Cutting Boards

[Hest88]

Okay, sorry this took longer than expected. In real life the contrast between the different colors of the wood is much less prominent, but I'm not a good enough photographer to get a good picture. The maple pepper mill should give a good idea of the color difference and size, though.

[Octaveman]

Awesome board. Thanks for the pic. I got a home-made board conidtioner that made my walnut board as smooth as a baby's butt. Fantastic stuff. Let me know if you're interested in a jar and I'll direct you to the guy I got it from. It's a combination of mineral oil and bees wax.

[Mambwe]

Awesome board.  Thanks for the pic.  I got a home-made board conidtioner that made my walnut board as smooth as a baby's butt.  Fantastic stuff.  Let me know if you're interested in a jar and I'll direct you to the guy I got it from.  It's a combination of mineral oil and bees wax.

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Octaveman - Where did you find this magical liquid that turns walnut into a baby's butt? Dave?

[Hest88]

Let me know if you're interested in a jar and I'll direct you to the guy I got it from.  It's a combination of mineral oil and bees wax.

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Well, of course! I finished up my bottle of mineral oil and now I'm using Boos Mystery Oil (which smells rather nice), but I'm always looking for something new to play with!

[Octaveman]

Yes, from Dave. I got a jar at the gathering last weekend and used it on my walnut board. Man-oh-man is this stuff awesome. It's based off a recipe from a guy on a knife forum and it's been tweeked by Dave to where it is now. Very very nice. It spreads really well and doesn't take a lot to cover the board. I probably used two tabelspoons to coat twice my small 12x14 board. It can be purchased below. I don't think he's got it set up to buy online but send him an email expressing your interest and payment can be worked out. Tell him Bob sent you.

http://www.japaneseknifesharpening.com/products.html

Bob

Edited to add that I do not benefit from sales of this stuff just in case anyone was wondering. Just informing people of a great product is all.

Edited November 5, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[paulraphael]

I find a butcher block-sized cutting board to be indispensible. It's my main work surface that gets used for everything from chopping vegetables to rolling out dough. The smaller cutting board is for raw meat and poultry only.

An excellent, cheap way to get big block is to buy a section of rock maple butcher block counter top. Just go to someone who sells it and have them cut it to what length you want. Depth is limited to standard countertop depth, but that's still a good size. I haven't seen end grain versions of this, but maybe it exists.

When you get it home, put on a dust mask and grab a palm sander. About five minutes of minor effort will remove all the urethane finish. You can then put a couple of coats of oil on it.

I've read a lot about oil on butcher blocks ... most recommendations are against using cooking oil, on the grounds that it becomes rancid. In my own experience, this just isn't true. I've oiled three cutting boards with olive oil since I've owned them--15 years, 12 years, and 10 years respectively. None has developed a rancid odor ever. In fact, after the oil soaks in, they don't even smell like olive oil. The level of protection seems reasonable; none of these boards has warped appreciably or split.

I would be interested in hearing about anyone's experience with polymerizing oils (linseed oil or tung oil), which would presumably create a true protective finish.

[Octaveman]

An excellent, cheap way to get big block is to buy a section of rock maple butcher block counter top. Just go to someone who sells it and have them cut it to what length you want. Depth is limited to standard countertop depth, but that's still a good size. I haven't seen end grain versions of this, but maybe it exists.

I'd be more concerned about thickness as anything less than 3/4" will warp. I know. I've had two cheap edge-grain maple boards warp on me over the years. BTW, I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong but if it's edge-grain it's a cutting board. Butcher blocks are end-grain.

When you get it home, put on a dust mask and grab a palm sander. About five minutes of minor effort will remove all the urethane finish. You can then put a couple of coats of oil on it.

I'd have to buy a sander and sand paper first and at the average cost of $50 plus the cost of the board, I'd rather buy one made by a professional woodworker using better quality wood.

I've read a lot about oil on butcher blocks ... most recommendations are against using cooking oil, on the grounds that it becomes rancid. In my own experience, this just isn't true. I've oiled three cutting boards with olive oil since I've owned them--15 years, 12 years, and 10 years respectively. None has developed a rancid odor ever. In fact, after the oil soaks in, they don't even smell like olive oil. The level of protection seems reasonable; none of these boards has warped appreciably or split.

Given the constant use and cleaning of the board I think I could agree with this. I'm sure these kinds of oils were used for 100's of years spanning generations as it was quite possibly the only oil available in the area. Don't think I would use EVOO or vegatable oil on mine but I see no real reason not too if the board gets used a lot.

I would be interested in hearing about anyone's experience with polymerizing oils (linseed oil or tung oil), which would presumably create a true protective finish.

Wouldn't oils like this remove the antibacterial properties of the board by sealing it? I wonder how hard the surface would become and it's affects on knife edges changing any benefit the board originally had to offer. I wouldn't do it to my boards but that's just me.

[paulraphael]

Standard butcher block countertops are around 2 inches thick ... warping isn't an issue (hasn't been for me anyhow).

I forget what I paid, but it was probably 1/4 to 1/2 the price of a butcher block from the usual channels. I had a sander already, but it would have still been economical to get one (or borrow one) if I didn't.

[Octaveman]

Wow, 2" thick counter? That's a substantial countertop for sure. Thanks for the mentioning this option.

[paulraphael]

I probably exaggerated ... just looked online and it seems the standard thickness is 1-1/2". still pretty fat!

The buliding supply place that cut it for me warned that there would be burn marks on the side from all the friction from the radial saw.

I'm finding a number of places that sell the material unfinished, in sections 25 inches x 8 feet, for under $200.

Edited November 5, 2007 by paulraphael (log)

[Mambwe]

Well, I just got back from a business trip in Nashville and what was waiting for me when I got home? My new Boardsmith butcher block. I got the 16 x 22 Walnut butcher block and this thing is absolutely beautiful. Unless you already have one of his boards you can't imagine how amazing this board looks. I got the walnut because I loved the dark color of the wood and I saw pictures of Octavemans board and loved it.

I haven't had a chance to use it but I will tomorrow. I still need to get some oil to properly season the board. I really am amazed at how nice the board came out. Dave is really a stand up guy and I would advise everyone who is in the market for a cutting board or butcher block to buy a board from dave. I waited about 4 weeks for my board from the day I ordered it to the day I received it. I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

[Octaveman]

Cool!! Look forward to the pics. Also, I kid you not about the board wax that I referenced above. The stuff is amazing. I HIGHLY recommend. I used basic food grade mineral oil for a few soakings and when I got this stuff there was a noticable difference in the quality of the cutting surface. Fantastic stuff.

[Pat W]

My butcher block from The Boardsmith came last week. It took longer than I had expected, but I have to say that it was worth the wait. The only problem with it is that it is almost too beautiful to use. Regrettably, my photos do not do this block justice. It is truly a work of art.

I did take a couple of days to season it & used David's board conditioner for the top coat. David is the nicest guy you could ever hope to deal with. I can't say enough good things about The Boardsmith!

(Even though it's almost too beautiful to use, I am getting immense pleasure out of using it.)

pat w.

[Octaveman]

Gorgeous looking board Pat. Hope you use the hell out of it!! Thanks for posting.

[Fugu]

Has anyone tried these locally made boards? Any feedback on these cutting boards? A little pricier than Boardsmiths'.

Edited December 4, 2007 by Fugu (log)

[halogenic]

I'm in the market for a cutting board, and I'm sick of the cheap-o plastic ones I've been using. However, this is a subject I know nothing about. Any help would be appreciated, or if this is a repeat topic a link will help! Thanks!

[Octaveman]

Anyway, below is the link to an extensive cutting board thread.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=98865&hl=

Regarding the bamboo versus wood question, the main differences are that bamboo is a little harder than your typical maple end grain board and it's surface is pretty slick/sealed. The higher hardness could be harder on your knives but it mostly depends on your knife usage. The sealed nature of the bamboo boards make the sanitation issue a slight problem. End grain wood boards like maple have anti-bacterial properties in that the bacteria if present will die in the fibers of the wood whereas a the bacteria will just sit on top of a sealed or poly or rubber board. But if you wash your board right after use in the sink using hot water then it's not really an issue.

End-grain boards while more expensive are better than edge-grain boards. End-grain have the checkerboard look to them with the wood grain running from top to bottom while edge-grain boards have the grain running from side to side. If you decide on a bamboo board it would be wise to stick with Totally Bamboo brand as they use food safe glue. I've read that not all makers of bamboo boards do so buyer beware.

Bob

Edited January 24, 2008 by Octaveman (log)

[qrn]

I'm in the market for a cutting board, and I'm sick of the cheap-o plastic ones I've been using.  However, this is a subject I know nothing about.  Any help would be appreciated, or if this is a repeat topic a link will help!  Thanks!

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Buy some good 3/4"UHMWPE boards and cut them so they will fit in the D/W In various positions.(vert Horiz etc.) You can get the material at a commericial rest. supply place. (not cheap.) But infinitly better than wood. After you use em, put them in the D/w and they are clean and ready to go in the drawer...I have 6 or 7 in various sizes and thicknesses, and will never use a wooden board again...

This advice is from someone who builds antique reproduction furniture and can build the "state of the art"wood /bamboo, etc boards very easily..

(UHMWPE, is ultra high molecular weight polyethelene)

Bud

[BekkiM]

Wow.  That cutting board is lovely.  I've just added it to the top of my Christmas wish list--and the walnut will complement my new kitchen perfectly!

Question, though--it looks like you got feet on yours.  Are they non-skid enough to keep the board in place when you're working?

And I'd be worried about being squeamish about getting such a beautiful work of art messy--do you use the board for "special occasions" or for everyday chopping.

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My 14x18 walnut cutting board arrived yesterday from Dave (TheBoardSmith)--it is phenomenal. I can't even put it away it the cupboard, because I have an irresitable compulsion to fondle it every time I walk by. The way he matched/pattered the end grain of the walnut is stunning and the heft of the board is something to behold. (Not only that, but he's truly "good people" as my in-laws from Kansas say.) I am in love with my walnut cutting board and can't thank eGullet enough for bringing us together...

[Octaveman]

I'd love to see a picture of it.

[BekkiM]

Ask and ye shall receive...

Here's a detail shot of the end grain pattern I was talking about:

And here's the full board, in all its glory:

[Octaveman]

Holy crap...that's GORGEOUS!!! I'm SOOOO jealous. Dave is definitely the man. when I finally order a 18x24 walnut board I'm going to show him a picture of yours and tell him I want that too. Man, super sweet. Get some of Dave's (not the Boardsmith) Boardwax. It really is great stuff and is what I use. Your board will love it.

Edited February 6, 2008 by Octaveman (log)

[Pam R]

Gorgeous is right! Have you . . used it? I think I'd be scared to cut on it . .

[BekkiM]

Gorgeous is right! Have you . . used it? I think I'd be scared to cut on it . .

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I am definitely scared to use it, plus it seems sacreligous to sully its pristine beauty by slicing up a frozen pizza on it. Right now the plan is to buy some great cheese and salame and have an inaugural wine party with a few close friends. Coming to Denver any time soon?

[Octaveman]

Since people are enjoying their boards from The Boardsmith, I thought I'd post a link to a news article that also includes a little video on David and his board making business.

The Boardsmith at work

Bekki, it would be a shame if you're too ascared to use your board. I can help you out if it burdens you too much to have it laying around unused.

Bob