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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, eugenep said:

I live in an apartment and my stove just broke - the main burner. 

 

So I can't sear things etc. anymore. 

 

My landlord likely won't fix it and I was planning to move soon anyway. 

 

I saw on a thread here that the Control Freak by Breville is good. Do you recommend any equipment or ideas? 

 

https://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/breville-smart-cooker/?pkey=s|control freak|1

 

Do you know of anywhere I could get a good price in an emergency situation like this? I hate to buy something not on sale like this but..I"m really desperate (I can't cook anymore). 

 

Thank you

 

Two questions:

 

  (1)  Do you have induction-compatible cookware now?

 

  (2)  Can you get by without a full-power appliance?

 

If you don't have compatible cookware already, you have to factor in that acquisition/discard cost, and you will ultimately have cookware you don't need.  If you don't value your existing cookware, this may be no big deal.

 

If you need a full-power appliance, you will probably be disappointed with a 110VAC/1800W unit like the Control Freak.  Especially so because it costs $1700.  You'd be paying a premium for extreme granularity, with the power of a toaster oven.  IMO, the only reason to sink that long green is if you see a regular use for that kind of limited-power control after you move and again have access to a full-power appliance.  Most people in that situation tide themselves over with a truly inexpensive (e.g., .<$150) induction hotplate with the same power, just fewer settings and no feedback.

 

If you love your non-compatible cookware, but can see yourself using a single-hob induction appliance as a mainstay, I would consider investing in the Panasonic KY-Mk3500 Met-All that I reviewed here recently.  It is a full 240VAC/3500W unit and "works" with non-magnetic cookware.  It is likely a plug-in swap in your apartment (maybe with an adapter) for your dying electric range.  I found mine for $611.  It only has 20 settings, but that is actually a lot.

 

Or, what about buying a cheap contractor-grade full-size range to tide you over?  You can buy 2-3 of those for what you'd spend on the Control Freak.  Tell your Sh&*bird landlord to come get his broken range for disposal, and you'll take yours with you.

Edited by boilsover (log)
  • Like 2
Posted
27 minutes ago, gfweb said:

Breville Smart Oven or Cuisineart Steam Oven and a hot plate. Way cheaper than the control freak.  If you need an oven the CF won’t do. 

I would second this idea.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Okanagancook said:

I would second this idea.

 

I have been mulling a product idea for some time.  What would be the interest of members here in owning a BSO-type counterrtop small oven combined with a very precise and even small cooktop built into the top housing surface?  Worth having?

Posted
50 minutes ago, CanadianHomeChef said:

Hey. I started the Control Freak thread. Got my first one in the summer  and my second one in the fall. Got both for a steal on eBay, but that was rare. I had been folllowing the price for 2 years and never saw it budge. 

 

 

I do know TesTek was selling the Canadian version for around $1700CAD which is a savings. Only difference I know between the US and Canadian one is it requires 20amp outlet. 

I needed to ask - do you think it will last a few years or so? I was worried about paying the high price for something that might break later. I read your thread and was very impressed by your posts and always thought about getting one. Now I have an excuse I guess. I don't mind paying the premium for design but...just worried it might break eventually without my getting the benefit of a longer use that makes it worth it etc. 

Posted
38 minutes ago, boilsover said:

 

Two questions:

 

  (1)  Do you have induction-compatible cookware now?

 

  (2)  Can you get by without a full-power appliance?

 

If you don't have compatible cookware already, you have to factor in that acquisition/discard cost, and you will ultimately have cookware you don't need.  If you don't value your existing cookware, this may be no big deal.

 

If you need a full-power appliance, you will probably be disappointed with a 110VAC/1800W unit like the Control Freak.  Especially so because it costs $1700.  You'd be paying a premium for extreme granularity, with the power of a toaster oven.  IMO, the only reason to sink that long green is if you see a regular use for that kind of limited-power control after you move and again have access to a full-power appliance.  Most people in that situation tide themselves over with a truly inexpensive (e.g., .<$150) induction hotplate with the same power, just fewer settings and no feedback.

 

If you love your non-compatible cookware, but can see yourself using a single-hob induction appliance as a mainstay, I would consider investing in the Panasonic KY-Mk3500 Met-All that I reviewed here recently.  It is a full 240VAC/3500W unit and "works" with non-magnetic cookware.  It is likely a plug-in swap in your apartment (maybe with an adapter) for your dying electric range.  I found mine for $611.  It only has 20 settings, but that is actually a lot.

 

Or, what about buying a cheap contractor-grade full-size range to tide you over?  You can buy 2-3 o those for what you'd spend on the Control Freak.  Tell your Sh&*bird landlord to come get his broken range for disposal, and you'll take yours with you.

 

I have D5 all clad, cast iron, carbon steel, and staub cast iron dutch ovens and braisers. I think they all work for induction maybe? 

 

Also, are you sure the Control Freak couldn't sear (like a steak)? The heat is very important to me. Thank you. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, boilsover said:

 

I have been mulling a product idea for some time.  What would be the interest of members here in owning a BSO-type counterrtop small oven combined with a very precise and even small cooktop built into the top housing surface?  Worth having?

The burner might be too high and present a safety issue.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Okanagancook said:

The burner might be too high and present a safety issue.

 

Well, assuming the unit is mounted low enough that the surface is at counter height,  would you ind that a useful feature?  I'm thinking, if people like using the BSO rather than firing their "real" oven, why not do the same with the hob?

Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, boilsover said:

 

I have been mulling a product idea for some time.  What would be the interest of members here in owning a BSO-type counterrtop small oven combined with a very precise and even small cooktop built into the top housing surface?  Worth having?

Hmmm. It would be great in a dorm or a boat or tiny house. Not sure it solves a problem that many have. I use the heck out of the BSO but still need a real range. I think the success of a unit like this would require a rethinking of how a kitchen works and is designed. 

Edited by gfweb (log)
Posted
Just now, gfweb said:

Hmmm. It would be great in a dorm or tiny house. Not sure it solves a problem that many have. I use the heck out of the BSO but still need a real range. 

 

Well, you would be saving energy the same way you save it with the oven.  And you would have a fully portable alternative/auxillary  to the range..  That surface is wasted as it is. 

Posted
1 minute ago, boilsover said:

 

Well, you would be saving energy the same way you save it with the oven.  And you would have a fully portable alternative/auxillary  to the range..  That surface is wasted as it is. 

My interest is speed and convenience. Saving energy is an afterthought. If I already have a range, and who doesn’t, what would this add?

Posted
50 minutes ago, gfweb said:

Breville Smart Oven or Cuisineart Steam Oven and a hot plate. 

 

They are what I use.

Breville BOV845BSS Smart Oven Pro

Cuisinart CB-30 Cast-Iron Single Burner

I recommend two hot plates, the second need not be as "fancy."

The cast iron burner is slow to cool down. so the second hotplate is set at a lower temperature—when that scenario is needed.

I often use a 3/8" aluminum plate on top of the cast iron burner so I can use larger pans without it bothering the sides of the hot plate.

Not a big deal!

Works for me!

  • Like 2

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

Posted
17 minutes ago, eugenep said:

I have D5 all clad, cast iron, carbon steel, and staub cast iron dutch ovens and braisers. I think they all work for induction maybe? 

 

Also, are you sure the Control Freak couldn't sear (like a steak)? The heat is very important to me. Thank you. 

 

That's all compatible. 

 

Oh, you won't starve...  You can sear a steak with 1800W.  But if, for instance, you want to cook 2 steaks in your carbon steel pan, the pan itself doesn't store nearly enough heat to do a good job of searing both sides--you will likely steam/grey the 2nd side.  Full power hobs allow you to pump in a lot more heat at the flop.

 

Most electric coil ranges are 2400W, and even they are iffy for searing.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, boilsover said:

BSOs don't preheat all that much faster than a real oven, IMO.  And from the perspective of ease of use and access, I don't find them as convenient, either.

 

Your experience is polar opposite of mine.

  • Like 1

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, DiggingDogFarm said:

 

Your experience is polar opposite of mine.

 

Hmmm, I just timed my 800XL Pro's (my third one, BTW) preheat time from room temp to 400F.  It's almost exactly 5 minutes.  I'll have to time my fullsize oven when I get back from the cabin,, but I don't think it takes a lot longer than that.

 

I also find adjusting and withdrawing the racks (other than the middle one fitted with the magnet) to be a semi-hazardous PITA.  And don't get me started about that funky thumbwheel mode knob or the long toast times.

Edited by boilsover (log)
Posted
1 hour ago, eugenep said:

I needed to ask - do you think it will last a few years or so? I was worried about paying the high price for something that might break later. I read your thread and was very impressed by your posts and always thought about getting one. Now I have an excuse I guess. I don't mind paying the premium for design but...just worried it might break eventually without my getting the benefit of a longer use that makes it worth it etc. 

It’s got a “built like a tank” feel to it. All the plugins (usb and probe) are protected by flaps that seal when in use and out of use. I’ve had milk accidentally boil over once (I forgot I changed it to Celsius and inputted a Fahrenheit temp 🤦‍♂️). Boiled all over the controls and made a mess on the floor. No damage to the electronics (it’s all pretty flush and nowhere for liquids to seap in). I feel that it’ll last me a long time, but I guess you can never be sure. When I was interested in the product, I had the same concerns. But I jumped on it when it was on eBay for a great price. Knowing what I know now, if I lost my Control Freaks to a fire, I wouldn’t hesitate replacing it with one (two at full price would be stretching my wallet a lot). 

 

I’ve never seen a broken one for sale for parts. Never read about one in forums (and I’ve scoured the internet looking for other people to share techniques with). 

 

To answer your question about searing in your other post. I have no issues. I use All Clad D7 which helps spread the heat and hold onto it , but it’s only marginally better than triply. What I really like is that I can crank the heat past the smoke point (~470 - can’t recall the exact max temp). Add oil. Quickly add a steak.  The pan will lose some heat because of the steak and you get real feedback. I immediately change the temp to just below the smoke point. That way you get the hottest pan without smoking your oil. 

 

Hope this was helpful. I was very skeptical about what a 1800 watt unit could do. But this thing blows any $150 unit out of the water. 

 

Ps. Don’t buy the Tasty One Top. I bought one last winter because I didn’t want to spend the big bucks.  While it works the same in theory, it’s absolute trash. Also you have to use your phone; the on-site controls on the Control Freak make it much easier to use whenever.  And the programs are pretty nifty (but eventually you memorize that you like your eggs at 248f, much to the laughter of others). 

  • Like 2

Sizzle and Sear

Owner/Editor

https://www.sizzleandsear.com/

Posted
19 minutes ago, boilsover said:

I also find adjusting and withdrawing the racks (other than the middle one fitted with the magnet) to be a semi-hazardous PITA.

 

Not a big deal with a simple, inexpensive push/pull.

  • Like 2

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

Posted
1 hour ago, eugenep said:

I have D5 all clad, cast iron, carbon steel, and staub cast iron dutch ovens and braisers. I think they all work for induction maybe? 

 

Also, are you sure the Control Freak couldn't sear (like a steak)? The heat is very important to me. Thank you. 

 

Check the price for the Control Freak on Massdrop, too.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, CanadianHomeChef said:

Ps.  I might sear a steak this weekend. If I do, I’ll film it for you. 

mucho appreciate it. I'm trying to purchase and avoid the $120 state tax by purchasing from JB Prince. I guess we'll see. The strength of your recommendation convinced me that it's a good buy that I won't regret after purchase and using it. I just hope it'll last at least 5 years before it goes kaput. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, boilsover said:

 

Sorry, but buying, storing, retrieving and cleaning another unitasker, only to have to put it down and pick up the side towels or 'holders doesn't exactly fit my definition of 'convenient'.

 

To each his own.

Mine doesn't get dirty.

It's stored in the most convenient place, it rests mostly under the oven and the silicone clamshell holders sit right beside it—and I'm able to use BOTH hands! :D

It's a great convenience for less than $6.

 

  • Like 2

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

Posted
2 hours ago, boilsover said:

 

I have been mulling a product idea for some time.  What would be the interest of members here in owning a BSO-type counterrtop small oven combined with a very precise and even small cooktop built into the top housing surface?  Worth having?

 

I have the CSO instead of the BSO, but I use the top of the oven for warming serving dishes while in use, so that surface is not wasted to me.

 

My biggest concern with the arrangement you suggest, though is that all the stove tops I have used come with backsplashes and exhaust fans for serious cooking. Cooking meats in an open pan creates a hellacious mess that I would not want to do against the sheetrock wall where my CSO is currently placed. I think you need easy to clean areas around a stove top and a means of exhausting grease or smoke for any serious meat cooking.

 

But yeah, might work in a pinch for a dorm or something where you were only boiling stuff. Even then, I wonder whether the electronics of the oven would survive the first stove top  boil over. I despise a boil over even on a stove that is engineered to handle it. There's a raised lip all the way around my ancient GE stove top, but the runoff goes underneath the electric elements and heat shields. Another hellacious cleanup. 

 

I would not buy it. Just sayin'.

  • Like 2

> ^ . . ^ <

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, boilsover said:

 

Well, assuming the unit is mounted low enough that the surface is at counter height,  would you ind that a useful feature?  I'm thinking, if people like using the BSO rather than firing their "real" oven, why not do the same with the hob?

A BSO and CSO are countertop appliances hence my thought that the hot plate would be high.  I would rather just use my gas burner and not dirty up the outside of the countertop oven with the splatter from a top element.

And that is all I have to add to this idea.

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, boilsover said:

I have been mulling a product idea for some time.  What would be the interest of members here in owning a BSO-type counterrtop small oven combined with a very precise and even small cooktop built into the top housing surface? 

 

Several similar designs already exist. I wouldn't want one. I like the portability of the hotplate(s).

  • Like 1

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

Posted
2 hours ago, DiggingDogFarm said:

 

Several similar designs already exist. I wouldn't want one. I like the portability of the hotplate(s). 

 

Got links?  Thanks.

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