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Steak Tartare World Cup


Fat Guy

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My vote goes to Korea's yook hwe: shredded raw beef with sesame oil and raw egg yolk. I love the texture of the ribbons of beef -- much more interesting than French steak tartare. I also love the interplay of all the Korean condiments with this dish. A recent rendition at Kang Suh in New York City (Manhattan branch) was a textural marvel, served with strips of crunchy Asian pear.

As a backup, I'd support plear sach ko -- raw beef salad marinated in lemon juice -- from Cambodia. I had a memorable version of this at Phnom Penh restaurant (Chinatown branch) in Vancouver.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Steve,

I agrre with you that yook whe is a tantalizing dish, especially one prepared on Korean home soil. Dining at the Seoul airport food court on a short stop-over earlier this year, the dish had my taste buds fluttering for hours!

As for classical French Steak Tartare, my vote goes to the one served at Les Halles in Montreal. A wonderful preparation tableside made this dish all the more appealing, especially when the waiter preparing the dish asked me what type of anchovies I would like. Type of anchovy, I asked?? Yep - Portuguese whole, spicy Spanish, traditional flat or marinated Italian. Now that was a couple of years ago, but that event will stick with me for awhile.

Also tried horesemeat tartare in Paris at one of the myriad family bistros in the 5ieme arrondissement - quite tasty, not as stringy as some beef tartares I've had over the years.

And you gotta have the heavenly Belgian-style fries served with an accompaniment of mayo. Yum!

John

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  • 2 years later...

Let me see if I can gather a good list of which dishes are exactly in the running for this world cup

steak tartare, France (is it originally from France?)

yuke, Korea

kitfo, Ethiopia

gored gored, Ethiopia

gyu no tataki, Japan

bo tai chanh, Vietnam

carpaccio, Italy

Are only cubed and mixed raw beef dishes in the running?

In terms of conventional dishes I would have to put my vote on Yuke as well. I really enjoy partial freezing skirt steak and grilling it over and extremely hot charcoal fire, chilling it, chopping it, and serving with a little lime and salt. ::drool::

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Let me see if I can gather a good list of which dishes are exactly in the running for this world cup

steak tartare, France (is it originally from France?)

yuke, Korea

kitfo, Ethiopia

gored gored, Ethiopia

gyu no tataki, Japan

bo tai chanh, Vietnam

carpaccio, Italy

Are only cubed and mixed raw beef dishes in the running?

In terms of conventional dishes I would have to put my vote on Yuke as well. I really enjoy partial freezing skirt steak and grilling it over and extremely hot charcoal fire, chilling it, chopping it, and serving with a little lime and salt. ::drool::

Don't forget Kibbe - the Lebanese version as well!

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I got really excited when I saw this thread title, but it turns out it is an old thread and I have already voted!!

My vote wouldn't change though, yook-hwe (yu-ke) is still my favorite. :biggrin:

Kristin Wagner, aka "torakris"

 

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Shall we also add to this list Italian Carne Cruda? Served sometimes with raw veal slices, it is reputedly delicious:

Recipe for making Involtini di carne cruda con Robiola

how safe is it? You know, mad cow and all that
did someone mention mad cow disease? :rolleyes:

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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Let me see if I can gather a good list of which dishes are exactly in the running for this world cup

steak tartare, France (is it originally from France?)

yuke, Korea

kitfo, Ethiopia

gored gored, Ethiopia

gyu no tataki, Japan

bo tai chanh, Vietnam

carpaccio, Italy

Are only cubed and mixed raw beef dishes in the running?

In terms of conventional dishes I would have to put my vote on Yuke as well. I really enjoy partial freezing skirt steak and grilling it over and extremely hot charcoal fire, chilling it, chopping it, and serving with a little lime and salt. ::drool::

Don't forget Kibbe - the Lebanese version as well!

Germany and Austria have a history of steak tartar as well but I don't know the historic timeline associated with its consumption and developemnt there. Does anyone know if, in Europe anyway, there is a known historical progression for the dish between countries like Germany, France and Italy? I've seen some online sources that do speak of the derivation as comng from interaction with Tatar peoples but I couldn't tell how reliable the sources were.

I"ve had it in Austria quite a bit but I can't remember if there are distinct accompaniements that are different from typical French versions. (From what I recall they are pretty similar). One version I have on hand from an older Austrian cookbook has: s&p, raw onion, raw egg, anchovies, capers. Other optional garnishes are beets and pickles.

In any case, I think Germanic restaurants and immigrants were at least one, if not the primary, conduit for bringing and popularizing Beef Tatar or Tartar in the US. From what I've seen it seems to have been a standard item in older 'grand' German restaurants in cities like NY and Chicago, including, for example, Luchow's in NYC.

Thanks for bringing this thread back up. I'm happy to be reminded of the Korean version which I've not yet tried.

Edited by ludja (log)

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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Does anyone know if, in Europe anyway, there is a known historical progression for the dish between countries like Germany, France and Italy?  I've seen some online sources that do speak of the derivation as comng from interaction with Tatar peoples but I couldn't tell how reliable the sources were.

this appears to be reasonably authentic
German sailors especially from Hamburg encountered the dish when in Russia on trading missions. They brought the dish back to Germany where steak tartare became known as tartare steak. It also gained the alternate name of Hamburg steak which became popular amongst the working class. German immigrants brought the dish to the US in the late 18th and early 19th century where the dish became known as a hamburger.

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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My personal favorite was served at "Henri Soule's" Le Pavilion Restaurant in Manhattan.

Everything used in the dish was prepared table side. A whole center cut of closely trimmed "Fillet Mignon" was cut up table side into a fine mince by a service captain then placed in a platter then the shallots, onions and garlic we requested were also minced fine using two knifes, leaf parsley and curly parsley plus the anchovies were also fine cut as well as French gherkins. The Mustard, Egg and other spices and seasonings were then mixed in a bowl with a dash of Brandy and Worcestershire sauce.

This was mixed together into the Chopped Beef with the captain offering to adjust the seasoning after offering a taste on a slice of French Bread before shaping the result into a Silver platter with Greens, chopped hard boiled egg and onion rings thin sliced.

The presentation and way of it being done was due to the fact that it was one of the proprietors favorites.

I have implemented doing it this way in several Restaurants but it was generally discontinued as service staff often wasn't skilled enough to do it correctly.

The other Restaurant that served their own version was "Canlis Restaurant" in Honolulu where it was served on the menu as a appetizer or entree.

"Canlis Haole Sushi" was served with ground to order lean steak shapped into a oval patty with a coating of mayo, diced pickles and chopped fresh ripe tomatos served on a bed of greens. It had a very fresh delcious taste when spread over thin sliced toasted French Bread with some cracked black pepper that was emphasized by the ingredients. We ordered it every time we dined at Canlis.

I have enjoyed the Asian versions including a raw Pork served in Thailand prepared almost the same way the make the beef.

Irwin

I don't say that I do. But don't let it get around that I don't.

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I was told, many many years ago, by a crazy Frenchman that tartar started in Northern Africa when the French were exploring. When they ran out of food they would kill the horses to eat. The General (or top officer) would get the tenderloin of the horse, chopped and served with whatever condiments they had (usually pickled). Citrus was added to clean the flavour of the meat. The horse was eaten raw because fires for cooking would attract the enemy.

To this day I still prefer the horse version over the beef...

Second note: very few restaurants hand cut the beef long enough, or keep the meat cold enough through the process...if these two factors are maintained a superior product is created.

Chef/Owner/Teacher

Website: Chef Fowke dot com

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I have enjoyed the Asian versions including a raw Pork served in Thailand prepared almost the same way the make the beef.

do you know the name of this Thai dish? Raw pork has an offensive odor in my opinion, did the preparation minimize the smell?

It is exciting to learn about these variations! I need to sneak off and nibble some raw bacon.

Edited by _john (log)
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I have enjoyed the Asian versions including a raw Pork served in Thailand prepared almost the same way the make the beef.

do you know the name of this Thai dish? Raw pork has an offensive odor in my opinion, did the preparation minimize the smell?

It is exciting to learn about these variations! I need to sneak off and nibble some raw bacon.

_john:

The "Raw Pork" served in Thailand is "Trichinosis Free" as it's unknown in local raised Pork in most of Asia and only a concern for imported Pork.

The taste is very mild and delicate, even vaguely sweet but in no way offensive. The first time I was served this dish I was only told that it was Pork after I had enjoyed eating it in a Restaurant where I was a guest of some Thai friends. I waited until it was morning in the states and phoned my friend at the USDA to ask about the safety of raw Pork I had consumed. He advised me that if I was sure it was from local freshly slaughtered Pigs it was safe eaten in any manner.

After learning this fact i began experimenting with fresh Pork cooking it with color left and found that it was much more enjoyable, tender and juicer then any well done Pork served in Europe or the States.

In Thailand there are many variations but most are spicy or tart but all enhance the natural character of the meat.

My favorite Bacon for nibbling is made by "Bobak" in Chicago. It's a double smoked Hunters Style Bacon and the double smoking completely cooks the Bacon Slab with a delicious smoky flavor. It taste better then most hams and since it's often not that fatty it lends itself to Salads or enhancing a Sandwich without any cooking.

Irwin

I don't say that I do. But don't let it get around that I don't.

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Irwin:

the thai pork sounds very interesting, I will seek it out when I eventually get to thailand.

I will try anything twice. (okay, maybe three times) :smile:

as for double smoked bacon, it is amazing on its own and is underused as ingredient in my opinion. I have only eaten it "raw". I partially freeze it and slice it as thin as possible and add it to salads and sandwiches. I haven't seen it in Japan yet though...

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