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The Michelin Red Guide 2009


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22 minutes now...

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Finally, a release:

Michelin Press Release & Results

From a cursory look, in line with what was already mentioned in the leaks.

New 3*

Le Bristol

New 2*

Arles - L 'Atelier de Jean Luc Rabanel

Bordeaux / Bouliac - Le St-James

Chasselay - Guy Lassausaie

Lyon - Mère Brazier

Paris - L'Espadon

Pont-du-Gard / Collias - Hostellerie Le Castellas

Porto-Vecchio - Casadelmar

Tourrettes - Faventia

Versailles - Gordon Ramsay au Trianon

New 1*

Ambierle - Le Prieuré

Arles - La Chassagnette

Avignon - Le Saule Pleureur

Barbizon - Les Pléiades

Biarritz - Les Rosiers

Bitche - Le Strasbourg

Blainville-sur-Mer - Le Mascaret

Boulogne-Billancourt - Ducoté Cuisine

Bourges - Le d'Antan Sancerrois

Bourges - Le Piet à Terre

Le-Bourget-du-Lac / Les Catons - Atmosphères

Caen - Incognito

Cahuzac-sur-Vère - La Falaise

Calvi - Emile's

Carcassonne / Aragon - La Bergerie

La Chapelle-de-Guinchay - La Poularde

Chartres - Le Grand Monarque

Chassagne-Montrachet - Le Chassagne

Cholet - Au Passé Simple

Collioure - Le Relais des Trois Mas

Conteville - Auberge du Vieux Logis

Courchevel / Courchevel 1850 - Le Kilimandjaro

Cucuron - La Petite Maison

Les Deux-Alpes - Chalet Mounier

Dijon / Prenois - Auberge de la Charme

Dourgne - Les Saveurs de St-Avit

Gignac - de Lauzun

Hagondange - Quai des Saveurs

Le Havre - Jean-Luc Tartarin

L'Île-Rousse - Pasquale Paoli

Languimberg - Chez Michèle

Lannilis - Auberge des Abers

Lembach - Auberge du Cheval Blanc

Mont-de-Marsan - Les Clefs d'Argent

Monte-Carlo - Mandarine

Montlivault - La Maison d'à Côté

Munster / Wihr-au-Val - Nouvelle Auberge

Mûr-de-Bretagne - Auberge Grand'Maison

Paris - Fogón

Paris - Le Jules Verne

Paris - 35 ° Ouest

Paris - L'Arôme

Paris - etc...

Paris - Agapé

Paris - Bigarrade

Perpignan - Park Hôtel

Pujaut - Entre Vigne et Garrigue

Saint-Florent - La Roya

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat - La Table du Cap

Saint-Joachim - La Mare aux Oiseaux

Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle - L' Auberge Basque

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence - Marc de Passorio

Sainte-Sabine - Étincelles-La Gentilhommière

Strasbourg - Umami

Tournus - Rest. Greuze

Tours - Rive Gauche

Valence - La Cachette

Valence - Flaveurs

Vence - Les Bacchanales

Vence - Château St-Martin & Spa

Ventabren - La Table de Ventabren

Versailles - L'Angélique

Viré - Relais de Montmartre

Deletions 3*:

Cancale - Maisons de Bricourt

Deletions 2*:

Mougins - Alain Llorca - Le Moulin de Mougins

Paris - Les Élysées

Deletions 1*:

Pau / Jurançon - Chez Ruffet

Amboise - Château de Pray

Amboise - Le Choiseul

Ampus - La Fontaine d'Ampus

Avignon - D'Europe

Avignon / Le Pontet - Auberge de Cassagne

Béhuard - Les Tonnelles

Biot - Le Jarrier

Bouilland - Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin

Le-Bourget-du-Lac - La Grange à Sel

Caen - Le Pressoir

Cagnes-sur-Mer - Le Cagnard

Cergy-Pontoise / Cormeilles-en-Vexin - Maison Cagna

Châlons-en-Champagne / L'Épine - Aux Armes de Champagne

Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne/L'Abergement-Clémenciat - St-Lazare

Chinon - Au Plaisir Gourmand

Collioure - Le Neptune

Condrieu - Hôtellerie Beau Rivage

Grimaud - Les Santons

Honfleur - La Ferme St-Siméon

Le Lavandou / Aiguebelle - Le Sud

Lyon - Mathieu Viannay

Mercurey - Hôtellerie du Val d'Or

Metz - Au Pampre d'Or

Monte-Carlo - Vistamar

Mulhouse / Rixheim - Le Manoir

Paris - Goumard

Paris - Copenhague

Paris - Maison Courtine

Pernes-les-Fontaines - Au Fil du Temps

Rouen - L'Écaille

St-Lyphard - Auberge de Kerbourg

St-Priest-Bramefant - Château de Maulmont

Sarreguemines - Thierry Breininger - Le Vieux Moulin

Sélestat - Hostellerie de l'Abbaye la Pommeraie

La Souterraine - Château de la Cazine

Strasbourg - Serge and Co

Strasbourg / La Wantzenau - Relais de la Poste

Tourrettes-sur-Loup - Les Bacchanales

Urt - Auberge de la Galupe

Edited by Food Snob (log)

Food Snob

foodsnob@hotmail.co.uk

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Finally, a release:

Michelin Press Release & Results

Deletions 1*:

Pau / Jurançon - Chez Ruffet

I was surprised to see Chez Ruffet on the list for deleted 1 stars, as I had a fantastic meal there in Summer 2007 when it was a 2 star. However, checking the link it is the one restaurant to fall from 2 star to 1.

Anyone know if the deletion reflects a real fall in quality?

PS

Edinburgh

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Deletions 3*:

Cancale - Maisons de Bricourt

Deletions 2*:

Mougins - Alain Llorca - Le Moulin de Mougins

Paris - Les Élysées

What are the reasons for these deletions ? Closures ?

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Finally, a release:

Michelin Press Release & Results

Deletions 1*:

Pau / Jurançon - Chez Ruffet

I was surprised to see Chez Ruffet on the list for deleted 1 stars, as I had a fantastic meal there in Summer 2007 when it was a 2 star. However, checking the link it is the one restaurant to fall from 2 star to 1.

Anyone know if the deletion reflects a real fall in quality?

I do not understand the demotion. Had an excellent all-asparagus menu there in May 08, fully worth two stars in my opinion.

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I find it strange that Marc Veyrat is still listed as *** although an article that I read about the closure of his restaurant had mentioned that the decision had been made in time not to appear in the guide.

Now Michelin for an entire year will list a *** restaurant that no longer exists, very unfortunate in my view.

Edited by ameiden (log)
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22 minutes now...

Well, I gave them 24 hours and then pounced; but neither FNAC St Lazare nor Galeries Lafayette had the 2009; lots of 2008's still there though (the lady at FNAC said "the press disseminated misinformation.") Hummm. And, after all that build up.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I find it strange that Marc Veyrat is still listed as *** although an article that I read about the closure of his restaurant had mentioned that the decision had been made in time not to appear in the guide.

Now Michelin for an entire year will list a *** restaurant that no longer exists, very unfortunate in my view.

Maybe it was too embarassing for them to have 2 chef's (Roellinger & Veyrat) to hand back their stars in one year... Bad publicity. I don't think 2 in one year has happened before.

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I find it strange that Marc Veyrat is still listed as *** although an article that I read about the closure of his restaurant had mentioned that the decision had been made in time not to appear in the guide.

Now Michelin for an entire year will list a *** restaurant that no longer exists, very unfortunate in my view.

Maybe it was too embarassing for them to have 2 chef's (Roellinger & Veyrat) to hand back their stars in one year... Bad publicity. I don't think 2 in one year has happened before.

I may be wrong, but as far as I was aware neither were 'handing back' their stars, but simply closing their respective restaurants for other reasons (Veyrat cited physical difficulties after a ski accident a few years ago) rather than as a protest against Michelin.

For that reason, I would not really think it bad publicity.

Food Snob

foodsnob@hotmail.co.uk

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Hello all

I had a fine lunch at Le Moulin de Mougins in June 08. All aspects of the meal were very good and I would say, based on my one visit, a comfortable two star experience . Does anyone know the reason for the deletion.

Martin

Martin

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Deletions 3*:

Cancale - Maisons de Bricourt

Deletions 2*:

Mougins - Alain Llorca - Le Moulin de Mougins

Paris - Les Élysées

What are the reasons for these deletions ?  Closures ?

To clarify, are these deletions or demotions? The difference that I'm drawing focuses primarily on the total absence of stars and the loss of one or two. Am I to understand that the former 2-starred restaurants listed above (I know the fate of the two 3-stars listed) now have no stars?

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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I find it strange that Marc Veyrat is still listed as *** although an article that I read about the closure of his restaurant had mentioned that the decision had been made in time not to appear in the guide.

Now Michelin for an entire year will list a *** restaurant that no longer exists, very unfortunate in my view.

Maybe it was too embarassing for them to have 2 chef's (Roellinger & Veyrat) to hand back their stars in one year... Bad publicity. I don't think 2 in one year has happened before.

I may be wrong, but as far as I was aware neither were 'handing back' their stars, but simply closing their respective restaurants for other reasons (Veyrat cited physical difficulties after a ski accident a few years ago) rather than as a protest against Michelin.

For that reason, I would not really think it bad publicity.

Quite right. But however the announcements of these closures were couched, the question hanging in the air is to what extent Michelin pressures tipped the balance in deciding whether to continue or close. Given the economic climate that began last year, what kinds of cost or menu alterations could be made while continuing to meet Michelin expectations? Leaving at the top of one's game may not be a protest, but it may well be a bellwether for the thinning ranks of expensive restaurants. Edited by Margaret Pilgrim (log)

eGullet member #80.

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Deletions 3*:

Cancale - Maisons de Bricourt

Deletions 2*:

Mougins - Alain Llorca - Le Moulin de Mougins

Paris - Les Élysées

What are the reasons for these deletions ?  Closures ?

To clarify, are these deletions or demotions? The difference that I'm drawing focuses primarily on the total absence of stars and the loss of one or two. Am I to understand that the former 2-starred restaurants listed above (I know the fate of the two 3-stars listed) now have no stars?

All these restaurants closed.

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Les Elysées is a restaurant that has nothing to do with what it used to be -- just because it's the same name doesn't mean it's the same restaurant. See pics of the new restaurant there: http://picasaweb.google.fr/ZeJulot/LesElysEsPostBriffard02#,

Robert, can't remember where I read it, and maybe I'm wrong, but I think le Moulin closed this year.

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Julien, I came across a story that Llorca walked out on his shareholders, but nothing abour a replacement or closing.

I'm sceptical about the reasons these chefs give for closing or shrinking. Veyrat had one prior flirtation with bankruptcy, and given the Swiss economy, along with all the others, he must have had some rough sledding. Roellinger, I suspect, overexpanded. The supply of people's available cash isn't able to support the expensive foundations of these ambitious places. Say goodbye to full-throttled dining, same as civilization has to the great luxury liners.

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I am not skeptical about the reason they give. The physical demand of the chef's job are unreasonable by today's standard. It does not matter how passionate, talented and robust you are, at some point there is no good reason to put up with that kind of life. Roellinger was never a very strong person to start with. Veyrat was never reasonable at all, sleeping four hours a night. And the ski accident was very real, as was his inability to walk and his need to go to bed at midnight for the first time in his life. Now both those guys have opportunities to walk out of the job, and still make a good living thanks to book and industry deals. Why wouldn't they?

And not only are physical demands extreme -- so are economical ones. If you try cooking a three star meals at home, forget about the skills, it will still cost you as much as getting that meal in a restaurant.

For these reasons, traditional fine dining is finding shelter where it is subsidized, meaning mainly in palaces. And independent restaurants either close like Roellinger or get mediocre like l'Ambroisie or l'Arpège.

At the same time, young cooks are more drawed to cooking seen as more "modern", which definitely do not have the same demand as traditional gastronomy.

As for the Moulin, it's like with les Elysées: maybe there still is a restaurant running by that name at the same location. But the restaurant that had two stars just does not exist anymore. This cannot be seen as a demotion.

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I am not skeptical about the reason they give.

I was once again perhaps unclear.

I did not question the toll on chefs of their life. (I had a direct familial experience with it)

I was saying that when he first declared that he was going to shut down, the reasons seemed more economic, banks, etc, than now, and that was was long before the ski accident.

The guy's a great guy, bless him, he can retire anytime he wants; it's a very tough business, thanks to whoever, that some people want to do it.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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Yes Alain Llorca has moved to Juan-les-pin Hotel Belle Rives - nice spot -- should be a nice addition to the coastal restaurant scene.

Le Table du Cap is a sad story - great spot in Cap Ferrat with veryy inventive cuisine - Laurent Poulet is a nice guy - just couldn't make it long enough.

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As for the Moulin, it's like with les Elysées: maybe there  still is a restaurant running by that name at the same location. But the restaurant that had two stars just does not exist anymore. This cannot be seen as a demotion.

But to say that they have closed, without more, is misleading.

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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