Momofuku Noodle Bar (2004–2009)

[spaetzle_maker]

Edo, I think we just missed each other! I ate at the counter on Saturday as well. I think I was seated around 7pm and I may have left around 8 or 8:30.

The peeky toe crab with nori pasta is delicious. The pasta has such a firm texture and the chef explained that it's due to the use of a large amount of egg yolks. This dish was a special, but I hope that the pasta manages to find its way on the menu permanently. Right now they don't have a pasta cutter so it's being hand cut and it's a time consuming process.

The smoked duck breast with sour cream, cinnammon, mustard seed and arugula remains an excellent starter.

The kitchen is working on a new dish that I had a chance to sample. It is similar to old spicy rice cakes dish that was replaced by the rice cakes with oxtail during the winter. I don't know if the dish will end up on the menu exactly as I had it: roasted rice cakes, a spicy sauce with some onion (same or very similar to the sauce in the first incarnation of the rice cakes) with scrambled eggs, small shrimp, cashews and green onion. Although the old rice cakes were delicious, I thought it became boring after a few bites. The addition of the eggs, shrimp and cashews added some variety to the texture and flavors. This was absolutely delicious and is a big improvement over the original rice cakes dish, but for anyone who was missing the original, this should fit the bill.

Ami brought over some meade to try - this is something I've never had before. It's sweet but has enough depth and complexity so as to not be cloying. I can see this pairing well with a lot of spicy, porky food.

They are indeed not doing the hitachino anymore.

Edited April 28, 2008 by spaetzle_maker (log)

[spaetzle_maker]

And never forget about dessert! Peanut butter and cracker jack swirl. Oh wow - amazing.

[edo]

I actually had the crab pasta special as well, but I was a little disappointed. Don't get me wrong, it was very very good, but it was my least favorite of the things I got (sea bass, beef tounge, sweatbreads, all YUM). Maybe it would be better for sharing with a couple other people, but since I was alone I found myself wishing that I instead had some of the chicken wings, or the prawns with grits, neither of which I've had this being my first time) that I kept seeing going out right in front of me. I did like that it was very seasonal, and the first several bites were very enjoyable, but I tired of it (at least relative to all the other great stuff) when there was still lots left.

It did seem popular though. Actually, come to think of it maybe they just had very few. I didn't see too many go out, but I heard them say they only had 6 left around 8:30 or so.

It was interesting to me to see what type of dishes got ordered, since I saw most everything go out. It looked to me that there were lots of the noodle dishes and kimchee stew, looked like most everyone got some of those. Then there were lots of the prawns with grits and lots of the chicken wings. butt I saw very few of the raw dishes or offal dishes go out. I only saw one sweatbread go out, and good thing I did because it looked awesome so I added it to my order, and indeed it was. Maybe this is telling me that I'm ordering the wrong things, but I suspect my interests lie elsewhere. I also wonder that since it was a saturday night, it a less adventurous crowd? (not at all in a bad way.) or maybe I'm just weird. any thoughts? I really did want to try the kimchee stew, but I saw how big it was and thought ordering that would preclude trying too many other things, so I'll have to go back and try it.

[Nathan]

well, a lot of people are misled by the name "Noodle Bar"....plus, that's the way it started out.

that's why you often see comments along the lines of "I don't get the Chang hype. He just serves ramen and it's not even that good!"

[ulterior epicure]

The Smoked Duck Salad really is as good as everyone (who's encouraged me to order it) says it is. What's in the "sour cream" base?? It tasted more like mayonnaise. They said that the mustard seed syrup was reduced mirin. Is mirin (reduced) *that* sweet?

Beef tongue (two ways) was great. The slab of grilled tongue was so soft that had I been blindfolded, I would have mistook it for a slab of grilled fat. The shaved tongue with the salad and pickles was surprisingly good. The pickles weren't the sharp-tasting burger pickles (that I hate) I thought they were. They were mild - I'm assuming David Chang's own.

The Pork Steamed buns weren't as good as I had remembered them from Ssam Bar. Thought one: too much sauce; it was rather sweet. Thought two: pork belly not as meltingly soft and tender (or warm) as the one I had at Ssam Bar. Thought three: the steamed buns weren't as fluffy or warm (or moist, in a steamed sense) as the ones at Ssam Bar.

Seasonal Pickles were great.

Really wanted to try the Octopus with Seaweed. Didn't have room to fit it in.

[ulterior epicure]

I should clarify: the tongue dish was good, but I haven't decided whether or not I love it. The thing is, on the one hand, the grilled tongue was impressively soft; I've never had it so soft in my life. On the other hand, I'm not sure I want to eat tongue of that consistency. I think I like my tongue to have a bit of bounce to it. This was almost like eating panna cotta.

[Fat Guy]

As my Noodle Bar renaissance continues I'm working my way through the whole menu. Tonight I had a few new (to me) things that I thought were superb.

I don't think nearly enough has been said about the fried chicken. Just to be clear, this is not batter-dipped, Southern-fried chicken. This is more along the lines of the Korean fried chicken at a place like Bon Chon -- the crispy skin is the actual skin of the chicken not a layer of batter -- but it's so much better than any Korean (or Thai) fried chicken I've had. For one thing, the chicken itself -- poulet rouge from Ashley Farms in North Carolina -- is an outstanding product. For another thing, because Noodle Bar is preparing small quantities to order the cooking is spot-on. And for still another thing there's no sweet-sticky glaze. Rather, the chicken pieces come in a bowl with just a little vinegary sauce at the bottom. The sauce is a tease. You really have to go after it if you want it, and there's just enough left at the end to sop up with the included bowl of rice.

Nearly the equal of the chicken is the steak. It's a grilled Niman Ranch tri-tip sirloin, sliced and drizzled with kimchi butter and served over greens done in the style of creamed spinach -- but the creaminess comes from tofu. While this piece of meat may not be the equal of a Peter Luger porterhouse, it's a very high-level product and is surely the best piece of beef I've had at a restaurant for $23. Plus Peter Luger doesn't offer kimchi butter.

The Barron Point oysters garnished with pickled shallots and horseradish are simple and effective: first-rate oysters with a garnish that enhances without overwhelming.

Ami, the manager, brought us a dish to taste. He said it was new in previews today. It's roasted asparagus served over a pool of thick mustard-mayo-ham (I think) sauce, topped with crispy shallots and a soft-cooked egg. This dish is a winner; a worthy departure from asparagus-and-egg normalcy. He also poured us some of the South African dry mead, which went well with this dish but better (as he said it would) with the fried chicken.

Also had some things I've had before: pickles, pork buns, shiitake buns, char, kimchi stew. All up to standard.

And, the soft-serve ice cream. The peanut butter ice cream is so dense, with such pure and intense peanut flavor, it puts every other example I've had to shame. The Cracker Jack flavor is great too, though it tastes more like Butterfinger to me.

Monday night at 6pm is a good time to visit Noodle Bar. No wait, nice relaxed pace, nobody waiting for your table, didn't really start filling up until we were leaving.

[daisy17]

Ami, the manager, brought us a dish to taste. He said it was new in previews today. It's roasted asparagus served over a pool of thick mustard-mayo-ham (I think) sauce, topped with crispy shallots and a soft-cooked egg. This dish is a winner; a worthy departure from asparagus-and-egg normalcy. He also poured us some of the South African dry mead, which went well with this dish but better (as he said it would) with the fried chicken.

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That's exactly what it is - the sauce is OUT OF CONTROL good - a tangy, mustardy mayo studded with a tiny dice of grilled country ham. Holy crap, I almost licked the plate. The egg was not runny, and perhaps that's why it didn't seem essential to the dish in my mind. I kind of ignored the egg for the asparagus and sauce.

I also had another off menu dish today - rice cakes with a bibim sauce, shrimp and strips of cooked egg, garnished with scallions. The sauce is a luscious combination of sweet and mild but evident heat. Really enjoyed the textures and flavors in this dish.

Was told they're playing with both dishes and that both will be on the menu soon. I'm not sure what kind of further tweaking is needed - they both seemed ready to go to me!

[Fat Guy]

The egg was not runny, and perhaps that's why it didn't seem essential to the dish in my mind. 

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I agree. The egg doesn't integrate into the dish as well as a runny egg, or at least an egg with a runny yolk, would.

[flinflon28]

I also had another off menu dish today - rice cakes with a bibim sauce, shrimp and strips of cooked egg, garnished with scallions.  The sauce is a luscious combination of sweet and mild but evident heat.  Really enjoyed the textures and flavors in this dish.

For the first time ever I went here and didn't have the Kimchee Stew but instead had the rice cake dish which sounded too good to pass up.

Excellent dish. While watching the cook make it I noticed the shrimp went on the plancha for just a few seconds....maybe 20 seconds if that. Didn't seem like enough time to cook them. When presented they didn't have that sear that you're used to seeing from things that have had high heat. The rice cakes are crunch and mushy in the middle and the first bite of shrimp while warm...almost feels like sushi. At first it turned me off but by the third bite I was sold. Totally new experience and it worked with the sauce, crushed cashews and ribbons of omelette that came mixed in. At $14 it's a winner.

[philadining]

Beef tongue (two ways) was great.  The slab of grilled tongue was so soft that had I been blindfolded, I would have mistook it for a slab of grilled fat.  The shaved tongue with the salad and pickles was surprisingly good. The pickles weren't the sharp-tasting burger pickles (that I hate) I thought they were.  They were mild - I'm assuming David Chang's own.

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I thought that dish was pretty rocking, and especially enjoyed the grilled part. But I didn't eat the whole thing myself...

[sucio sanchez]

between noodle bar and ssam bar I've probably been a total of 8 times. I always found it to be solid, but over priced and left hungry. I wouldn't say underwhelmed, but just wondering what I'm missing or why I don't walk out of there gushing, like some of the posters on here. Actually it's mostly just a handful of you, but anyway.

Now I've read how you need to order certain dishes etc..etc....

Well I stopped by for lunch today, and I had read rave reviews about the smoked duck salad, so I order that. Again it was good and I ate all of it, but I found it for the most part one dimensional, even with the mustard seeds and arugula. It needed some kind off acid, because the rest of the componrts didn't play against the richness of the duck. It was flat.

Next I ordered the rice cakes. It tasted like something you'd get at a food court, way too much hoisin and siracha, and the shrimp were basically irrelevant. Jarred hoisin and bottled siracha for sauces. C'mon

Had the peanut butter icecream, since the cracker jack flavor wasn't working, no big deal I know shit happens. While the ice cream was delicious, it was enough for a 3 year old. Believe me I'm not some cavone that expects huge Olive garden size portions, but Jesus, let a man eat.

All in it was 41$ not including the 2 small size shake shack burgers I ate before I went home.

Also is it me or do you see a lot of ingredient repition on the mention such as mustard, pickled this and pickled that,kimchi and, bacon. Total joke, have a look for yourselves.

[Mazzer]

between noodle bar and ssam bar I've probably been a total of 8 times. I always found it to be solid, but over priced and left hungry. ... All in it was 41$ not including the 2 small size shake shack burgers I ate before I went home.

Appetites obviously vary, and I don't think anyone can dispute your personal opinion that it's overpriced for what you get. That's your judgment call. But if leaving hungry is dampening an otherwise enjoyable meal, I might suggest stacking a seasonal dish -- which tend to be smaller and pricier due to a focus on high quality ingredients -- with a hearty staple like the kimchi stew or one of the ramens, which can really fill you up. That way, perhaps, you can get the best of both worlds.

I have to say, though, that if you really did have the duck salad, the rice cakes, (small?) soft serve, and two Shake Shack burgers ... wow. I'm impressed.

Also is it me or do you see a lot of ingredient repition on the mention such as mustard, pickled this and pickled that,kimchi and, bacon. Total joke, have a look for yourselves.

I really don't get this argument, which seems to crop up more and more lately. I'd like to see an objective menu analysis at a number of restaurants across cuisines, and the resulting map of ingredient frequency, plotted over time. (Kidding. Maybe.) Seriously though, I think the relative underuse of kimchi, et al., at other NYC restaurants makes it seem like overuse at Momofuku, but in reality it's just chefs operating in their element, same as anywhere else. I'm willing to concede this point, however, as I don't even see it as a bad thing, either way.

Good report, thanks.

[sucio sanchez]

between noodle bar and ssam bar I've probably been a total of 8 times. I always found it to be solid, but over priced and left hungry. ... All in it was 41$ not including the 2 small size shake shack burgers I ate before I went home.

Appetites obviously vary, and I don't think anyone can dispute your personal opinion that it's overpriced for what you get. That's your judgment call. But if leaving hungry is dampening an otherwise enjoyable meal, I might suggest stacking a seasonal dish -- which tend to be smaller and pricier due to a focus on high quality ingredients -- with a hearty staple like the kimchi stew or one of the ramens, which can really fill you up. That way, perhaps, you can get the best of both worlds.

I have to say, though, that if you really did have the duck salad, the rice cakes, (small?) soft serve, and two Shake Shack burgers ... wow. I'm impressed.

Also is it me or do you see a lot of ingredient repition on the mention such as mustard, pickled this and pickled that,kimchi and, bacon. Total joke, have a look for yourselves.

I really don't get this argument, which seems to crop up more and more lately. I'd like to see an objective menu analysis at a number of restaurants across cuisines, and the resulting map of ingredient frequency, plotted over time. (Kidding. Maybe.) Seriously though, I think the relative underuse of kimchi, et al., at other NYC restaurants makes it seem like overuse at Momofuku, but in reality it's just chefs operating in their element, same as anywhere else. I'm willing to concede this point, however, as I don't even see it as a bad thing, either way.

Good report, thanks.

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I guess I can be a bit gluttonous(Sp?). And I've had the kimchi stew and the ramens which are both very good, but I wanted to try some of the more composed dishes, and after all lets be honest if I wrote a bad post and only had the ramen, I'd probably be chastised for not ordering any of the more innovated dishes. By the way I used to like the chicken and egg with rice and thought it was of good value.

[BryanZ]

I left PDT at 11:45 and rushed to Momofuku to see if they'd seat me and two of my friends before closing at midnight. Thankfully, they did, and we had the opportunity to indulge in some pretty killer post-drinking snacks.

Three of us split an order of buns, the sweetbreads, and the chicken wings. I've always been a Ssam Bar guy but in this context Noodle Bar was perfect, as the items were selected just felt more casual and snack-y. Sweetbreads were just fried little nuggets of crunchy, creamy goodness served with a sweet chili dipping sauce and pickles. Perfect for munching. Chicken wings were awesome. This was actually the first time I'd had these though I know they've been on the menu for forever. Great sauce, great smoke, great texture. My non-foodie friend was floored by the fact we could roll in there literally minutes before closing, have some absolutely killer snack, and walk out of there in 15 minutes for less than $15/person after tip. You'd spend that nearly much at any greasy spoon, pizza/burger shop, for food not even in the same galaxy of tastiness.

[Fat Guy]

Just catching up re some recent Noodle Bar visits:

- If you want to know where Adam Perry Lang goes for steak, look no further. He was eating the tri-tip a couple of seats down from me at the bar. I confronted him about this and he said it was actually something the kitchen just sent out to him. But he also said it was damn good. I concur.

- The snap peas are a great product. There are snap-pea dishes on the menus at both Noodle Bar and Ssam Bar right now. Try both if you can.

- I somehow never managed to have the fluke before. Shame on me. It's a must-order. Tastes like a signature Nobu dish that Nobu forgot to invent.

- I took six Momofuku virgins to Noodle Bar on three separate trips lately. I mention that because, in the past, I took all Momofuku virgins to Ssam Bar. These days, I enjoy the Noodle Bar experience more so I've switched over to Noodle Bar for deflowering situations.

- I've now made my way through pretty much the whole current Noodle Bar menu, with some dishes sampled repeatedly. I'm not as comprehensive on the current Ssam Bar menu but I've had a lot of it as well as previous seasons' versions of similar dishes. I also recently ate dinner at both places on the same night. I'm starting to have a clearer sense of how to compare the places food-wise (service, for me, has been far superior at Noodle Bar of late). I think it's still fair to say that Ssam is more haute than Noodle. I mean, you can tell that pretty much just from the beverage programs without even looking at the food. But menu-wise, while each place has both rustic and haute dishes, the center of gravity is more haute at Ssam and more rustic at Noodle (I actually sat with both menus and a pen and, I think, demonstrated this numerically). However, the haute/ambitious dishes at Noodle are just as good as the haute/ambitious dishes at Ssam. You don't have to order according to the center of gravity of the menu. There's enough haute at Noodle to fill several meals before you have to start repeating (assuming the menu hasn't changed by then). Ultimately, though, if you want to experience the full range of Momofuku wonder you need to eat at Noodle, Ssam and Ko. There's no getting around it. Still, if I had to throw two Momofukus out of the lifeboat I'd keep Noodle.

[Nathan]

might agree with you....I think Ssam Bar was at its strongest last year.

[spaetzle_maker]

I was at Noodle Bar a few nights ago and the kitchen sent out a dish that they were working on: a very moist pork loin served with pickled strawberries and some greens. I tend to not like pork loin because it's usually so dry and boring, but this was pounded thin and then brined, yielding a highly flavorful, moist piece of meat and the pickled strawberries were a wonderful accompaniment.

Noodle Bar is doing some fun beverages now - some homemade sodas: a tamarind celery soda and an orange creamsicle soda. In addition they are making the most delicious toasted sesame horchata.

[spaetzle_maker]

Last night there was a special: a new type of bun. The buns are brushed with a spicy sriracha aioli and filled with a chiffonade of lettuce and the mayan prawns that are normally found in the grits dish. The heads of the prawns are served with a soy based dipping sauce along side of the buns. The aioli and lettuce make this a good "summer bun" and I loved the prawns.

Service and food were as wonderful as always.

[edsel]

- I took six Momofuku virgins to Noodle Bar on three separate trips lately. I mention that because, in the past, I took all Momofuku virgins to Ssam Bar. These days, I enjoy the Noodle Bar experience more so I've switched over to Noodle Bar for deflowering situations.

...

Ultimately, though, if you want to experience the full range of Momofuku wonder you need to eat at Noodle, Ssam and Ko. There's no getting around it. Still, if I had to throw two Momofukus out of the lifeboat I'd keep Noodle.

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Momo virgin checking in with a couple of questions.

I'll be in town for most of next week. I'll be across the river in Astoria, but my hotel is close to public transportation so I should be able to make my way into Manhattan without too much trouble.

Is there a recommended time of the evening to show up at either m. noodle or m. ssäm? I don't mind waiting for a seat, but if the place is mobbed that might be a bit of a bummer.

Are there any must-not-miss dishes at either place these days? (I'm ruling out ko, since reservations there proved impossible). I know that a lot of this has been discussed before, but I'm curious about what the current recommendations are, considering that the menu seems to change at both places fairly often.

[Fat Guy]

My recent observation at Noodle Bar is that the slow periods are early and late. That's kind of true at any restaurant, but specifically Noodle Bar is really relaxed from after the lunch rush (say 2:30pm) until 7 or even a little later. Then it tends to be slammed from 8-10. And then if you come in late, like 10:30 on weeknights or 11:30 on weekend nights, it's usually pretty tame. They close at 11 on most nights and 12 on the busy weekend nights.

Ssam Bar doesn't have the mid-afternoon option on account of the limited hours of the "real" menu. Just to recap: the good menu runs 5pm to 12am Sun-Wed and 5pm to 2am Thu-Sat. The place is open at other times but with a limited menu, and while you can get some nice food at any time it's just not the same as the full-on Ssam Bar menu. My casual observation is that Ssam Bar is more popular than Noodle Bar at peak hours -- say 8-10pm -- but I've never had a problem getting in to Ssam Bar at 6pm or after 11pm.

Also, at both places, if you're just one person chances are they'll find you a spot at the counter pretty quickly. The hour-long waits are more likely to be a problem for groups.

In terms of the can't miss dishes, I think if you've never been to either place you really should start out with some pork buns and the seasonal pickles. Those are common to both Ssam Bar and Noodle Bar, and are a good first taste. From there it matters how many people you've got, their preferences, etc. Also the daily specials tend to be winners, and those are always in flux -- you just have to make a judgment call when you hear them. Still I'm sure folks here would be willing to advise on ideal menus for any size group.

[weinoo]

We had dinner on Thursday night - the sweetbreads, as always, were great. We do love anything with crispy rice cakes, and the fried chicken is delicious - juicy, crispy, salty, everything that you want in a piece of fried chicken. We didn't have the special roasted pork belly roulade because we'd had it before...oh, and don't forget to have some of whatever ice creams they're making for dessert - the salty/sweet works so well.

Walked in at 7-ish and were seated immediately. But when we were leaving the line was 20 people deep.

[Fat Guy]

I have to dissent on the rice cakes. While I've always enjoyed the rice cake dishes, I don't think they rise to the Momofuku standard. Let's define the Momofuku standard, loosely, as a dish being either 1-categorically better than its non-Momofuku equivalent, or 2-unlike anything else out there. Dishes like the pork buns, pickles or fried chicken fall into category 1. Dishes like the octopus salad and the prawns and grits, while they have arguable similarities to existing dishes, are sufficiently different to qualify as new inventions. I think the rice cake dishes that I've seen throughout the history of both Momofukus have been unsuccessful attempts at category 1. The Momofukus just don't do rice cakes any better than the norm. The one rice cake dish that came close to transcendent was the one at Ssam Bar with the sausage and bitter greens, but even that was I think more of a near miss. Meanwhile, the rice cake dishes with the sticky-sweet red sauce were not worthy of the Momofukus. In addition, rice cakes are the most inconsistently cooked item I've noticed coming out of the Momofuku kitchens. They're first browned on the griddle then sauteed with the rest of the ingredients. Sometimes they're barely browned and other times they're almost burnt.

[weinoo]

I have to dissent on the rice cakes. While I've always enjoyed the rice cake dishes, I don't think they rise to the Momofuku standard. Let's define the Momofuku standard, loosely, as a dish being either 1-categorically better than its non-Momofuku equivalent, or 2-unlike anything else out there. Dishes like the pork buns, pickles or fried chicken fall into category 1. Dishes like the octopus salad and the prawns and grits, while they have arguable similarities to existing dishes, are sufficiently different to qualify as new inventions. I think the rice cake dishes that I've seen throughout the history of both Momofukus have been unsuccessful attempts at category 1. The Momofukus just don't do rice cakes any better than the norm. The one rice cake dish that came close to transcendent was the one at Ssam Bar with the sausage and bitter greens, but even that was I think more of a near miss. Meanwhile, the rice cake dishes with the sticky-sweet red sauce were not worthy of the Momofukus. In addition, rice cakes are the most inconsistently cooked item I've noticed coming out of the Momofuku kitchens. They're first browned on the griddle then sauteed with the rest of the ingredients. Sometimes they're barely browned and other times they're almost burnt.

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Ahh, but that's your definition of the standard...in any case, we've always had good luck with the rice cakes, which to me more fit your standard definition #2...I've never had them like they're prepared here anywhere else...the other night, they were crispy and crunchy outside and soft inside...along with some perfectly cooked shrimp as well as shredded tomago, they hit the spot just fine. While they may not be as transcendent as some of the other dishes on the menu, I think they're a good dish to order if you're with a crowd.

[spaetzle_maker]

I have to say, I really enjoy the current rice cakes at Noodle Bar. I found the older preparations to be a bit one dimensional, but the current version has so many components that offer contrast in both flavors and textures that I find it quite delicious. This dish is a little bit on the sweet side, but I like it.

I also recommend the arctic char and the fluke. Edsel, depending on the size of your group, a few buns would be nice. If they have any new buns as a special, I'd get those as well.

The tongue, sauteed greens and smoked duck are also favorites of mine.

For a soup, my recommendation is the kimchi stew.

I recently had the sweetbreads again after a very long hiatus. Those are incredibly delicious. If the dipping sauce is too sweet for your tastes, you can add a little sriracha on your own.

I'm not as much of a fan of the chicken as others - there is a lot of soy sauce in the dish, so your feelings about the dish may hinge somewhat on your feelings about soy sauce, but the chicken itself is of very high quality.