Cutting Boards

[Country Cook]

Take a look at the Bigleaf Maple cutting boards on this web site, legacy wood crafts.

I bought a cheese board for CAD $20 at Granville Island in Vancouver BC, great looking naturalistic boards, works of art really and quite usable.

[Susie Q]

Thanks for posting the Legacy Wood Crafts site.

Does anybody know of any places out there that sell solid round cross cuts of untreated wood?

I'm looking for a couple of large natural and rough around the edge looking wood boards to put cheeses and meats on for guests to slice as they wish.

[Octaveman]

Don't know but this guy may be able to get something to order...

http://www.theboardsmith.com/

[Country Cook]

Thanks for posting the Legacy Wood Crafts site.

Does anybody know of any places out there that sell solid round cross cuts of untreated wood?

I'm looking for a couple of large natural and rough around the edge looking wood boards to put cheeses and meats on for guests to slice as they wish.

←

Making large, or even small natural round cutting boards is a very difficult process involving wrapping hemp rope around the blocks at high tension to keep them from splitting as they dry but, hey there might be some one out there into that, the guy from legacy wood craft was looking into the equipment,

[Susie Q]

Thanks for the site Octaveman. I'll check it out.

Country Cook thanks for the info too.

I thought that boards showing the full growth rings of a tree and in a natural shape might look interesting and be different.

Who knew they would be hard to fine if even possible to find.

Thanks again.

[plk]

If all you want is a slice of a round trunk, you might be able to get one by calling a local tree service company. When we had to have a tree removed from our yard, there was so much leftover wood that I would have welcomed anyone who wanted to take some of it away. The wood will probably split as it dries, making it unusable for a real cutting board, but it would probably be okay for presenting cheese. Just definitely disenfect it first.

[Landshark]

I have few different boards, I just got a Boardsmith Maple end grain Butcher Block

16" x 22" board. best board I have owned. I also have a Boos 15" X 20" that I have had for years very nice board, an assortment of poly boards for chicken, meat and fish, and finally some totally Bamboo boards that I use more for serving than chopping.

I would not use olive oil on your wood board because it can get rancid. On my wood boards I use a combination bee's wax with mineral oil

[WiscoNole]

I think you guys have sold me on the Sani-Tuff.

[jmolinari]

Saw these rubber boards at a resto supply store yesterday, and good lord are they heavy. That reason alone stops me from gettnig it, my wife would have a hell of a time moving it around and cleaning it.

[Octaveman]

Those rubber boards are meant to stay on the counter. Think of them as a semi permanent counter doubling as a usable as a cutting board. If I had enough counter space that didn't see a lot of traffic, I'd definately get one.

[doronin]

Just got a couple of Epicurean boards, will see how well they do...

[Matt_T]

Hi there....

I can't figure out why apparently harder boards are supposed to be easier on your knives....

I had wood boards some years ago but when the last one split in half I switched to cheap white poly. About 5/8" thick with a little texture. The largest size I can fit in my sink is still light enough for my wife to handle (unlike the old 2" thick wood board.) I have not noticed any difference in the life of my knife edge but haven't done a careful study, either.

Now after cutting with very decent Victorinox knives for years I'm about to take the plunge on a fancy Japanese Gyuto. (OK, not too fancy: a starter Gyuto from Tojiro for $60, still the most I'll have spent on a knife) So I'm reconsidering the cutting board issue.

I can easily indent my poly boards with my thumbnail. Not so with the maple boards, or the new Epicurean brand boards I've seen which all seem much harder. It seems the softer board should be easier on the knife....what am I missing?

Thanks, and happy Fourth of July!

Matt

[Octaveman]

You're not missing anything and I'm not sure where you get that harder boards are supposed to be easier on knives. They're not. There are trade-offs though. The harder you go the longer the board lasts but they'll be harder on your knives. The softer you go, the board will develop deep cuts and will have to be discarded quicker but it will be gentler on your knives. Plus very sharp knives will get stuck in softer boards regardless of material. The Epicurean baords are veyr hard composite boards and while being convenient, they are very bad for knives.

There is an industry hardness scale for measuring a woods hardness that is called the Janka scale. Woods in the 1,000 to 1,500 hardness level make for good cutting boards. This includes American Black Cherry, Walnut, Teak, Hard Rock Maple, Bamboo, Ash, Birch. These are all tight grained woods with tight pores and medium hardness and fall into this range. Woods of the same name vary greatly by species too. For example Cherry can go from 950 to 2,850 for Brazlian Cherry. End grain is ideal when it comes to wood boards of any type.

Edited July 5, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[Jmahl]

As an aside, I would mention that when selecting a new cutting board buy at least one size larger than you think you want. You will not be sorry. Here also, size does count.

Also a separate poly board for raw meat or poultry is a good idea - they go in the dish washer and you can sanitize with a clorine solution.

Jmahl

[MelissaH]

As an aside, I would mention that when selecting a new cutting board buy at least one size larger than you think you want.  You will not be sorry.  Here also, size does count.

Also a separate poly board for raw meat or poultry is a good idea - they go in the dish washer and you can sanitize with a clorine solution.

Jmahl

←

But if you're planning on putting it in the dishwasher, make sure it will fit in yours!

MelissaH

[Matt_T]

Thanks for the detailed reply! The breadth of knowledge in this community is amazing.

You're not missing anything and I'm not sure where you get that harder boards are supposed to be easier on knives.

I don't want to start a fight, but from the post that Chad linked on the first page of this thread:

Plastic or poly boards can be very hard on knife edges. They feel “crunchy” when you try to cut quickly on them. On the other hand, poly boards are inexpensive and come in colors....

End grain boards look kind of like checkerboards. They are made by jointing and gluing many small blocks of wood together with the cut ends facing upwards and are sometimes called butcher blocks. The vertical grain makes for a surface that is extremely durable and is easier on your knives than edge grain or plastic boards.

Maybe my confusion is based in my poor knowledge of chemistry - I thought "poly" referred to the common, fairly thick plastic boards that are usually semi-translucent white (but do come in colors). Maybe the "poly" Chad referred to is something harder. Whatever....I think I can remember the rule of thumb that softer is better (for edge life). I guess if I can dent the board with my thumbnail it is probably ok for my knives.

And I agree on board size. Today I almost bought a 12x18 end grain board from John Boos that was at the outer limits of my budget. But I've come to enjoy the elbow room of a large board and know I'd really prefer a 14" or wider board under my 10" knife, even if I have to stick with ugly poly.

- MT

Edited July 8, 2007 by Matt_T (log)

[Octaveman]

MT, if by the bold portion of Chads writings is what you're referring to as thinking harder is better, wood boards are not harder than poly and chad was referring to end-grain wood boards being easier on your knives which is 100% true. I don't read anywhere in what you qouted as a harder board of any make is easier on your knives so I'm still confused but my confusion is honestly irrelevant.

I've tried poly boards and HATE them. The "crunch" that Chad brings up makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. Can't stand it...specially when my edges start chipping. When I want to use something quickly without having to wash a huge/heavy board I bring out the flexible boards that they sell 4 to a pack. They're cheap, very convenient, can go in the dishwasher, and when my knives slice right through them (too often I'm afraid) I just use one of the others until they all get thrown out and I go get more. I have a Boos 18x24 board and you would be better off with one. Save your money and plan on getting one in the future. Wiser choice than poly. There are other brands that carry end grain that are just as good. One key thing is to get it at least 1" thick. My board is 2" thick and will last me a very long time.

20 x15 end-grain for $87

22 x 18 end grain for $99

Custom end-grain starting at $30

The Boardsmith custom end grain

Catskill, J.K. Adams, Boos, Michigan Maple and some custom makers are all out there to consider. Seriously, hold off, do your research, save your bucks and get something worthy of the cost. You'll be happy you did.

[Matt_T]

I don't think I ever read anywhere that "harder is better," I'm not trying to hang that on Chad. My misconception was based on his comments that end grain wood is easier on knives than poly, combined with my own highly unscientific attempts to judge the relative hardness of these materials by making a thumbnail impression in them.

Speaking of things to hate - I tried some of those disposable, flexible boards and did not care for them, at all. Even though they flex the surface feels harder than the thick white plastic, and they have a weird feel to me. I still have a couple that I only use for handling messy stuff where I can pick the sheet up and bend it into a half-funnel.

Good advice on waiting. However my latest set of poly boards are starting to get a little "tired," as in so heavily scored that the surface is starting to feel "fuzzy." I am pretty good about sanitizing them but it's getting time for a change. I've narrowed it down to end-grain maple, poly, or maybe Sani-Tuff. I saw a selection of the latter in a local store for a fair price a while back and maybe I'll try one of those before investing in a huge butcher block....even if I don't love the Sani-tuff for general purpose use I could always use it as a chicken board.

What about Japanese boards? Since it's the Japanese that make and use the very hard steel knives, I wondered what they cut on with them....checked Korin.com and they have a selection of boards with prices that make end-grain maple look like a bargain. Anybody have experience with Japanese boards? I'm not actually in the market for a $200 cutting board, but maybe the functional characteristics can be likened to a less expensive western-style product...some of the boards at Korin have the word "rubber" in the name so I wonder if they're more similar to Sani-tuff than anything else?

MT

[Matt_T]

I picked up my Sani-tuff board today. I went 12x18x1/2" because I want to use it for chicken and fish and so be able to fit it in the dishwasher. When I eventually get a maple board it will be larger. Would have gone 3/4" thick but the store I bought from (T&T Restaurant Supply in Sacramento) only stocked 1/2". $28 + tax.

They can go in the DW, right? Nothing on the Sani-tuff label nor the maker's website mentions what I'd think would be a strong selling point.

I didn't notice any objectionable smell as another poster mentioned. Maybe my wife will when she gets home - she's got the better sniffer in the family. The board has an interesting texture - almost textile - and I'm looking forward to trying it tonight....going shopping in a bit for dinner and will seek out things to cut.

MT

[Matt_T]

Well that Sani-tuff is pretty nice! I can't compare to end-grain wood as I've only used them a few times, but the rubber does feel better than plastic under the knife. Food doesn't slide around as much - slicing chicken scallops was a snap, no need to press down to hold the meat in position, as with the poly - and the board itself stays put much better without a towel underneath.

Thanks for the recommendation! I do wish I had found the 3/4" thickness....the 1/2" does slip just a bit on my slick granite countertop and I bet the extra mass of the thicker board would help it stay put, as well as reduce warping over the long term. The 1/2" thick is light enough at 12x18 that I'm sure the weight of 3/4" would be no problem even for my wife.

Still looking for confirmation about putting it in the dishwasher - on heated dry or at all. I hand washed mine yesterday.

MT

[larrylee]

Using a bit of shelf liner will hold any cutting board in place, even on marble.

[Varmint]

I put my Sani-Tuff in the dishwasher almost every time I use it. If it warps, put it in a warm oven for an hour and it's flat again.

[Matt_T]

Thanks Varmint!

MT

[Dan-]

How is mesquite as a board material? Is it too hard? What will using a wood with a janka rating of 2345 do to a knife? What's the maximum hardness you'd want? What are the best wood options for darker colored cutting boards?

[Octaveman]

How is mesquite as a board material?

not sure

What will using a wood with a janka rating of 2345 do to a knife?

Kill it

What's the maximum hardness you'd want? What are the best wood options for darker colored cutting boards?

See my July 5 post above. I probably wouldn't go beyond 1500. Walnut is a great dark board color. I actually have a walnut board on order as I speak.