Rome Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations

[albiston]

shadow,

a good source is the online version of Slow Food's "Osterie d'Italia" guide, dedicated to places where the average meal costs 35€ or less. You will need to register on the Slow Food site, but it is absolutely worth it. Their tips have seldom let me down.

The only let down is that you only get to read the description of the trattorie if you view the page in Italian, otherwise it's only a list of addresses and phone numbers. Even so you'll end up with an up to date list of convenient eateries in Rome.

[vmilor]

For pizza I actually liked Gatto Mangiano. Thanks to Francesco who had second hand but reliable info. we had very good dough which was like a successful snyntesis of roman white dough and napolitaine style pizza. They also have very good Piemontese trappist beer.

I am not sure about the spelling and may be confusing o and a. But it must relate to a cat as the proprieterss seems to be obssessed with cats. This is the only negative in an otherwise friendly, cozy, neighbourhood place with top pizza.

Oh. Matricianella is a very good trattoria and you don't leave a fortune. I esp. recommend fried brain and sweetbread and trippa a la romana.

[calimero]

For pizza I actually liked Gatto Mangiano. Thanks to Francesco who had second hand but reliable info. we had very good dough which was like a successful snyntesis of roman white dough and napolitaine style pizza.  They also have very good Piemontese trappist beer.

I am not sure about the spelling and may be confusing o and a. But it must relate to a cat as the proprieterss seems to be obssessed with cats.  This is the only negative in an otherwise friendly, cozy, neighbourhood place with top pizza.

It's "Gatta Mangiona" (glutton cat), in via ozanam in monteverde neighborood: actually i think is one of the best pizzerie in Rome, but a little bit expensive. Instead, try "il Moschin", "Pout pourri", "Osteria del traslocatore" in Garbatella neighborod, very cheap and only for locals.

[shadow]

Thanks for the tips! I think our philosophy will be --yes, pizza--but more enotcas and bar food for most meals ( not Agate this year for us ). We really prefer to have the fresh and simple for most meals anyway. last time we were in Italy, we sort of "restauranted ourselves out" eating at every really good place that was reccomended. This may actually be better for us--no Rosetta, but we could come across some family owned places that are good and have good things . Trastevere? Haven't eaten there and folks keep saying there are lots of good places.

I remember the first time we were in Rome, we were at a place called L'Angloetto on the first night and people were being served large plates of one green vegetable --just that. So we ordered the same thing. Fresh, lovely. The first of the season.

[emsny]

We ate at a fish restaurant called Piccolo Molise, maybe five or six years ago. Inexpensive and good. You'll have to look it up for yourselves; I don't have any notes. The procedure there is that you let them serve you the evening's dinner - quite a few courses - and the house white.

[redwinegulper]

I think the best food in Roma are the simple dishes like Cacio e Pepe or Penne all' Arrabbiatta. Look for the restaurants that have a "Cucina tipica" sign, and you will find simple trattorias where a pasta can cost 6 Euro.

Two I would strongly recommend are Osteria da Olindo in Trastevere and Sora Margherita (only for lunch) in the Jewish Ghetto.

[cmben]

I have eaten well in Rome for over 20 years starting when I was on a very tight budget and now when I can easily afford La Rosetta and the like. Truthfully, I have found that the most memorable meals have often been at the least expensive and least pretentious ristoratnte, osteria, trattoria or enoteca. Here are a few of my favorites.

Ristorante Alla Rampa, Piazza Mignanelli, 18. My old favorite that I first went to in 1985, behind American Express off of the Spanish Steps. They have the most incrediable Antipasta bar in Rome. Last year it was 10 Euro's. Meat, fresh fish, vegetables,cheese, you name it they have it. A great way to sample a lot of Rome's bounty.

On a side street, an alley, by the Piazza Rotundra is Antonio al Pantheon Via Dei Pastini, 12. This is a family place, almost communal tables, they tend to move tables around to accomadate the diners, where locals come for dinner, read papers and now aday work on laptops. Wonderful fresh pasta {classic Caico de Pepe & Carbonara} and seasonal vegetables done perfectly. Good, inexpensive house wine. I took seven people {including three teenagers} and had a a bill of around 140 Euros.

My Enoteca pick has to be hands down Cul De Sac Piazza Pasquino, 78 just off of the Piazza Narvona. Crowded, fun, benches at wooden tables with wine suspended over your head. Pate, terrines, cheeses and great bread with a glass of wine, makes for a truly "Roman" adventure.

Finally the new kid on the block. A five minute walk from the Spanish Steps, past stores with clothing and leather goods that I can't afford let alone wear, brings you to a complex of gastromonic and wine stores under one rood. Gusto is at Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 & Via della Frezza, 23. Here is a wine store, a cooking equipment store, a pizzeria, a Ristorante, a enoteca, a cheese bar, a cigar bar etc. all very, very hip, modern. You can spend a lot or very little depending where you chose to land. The trick is to go around to the Via della Frezza, basically the back of the building, where you'll find the entrances to the various cheese, antipasta and panini bars. The pizzeria and the Ristoranta face the Piazza.

For an introduction to Itlaian wine, try to take an early evening tasting at the International Wine Academy {Setup by Steven Spurrier, everybody speaks English} By the Spanish steps, in the the Vicolo del Bottino, this is the alley that leads to the Metro stop. check out thier schedule at www.wineacademyroma.com. The tastings are guided and are reasonablly priced.

[menton1]

My Enoteca pick has to be hands down Cul De Sac Piazza Pasquino, 78 just off of the Piazza Narvona. Crowded, fun, benches at wooden tables with wine suspended over your head. Pate, terrines, cheeses and great bread with a glass of wine, makes for a truly "Roman" adventure.

This is the place I thought of when I saw this topic-- hands down one of our favorite places in Rome!! You make a meal of appetizers, which are awesome. Not to mention the ambience, where there are about 20,000 bottles of wine lining the walls, a wine list that weighs 10 pounds, and bench-style seats. Don't miss Cul-de-Sac!!

[Carlsbad]

cmben, your recommendations sound terrific. Thanks.

[shacke]

For all those interest, I would suggest you give a look at Seth's comments to his Roman experience, which have been moved here.

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Thanks to Seth for those comments. I am headed to Rome and Naples in September and while we will be with native friends in Naples, we are on our own in Rome for 4 days. Any specific non touristy restaurant recommendations are welcome! We both speak italian (or should I say my wife does and I can get by with mine although I am frantically studying more food vocabulary over the summer). We would love gems away from the throngs of visitors!

We will be at the sofitel BTW but plan to cover the city as much as possible.

Evan

Edited July 10, 2005 by shacke (log)

[isabellerossetti]

We're going to spend the first week of August in Rome. Our friends insist on dining at Agata e Romeo but I ve seen quite a lot of sad reviews on them. Any comments/recommendantions please ?

[vinobiondo]

We're going to spend the first week of August in Rome. Our friends insist on dining at Agata e Romeo but I ve seen quite a lot of sad reviews on them. Any comments/recommendantions please ?

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I was in Rome last August and just about everything was closed for vacation. Two places that were open and delicious were perennial eGullet favorite 'Gusto and Michelin 1-star Il Convivio. Both were very good. However, neither is particularly "Italian" and Convivio is quite expensive, but is quite a professional, "destination dining"-type restaurant. 'Gusto has a nice, modern vibe to it, with an attached wine bar and a very reasonably priced wine list. I tried to get in darn near everywhere with a decent rating in either Gambero Rosso or Michelin, and it seemed like the whole rest of the city was closed, so good luck!

[Ciao Roma]

Greetings E-Gullet Folk!

I have read your forums for a few years as I always thought it was a good tool to see what was going on in the industry from various prospectives. I am currently half way through a one year contract as Executive Chef at the Canadian Embassy in Rome. I am calling it a working sabatical. I was the former chef at Blue Water Cafe and Araxi's in Whistler, which is where I plan to return in February. My wife, son and I have been immersed in the Italian culture and are finding it most interesting. The approach to cuisine is strictly ingredient driven and although foods are generally quite simple, the thought and care to certain dishes is quite exceptional. In my job I shop most every day at a variety of markets throughout Rome. The markets are huge and plentiful and generally always crowded. Shopping can be a joy or a total nightmare (language, pushy people and short tempered vendors). Products with exception to the fish (I have been spoiled on the West Coast) can be top notch and quite cheap. The markets are totally seasonal, things that aren't growing here you won't find in the markets. Not like Granville Island, per say, when you can find produce that isn't in season in Canada locally. I don't always cook Italian food. The guests that we entertain generally are looking for something different, hence a Canadian chef. We travel quite a bit in Italy, whether it is a holiday or I have done a few competitions as well so we try and earmark certain dishes and foods that we want to try from each region. If anyone has any questions or queries about Italy, please let me know. I hope all is well in lotus land and I miss all the good regional and ethnic restaurants. I haven't had good sushi once here. Ciao.

[Keith Talent]

If I hadn't had an idiot for a guidance couselor in high school, this could have been me writing, with the exception that I don't want to work as hard as a cook, and I like earning money. What a cool adventure however. Very interesting read, feel free to continue posting more observations.

Cheers

[sanrensho]

Very interesting. Looking forward to more.

[nwyles]

James,

Are you returning to Blue Water or Araxi ?

Are you not interested in getting another year contract ? or was this a just a short term job.

I am curious as to what type of functions they hold at the Consulate and what are your responsibilites. Are you preparing three square a day for the staff or is it mainly for visitors and Consular functions.

[BCinBC]

Interesting, I was at a function at the Canadian embassy in Beijing and as far as I know there was no resident chef. Our function was catered (Thai of all things! And it was pretty good). Anyway, the idea of doing a year "sabatical" in a foreign country sounds pretty cool. How does one go about finding a position like that, let alone applying? Because it's gov't, do they have to go through the open-to-public advertising and interviewing process, or can they just "appoint"? I am not a chef, I'm just curious.

Also I for one would love to see some photos from the markets, if at all possible.

[Foodie in Vancouver]

Please share more as your schedule allows. Surely you can see how we are enjoying the vicarious pleasure of hearing of your amazing Italian adventure. Any details would be interesting but definitely would love to hear more about your routine, who you cook for, how you choose the menus, how you select the wines etc.

[Ciao Roma]

Are you returning to Blue Water or Araxi ?

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Neil, nice to hear from you. Hamilton Street Grill if I am not correct. We used to be neighbors. I will definitely be going back to Araxi as my home is in Whistler. I signed a year contract but it is possible to stay longer. My wife and I felt a year was long enough especially with a year old son. Generally I cook for the Ambassador and his wife but they often have guests. We also do plenty of special functions for dignitaries, heads of state, etc. The Ambassador takes care of Italy, Malta, Albania, San Marino and is also the Prime Minister's personal emissary to Africa. I have cooked for 150 and I have cooked for 1 so it is kind of all over the place but I have plenty of warning to prep. I do most everything myself, ie breads, pastries, butchery and wash pots sometimes too. A party of 20 with canapes, 5 courses and petit fours is a lot of work when you are solo. I also have an Italian crew that I bring in when the functions get really large and also my wife, ex pastry at Sooke Harbour House helps when I need it. I even sang Happy Birthday to Kofi Annan and made him a cake. The work load is a lot less than a restaurant but it is busy in spurts. I do miss working with a team and all the fun that goes along with it. It does help my Italian working with the staff that lives at the Embassy. Ciao for now!

Edited August 16, 2005 by Ciao Roma (log)

[shelora]

I even sang Happy Birthday to Kofi Annan and made him a cake.

I love that!!

You said that you hadn't had any decent sushi while you were there, what, on the other hand, has been the food or ingredient highlight of your stay there?

What market do you shop in or do you just make a list and someone else does the shopping for you?

s

[Ciao Roma]

Please share more as your schedule allows. Surely you can see how we are enjoying the vicarious pleasure of hearing of your amazing Italian adventure. Any details would be interesting but definitely would love to hear more about your routine, who you cook for, how you choose the menus, how you select the wines etc.

←

I am a sucker for routine and always have been. I usually start the morning about 9:00 with a cappuccino and a cornetto and like the Italians, spend about an hour and a half doing this. Nobody rushes around here, if you try to rush someone they will take twice as long. Coffee as I am sure you know is outstanding and cheap as chips so you can you have 4 or 5 cappuccinos for what you pay for one of those Starbucks things, with 100% better quality. I haven't seen a Starbucks in Italy yet. It took a few months but I kind of know where to go for everything now. Sometimes I have to travel pretty far so on a Monday I might go to Piazza Vittorio, the most Asian of the markets and one of my favorites because the immigrants I find much friendlier than the Italian vendors. There is a Japanese store that I frequent quite often as the Ambassador enjoys Japanese food every Friday night. On Wednesdays I usually head to the Castroni, which is down by the Vatican. The Castroni is like an international food market, along with really fine Italian products. This is where I can buy things like ancho chillies, baking powder, corn syrup, vanilla beans; things you can't easily find. I will shop for fresh produce daily from various markets. I plan the menus according to what is seasonally available and the dietary needs of the guests. We have many Muslim guests from Africa so obviously I don't use pork or alcohol, some people are vegetarian or just don't like things. I am given a detailed list ahead of time so I plan based on that. We have a beautiful cellar fully stocked with Italian labels leaning towards the best of the Tuscan reds. The Ambassador is very big on Brunello and its little brother Rossa di Montalcino and a few super Tuscans scattered in. We generally start the meals with a Prosecco and always end with Canadian ice wine. I have always felt this was a nice touch and I much prefer it to a Vin Santo. I'll try to post more as things happen.

[Ciao Roma]

Interesting, I was at a function at the Canadian embassy in Beijing and as far as I know there was no resident chef. Our function was catered (Thai of all things! And it was pretty good). Anyway, the idea of doing a year "sabatical" in a foreign country sounds pretty cool. How does one go about finding a position like that, let alone applying? Because it's gov't, do they have to go through the open-to-public advertising and interviewing process, or can they just "appoint"? I am not a chef, I'm just curious.

Also I for one would love to see some photos from the markets, if at all possible.

←

This Ambassador I think is very forward thinking. This is the 3rd post he has had where he hired Canadian chefs. Generally, the chef position falls under the LES category (Locally Engaged Staff) and is not a CBS (Canadian Based Staff), ie. diplomats, so basically all the other embassies here have Italian chefs. Our embassy is quite popular with even the other ambassadors as they are eating something different and I use Canadian products as much as possible: maple syrup, wild rice, Canadian smoked salmon, ice wine, etc. Food represents who we are and what Canadians might want to eat. I usually get to meet the guests and they are quite surprised that the Ambassador has a Canadian chef and they usually ask me questions about food in Canada, what I like to eat, etc. I heard about the job through a friend of mine who was my sous chef at Blue Water. He had met the Ambassador at a restaurant in Ottawa and so they called and recruited him when the position was available, and I took over for him. I applied and was hired directly by the Ambassador and my family and I then applied for working visas with some assistance from the Embassy. I was fortunate that my wife and son have a Dutch passport so it enabled my wife to work and for us to get all of the benefits entitled to EU citizens. I will post some pictures of Rome markets when I have some time.

[Shira]

it's been a few years, but i though that the spaghetti cacio e pepe on the unnamed restaurant on via della croce (it's in time out) was fantastic. student-friendly prices too.

[mrbigjas]

i haven't been to rome for a couple of years either, but i second the cul de sac recommendation if you like wine, and especially if you like cured meats. it's the first place i ever had lardo and i remember it like it was yesterday.

in addition, there is a sandwich shop called bar rinelli on a smallish street leading up from piazza barberini called via san nicolo da tolentino. you can't miss this place if you're on the block; it's usually packed out the door with office worker types from the area, and with good reason--it has truly excellent sandwiches, that cost very very little. it's the only place we ate twice while we were in rome, because it was on the way from our hotel to where we were going, often, and it was so cheap and good.

[DaleJ]

I've eaten at 'Gusto several times. Besides its formaggio and salumi plates and wine bargains, its worth it just to be a part of the organized bedlam and for viewing Rome's glitterati.