Beaune restaurants and markets

[Freckles]

Thank you. Went to Beaune, but didn't eat at Jardin des Ramparts. Loved the region, though! Hope to go back soon... and maybe eat there then.

[Vinotas]

During one long week of work while in Beaune, I decided it was time to go out and have some fun. I was in Burgundy, so it was time to drink well and let someone else take care of the meals for once (all week I'd been cooking at home, which was great).

I had always been a fan of the Hotel de Beaune for its amazingly priced list of wines, but recently I'd heard they'd opened a bistrot next door so I had to stop in and see what was going on. The decor was modern, with lots of space between the tables, and a lovely outside patio that was separated by an old wall from the noise of Place Carnot.

I ordered a starter of girolles et trompettes de la mort fricasseed with herbs and olive oil, and a main course of veal sweetbreads in a Dijon mustard sauce with some veggies on the side.

But what to drink with this classically Burgundian meal?

Ahhhh, there it was: a 1997 Mommessin Clos de Tart.

As opposed to many Burgheads, I'm not poo-pooing the 1997s, though they do have a softness that isn't "classic" Burgundy. Still, the well-made ones that I've had were delicious if slightly advanced for their age.

At first, this offered a sappy, dark Pinot nose, with earthy notes and a hint of burnt oak. But as it breathed, the nose took on an aged character, smelling older than it was by at least 10 years, with those dark cherry and mushroom notes that we look for in older wines. Not unpleasant, though a bit surprising.

The palate didn't reflect this aged aspect, luckily, with rich, soft, dark sappy Pinot fruits leading to a hint of oak on the finish. The acidity was there, though it was more muted than I like in my Burgs. That said, the wine remained in the mouth long after it slipped down the throat, a lovely reminder of what was. While not breath-taking on its own, the wine really shone with the food.

In fact, this went so well with the mushrooms that I just sat there taking my time, and apparently a long time was taken. After a while, Yohan, the chef, came out to ask what was wrong. I said "Nothing, it's fantastic, why?". He answered with, "You've been eating that dish for an hour, I was afraid you didn't like it!"

Oh God no. But when you've got a great little menage a trois of wine, food and me, why hurry?

Cheers!

PS: I have a more complete review on my blog.

Edited August 1, 2007 by Vinotas (log)

[David Naylor]

hi Vinotas,

not read your blog just yet but will be heading there saturday next and quite looking forward to it.

david

[Vinotas]

hi Vinotas,

not read your blog just yet but will be heading there saturday next and quite looking forward to it.

david

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David,

Beaune is an amazing town to eat and drink in. I am jealous that you're going, I just love the place! Enjoy!

Cheers!

[Vinotas]

In response to Dave Hatfield's request for pictures of the Beaune market, I finally got around to posting them.

This past week was extremely busy, I had a ton of work so I offer HERE some pics from one of my last trips to Burgundy, to the small city of Beaune. On Saturdays, farmers and merchants from all over the region congregate in the main square, offering a veritable cornucopia of sights, smells and sounds to tickle the senses.

Why can't we get something like this in New York? Feel free to drool...

Cheers!

[David Naylor]

Why can't we get something like this in New York? Feel free to drool...

Cheers! 

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Because americans don't deserve it!

Only joking ................................. i will be there next week stocking up for a ten day feast at our house in the Morvan. BTW Vinotas just finished dinner and had a wonderful Chateau Fuisse (J & J Vincent) 2002 and a Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos d'Arlot 1999....... very tasty. Do you have any recomendations for eating in Chablis? i will be spending the day there on the saturday 21st march. It is about 40 minutes from the house but not been there since '89

David

[Vinotas]

Hi David,

I've only been to Chablis once, and only for the day. I ate at a winery, so I can't really offer any advice, sorry to say. I know there are a few good places, but you might want to Google them.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Cheers!

[algy]

Do you have any recomendations for eating in Chablis?

David

dined at the hostellerie des clos

Michelin star, classic cuisine, not particularly exciting, but well done. Fantastic wine list with, not surprisingly, extraordinary range and depth of best Chablis producers.

Apparently M. Vignaud also has an interest in a more modest place - Bistrot des Grands Crus - which I've never tried.

bistrot des grands cru

Edited March 8, 2008 by algy (log)

[nibor]

Vinotas – I had breakfast at one of the restaurants in photo 18 on your blog of Beaune. We thought it would be touristy, being right by the market, but we were hungry. That cheese omelet was perhaps the best thing I have ever eaten. I have tried unsuccessfully to recreate it back in the US but our eggs, our cheese, our butter, well, none of them are good enough. I dream about that omelet.

[Dave Hatfield]

Have added the Beaune link to the map; thanks for remembering Vinotas!

Also, I've posted to the pinned topic on restaurants, shopping & so forth above with a link to the map s that it doesn't get buried in the regular forum posts.

I've also updated the Restaurant map.

[SuzySushi]

I've been enjoying your glorious photos, remembering the times we've visited Beaune. What part of the year did you visit? From the lightweight attire, it sure doesn't look like late February-early March.

[Dave Hatfield]

Have added the Beaune link to the map; thanks for remembering Vinotas!

Also, I've posted to the pinned topic on restaurants, shopping & so forth above with a link to the map s that it doesn't get buried in the regular forum posts.

I've also updated the Restaurant map.

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John now tells me that he's moved the map into the Alpha listing in Restaurants, Shopping & Staying. Oddly enough it called "Markets Map.

[Vinotas]

Suzy,

Indeed, these pics were taken in September, so the weather was balmy and wonderful.

Nibor,

I agree, omelettes in France are nothing like their flaccid counterparts in the US, no matter how hard one tries. The eggs are denser in Europe for some reason, and of course the butter much better. I've managed to approximate some in the US but it's tough, one needs to source some farm-fresh eggs or the result is dreary.

Cheers!