Robuchon Method for Fries

[gfweb]

In another thread it was suggested that someone start a new topic re the seductively easy method reported by Jeffery Steingarten as being the cook-at-home technique used by Joel Robuchon. It's simple...cut the fries...put in enough room temp oil to cover them...heat till browned ~365ish. Takes about 5-7 min depending on pan size and uses very little oil.

I've fooled with it and it works well with fries that are less than steak fries in thickness. Russett potatoes worked better than yukon gold (which I wouldn't use for fries anyway). They weren't greasy and were crisp outside and just right inside.

Anybody have thoughts about this?

[Magictofu]

I've never heard of this method and if you didn't say that the fries were not greasy I would not even have considered this recipe... now I am tempted.

[Dianne]

I have used this method with success. I seem to remember that the size of the potato sticks matters.

[pennylane]

Okay, I must try this. Am I right in assuming that you can only have one layer of fries in the pan and that the pan must be uncovered?

(Sorry if that's a stupid question.)

[gfweb]

I have only used one layer of fries with the pan uncovered.

I suppose you could use more layers and more oil so long as it doesn't bubble over (which BTW happens less with this method than the standard one).

I've only done tests in smaller pans...with so little oil it heats pretty quickly. I'd be afraid to keep it covered.

[pennylane]

Okay, thanks! I will try this in a small pan too, with one layer of fries.

[adegiulio]

I would definately keep it uncovered. Once they start frying and giving off steam, a cover will give the steam a place to collect and then drip back into the oil, with annoying results..

[Magictofu]

I have used this method with success. I seem to remember that the size of the potato sticks matters.

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How big/small do they have to be?

[jsmeeker]

I'll have to try this out, too.. I have a three quart, straight sided stainless saute pan. I could also use my 12" Lodge cast iron skillet.

[gfweb]

I have used this method with success. I seem to remember that the size of the potato sticks matters.

←

How big/small do they have to be?

←

I have tried it with a range of sizes from big slabs to McDonald's sized cuts. The smaller fries worked best...sized up to 3/8". Bigger fires weren't as nice inside, but that could be due to my taking the fries out at 360 deg as specified by Steingarten's article. Another 10 or 15 deg might do the trick.

I also haven't tried sweet potatoes (yet).

[Dianne]

How big/small do they have to be?

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Stiengarten specifies 3/8" on a side. I certainly did not get out a ruler, but I think something approximating this size works best.

[TheSwede]

I've done it with more than one layer of fries, but as noted above it isn't as optimal on the oil use. Otherwise it worked fine.

[gfweb]

Two experiments today.

Russet thickness >3/8 " doesnt taste as good even if left in to 375deg. I have not tried slow heating of the oil though. My method for all of the "studies" has been to use a 8" pan and a hot burner. Fries cook in <5 minutes. Pretty darn instant gratification.

Sweet potatoes (the orange kind) cook even quicker. Thicker than 3/8" sweet potatoes still cook well, though the best ones are 1/4".

[tim]

Hi,

One potato, 3/8" cut, two layers, 8" diameter 4 qt sauce pan, medium high heat. I took 21 minutes to reach temp and to brown the potatoes.

They were delicious. They did absorb some oil, but my they were wonderful.

Does one layer at high heat really finish in 8 minutes???

Tim

[Holly Moore]

Doesn't anyone have a camera?

[gfweb]

Hi,

One potato, 3/8" cut, two layers, 8" diameter 4 qt sauce pan, medium high heat.  I took 21 minutes to reach temp and to brown the potatoes. 

They were delicious.  They did absorb some oil, but my they were wonderful.

Does one layer at high heat really finish in 8 minutes???

Tim

←

I've finished in 5 minutes with a small pan and a big flame.

[gfweb]

How's this?

Thanks everyone.

Edited December 31, 2007 by gfweb (log)

[TheSwede]

From what I remember my fries have taken significantly longer than 7-8 minutes too. Maybe 15-20.

[K8memphis]

Just purely by the photo some of them seem sogged out a bit too much, the two on the right especially and the top of the one in the middle. Could just be the light reflecting on the oil. They don't look dry enough look a bit sogged out in oil to me.

Let me hasten to say thank you so much for going through the technical jig saw puzzle to get the photos to everyone.

Were they saturated at all in oil when you ate them?

So I re-read everything and yes you confirm that they had absorbed oil.

Did you rinse them off in water and dry them before frying? Just curious.

[adegiulio]

I gave this method a whirl yesterday. I used fries cut from russets, one batch was 5mm, the other 10mm. It took both about 6-8 minutes to cook to a deep golden brown. After draining and salting, we tried them...The verdict?

Not so good. While they were both well cooked, they were quite greasy. Very little crispness. I prefer the two step method, or the easier method, McDonalds...

[gfweb]

I'm doing it in a really small pan with a small volume of oil; which probably accounts for the speed. I timed the fries in the above photos...4min 50 sec.

Re greasiness. They are no more greasy than McDs. To me every fry is a bit greasy.

Edited December 31, 2007 by gfweb (log)

[K8memphis]

Few treats are as easily accessible to each of us and are as wonderfully rewarding to make and eat and share as fries. Thank you exponentially so for all the work.

My favorites are the teeny eeny weeny skinny ones nice & crunchy.

[tim]

HI,

Wikipedia says, "A third method, invented by the celebrated French chef Joël Robuchon for the home cook, is to put the sliced potatoes into a saucepan with just enough cold oil in it to cover the potatoes, then to cook them over high heat until golden, stirring occasionally."

This does not mention rinsing or drying. I will try both methods.

Tim

[Anna N]

Recently I snagged a copy of the CIA Cooking at Home (2003) book for $2.77 and here (paraphrased) is the method suggested in the book:

Russets, (1 1/2 pounds) peeled, rinsed, drained and cut into 3/8" sticks then thoroughly dried. Use large cast iron skillet or wok. Put in the potatoes and oil (2 1/2 cups veg oil) and adjust heat to medium. Cook for 25 mins - don't stir or disturb the spuds except by slight jiggles of the pan on occasion. Adjust to high heat and cook for a further 10-15 minutes (until golden brown) and this time you can stir them a bit.

A side bar suggests that the potatoes cook as the oil heats and that the ultimate temp reached is 350F but notes that this method does not require a thermometer to be fool-proof.

I dunno - what's "medium heat"? I know it's different for each of us depending on our pans, stoves, and subjective judgement! It's also an awfully long time to be heating oil with all the attendant dangers esp. for those of us who have senior moments!

No mention of Joel Robuchon!

[TheSwede]

...

No mention of Joel Robuchon!

The attribution is anecdotal in Steingarten's book, something along the lines of: "...said to be Joel Robuchons method to make fries at home."

Does anyone have other sources?