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JoNorvelleWalker

Methode Rotuts

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So  So  Soooooooooooo

 

should there be one  ( pre-MR  :biggrin: )  try the ChileChard

 

a bit of more white Whine falvor

 

just saying ...............

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An exciting experiment tonight!  Rather than three CO2 cylinders as recommended by MC, I made my M.R. with just two cylinders.

 

The M.R. was fully charged to my taste.  Maybe if one was making soda three cylinders would help.  But why have soda if one can have M.R.?

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Tonight, as a further experiment,  I made my M.R. from just one cylinder.  It came out perfectly satisfactory.  The bubbles were more like Champagne.  Less hazard of asphyxiation during dinner.  Plus one CO2 cylinder is approximately one third the cost of three CO2 cylinders.

 

Still, three cylinder M.R. is something to be experienced.

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Ive always used one.  However Im on the cheap frugal side most of the time

 

esp. if you wait for the one cylinder to 'mix it up' in the container.

 

mine is 0.75 L.

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To go with an outstanding pork chop I splurged again on Ryan Patrick Washington state "naked chardonnay" 2012, no oak.  Running on all cylinders.

 

While Ryan Patrick reminds me slightly more of the leading bubbly, I am still perfectly delighted to inhale my mrified soave.

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http://winefolly.com/tutorial/40-wine-descriptions/

 

""  

BUTTERY A wine with buttery characteristics has been aged in oak and generally is rich and flat (less Acidity). A buttery wine often has a cream-like texture that hits the middle of your tongue almost like oil (or butter) and has a smooth finish.  ""

 

http://www.logabottle.com/home/wineguide.php?n=Buttery&t=1&id=75&gc=2

 

 

"""  Buttery

 

tweet_this_blue.png   facebook_share_taller.png

Wine Tasting Term

A buttery wine either tastes of butter in the mouth or leaves a buttery aftertaste once the wine is swallowed. It has a rich, creamy texture and a smooth finish, much like liquid butter. 

The flavor of butter in a wine is the result of an oak (not steel) barrel fermentation process and extended contact time with yeasts. However, due to the tannins and other overpowering characteristics of oak-barreled red wines, a butter flavor is nearly exclusive to white wines. 

A buttery taste is most common in oak-barreled Chardonnays and white Burgundy wines."""

 

 

 

to me though Oak-ey is not the same a buttery, ie some 'buttery' wines dont taste at all Oak-ey to me

 

and most Oak-ey wines dont taste buttery.

 

just saying.

I missed this when it was first posted.

 

The creamy flavour/texture in chardonnay is created by Malo-Lactic fermentation. This changes malic acid (think green apple acid) to lactic acid (milk) which is rounder, less sharp and, well, creamy/milky tasting.

 

The butter flavour in Chardonnay comes from an aroma compound called diacetyl which has an intensely buttery flavour and comes from oak maturation. It is used as a flavouring in butter popcorn, butterscotch, etc as well as occurring in beer and, of course, oaked wine.

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Nick Reynolds, aka "nickrey"

"The Internet is full of false information." Plato
My eG Foodblog

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As I read it, the talk above was about Chardonnay.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by the leading bubbly. Up until the middle of last century all Champagne houses used oak barrels in the traditional method of using champagne. But these were typically very large barrels reused many times, which means very little oak character in the resultant wine. The base wine used to make Champagne can come from many sources and some houses when making their premium Champagnes use a proportion of wine that has been fermented in oak. This is normally used to give a toasty element to the wine.

 

Wine used to make champagne is typically high in acid and low in alcohol, which is the kind of wine made in areas such as Champagne in which the climate makes it difficult to fully ripen grapes. Malolactic fermentation, if used to settle the acidity of the wine, would be done during this stage. It is then given a dose of sugar and yeast to create a second fermentation, which is where the bubbles are formed. The Champagne has a crown seal applied (like a beer bottle) and it is then stored in an angled position so that the sediment thrown during the fermentation process settles down into the neck of the bottle. The bottles are riddled (shaken slightly and turned) to ensure that the sediments settles well. The sediment is called lees. Leaving it on the lees, which is in essence dead yeast gives a bready character to the wine (often described as yeasty, ready, or brioche like). Each bottle is then lowered into a freezing bath to freeze the lees. Then the wine is disgorged by removing the crown seal (the carbon dioxide pressure in the bottle forces the frozen lees out). A dose of wine or sweetened wine is then added to give the Champagne its character.

 

The transfer method processes used to make sparkling wine sees the base wine undergoing a secondary fermentation in bottles without being riddled. The bottles are then emptied it into a tank under pressure where it is filtered, dosed and then rebottled. This method is cheaper than the traditional method because it doesn't involve the manual process of riddling.

 

The tank method does all the secondary fermentation in the stainless steel tank and proceeds as for the transfer method. Sekt and Prosecco are examples of this style of sparkling wine. It is also used to produce other cheap sparkling wines elsewhere in the world.

 

Sweet sparkling wine does the ferment in a sealed pressured tank and interrupts fermentation by chilling the wine. The resultant sweet, low alcohol wine is fizzy. Examples include Moscato d'Asti.

 

Champagne is a high acid wine that takes a toll on the teeth of tasters.

 

My reading of this is that to achieve an acidic sparkling wine that is complex rather than simple, you'd probably need to mix a few wines together to use in making Methode Rotuts wine. It is interesting to see Muscadet being used as often this is kept on the lees to give the wine a more complex character.

 

If I were trying to make this, I'd probably used an unoaked Chardonnay, some of the Muscadet sur lie, another very highly acidic white wine (Chablis or Petit Chablis), and a small proportion of an oaky Chardonnay.

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Nick Reynolds, aka "nickrey"

"The Internet is full of false information." Plato
My eG Foodblog

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Interesting, thanks.  Much room for future experimentation.  By "leading bubbly" I meant, of course, Champagne but I did not want to get sued.

 

Unfortunately good Chablis is so wonderful (and so expensive) I don't think I'd want to use it for M.R.

 

...as much as I like M.R.

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I tried a Chablis from TJ's   ( it was from FR ) and oddly it had no Chablis flavor what so ever, so it got taken back

 

indeed Im a big fan of Chablis  it would be my go to white if there was some that was 'affordable'  TJ's used to have two ( from FR )  one 9.99 the other 12.99 from the same

 

maker  they were excellent, with the 13 being more complex but the 10 was nightly fine

 

the one they now carry might be from a different maker and it had less going on for it that the TJ's Chard from Chile.

 

odd

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I tried a Chablis from TJ's   ( it was from FR ) and oddly it had no Chablis flavor what so ever, so it got taken back

 

indeed Im a big fan of Chablis  it would be my go to white if there was some that was 'affordable'  TJ's used to have two ( from FR )  one 9.99 the other 12.99 from the same

 

maker  they were excellent, with the 13 being more complex but the 10 was nightly fine

 

the one they now carry might be from a different maker and it had less going on for it that the TJ's Chard from Chile.

 

odd

Do they notice that they sold you a still and you brought back a bubbly?

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After generous M.R. for dinner I wish I could afford a still...I'd be making rum.*

 

 

*Edit:  if I lived in New Zealand, of course.


Edited by JoNorvelleWalker (log)

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One can cobble together a small scale still with lab glassware and an Anova.... I bet for under $100 if you have the anova.

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It's not easy to enjoy a liter of MR following one's mai tai.  Horrible hiccups.  Not to mention a plastic tasting triple cream brie.  Very expensive plastic tasting triple cream brie.

 

What's worse, my MR rotutsed all over the tablecloth.  I splurged for a Baccarat flute tonight rather than my usual Baccarat large water goblet.

 

Fortunately the bread was very good.

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MR always taste better in Baccarat.

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In retrospect, by the warm light of afternoon, it wasn't just the Baccarat.  Last night I had wondered (briefly) why my CO2 cylinders were silver and why the wine was sweet.  I had an awful lot of unintentionally merry bubbles.

 

That being said, N2O MR might work quite well in a florodora imperial style. 

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What's worse, my MR rotutsed all over the tablecloth.

 

 

LOL. This term shall live-on.

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Im missing a bit here

 

Im pretty much "Standard'  on the M.Rotuts

 

did you ( Heee Heee ) make a N2O  semi-rotuts ?

 

Hee Hee

 

we might call that  a " JoNo "

 

Hee Hee


Edited by rotuts (log)
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Tonight I made a point to grab the yellow cylinders.  (Somehow my cylinders seem to be all mixed together, and I have hundreds of them.)   Dinner wasn't nearly so much fun but the tablecloth thanks me for it.  And unlike last night I finished my MR with no hiccups and just a burp or two.  N2O makes for a wicked MR, particularly when it is unexpected.

 

For water in an iSi Dave Arnold suggests two CO2 cylinders to one of N2O.  But why drink water when there is MR?

 

 

Of course the difference may be that tonight my mai tai was brown while last night it was white.

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      Chef Grant’s initial idea to use a metal bubble ring and heat gun (normally used for stripping paint) to form the bubbles does not work as hoped. Attempts to fashion them by hand also come up short.
      Says Grant, “At Trio we tried a hair-dryer. When Martin told me about these heat guns which get up to 900 degrees F, I thought we had it for sure. If it was easy everyone would do it I guess.” Eventually, Alinea partner Nick Kokonas garners the task’s best result by positioning a small, warm blob of sugar onto the end of a drinking straw and blowing into the other end. The results are promising. Curtis suggests using a sugar pump to inflate the orbs. That adjustment will be attempted on another day.
      “We intentionally position whimsical bite in the amuse slot, it tends to break the ice and make people laugh. It is a deliberate attempt to craft the experience by positioning the courses in a very pre-meditated order. A great deal of thought goes into the order of the courses, a misalignment may really take away from the meal as a whole.” For PB&J, the grapes are peeled while still on the vine and then dipped into unsweetened peanut butter. They are allowed to set–up, and then they are wrapped with a thin sheet of bread and lightly toasted. When the peeled grapes warm, they become so soft they mimic jelly. The composition is strangely unfamiliar in appearance but instantly reminiscent on the palate. PB&J is, according to Grant, virtually ready for service. There are a couple of aesthetic elements, which need minor tweaks but the Chef feels very good about today’s prototype.

      Chef John peels grapes while still on their stems

      Peeled grapes on their stems with peanut butter coating

      Chef Grant studies the completed PB&J in the Crucial Detail designed piece

      PB&J
      Often, creative impulses come by way of Alinea’s special purveyors. “Terra Spice’s support over the past couple of years has been unprecedented, and it has accelerated with the start of the food lab,” says Grant. “It is great to have relationships with people that think like we do, it can make the creative process so much easier. Often Phil, our contact at Terra, would come into the kitchen at Trio and encourage us to try and stump him on obscure ingredients. We always lost, but not from lack of trying. He even brought in two live chufa plants into the kitchen one day.” The relationship has developed and Terra team has really made an effort to not only search out products that the chefs ask for but also keep an eye out for new ingredients and innovations. In August, Phil brought by some samples of products that he thought the Alinea team might be interested in trying.

      Phil of Terra Spice showing the team some samples

      Coconut powder and other samples
      Grant recalls “the most surprising item to me was the dried coconut powder. When I put a spoonful in my mouth I could not believe the intense flavor and instant creamy texture, it was awesome.” That was the inspiration for what is now Instant Tropical Pudding. The guest is presented with a glass filled with dried ingredients. A member of the service team pours a measured amount of coconut water into the glass and instructs the guest to stir the pudding until a creamy consistency is formed.

      The rum-spiked coconut water being added to the powders
      At the end of the day, the Chefs assess their overall effort as having gone “fairly well.” It’s a mixed bag of results. Clearly, the fact that things have not gone perfectly on Day 1 has not dampened anyone’s spirits. The team has purposely attempted dishes of varying degrees of difficultly in order to maximize their productivity. Says Grant, “Making a bubble of caramel filled with powder…I have devoted the better part of fifteen years to this craft, I have trained with the best chefs alive. I have a good grasp of known technique. The lab's purpose is to create technique based on our vision. Sometimes we will succeed, and sometimes we will fail, but trying is what make us who we are." The team's measured evaluations of their day’s work reflect that philosophy.
      According to Chef Grant, “The purpose of the lab is to create the un-creatable. I know the level at which we can cook. I know the level of technique we already possess. What I am interested in is what we don't know...making a daydream reality.” With little more than 100 days on the calendar between now and Alinea’s opening, the Chef and his team will have their work cut out for them.
      =R=
      A special thanks to eGullet member yellow truffle, who contributed greatly to this piece
    • By ronnie_suburban
      Sometime this week, at an undisclosed location in the city of Chicago, Chef Grant Achatz begins the next leg of his journey to open his new restaurant, Alinea. Grant will christen the 'food lab' where the menu for Alinea will be developed. eGullet will be trailing Grant and his team throughout the process -- not just in the food lab but through every facet of the launch. Over the next six months, we will follow the Alinea team as they discover, develop, design and execute their plan. We'll document behind-the-scenes communications, forwarded directly to us by the Alinea team. We will be on the scene, bringing regular updates to the eGullet community. And Grant will join us in this special Alinea forum to discuss the process of opening Alinea. eGullet members will have the opportunity to ask Grant, and several other members of the Alinea team, questions about the development of the restaurant.
       
      A Perfect Pairing?
      By the time he was 12 years old, Grant Achatz knew that he would someday run his own restaurant. The story of Alinea is the story of Grant's personal development as a chef and a leader. Grant was brought up in a restaurant family. He bypassed a college education in favor of culinary school, after which he ascended rapidly to the position of sous chef for Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in Yountville, California. In 2001, Grant took the helm of Trio in Evanston, Illinois, which had previously turned out such noted chefs as Gale Gand, Rick Tramanto (Tru) and Shawn McClain (Spring, Green Zebra). In 2003 Grant won the James Beard Foundation's "Rising Star Chef" award, and other prestigious awards followed. By 2004, Grant was recognized as one of the most influential and unique voices on the international culinary scene.
       
      In January 2004, Grant met Nick Kokonas, a successful entrepreneur who was so obsessed with haute cuisine that he had traveled the world in search of it. After globe-trekking specifically to eat at such culinary meccas as Alfonso 1890, Taillevent, Arpège, Arzak, and the French Laundry, Nick was in near disbelief when he realized that the "best food in the world was 10 minutes from my house." Nick had not previously consideredbacking a restaurant, even though he has both relatives and friends in the industry. But in Grant, he saw an opportunity to help create something great.
       
      Through Grant's cuisine, a bond formed between the two men. So inspired was Nick by Grant's culinary ideas that he returned to Trio almost monthly. Finally, he challenged two of his friends, one from New York and the other from San Francisco, to fly to Chicago and experience Trio. He wanted to prove definitively to his skeptical, coastal buddies that Trio was the best and most important restaurant in the country, assuring them that "if the meal at Trio isn't the best meal you've ever had, I'll pay for your meals and your flights." Nick won his bet: his friends were blown away.
       
      Later that night, after service, Grant joined Nick and his guests at their table. The men chatted about a variety of topics and in the '14 wines' haze of the late evening, they discussed Blue Trout and Black Truffles: The Peregrinations of an Epicure, Joseph Wechsberg's gastronomic memoir. The next day, Grant emailed Nick to ask again about the title of the book they had discussed. Not only did Nick remind him, but, within a few days, sent Grant a copy of Wechsberg's book. A friendship was born.
      Shortly thereafter, Grant sentNick his business plan for Alinea, sending an email after evening service. By the following morning Nick had read it and replied with his own enthusiastic amendments. With a burgeoning friendship already in place, trust developing between the two men and proof they could work together crystallizing before their eyes, it became clear that they would become a team. Says Grant, "I think most people, in a lot of ways, look for themselves in other people in order to match with and I think to a large degree, the reason why we get along so well is that our personalities align very well."
       
      Nick felt the same way. "It's one of those situations where everything just lined up right. I had the interest, I'd started a number of different businesses and I felt like it would be an opportunity to work with someone who I'd get along with very well. I wouldn't want to build a restaurant just to build a restaurant and I doubt I'll ever develop some other restaurant. I think this is the right situation at the right time."
       
      Grant adds, "I think we're both very driven and passionate people. So for me, it was about finding someone I could trust, someone that I knew was going to think like me, be as motivated or more motivated than me. Those things were very, very important--and something I hadn't seen--or something I didn't believe in--that I saw in Nick." Nick continues, "I think a lot people come to a chef with their pre-existing vision of the restaurant they want to build. I didn't even want to build a restaurant before I saw his vision, so it wasn't like I was saying 'I'm building this restaurant and I want you to be my chef' -- it was more like 'I think you should build a restaurant, what can I do to help you build it?'" Grant would have the additional supportive backing he'd need and Nick would have another venture -- and one he solidly believed in -- in which to direct his business acumen.
       
      It's All About The Container
      Anyone who's eaten Grant's cuisine at Trio knows that he is intensely concerned with food and the optimal ways to prepare and serve it. His dishes innovate in flavor; they challenge, tease and delight the senses. But Grant is also driven to innovate in service and technique, constantly seeking new vehicles to deliver sensations to the diner. He works closely with a trusted collaborator, Martin Kastner of Crucial Detail in San Diego, CA to create original service pieces for many of his dishes. And as Grant has searched for additional ways to expand the continuity of the dining experience, it has become clear to him that it starts before the diner even gets to the restaurant's front door.
       
      According to Grant, "You can pull it back as far as you want. The experience is going to start before someone even picks up the phone to make a reservation to this restaurant. It's going to be about their perceptions; why are they picking up the phone to make a reservation? What did they see? What did they read? What's leading them up to that point? They call to make a reservation, that's another experience. The drive to get to this neighborhood is another experience. The minute they open their door and take one step out of their car, now they're surrounded by another experience."
       
      Advancing the functional elements of how food is served is an innate part of the cooking process for Grant, who seeks to render the traditional boundaries of dining obsolete. When asked what he will be able to accomplish at Alinea that he couldn't accomplish at Trio, Grant says, "the obvious is to create the container in which we create the experience. I think that's the very exciting thing for me that I've never been able to have a part in." For Grant, a restaurant's physical space represents the ultimate container and the ultimate personal challenge. The result should break new ground in the world of fine dining.   Grant and Nick are intense and competitive. In both their minds, "crafting a complete experience" is the primary focus of Alinea. According to Nick, "the whole idea is to produce an experience where the food lines up with the décor, which lines up with the flow through the restaurant and from the moment you get, literally, to the front door of the place and you walk in, your experience should mirror in some respects--and complement in others--the whole process you're going to go through when you start eating." Grant takes it a step further. "It's about having a central beacon from which everything else emanates and therefore, it's seamless. The whole experience is crafted on one finite point and if everything emanates from that point, then there's no chance that the experience can be interrupted."
       
      The search for Alinea's space further reflects not only their shared philosophy but also their separate intensities. Says Nick, "One of the things we felt really strongly about, and we both came to it, was that we wanted it to be a 'stand alone' building because if you're in something else you can't help but take on some of that identity. And it's really difficult to find the right size building in the right kind of location, with the right kind of construction that was suitable for the identity of Alinea."
      Nick and Grant drove down every street within a chosen geographical band, armed with a giant map and a set of green, yellow and red markers. Once they had found a set of acceptable streets, they asked a realtor to show them every space available on them.
       
      "Once we did find the building," says Grant, "whichever space we would have chosen, we would have analyzed and considered each different aspect to provoke a certain emotion, a very controlled emotion depending on how we wanted it arranged. But I also think that we wanted the neighborhood to feel a certain way, the street to feel a certain way. Is it like Michigan Avenue where I have people 4-deep, walking straight down the sidewalk, non-stop, all day and all night or is it more of a tranquil environment outside? All those things were spinning around and once you identify the golden egg, then you have to go find it."
      While they would probably never admit it, each innovation, each step they take together in building their venture serves as yet another a opportunity for the Alinea team to challenge the restaurant's competitors. Their attention to all the details provides countless opportunities to distinguish Alinea from other restaurants.
       
      Here the two men can share in the creation, combining their diverse skills and experiences into a unified and shared vision. Alinea will be their baby. They want it to be the best --not just the best food -- but the best everything. They even want the experience of calling for a reservation to be a memorable one.
       
      The Path From Here
      In that spirit, the Alinea food lab opens this week. Grant refuses to promote even one of his legendary creations to 'signature dish' status. Instead of populating Alinea's menu with previous favorites from Trio or 'trial' dishes that have been only roughly tested, Grant and his team will take six months to devise, develop and perfect the dishes and delivery modes that will appear on Alinea's opening menu. When the idea of maintaining a kitchen staff for six months before the restaurant's opening was presented to its investors, in spite of the additional expense, "it seemed like a no-brainer" according to Nick. Grant is an equity partner--a true chef/owner--in the venture and there is a solid consensus among all the backers about the priority of his vision.
      * * * * *
      In addition to being one of today's foremost chefs and culinary innovators, Grant Achatz is a long-time member of eGullet, and a lively, provocative contributor to our discussion forums. Read his March, 2003 eGullet Q&A here.
      Photos courtesy Alinea
       
      eGullet member, yellow_truffle, also contributed to this report
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