Cheese (2005–2008)

[Chufi]

3 year Gouda - I've got to say this was the most difficult (hard) cheese I've ever cut.

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Well,not to re-open the 10 yr gouda debate, but that's why I think it is impossible.  The 3 yr vintage pictured here and the 5 yr vintage are a real challenge.  I really can't imagine it would be possible to cut a 10 yr gouda.

Just my humble opinion, and as I said, the opinion of my gouda importer.

On the other hand, I have mixed feelings about these vintage goudas.  The natural milk sugars get very concentrated as it ages, and the end product is often very sweet - butterscotchy, caramely flavors.  They are fine for nibbling in small quantities w/fruit or nuts, but they are so so overpowering, I cant' imagine doing anything else with them.

People love them or hate them.

I prefer the 18 mo goudas like Amsterdam Reserve or Robusto - a little sweet overtone, but complex and nutty.  I also love the medium aged goat goudas.

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An aged cheese like that is often called 'brokkelkaas' in The Netherlands which translates as 'crumblecheese'. It is, indeed, almost impossible to slice or cut. Just break it apart like parmesan. Or try to shave thin shavings of it with a cheese shaver like this

Then, take a slice of crusty bread, liberally spread with good unsalted butter, and pile with the cheeseshavings.

My favorite lunch!

[MelissaH]

Just break it apart like parmesan. Or try to shave thin shavings of it with a cheese shaver like this

Then, take a slice of crusty bread, liberally spread with good unsalted butter, and pile with the cheeseshavings.

My favorite lunch!

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Klary, you're making me very hungry!

We have a wheel we bought at the market in Amsterdam last January (Thanks, Klary! ) as one-year-old Gouda sitting, unopened, in our cheese fridge. (I think of it as a cheese fridge. My husband calls it the beer fridge. It was sold as a wine cooler. Whatever! ) We can't get aged Gouda locally, so we figured we'd make our own.

We also have some cheese wax, and the capability to sterilize cutting boards, knives, and the like.

Does anyone know whether it's possible to take our precious wheel of cheese, cut it open, and then rewax the cut area to let the rest age some more? Or once it's cut, is that it, game over, no more? We're aiming for something on the order of three years, but we're also getting impatient.

MelissaH

[gariotin]

The appetizer recipe is supposedly one that Martha Stewart came up with when she was just starting out as a caterer. I am not usually a fan of her food, but these are so simple and people love them. Take the smallest new potatos you can find, scrub them, and boil till tender. Cut in half. Put the cut side down as your base and use a melon scoop to make a bowl in the top. Fill with sour cream, or soft goat cheese, and sprinkle with roe and chopped dill. They are great at cocktail parties.

Melissa, I am no cheesemaker, but it seems like most larger old cheeses can be plugged to test the quality and texture with no ill effect. These are long metal tubes - you push into the side of a cheese, twist, and pull out a core sample. You smell and taste the most centered part of the sample, break off the rinded end, and push that back into the wheel, smoothing with your fingers to create a seal. You just want to keep out the air.

I know where to get these wholesale, but will look to see if there is a place to get these online.

That is a very interesting experiment and I would love to hear about the results.

[gariotin]

Klary, I like your suggestion of thin shavings w/unsalted butter on good bread. I will give it a try!

[MarketStEl]

Hey, just thought I'd let you all know that over in the "Ready to Eat" forum, another bunch of cheeseheads are discussing the joys of slummin' it.

Edited to add: Of course, I've also chimed in.

Edited February 3, 2007 by MarketStEl (log)

[gariotin]

Wow - this thread is the quietest it's been in a long time!

I've been asked to do a cheese class on Italian cheeses, featuring 6-8 to taste. I am curious to know which cheeses you all would consider should be in the list.

Besides the obvious classics (parm, gorg, mozz, pecorino), I want to throw in a couple of unexpected ones.

Ideas, please?

[Dianne]

Tallegio (sp?) The Swiss style one from Val D'Aosta.

[gariotin]

Yes, definitely tallegio - also real Fontina Val D'Aosta, which is a wonderful cheese.

[LindsayAnn]

Hey Gariotin - I def think you need a stinky cheese...this is how I became aware of my love for the stinky devils...Epoise? MMMMM

Also - how about a fresh goats cheese....chevre?

[rmockler]

Wow - this thread is the quietest it's been in a long time!

I've been asked to do a cheese class on Italian cheeses, featuring 6-8 to taste.  I am curious to know which cheeses you all would consider should be in the list.

Besides the obvious classics (parm, gorg, mozz, pecorino), I want to throw in a couple of unexpected ones. 

Ideas, please?

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We recently sampled a bunch of different Robiola from Piemonte -- quite different among them, but uniformly delicious. Milk varies -- all cow, cow+sheep, cow+sheep+goat, etc. Then had (and gleefully purchased) a Robiola from Lomdardy, a whole different animal like a Taleggio. All of these, by the way, at our Seattle Whole Foods, the new one of which (downtown) is doing a pretty good job by cheese, including minimizing the plastic wrap.

Enjoy.

[gariotin]

Yes - good suggestion - I love that Robiola Bosina - 2 milks, I think.

Lindsay - you know I love those stinkers too, but they are French. Anyone know of an Italian version of a washed rind smelly cheese? Guess I should break out my Slow Food book on Italian cheese tonite.

[eipi10]

Epoisses de Bourgogne is the transcendent cheese for me. I love the pungency, the yeastiness, and the thick, creamy mouthfeel. No cheese is this profound.

[Lisa1349]

Yes - good suggestion - I love that Robiola Bosina - 2 milks, I think.

Lindsay - you know I love those stinkers too, but they are French.  Anyone know of an Italian version of a washed rind smelly cheese?  Guess I should break out my Slow Food book on Italian cheese tonite.

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There's also robiola pineta, stinky with pine needles stuck to it. Also, Brescianella Stagionata, but it's more fruity than epoisses. I love it with strawberries. My favorite is La Tur, a wrinkly rind 3 milk blend. Aged and slightly runny on the outside, fresh on the inside. I have some in my fridge and will photograph when I enjoy it. You might also like to compare mountain reggiano with traditional. Burrata is also a nice study in gourmet mozzarella.

[eipi10]

Wow - this thread is the quietest it's been in a long time!

I've been asked to do a cheese class on Italian cheeses, featuring 6-8 to taste.  I am curious to know which cheeses you all would consider should be in the list.

Besides the obvious classics (parm, gorg, mozz, pecorino), I want to throw in a couple of unexpected ones. 

Ideas, please?

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Taleggio for sure, and two- or three-milk robiola also.

All these cheeses are so different, the class should be impressed.

[gariotin]

LOVE the La Tur - also the one they make that is 100% goat milk, called Bruschetta.

They are so soft and creamy, but sweetly complex.

Burata is so yummy - I always feel like my Doctor is shaking her finger at me when I eat it - seems even more sinful than most cheese.

[Lisa1349]

Did the Italian class happen? How did it go? What did you taste?

[MarketStEl]

I finally broke out those Swedish varieties Sunday night.

Photos and commentary to come sometime later today (Tuesday). It's been a long day and I really need to get some sleep--I have a major job interview tomorrow.

[gariotin]

No - we are still trying to nail down a date. I will keep you posted.

Good luck w/your job interview, Sandy - and let us know about the Swedish cheeses.

Did you use your lumpfish caviar yet?

[MarketStEl]

I think I have a good shot at the position, though it is a little weird to go through a group interview that includes both one of your colleagues and the person who hired you to your current job as part of the group of interviewers. (The position is in a different department within our division.)

And I forgot to break out the lumpfish caviar on Sunday. I didn't forget the cheese, though:

Top row, left to right: Pesto and Abruzze cheese spreads from DiBruno's. (The pesto spread is a new addition to their line of spreads, though the salesguy on 9th Street insisted they had been making this variety for years too.) Middle row, left to right: Kaukauna horseradish Cheddar and vegetable cream cheese spreads. On the cheese board, top to bottom: Herrgårdsost and Morfars Brännvins Ost ("Grandfather's Style Snapcheese").

Neither of these cheeses are terribly complex, but both are good eatin' for those who like semi-soft cheeses. I particluarly liked the "snapcheese" -- the aquavit added a pepperminty flavor to the cheese (though not too strong of one) that was interesting and complimented the cheese's own sharpness.

As for the Herrgård: Does it taste more like Cheddar or more like Gouda? "More like Cheddar," said my friend Gregory. "More like Gouda," said I.

It has a tang that I've encountered in really good farmhouse Cheddars, but otherwise, I'd say that this cheese is fairly mild and somewhat creamy, like a young Gouda, rather than somewhat salty and crumbly like aged Cheddar. But given that there were at least two opinions here, the one-word answer to the question above has to be "Yes."

All of the friends who were on hand for this tasting will be back again sooner or later, and I'll break out the caviar then and see if anyone feels a sudden urge to belt out "Dancing Queen."

[pdycaico]

Any cheese makers in this thread? I enjoy cheese and have started making it over the last year. So far I have created Mozzarella, cheddar, ricotta and romano.

[LindsayAnn]

Thought this would interest some of you (Especially you Garriotin)...Article is from the Chicago Tribune.

To La Mancha and beyond

The cheeses of Spain offer a tasty tour of the country

By Lisa Futterman

Special to the Tribune

The cheeses of Spain are getting plenty of applause these days, gracias in part to the wave of tapas and small plate restaurants that are all the rage, but also thanks to their greater availability and general deliciousness.

They also tend to be more reasonably priced than cheeses imported from their neighboring heavy hitters, France and Italy. More than 100 varieties of cheese exist in Spain today, each one more rustic and tasty than the next, each made from centuries-old recipes and traditions.

While many Spanish cheeses are made from high-fat, vitamin-packed sheep's milk, giving them richness and intensity, there are many cow, goat and mixed milk cheeses available. Cows are raised in the northern highlands of Spain, and goats graze in the hotter, dryer coastal areas.

Sniff around local cheese specialty shops for good variety and some unique finds. Much Spanish cheese is too fragile to travel overseas (especially fresh goat cheeses and young raw-milk cheeses), but more of the treasured wheels now can be found here.

What follows is a selection of distinctive Spanish cheeses (in order of mild to strong) that are easily obtained.. Depending on the occasion, a selection of three to five would make an impressive platter. Offer them after the meal, European-style, or as an easy but dramatic appetizer.

Do allow the cheeses to come to room temperature before serving (an hour set out on the platter will be perfect), and garnish your selection with simple breads or crackers (avoid flavored or overly salty choices), olives and perhaps a plate of Spanish Serrano ham or chorizo. Pour an earthy Rioja and a fruity albarino for a truly authentic fiesta.

Manchego

Spain's most popular variety, this simple table cheese from La Mancha, a high plateau in the center of the country, is a great start for those new to the bounty of Spain.

Approachable, nutty, firm and not too sharp, manchego (mahn-CHAY-go) is best served in wedgelike slices and is wonderful with membrillo, a delicious quince paste. Manchego's quality and characteristics vary widely; look for the words "Denomination of Origin" or "D.O.," which tells you it is the true Manchego from the proper region and breed of animal. All Manchego is easily identified by the basketweave pattern on the waxy (inedible) rind, an imprint of the mold in which it was pressed.

Mahon

Matt Parker of The Cheese Stands Alone recommends aged mahon (mah-HONE) to customers seeking a Manchego upgrade. Born on the sunny island of Minorca from the milk of happy cows, the raw milk anejo version is aged 10-12 months after being rubbed with paprika and olive oil, preserving and enhancing its distinctly tangy, complex flavors. Look for artisanally produced mahon as opposed to the rather bland and rubbery industrial stuff (look for a D.O. designation or the words "artisan" or "artesano").

Often served drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh herb sprigs.

Monte Enebro

This handmade goat's milk cheese from Catalonia wears an assertive gray rind made of ash and mold, and its paste is mellow, chalky and distinctly goaty. As Monte Enebro (MON-tay eh-NEB-roh) ages for one to two months, the edges become runny and more strongly flavored than the middle. Libby Bonahoom of Bouffe loves the "yogurty creaminess of this sophisticated but not overpowering" beauty, but it's not for the faint of heart.

Garrotxa

Also from Catalonia, this complex, nutty, full-flavored firm pasteurized goat cheese is a darling of many local restaurant cheese plates. The noticeably herbal flavors of garrotxa (gah-ROACH-ah) come from the goats' natural Mediterranean diet, while its appealing earthiness comes from the inedible rind. Daniel Sirko, the fromageur at Pastoral, offers a fine artisanal version. "We are finally discovering Spanish products that are of equal or greater interest than the cheeses of France and Italy," he noted.

Cabrales

A real blue-lover's blue, from Asturias on the northeast coast of Spain, cabrales (kah-BRAH-lace) mixed-milk cheese shows deep blue veins, a creamy texture and a fruity, complex, sharp, but not overly salty flavor.

Christopher Rees, cheese buyer at Fox and Obel, describes it as "gorgeous and piquant, not for the meek."

The mold is produced naturally, thriving in the walls of the ancient, chilly limestone caves in which it is aged.

This farmhouse cheese's production, like that of Mahon and Manchego, is firmly regulated by the D.O.

Other favorites

Sofia Solomon, cheese expert and owner of Tekla, Inc., a specialty foods importer, also recommends the smoky Basque Idiazabal; the oozy, gooey torta del Casar, and the queso de Murcia al vino, a.k.a. the wine-soaked "drunken goat."

Shopper's guide to terms worth knowing

Denomination of Origin (D.O.): A government designation indicating that the cheese (or wine or Serrano ham, for that matter) is being produced in the traditional manner of the region that it is from.

The D.O. protects the integrity of these time-honored products; look for the initials on the label to indicate quality and distinguish the cheese from its industrially produced cousins.

Membrillo: A traditional Spanish preserve made from quinces (an applelike fruit) and sugar, cooked to a firm paste. Traditionally served as an accompaniment to firm, salty cheese. Sold at many cheese counters by the ounce.

Paste: The edible center of the cheese beneath the rind. Can be described as anywhere from fresh and creamy to melting to firm, and even, in the case of blues, moldy and veiny.

Pasteurized milk: Milk that has been heated to high temperatures to prevent spoilage.

Raw milk: Milk that has not been pasteurized, which preserves the vitamins, healthful bacteria and enzymes that naturally occur and produces a more robust, flavorful, interesting cheese.

Rind: The outer coating of the cheese, which may form naturally or be manipulated.

Natural rinds are created by molds or by air-drying; human intervention comes in the form of brines, rubs, washes or wax.

[gariotin]

That's a great article, Lindsay - thanks for sharing.

One of the only cheeses that I just do not like is Cabrales. I have had it in perfect condition, but generally the stuff that shows up over here can be past its prime. I love blues, but just think it is too aggressive - sometimes downright mean and nasty. I prefer Valdeon or La Peral as a Spanish blue.

Otherwise, I just love Spanish cheeses - hard to pick a favorite.

[LindsayAnn]

That's a great article, Lindsay - thanks for sharing. 

One of the only cheeses that I just do not like is Cabrales.  I have had it in perfect condition, but generally the stuff that shows up over here can be past its prime.  I love blues, but just think it is too aggressive - sometimes downright mean and nasty.  I prefer Valdeon or La Peral as a Spanish blue.

Otherwise, I just love Spanish cheeses - hard to pick a favorite.

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I am not even sure if I have had Cabrales. I try/buy so many cheeses I don't know the name of most - UNLESS they are on my list of favorites.

My favorite blue is Niels Yard Stilton...its expensive but I always have some in my fridge. I am willing to spend money (even a lot) on good food....especially good cheese.

Based on my liking of Neils Yard Stilton Blue...anyone have any recommendation for me on any other particular blues that you think I might like? I am always looking for a new favorite to add to my list....

[GTO]

My favorite blue is Niels Yard Stilton...its expensive but I always have some in my fridge. I am willing to spend money (even a lot) on good food....especially good cheese.

Based on my liking of Neils Yard Stilton Blue...anyone have any recommendation for me on any other particular blues that you think I might like? I am always looking for a new favorite to add to my list....

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Those are my thoughts EXACTLY.

I think I mentioned it earlier but if you haven't as of yet, you should give Shropshire Blue a try. It's a gorgeous orange colour and tastes like a sharp Stilton. ALmost like a Cheddar-Stilton hybrid.

[Dave Hatfield]

My favorite blue is Niels Yard Stilton...its expensive but I always have some in my fridge. I am willing to spend money (even a lot) on good food....especially good cheese.

Based on my liking of Neils Yard Stilton Blue...anyone have any recommendation for me on any other particular blues that you think I might like? I am always looking for a new favorite to add to my list....

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Those are my thoughts EXACTLY.

I think I mentioned it earlier but if you haven't as of yet, you should give Shropshire Blue a try. It's a gorgeous orange colour and tastes like a sharp Stilton. ALmost like a Cheddar-Stilton hybrid.

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Agree with both of your choices. Since you like those you might want to try St. Augur which is a very nice French blue in the same slightly nutty flavour range. It should be gettable in the states I think.

Also, go to the wikipedia write up on Shropshire Blue. It makes for fascinating reading.