that we can buy every ingredient for an amazing cheeseburger except for a quality kaiser roll?

I've always hoped someone at RTM would sell a nice assortment of petit fours. Hopefully Flying Monkey will fill that void.

[Bluehensfan]

Also the market (and the city of Philadelphia) could benefit from selling cupcakes like those served at Magnolia bakery in NYC (but maybe not as sickeningly sweet).

And, the market could really use a vendor that sells fresh (sorry not like Pearl's) grilled fish. I know the Thai place has great salmon but it's too bad one of the fish vendors could not grill up their catch for your lunchtime enjoyment.

[KatieLoeb]

And, the market could really use a vendor that sells fresh (sorry not like Pearl's) grilled fish. I know the Thai place has great salmon but it's too bad one of the fish vendors could not grill up their catch for your lunchtime enjoyment.

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Completely in agreement here. Pearl's food is really mediocre. The soups and oysters are very good, but the other stuff is just tired. A fresh fish vendor with grilling capabilities would be awesome.

I'd be pretty jazzed for a good Greek stand. There is really no outstanding Greek food to be had in this town since way back when Chef Theodore's closed. Estia is just too damned expensive and I don't need to pay those prices for the Greek comfort foods I crave like Avgolemono soup, Moussaka, a really good Gyro, a flaky spinach pie (and yes - I've had them from Kamal's Middle Eastern stand and they were just OK) or a really good Greek Salad with amazing tomatoes and cukes on it, lots of Kalamata olives and big honking chunks of feta cheese.

There was/(maybe still is?) a Greek joint at RTM but it just didn't float my boat at all. I think I got turned off because they made pizza too, and I want something like South Street Souvlaki with higher quality cooking.

[rlibkind]

I guess I wasn't explicit enough in the rules for my new game, What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should. Let's limit it to stuff you buy to cook/consume at home, not restaurant food, i.e., meals you eat away from home. Let's keep in mind that (at least in my idealized notion of what it should be) the market is more market than food court.

Another update, this time about those melons. Although still not great, it was much improved after spending overnight in the 'fridge. I had sampled it at room temperature.

Also an update on kaiser rolls: I happened to be on North Third today so I stopped by Kaplan's. Bought kaiser rolls which, alas, were packaged in plastic. Warmed one up in the toaster oven and it crisped up, but still not like it should have been.

Re: gelato. My initial thought was, who needs gelato when you've got Bassetts! Then again, there is gelato (for taking home, not on premises consumption); it's sold by the Fair Food Farmstand, and it comes from Capogiro.

[TarteTatin]

Good olive oil.

Not virgin.

In bulk.

Better wine selection by the glass than at the bar in RTM. I know, it wouldn't be the same if they went too fancy.

But for those of us that don't drink beer at all, we're stuck.

Fresh, LOCAL fish.

[rlibkind]

Fresh, LOCAL fish.

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Could you elucidate? What local commercial fish can't you find at the RTM? I'm hard pressed to think of any that aren't available in season.

A fair amount of the fish and shellfish available at the RTM fishmongers is local, or at least as local as you can get, i.e., Mid-Atlantic species primarily landed at NJ ports, but also Maryland: black bass, striped bass, butterfish, sea trout, whiting (silver hake), squid, tilefish, tuna, monkfish, flounder and fluke, bluefish, mackeral, porgies, shad, scallops, crab. Where these fish come from varies seasonally, but all come, at least part of the year, from fisheries based in NJ and Maryland.

[rlibkind]

Sam Consylman was out foraging this week, and Earl Livengood's got the goods -- or at least he still did when I left the market at 10 a.m. today.

The goods in question are morels. But not just any morels. Huge, pristine morels. Some as big as five or six inches high! To wit:

Purchasing these beauties is not for the weak of heart or poor of wallet. Earl – following the dictim of a former Philadelphia food retailer, Joel Merachek, who proclaimed one would never go broke overcharging the American public – requires $85 of your hard-earned cash for the right to purchase one pound of these. Here's a photo of what I spent $37 for:

The morels were a mere $17; the lilacs (two bunches) were $20; they were $15 a bunch if you opted for the darker-colored, but less aromatic, French variety. Add in asparagus, romaine lettuce and fresh garlic with the leaves and I contributed $44 to Earl's cash flow today. That's as much I as usually spend on a heavy marketing trip at all the vendors!

Here's a photo of Sam:

He provided the morels as well as the poke available this week at Earl's. Whatever Sam finds in forest, field and riverbank that's good to eat he brings for sale at Earl's. He'll often be at the stand, especially Tuesdays at the South Street market and Thursdays at the Fairmount & 22nd market, both of which should start up for the season in a couple of weeks.

In other news, Flying Monkey Patisserie had a "soft" opening yesterday. Today for breakfast (though the proprietor said she really doesn't open until 10 a.m.) I opted for a slice of mint pound cake (I didn't think the green tea pound cake would go well with my cup of Tippy Yunan from the Tea Leaf stall). The mint and pound cake was an excellent flavor idea, and went well with the tea. For She Who Must Be Obeyed a bought a slice of chocolate cake which, strictly in the name of science, we will sample this evening.

[rlibkind]

Better wine selection by the glass than at the bar in RTM. I know, it wouldn't be the same if they went too fancy. But for those of us that don't drink beer at all, we're stuck.

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Do what at least one RTM protein purveyor does every morning at the Beer Garden: drink brandy !

[Bobby 2 Shakes]

Copper River King Salmon (in season)?

[KatieLoeb]

Let's limit it to stuff you buy to cook/consume at home, not restaurant food, i.e., meals you eat away from home. Let's keep in mind that (at least in my idealized notion of what it should be) the market is more market than food court.

I should have been clearer. I fully expected my idealized Greek stand to be my source for good olives, feta and kasseri cheeses, real Greek oregano, good orzo pasta, taramas, etc. It needs to be a store AND a place to get a good meal. Certainly 12th Street Cantina does that. Another example of a specialized merchant serving good ethnic food would not be a bad thing.

[rlibkind]

Copper River King Salmon (in season)?

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Timely question. Just a few hours ago (2 p.m. Alaska Daylight Time, 6 p.m. EDT) the Alaska Department of Fish & Game's Commercial Fisheries Division announced that the season will open May 15; duration has not been announced yet. In any event, Copper River Salmon is not always seen at the RTM. But King salmon of various provenances should start appearing in a few weeks, with sockeye to follow.

[Bobby 2 Shakes]

Copper River King Salmon (in season)?

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Timely question. Just a few hours ago (2 p.m. Alaska Daylight Time, 6 p.m. EDT) the Alaska Department of Fish & Game's Commercial Fisheries Division announced that the season will open May 15; duration has not been announced yet. In any event, Copper River Salmon is not always seen at the RTM. But King salmon of various provenances should start appearing in a few weeks, with sockeye to follow.

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Thanks, Bob. Every year I seem to just miss the season. Maybe this will be the year I get to try it.

[Bluehensfan]

I did sample a few items at the Flying Monkey myself on Saturday in addition to my usual sweets from the vendors at RTM. I don't want to sound the alarm or anything but was very much underwhelmed. The brownie we had was average...nothing to write home about, and some of the chile seasoning from the Santa Fe brownie mix must've snuck in. Also we tried a graham covered homemade marshmallow (they also had coconut covered ones) and was not very impressed. We thought about trying a cupcake but were not in the mood for vanilla or chocolate cream cheese cake. I was looking for a slice of the roobois cake to try but that's on the horizon. My one concern is that a lot of the baked goods have "different" flavorings such as green tea, mint, or chile that may not appeal to many people.

[rlibkind]

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I sampled the plain chocolate layer cake from Flying Monkey. If you're looking for the "decadent" style dense like a brick chocolate cake with barely any flour, or a "lava" cake or a cake that's more ganache than anything else, don't buy the Flying Monkey's version. But if you're looking for a chocolate cake that's cake, then you'll probably enjoy this example, as we did. SWMBO observed that the frosting was of a creamy European style and remindered her in taste of the Ice Cube chocolate candies, a German chocolate that derives its distinct flavor and texture by using coconut oil for the fat rather than cocoa butter or other food industry oils. The cake itself, she thought, tasted of Dutch process cocoa.

My taste in chocolate can't divine such subtleties, but I licked my platter clean.

[Bluehensfan]

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I sampled the plain chocolate layer cake from Flying Monkey. If you're looking for the "decadent" style dense like a brick chocolate cake with barely any flour, or a "lava" cake or a cake that's more ganache than anything else, don't buy the Flying Monkey's version. But if you're looking for a chocolate cake that's cake, then you'll probably enjoy this example, as we did. SWMBO observed that the frosting was of a creamy European style and remindered her in taste of the Ice Cube chocolate candies, a German chocolate that derives its distinct flavor and texture by using coconut oil for the fat rather than cocoa butter or other food industry oils. The cake itself, she thought, tasted of Dutch process cocoa.

My taste in chocolate can't divine such subtleties, but I licked my platter clean.

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It's good to know that they do made more traditional items...maybe this cake's worth a try!

Hopefully they will be broadening their selection soon, but seeing and tasting some of the offerings last week I am (trying to keep positive) cautiously optimistic?!?

[ellencho]

Perhaps it's because I arrived somewhat early (930) but all I saw at Flying Monkey was marshmallows, brownies, cupcakes and two types of cake. I was expecting to see all sorts of goodies but I was very disappointed. I did walk away with two brownies though. If they're noteworthy I'll mention something later.

[ellencho]

Ok, they were good brownies. Or should I say half brownie. It was so rich and chocolatey that I couldn't see myself eating an entire one even though deep inside I knew I wanted to anyway.

[rlibkind]

Perhaps it's because I arrived somewhat early (930) but all I saw at Flying Monkey was marshmallows, brownies, cupcakes and two types of cake. I was expecting to see all sorts of goodies but I was very disappointed.

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Rebecca says she officially opens at 10 a.m., which might account for the paucity of goodies in the cases at 9:30. I've suggested to her that, at least on Saturdays, she might want to consider officially opening when the market does at 8 a.m.

[Peter Johnson]

Pardon my ignorance, but...as a Philly to Seattle transplant who now shops at the Pike Place Market, I'm why are vendors not required to open when the RTM opens. Pike Place Market has an "authority" (it's really called that) that rules with a bit of an iron fist, and with a couple of exceptions (the union butcher's not open on Sunday), every vendor must be open by 8:00 and stay open until the market closes at 6:00 (5:00 on Sunday). Now, the fish guys are there at 4:30 a.m. to prep, get deliveries, and ship goodies off to you folks on the east coast, so if it's slow, they start packing things up at 5:30, but other than that, you _know_ things will be open.

Hope I'm not opening a can of worms, but I am curious!

Perhaps it's because I arrived somewhat early (930) but all I saw at Flying Monkey was marshmallows, brownies, cupcakes and two types of cake. I was expecting to see all sorts of goodies but I was very disappointed.

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Rebecca says she officially opens at 10 a.m., which might account for the paucity of goodies in the cases at 9:30. I've suggested to her that, at least on Saturdays, she might want to consider officially opening when the market does at 8 a.m.

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[rlibkind]

Since tomorrow is Kentucky Derby Day, it's time to make Mint Juleps. That's what I plant to do with a beautiful, big fragrant bunch I purchased for a buck from Benuel Kaufman.

Local asparagus everywhere! Price per bunch: Kaufman $3.49 (2 for $6); L. Halteman $2.69; Fair Food $4.

Just why do bell pepper prices bounce around so much? At Iovine's today, reds and greens and oranges 99-cents/pound, yellows $3.99. String beans a bargain at 79 cents. I picked up a large, heavy mango at Iovine's, which appears ready to eat, for $1.49:

Iovines had both English seedless cucumbers ($2.49 apiece, each weighing about a pound) and Persian seedless ($1.99/pound). The English cukes are tightly wrapped in plastic since their flimsy skin doesn't travel well; the smaller Persians, however, have a less delicate rind and come unwrapped. As far as preparing goes, treat them the same. Both make excellent Scandinavian-style quick pickles.

Baby fennel at Fair Food looked intriguing, though expensive at $4 for a small bunch. Had one of the fishmongers had fresh sardines available I would have made buccatini con sardi for dinner tonight. Soft shell crabs $5 apiece at Yi's, $3.99 at Wan's (since I didn't look at them side by side I can't affirm they are the same size, which could account for the price difference).

The excellent halibut steaks at John Yi went up a buck in price, to $10.99.

Pennsylvania General Store will be adding another line of chocolates: John & Kira's (formerly Jubilee Chocolates). PAGS also vends a luxurious line of Swiss style truffles made in Lancaster County by a genuine Swiss chocolate maker as well as the Philadelphia standard, Asher's. John & Kira's hasn't been regularly available at the RTM since Assouline Caviar closed shop there last year.

The RTM will be marketing the court area by Fair Food, Pennsylvania General Store, Blue Mountain Vineyar, Bee Natural and Metropolitan Bakery as the "Local Produce Corner" with special events on the first Thursday of each month. (The area is also home to Green Valley Dairy, cheese-maker every Saturday.) This month, on May 18 from 4 to 6 p.m., the free tasting event will be "Al Fresco Entertaining".

Also on the market calendar, the sixth annual Fireman's Pancake Breakfast this Saturday, May 6, from 8 a.m. to noon. All proceeds benefit the Hepatits 'C' Awareness Fund.

Old City Coffee will teach you the basics and then some of coffee roasting May 17 beginning at 4 p.m.

The Reading Terminals jazz band does its regular gig Friday, May 19, from 12 noon to 2 p.m.

[rlibkind]

Pardon my ignorance, but...as a Philly to Seattle transplant who now shops at the Pike Place Market, I'm why are vendors not required to open when the RTM opens.  Pike Place Market has an "authority" (it's really called that) that rules with a bit of an iron fist, and with a couple of exceptions (the union butcher's not open on Sunday), every vendor must be open by 8:00 and stay open until the market closes at 6:00 (5:00 on Sunday).  Now, the fish guys are there at 4:30 a.m. to prep, get deliveries, and ship goodies off to you folks on the east coast, so if it's slow, they start packing things up at 5:30, but other than that, you _know_ things will be open.

Hope I'm not opening a can of worms, but I am curious!

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It is a can of worms, and one that market management has been unable or unwilling to crack. The reason, for lack of a better word, is Tradition. Flying Monkey is the least of the culprits. Only a handful of merchants stay open until 6, and the Pennsylvania Dutch merchants aren't even there Mondays and Tuesdays, and quit by 3 p.m. Wednesdays and 5 p.m. other days.

I've found food store proprietors to have widely differing attitudes. There are others like those Pike Place fishmongers who appreciate the payback they can gain by working those hours. Iovine's is like that, and they'd be there on Sundays and until 10 or 11 at night if the RTM would let them, or they could convince other merchants to do the same so that all could benefit from the traffic. There are others who simply wish to do as well as they've always done, and have no need to expand/grow their business. It's like the Italian bakery or pizzeria that makes the same amount of dough a day, and when it's gone, it's gone. Some of the merchants at the RTM have the same attitude.

[rlibkind]

Yes, it's Strawberry Season! Here's what was offered at Tuesday's South & Passyunk market:

These came from Rineer Farms, one of two new vendors at the South St. market. The berries were priced at $3.75 a pint box. They tasted pretty good, but they are, after all, early season berries. Wait two weeks more and they'll be even more luscious. Here's a wider view of Rineer's stand:

They also offered scallions (green onions), spinach and, iirc, asparagus.

Another new vendor this year is Forrest Acres, specializing in pork and poultry. Proprietor Tom Forrest told me he usually butchers two hogs a week. The hogs are a Berkshire-Tamwood hybrid. The pork chops looked great, not at all lean with a healthy (or unhealthy, depending upon your point of view) dose of marbling. I plan to cook them tomorrow.

From Earl Livengood I purchased a single smallish tomato for $1.35 ($3.95/pound). Poke, asparagus, scallions and spinach was available.

A returning purveyor, Highfield Dairy, selling goat milk and cheese, along with some cow cheese, was also there today. Bob Pierson of Farm To City, in a brief e-mail announcing today's start of the season, wrote that "Big Sky Bakery will return in several weeks and Paul Hauser in July when his peaches are ripe ".

[KatieLoeb]

Bob:

What time are they out there on Tuesdays? I get out of work early enough to pop by there since it's but a few short blocks from home, but only if they're out later than 4PM.