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vmilor

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  1. I transferred my articles and I will publish my own and friends' only at www.gastromondiale.com There are 2 recent articles: David Katz on Hawai and David Kinch (Manresa) on 4 3 star Tokyo restaurants. I also reviewed Alinea. I will publish more articles on restaurant and wine reviews but recently I have been very busy. I am writing bi-weekly in Milliyet (Turkish daily) on food and wine and have been shooting restaurant visits ( a la Bourdain) for a major channel. I have also completed a book on Italian food (review of 157 restaurants) and wine. I appreciate the interest. It motivates me t
  2. I am delighted to publish David Kinch’s review of four outstanding restaurants in Tokyo. The Michelin guides awards more three stars to Tokyo than to any other city in the world, but for many of us, including myself, the very best of the Japanese cuisine remains a black box. Kinch, owner and chef of the Manresa restaurant in Los Gatos, where I had some of my best meals in the States, has visited Tokyo with a Japanese friend who helped him navigate some terrain unknown to Westerners. Personally I found his reviews to be very honest in the sense that he makes a very sincere effort to come to
  3. I have been in Alinea about a year ago and ordered the grand menu. My report has been overdue. Written but never posted. (because I started a new blog and it took time to transfer my posts from gastroville to gastromoniale) I thought some of you may be interested in this review. Alinea is a restaurant that I am looking forward to go back. Here is the review.
  4. ← Thanks Rogelio. First I saw the photos and was not aware of your comments and that you had posted it. I quipped to myself "this is more like Adria that I had admired in late 90s". It looks like he is maturing or maybe he is more relaxed.....
  5. Nice review ajgnet. It is interesting that you almost forgot eating the mache salade with truffle slices. I eat them simultaneoulsy with the tourte. The idea is to contrast what you aptly describes as truffles as texture versus truffles as scent. But there is no right or wrong way.... Pacaud is very picky on his lobster supply. I wonder whether it is the texture that is tough ( a good rock blue lobster from Brittany) or slightly overcooked? Personally I don't like "cottony" texture in lobster. Maine lobster has that texture and then when you cook it sous vide, a la FL the result....well
  6. Couldn't find anything about this on your blog...or did I miss something? Anyway, could you elaborate on that, please? (Via PM if you prefer) I have been to Il Duomo only once - and I think I might know what you mean... Best kai ← No. Mikael has never written. Basically he found the quality of products questionable and cooking very poor. He was frank when the chef asked him how he liked his meal. But the chef responded to criticisms quite aggressively. Personally I have been staying in Alba in the last few years and there are no shortage of honest restaurants. Da Renzo, Antine, All
  7. I have found that Joel Robuchon Las Vegas is quite good but it is by no means a dining destination for its own sake. If you happen to be in Las Vegas, it is worth having a meal which ranks on par with the best in France in terms of service and ambience but many dishes utilize average quality luxurious ingredients. When Michelin was Michelin this was perhaps a one star level--in France. For those of you interested in a fuller review here is the link: click here
  8. Well, at the top of my list is Erba Luna In all seriousness, go to Miramonte L'Alto in Concesio and then Vissani and tell me which has the better food, and which resturant you like best. My bet is that you'll like one and dislike the other. Go to Paolo e Barbara in San Remo and then to Madonnina in Senigallia and tell me which has the better food and which restaurant you like best. Tell me which chef, in those two restaurants, is the more skilled? Go to La Pinetta in Marina di Bibbona and then go a little way along the coast to Gambero Rosso. Tell us which restaurant you think serves the bett
  9. Well, at the top of my list is Erba Luna In all seriousness, go to Miramonte L'Alto in Concesio and then Vissani and tell me which has the better food, and which resturant you like best. My bet is that you'll like one and dislike the other. Go to Paolo e Barbara in San Remo and then to Madonnina in Senigallia and tell me which has the better food and which restaurant you like best. Tell me which chef, in those two restaurants, is the more skilled? Go to La Pinetta in Marina di Bibbona and then go a little way along the coast to Gambero Rosso. Tell us which restaurant you think serves the bett
  10. Nice reports ajgnet, please continue and enjoy Paris. My best guess is that the "elderly" lady you described at L'Ambroisie is the lady at the "vestiaire". It is hard not to use adjectives such as "elegant", "refined", "chic" describing Madame Pacaud. She is almost "ageless".... she is not aging. Unlike many other 3 stars in Paris the staff at L'Ambroisie, with the exception of Pascale Vettaux, do not speak English. This creates some misunderstanding at times.... Since I am neither French nor American, I can say that the 2 culture rest at polar opposites among Western-individualist cult
  11. The chef at L'Altro Mastai is a former Heinz Beck sous chef and protege!!! (good restaurant but not on par with La Pergola) Truly Roman and good: Osteria San Cesario...take a cab.
  12. This is an oft-repeated (not just by you) generalization which, when contrasted with reality, isn't really true. Yes, kitchen organization in (a few of the) top French restaurants remains an example for the whole world to admire and to try to duplicate, but that said, the rigor of the culinary effort and the final results of what you get on your plate are not automatically derived from that apparently perfect, professional organization. Is there more rigor at Michel Bras' than at Mugaritz? Not really. ← Actually the day we lunched there Santi was in the kitchen and literally working. We vi
  13. Actually there is a 110 Euro menu for lunch at Arpege which is good value. Since you are not going to l'Astrance I thought it may be interesting. Barbot is a student of Passard. Presently. I still prefer Arpege. My blog partner Mikael Johnson wrote a review of Ambassadeurs. The chef is a Ducasse protege and presently you may eat there even better than Ducasse (which is not in your program). Lunch at 80 Euro or so is a great value there and may give you and idea. If i may say, at L'Ambroisie, since it is your first visit, it may be wise to ask Monsieur Pascal for advice and sequencing. They
  14. Hope you are not eating both lunch and dinner at these restaurants. Then dinner will be shortshrifted. If it were me, and if the number remains the same, I would give a try to Arpege (go menu deg) and Les Ambassadeurs (dinner, lunch menu is good but his best is reserved for dinner). I would take out Taillevent and L'Atelier. The room at l'Ambroisie is fit for dinner more but cooking should be the same. Please write your overall impression and have a great time.
  15. I have been at Can Roca and Can Fabes 4 times. Presently Joan Roca seems ovewwhelmed. The new restaurant project, combined with catering business, combined with his teaching schedule and cook book projects seem to be taking a toll. The dishes are simply not well conceived or hastily conceived. He is also letting his youngest brother Jordi cook main dishes. He may learn in time but the only dish by Jordi was a disaster. Santi, on the other hand, has been better than ever. He has a certain rigor which in general is missing in top end Spanish restaurants.
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