Best Scrambled Eggs: 2011 and beyond

[avaserfi]

In the name of science I did an experiment tonight. Okay, not really science, more that I wanted to. Earlier in the day, I butchered a pig's head. This pig was put down via the electrical stun method, rather than a captive bolt like the last I had. This means I got pig brains out of the deal. I just had to saw through to get it.

Tonight for dessert I scrambled up some eggs with the brain. I sauteed some shallots in pig fat, added the brain and cooked for a minute or so then lowered the heat and added a couple eggs and a little bit of cheese. Slow cooked stirring constantly until ready, served on some rye garnished with chives.

This was my first experience eating and cooking with brain and I didn't do any research, just hopped in the kitchen. It turned out pretty well. The eggs were extremely creamy, more so than I am used to, but there was a slight lumpiness from the brains. I'm guessing some of the fat melted causing the extra creaminess. Also, the curds were much smaller than normal for me, slightly larger than black caviar. The brain's flavor was clear similar to sweetbreads in that it tasted very much like it came from an animal (I don't know how else to put it), but creamier. Maybe not the best scrambled egg, but certainly worth trying. Next time I will halve the brain and brown one side then pour the eggs around it. That way the brain will be the star rather than hidden within the eggs.

[johnnyd]

That's magnificent, andrew. And talk about fresh.

Finally found the NYC restaurant with the killer scrambled eggs: Elaine's.

Her Recipe Here - NYT.

[BadRabbit]

I ate brains and eggs a lot growing up until the day that I learned what the dish really was. My mother told me it was ham and eggs until I was about 10 years old. I stopped eating them for 15 years afterwards before rediscovering them. Delicious.

Edited May 23, 2011 by BadRabbit (log)

[Marya D.]

I would so much like to see Andiesenji's eggs go head to head with Nero Wolf's, that I just might do it myself.

[Marya D.]

Utterly lacking in ingenuity, tonight's dinner was straight from the Daily Gullet. Nero Wolf's scrambled eggs with Copper River Salmon.

Unable to wait for Meijer, I got the Fish at Giant Eagle for 19.99/lb.

I used the heat of the eggs to cook the fish.

Herbs from the garden, no sauce.

[Jaymes]

I would so much like to see Andiesenji's eggs go head to head with Nero Wolf's, that I just might do it myself.

I, too, am interested in trying Andiesenji's method.

But I will compare it with the way I was taught years ago, and that I have always used, and that I mentioned upthread.

Which is not to add water, or cream, or the rest of it until the end. And that's when you finish them with the cream.

Gordon Ramsey uses creme fraiche.

Gordon Ramsey perfect scrambled eggs

That sounds wonderful. Perhaps in my "head to head" test, I'll use the creme fraiche instead of the regular heavy cream or half and half I've always used.

[ChefCrash]

Roasted marrow in the eggs and on the side:)

No cream or water.

[Deus Mortus]

Oh dear god, marrow and eggs, you sir are a genius! I am going to try this straight away, that sounds so bloody good!

[nickrey]

I've been looking at the picture of scrambled eggs on the breakfast thread and can see definite preferences emerging in terms of how people like their eggs.

Some prefer a larger grain, some a smaller. The smaller is more traditionally French. The French are also cooked to a more runny or moist texture. I'm thinking that it is something like a preference for runny versus hard yolks in scambled eggs. The preference seems to develop over a long time, most likely from when we are very young. As scrambled eggs is possibly a special family meal, it is potentially one that brings a lot of home and hearth - type pleasant memories with it.

As a comparison with some of the other pictures posted above, this is a picture of relatively small grain, creamy, scrambled eggs with creme fraiche added at the end of cooking with truffle. I often don't do them over a double boiler these days but instead take them on and off the heat to stop them from overcooking. One other trick is to use a very small whisk to get well into the inside edges of the saucepan.

Edited August 5, 2012 by nickrey (log)

[antdad]

Chefcrash's look perfect to me. No additions required except a little butter, s&p and low heat, almost same gentle technique as when forming a traditional omlette by allowing to slightly set and then folding largish irregular curds. So more folded than scambled, take off the heat when there is still some liquid egg in the pan.

[ChrisZ]

I haven't noticed this thread before so it was interesting to read through 18 months of scrambled eggs.

I never thought much about scrambled eggs until I bought a box set of Ian Fleming's James Bond novels, and noticed that in 2 separate James Bond stories Fleming detailed the recipe for James Bond's scrambled eggs. I did some quick maths and figured that Bond (Fleming) used 15g of butter for every egg, which seemed like a lot. It certainly looks like a lot if you go to the trouble of accurately measuring it.

I was curious enough to try the recipe and found it absolutely delicious - soft and incredibly buttery - the flavour is as much butter as it is eggs.

It's now my go-to recipe for scrambled eggs, and telling someone you're making them "James Bond's recipe" gets a better reaction than telling them it's a Jamie Oliver / Nigella / Gordon Ramsay / Heston Blumenthal recipe :-)

[andiesenji]

I am preparing "my" scrambled eggs this morning. I have tried numerous other methods and keep returning to the one I know is (to my taste) perfect in flavor and texture.

I noticed there was a question about "adding the cream at the end to stop the eggs cooking" but I think my photos are self-explanatory - the eggs are added to the boiling cream.

Perhaps this is one of those dishes that each person needs to prepare exactly as they like it. There are some foods that have an intensely personal feel - toast, for instance - and what works for me won't work for others. One of my friends likes eggs fried hard both sides and to me they are rubbery and unappetizing but she can't stand an egg if there is even a hint of softness. (She also doesn't care for my scrambled eggs, or any scrambled eggs for that matter). She also won't eat bacon unless it is burnt to a crisp and hamburgers have to be so well done they could be used as hockey pucks. But that's okay, people should eat what they like How they like.

[Kouign Aman]

The current house favorite is scrambled softly with scads of grated extra-sharp cheddar thrown in at the end. Its also an excellent 'learning to cook' meal for a child.

[TheCulinaryLibrary]

I'm not a fan of the over-stirred-small-curd scramble that oozes whey because its been cooked too hot and curdled.

If you're like me and prefer the large and luscious soft scramble variety it's pretty easy to achieve.

Just lightly beat up some eggs, add a splash of cream and black pepper and into a medium heat non-stick pan or saucepan.....no salt at this stage as it will toughern the protein and make the eggs go rubbery. Once the egg begins to set , a quick stir and cover with a lid (preferably glass so you can see what's happening). Cook slowly letting the steam cook the eggs until it aerates them and literally puffs them up. A final quick stir as soon as they rise, folding in some butter and herbs and then add your favourite flaked salt.

[Brown Hornet]

As others have noted, I think scrambled eggs preferences are some of the most subjective in cooking.

For whatever reason I just don't care for the French style -- although I do like runny yolks. I like to whisk the eggs vigorously, use water and salt. I do not like to use cream or milk as it mutes the egg flavor. Instead, I melt a lot of butter in a pan at medium-low heat which, in my opinion, adds the same benefits of cream but with a far superior flavor. I like larger fluffier curds so I do not over stir the eggs in the pan. I take them off the heat before they are completely set and let the eggs finish cooking off heat. I use a very high butter to egg ratio, so in some ways my eggs come out somewhat similar to Andie's albeit a bit firmer but still moist and fluffy at the end.

My all-time favorite scrambled egg dish is one that used to be served at a now-closed restaurant here in Atlanta called Agnes & Muriel's called the Catskill Scramble. Closer to a comfort food/guilty pleasure than anything but for those interested:

Carmelize one diced onion in butter on medium-low heat,

Add about 6 whisked/stirred eggs to carmelized onions adding more butter if needed,

while eggs are still cooking add smoked salmon pieces to taste (I like a lot),

when eggs are cooked (to your preference of doneness) remove from heat and add some knobs of cream cheese -- again to taste.

Serve on toasted bagel slices and season to taste.

It's not pretty, but it's all the way yummy.

[Martin Fisher]

Here's my scrambled eggs.

Beaten only with a fork to this point.

HPIM4075.JPG

Skillet should be over medium - high heat.

Heavy cream in skillet to cover the bottom. (three eggs, med-lg)

allow it to bubble or foam up

HPIM4076.JPG

Add the eggs, count 10 and begin stirring and folding.

When they look like this, remove from heat.

HPIM4077.JPG

Finish with residual heat in skillet, cutting and turning to avoid breaking "curds" down too much.

HPIM4078.JPG

These scrambled eggs are very tender and can be held in a chafer/buffet server for a prolonged period without becoming tough or rubbery.

(When I was a child, this was the way the eggs were served.)

 

I tried this method about 10 minutes ago and I'm amazed at the result! Very tender scrambled eggs.

I thought I'd tried every possible way of making scrambled eggs but this is definitely unique, IMHO.

[JoNorvelleWalker]

I am ashamed that for most of my life I was unable to cook scrambled eggs.  Mine were dry and unpleasant.  Omelets and soufflés were no problem.  What's worse, my child could make scrambled eggs for me.

 

It was from Cook's Illustrated I got the idea to incorporate lots of cold butter.  Not every idea that Cook's Illustrated comes up with is wrong.

 

Here, then, is my method:  beat eggs and salt with fork or flat whisk until yolks and whites are partially combined but still distinct.  (Through experimentation I don't believe the old wives' tale that salt toughens scrambled eggs.)  Incorporate about one tablespoon cut up cold butter per egg.  Add mixture to hot pan with a small amount of sputtering butter.  Let briefly set. Then stir lightly.  Turn out on warm plate while still moist and under done.

 

Yum.

 

No water, no milk, no cream..

[andiesenji]

I tried this method about 10 minutes ago and I'm amazed at the result! Very tender scrambled eggs.

I thought I'd tried every possible way of making scrambled eggs but this is definitely unique, IMHO.

Most people are surprised at the results when they try this method.  Years ago, when I was catering, I used to make these for brunch service, doing a dozen eggs in a batch, and holding in chafing dishes.

I can't tell you how many times guests would come up and ask for the "secret" of how the scrambled eggs were done. 

A few times, we did "live" cooking and I would perform the "magic" in front of an audience and once or twice there were food "professionals" who told me they had no idea that this method existed and were truly astonished at the way the eggs turned out.

 

I have had "regular" scrambled eggs at hundreds of buffet services and to me they are always barely edible - tough, stringy, dry and virtually tasteless.  To me, it is simply wasting good eggs. 

On one occasion I did a demo with the commercial "whole eggs" in a carton and even those were better than fair cooked with this method. 

[SobaAddict70]

for me, scrambled eggs are:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter in a hot pan, melted until it foams

add beaten egg, with a touch of salt and pepper; occasionally I don't know how much cream or ricotta cheese or fromage blanc stirred into the eggs

cook until curds begin to form

remove from heat and serve immediately

I like large, creamy curds in my eggs

like so: