Kenduri food

[Pan]

Kenduri is the Malay word for "feast," and kenduris are traditional for special occasions like weddings, circumcisions, when students finish mengaji al-Qur'an (studying the Qur'an) or instruction in silat (Malaysian martial arts) or some other discipline, and at holidays like Hari Raya (the two major Muslim holidays for Malays). I was just chatting on the soc.culture.malaysia newsgroup about kenduri food in Terengganu. We have threads on Malaysian Cuisine: Favorite Dishes and Kuih, so there will be some overlap here, but I think the phenomenon of Malay feast foods deserves discussion here.

To me, the one really essential kenduri food is nasi kuning, which is glutinous rice that's been colored yellow (=kuning) with turmeric and boiled in coconut milk. Yellow is the royal color, so the symbolism is evident. For weddings, eggs are also essential, and I remember that egg curries were often present at wedding kenduris. Eggs represent fertility, naturally enough. It was common to slaughter a goat or two for a wedding or circumcision kenduri when I was living in rural Terengganu in the 70s. The entire village was invited. A spicy curry would be made with the goat meat. For Hari Raya, kuih (cakes) are traditional to celebrate the sweetness of the occasion. Kuih are usual at other types of kenduris, too, but I think they really exemplify Hari Raya more than any other foodstuff, and most any household serving food for guests on Hari Raya will present several varieties of kuih.

I'm sure there are regional differences in kenduri food from north to south and east to west. What foods exemplify kenduris to you? Also, to what extent are Malay foods such as nasi kuning used at special occasions in non-Malay households in Malaysia and neighboring countries (e.g., Singapore)? Do non-Malays refer to their wedding banquets and such as "kenduris"? Inquiring minds want to know.

[Gul_Dekar]

Hmm...as far as I know nasi kuning is just for Malay events. Malaysian Chinese weddings are pretty much similar to how Chinese weddings are held around the world I think. The multi-course dinner format. And they're not referred to as kenduris. Although some Chinese of Fukkien dialect do use the Malay word for marriage, 'kahwin' in their speech when describing it.

Perhaps I'm a bit ignorant (since I'm Msian I should know this stuff!), but I was wondering how are baba & nyonya weddings? Do they incorporate the elements of a kenduri?

[Pan]

Perhaps I'm a bit ignorant (since I'm Msian I should know this stuff!), but I was wondering how are baba & nyonya weddings? Do they incorporate the elements of a kenduri?

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Beats me, but I'd like to know. I'm guessing yes on this, or at least sometimes.

[Pan]

I'd love more replies on this thread. Kenduris must be Indonesian, too. Any comments, Yetty?

[Dim Sim]

I am not too sure about kenduri in Indonesia , but I do know they do have nasi kuning in Indonesia for special occasions, afterall the malays and the muslim Indonesians do share simular culture and language. And yes the weddings are almost always whole kampung (village) affairs. everyone gets invited.

[spaghetttti]

What a great topic, Michael, and quite the coincidence! Just this morning my mother and I were talking about my upcoming birthday and what we were planning to do. I originally wanted to do just small plates, finger food and stuff. But I have a feeling she wants something a little more elaborate, if you know what I mean.

Making and serving nasi kuning is a tradition in my family when celebrating birthdays and anniversaries

though in the traditional tumpeng or cone shape. I love nasi kuning with all the accoutrements: urap, the vegetable salad with grated coconut, perkedel, tiny meat and potato patties, and so many other delicacies.

The Central and East Javanese use kenduri, and my people of West Java usually say hajatan or selamatan. In addition to events celebrating the completion and recital of the Al Qur'an, birthdays, anniversaries, circumcisions, the kenduris are frequently held for a first-time expectant mother at her seventh month where there will be a special ritual of "selling" a fruit salad called rujak buah

then later celebrating the first haircut of a 40-day-old infant.

A few months ago I attended a kenduri for a book launching where the peak of the tumpeng was cut and presented to someone as a symbol of honor and respect.

Edited December 9, 2004 by spaghetttti (log)

[Pan]

In Malaysia, it was traditional to shave an infant's head (cukur kepala). (And was it just boys? I'll ask my mother.) I don't remember ever being invited to one, though; I think it was an intimate gathering. My mother witnessed many. At around the 7th month of pregnancy, it used to be time for melenggang perut, a relaxing tummy massage for the mother, with associated ceremony (a pretty interesting and lovely ceremony, I thought). I was invited to one I can recall, which did include somewhat elaborate foods for the guests, notably including eggs, I believe I remember correctly, and bertih (popped rice), a type of rice which includes the air of the spirits (which are considered to be composed of air and fire, with none of the earth and water included in the bodies of humans and animals -- apologies if I'm getting any of this wrong from memory, but I think it's accurate). Melenggang perut was already going out of fashion in the 70s, as it traditionally included and was associated with non-Islamic practices derived from Hinduism and pre-Hindu Malay animism.

Yetty, thank you for a great contribution as usual, and happy birthday in advance! Obviously, your mother will make it a splendid occasion!

[Shiewie]

Happy birthday in advance from me too Yetty! Great pics as always - that rujak buah looks very similar to the rojak buah we have in Malaysia. Please do post pictures of your birthday celebrations.

[maukitten]

On the baba and nyonya weddings, when my parents got married in Penang (this was in the early 1960's), they did have a kenduri type of thing on the wedding eve. The wedding eve dinner is primarily for family members (extended family members!).

My mum's family hired a host of chefs who set up their stoves and pots in the kitchen and backyard. They then proceeded to cook nyonya delicacies to feed at least 100 people. Guests would eat in batches in the dining room. A typical menu would include assam fish curry, pork ball soup, duck and preserved veg soup, chicken curry, joo hoo char (dried squid fried with julienned vegetables) - I will have to ask my mum for the full menu!

She says that these feasts were also held a few times a year during birthdays - her parents' and grandmother's.

[JustKay]

shape.  I love nasi kuning with all the accoutrements:  urap, the vegetable salad with grated coconut, perkedel, tiny meat and potato patties, and so many other delicacies.

Yetty ... nasi kuning in Indonesia is made with rice, right? I have an Indonesian neighbor here and that's what she gave me when she said nasi kuning.

Nasi kuning/nasi kunyit (Kelantan/Terengganu) or pulut kuning elsewhere is made from glutionous rice, soaked overnight in tumeric water and limau nipis or asam gelugor (so it cooks witha nice sheen) and steamed or boiled with coconut milk.

In Malay weddings (east coast exlcuded because I have no personal experience), pulut kuning is made into Bunga Pahar and not served to every guests. At the end of the event, only selected people are given a portion of this pulut kuning.

The dishes that are served to guests typically are either nasi minyak (in Johor) or nasi beriyani, with either beef or mutton beriyani, ayam masak merah (chicken in spicy tomato sauce), dalca (lentil curry) and acar - there are 3 different types of acar, the more popular one is the preserved fruit acar, and paceri - a pineapple salad called paceri bombay or the spicy kind called paceri nenas.

At a kenduri for religious reasons, the food is nore 'informal' - anything from roti canai to soup & bread to white rice with lauk are served. The special wedding spread I mentioned above could also be served.