Techniques for Lamb Ribs and Breast

[Chris Amirault]

Several years ago, I had grilled lamb ribs at a restaurant somewhere and have been haunted by the memory ever since. It was like magical lamb fat candy. I hadn't been able to find a source for lamb ribs in all those years, but today I stopped in at Jerusalem Market, a halal butcher (on Rolfe Street in Cranston RI for you locals), and he was happy to accommodate.

So now I have three pounds of lamb ribs in the fridge and nothing save a basic understanding of rib cooking to steward me forward. I think that this time around I'm going to make a dry rub of baharat, extra sumac, some zatar, and a bit of sugar, give 'em a good coating and an overnight rest, cook low n slow in the oven to get them close and finish them on the grill. But I'm interested in more recipes and techniques, because I'm going back for more and more.

I did find this recipe from Monica Bhide's great eGCI course on regional Indian cuisine, but that's more of a braised meat dish than I'm looking for over the last few summer weeks. Any other ideas?

[weinoo]

I used to just give them a few hours to overnight marinade (red wine, herbs, olive oil, garlic, s&p) and cook 'em on the grill with indirect heat...some wood chunks/chips add a very nice smoky flavor.

[Prawncrackers]

The only time i cook lamb ribs is when they are still attached to the breast. I know exactly what you mean by the 'magical lamb fat candy'; the layer of fat and skin that runs along the breast and ribs crisps up like no other cut and has bags of flavour. Though it's probably due to the fattiness of it that makes it such an overlooked cut. That's not going to stop you and i though is it?

Last time i cooked a breast of lamb i poached it gently in a court-bouillon for about an hour until tender and i could pull the ribs out cleanly easily. I took it out of the poaching liquor and let it cool overnight while pressed down. The next day i cut the breast down to portion sizes and fried it up till crisp. Very fatty but very delicious.

Edited August 18, 2007 by Prawncrackers (log)

[Anna Friedman Herlihy]

I just cooked lamb ribs for the first time about a month ago--I just did them as I would pork ribs. Basic spice rub (with a bit of brown sugar) put on a couple hours before cooking, smoked low 'n' slow with a wood fire over a water pan at about 225 until the meat was shrinking back from the bones and they were about to fall apart. Sauced for the last 10 minutes (with my homemade apricot nectarine habenero bbq sauce). They came out awesome! Not too fatty at all.

I also have a recipe that calls for starting them in the oven and finishing on the grill, but my opinion was why bother with the oven step--I'd rather have more smoke flavor.

I've also cooked goat ribs the same way essentially (as part of a whole goat), and they also came out great.

It's pretty hard to go wrong with ribs, as far as I'm concerned, as long as you know the basic technique (rub, low heat, water pan, don't sauce 'til the end).

The only other thing I thought about doing (and may try next time), is basting with a vinegar mop. Not sure if it's necessary though.

Oh, be sure to score the membrane between the bones so as to get plenty of rub flavor into the meat on that side of the slab.

Enjoy your ribs!

[Dave the Cook]

When it comes to lamb and smoke, I think a little goes a long way, and it's easy to overdo it.

Unless you're committed to a full-on grilling experience, I'd give them an hour or two over cherry or oak in your Bradley at ambient temperature. Then vacuum-seal them and put in a pot at 160 F for several hours. When they're nice and flexible, take them out of the bath, drain and cool.

Remove from the bags and cut into serving portions. Toss with your choice of glazes and finish under the broiler (for crispy fat) or in a hot saute pan (for more even glazing).

[Chris Amirault]

I'm more committed to saving my pucks for the Bradley until I have a few more things to smoke! Having said that, I was thinking along similar lines about the smoke -- too much smoke with lamb is a bad thing -- but my order is the other way round: no smoke until the end, after a while foiled in a 225F oven. I'm also wondering about a bottle of pomegranate molasses in my pantry that seems tailor-made for a glaze before hitting the grill.

Edited to clarify -- CA

Edited August 19, 2007 by chrisamirault (log)

[Dave the Cook]

I'm more committed to saving my pucks for the Bradley until I have a few more things to smoke!

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I'm seeing lots of red jalapenos around -- perfect for making your own chipotles . . .

[heidih]

I'm also wondering about a bottle of pomegranate molasses in my pantry that seems tailor-made for a glaze before hitting the grill.

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I have had success with pom molasses and good soy. I think lamb is strong enuf to take it

[Chris Amirault]

I've just finished up an interesting apricot habañero glaze for the ribs, which are cooking in the oven. Click here for the Recipe Gullet recipe.

[Dave Hatfield]

Hey guys & Girls we seem to have a lots of fuss for a simple dish.

Why not just grill the ribs with a modicum of Salt & pepper plus some fresh rubbed rosemary. Add some chopped garlic if you like, but keep it down.

Keep the grilling temperature down so you don't cook too fast, just enough to get a nice crisp crust.

I like lamb and feel strongly that it doesn't need much help to be wonderful. Too much rub/marinade/sauce just covers up the real lamb flavour IMHO.

[Chris Amirault]

The leftover glaze and the ribs:

The turned out well, though I think that a bit more time in both the oven and on the grill (the latter off to the side) might have been a good idea.

[rlibkind]

A couple of other possibilities:

Mark Bittman had a great recipe in Times Feb. 9, 2005 (if you can access the archives, which have a fee attached if you're not a subscriber, search for "Tabak Maaz") which basically involved first braising three-inch pieces of rib. The milk-water braising medium includes various central Asian-inspired spices (cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, cloves, fresh ginger, cayenne, tumeric, bay leaves, fennel seeds). After braising the meat is removed but the remaining liquid reduced and pan deglazed 'til almost dry, removing the spices but keeping the good bits, then browning the ribs in butter and garlic in the same pan to crisp, then removing meat and adding water to create a pan reduction sauce. (This recipe could also be made with shoulder chops, but I think nice fatty lamb ribs are best.)

Earlier this grilling season, I had my butcher give me the trimmings from rib chops -- the meat and fat he trims away in "frenching" chops and usually grinds into lamburger. I had him save that, attached to some of the breast rib, and he prepped them into roughly 2-3" bits. I marinated them in full-fat yogurt for 24 hours, then rinsed and dried and created a dry-rub with cumin, coriander seed, garlic, pepper, etc., and let that sit in the fridge for another 24 hours. It then went on the gas grill for indirect cooking.

[NimaCooks]

Hey Chris,

Those glazed ribs look delicious. I don't know if you have any more, but whenever I get lamb, I think honey and rosemary. The flavors really lend themselves well and you can either go more mediterranean by pairing with couscous and tabbouleh or american with some mashed spuds and maybe a grilled salad.

Happy Cooking!

[Shelby]

I can't believe there's a topic on here for this. Well, yes, I can .

I bought a package of meat that was labeled lamb breasts (I know, weird). They looked like ribs AND they were only $7 total.

I just opened up the package and they are ribs!

I'm going to lightly season and do them on the grill.

[rlibkind]

I bought a package of meat that was labeled lamb breasts (I know, weird).  They looked like ribs AND they were only $7 total.

I just opened up the package and they are ribs!

I'm going to lightly season and do them on the grill.

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Lots of butchers call them "riblets". They aren't ribs as in rib chops, but they are definitely ribs. The ribs incude the breast meat. Think of breast of veal; it's basically the equivalent cut from a lamb, which is smaller.

If grilling, be careful of direct heat since this fatty cut has a tendency to flare up, whether on gas or charcoal grill. I find indirect heat is best until I'm ready to finish it for serving; then I move over the fire, but watch them very, very carefully prevent charring. I'm not always successful.

[Shelby]

I bought a package of meat that was labeled lamb breasts (I know, weird).  They looked like ribs AND they were only $7 total.

I just opened up the package and they are ribs!

I'm going to lightly season and do them on the grill.

←

Lots of butchers call them "riblets". They aren't ribs as in rib chops, but they are definitely ribs. The ribs incude the breast meat. Think of breast of veal; it's basically the equivalent cut from a lamb, which is smaller.

If grilling, be careful of direct heat since this fatty cut has a tendency to flare up, whether on gas or charcoal grill. I find indirect heat is best until I'm ready to finish it for serving; then I move over the fire, but watch them very, very carefully prevent charring. I'm not always successful.

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Thank you for the tips!

We ended up searing them for about 15 minutes and then wrapping them in foil and putting them on indirect heat on the the grill for about an hour. OMG they were so good.

[FoodMuse]

Here's some recession proof cooking. I picked up 2 lb of lamb breast for about $2. Now what? I've googled the heck out of it and now know it is tough, flavorful with not much meat.

Anyone have experience with it. Also why is it called breast when it's all rib? LOL Sounds like braising may be the way to go. Recipes, stories, etc?

I have a stovetop smoker, but want tender ribs. Essentially, if I understand it properly, these are the babyback ribs from a lamb.

Thanks!

Grace

[Peter the eater]

A breast of lamb, to me, means the rib portions up front that surround the lungs and heart. Good for braising or perhaps stuffing with bread crumbs, herbs, bacon, etc.

I've got some in the freezer as well as some pork and beef ribs. That would be an interesting side-by-side-by-side intercostal comparison. Around here, beef is the most expensive and pork is the cheapest and IMO the most delicious.

[v. gautam]

Lamb ribs feature in 2 very famous preparations of Kashmiri Brahmans: 1) Kabargah; 2) Tabaq maas [maas means meat and tabak are small unglazed clay pans in which these ribs are sealed & baked.

The clay bottoms of flower pots are actually quite convenient; I cannot publicly advocate their use, for food safety issues. Such shapes lend to being sealed with dough, as is the traditional practice and then placed in a hot oven, where the ribs brown within the clay.

When reading traditional Indian recipes, you will notice the liberal use of ghee or clarifed butter. Indian lamb is very very lean compared to the American variety; heaven forbid we add any fat to the heavy layer already covering the breast here.

The basic procedure is simmering the ribs in a small quantity of salted water + milk [ 500 ml + 100ml per 1kg meat or 2.5 lb approx] to which ground fennel and ground dried ginger root has been added, a few cloves and turmeric [optional ] for about 30 minutes until almost all the water is absorbed and the meat is almost tender.

Remove meat. Cool gravy & strain, removing congealed fat. The little broth remaining can be added to the yoghurt in the next step. Or you may use it in a saffron or cumin scented pilaf.

A cup of thick naural yoghurt is beaten with some aromatic unsmoked paprika, salt, a touch of fresh garam masala [ green cardamom, clove, cassia or cinnamon, shahzeera, very, very lightly roasted, and a hint of saffron if you have it], and any broth if you choose. The ribs are dipped into this batter.

Now you may proceed in one of 2 ways:

1. Gently shallow fry in clarified butter until rich brown & serve hot.

2. Seal with into unglazed clay pots lightly wiped with butter and bake over coals!!

I am appending the Indian recipe, that I have interpreted above for your convenience. Please note that aniseed means fennel! Asafetida is an acquired taste, and you may substitute a few cloves of garlic in its stead.

http://www.koausa.org/Cookbook/44.html

Yet another famous dish. Yakhni, involves the signature flavors of this community, not just the fennel & dry ginger & asafetida but also mustard oil.

1 kg breast is simmered in 1 liter water to which 15 gram [1/2 oz] fresh root ginger grated or 7 grams [1/4 oz] ginger powder , 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, salt and a pinch of asafetida [substitute garlic] has been added. Simmer until fairly tender. Remove meat. Strain broth, defat, discard all seed etc.

Whisk together 500 gram [1 lb] thick natural yoghurt, 1 cup milk, 2 tsp fennel seed powder, 1 tsp powdered ginger, 1 tsp. sugar. Add strained broth and mix well. Reserve.

Pound into coarse powder 1 tsp. each black pepper corns and black cardamom seeds, dehulled, keeping them in separate piles.

Very gently, pound 10 green cardamom pods, & 1/2 tp. caraway seeds or preferably shahzeera [available from Indian mailorder], also keeping them separate.

Have ready 1 tsp. [or to taste] ground garam masala as indcatted for the previous recipe.

In a non-reactive deep dutch oven type of vessel heat several tablespoons of mustard oil to near smoking. Reduce heat. Immediately add 1 tsp. whole cumin seed +5 whole cloves +pinch asafetida [if using]. Stir so that the spices release aroma without scorching.

Add the yoghurt mixture, stirring carefully to prevent curdlng. Bring to a simmer, add meat, cook partly uncovered until meat tender and gravy thicker. You may serve later afer reheating, in which case add the aromatics then. Or add aromatics now, and serve hot.

This is a very mild dish eaten with steaming jasmine rice, deep fried lotus root chips and walnut-yoghurt chutney.

http://www.koausa.org/Cookbook/42.html

Edited August 16, 2009 by v. gautam (log)

[Nayan Gowda]

A classic western way is Sainte Menehould.

Here's a link to a recipe taken from Hugh Fearnley-Wittingstall's Meat Book.

http://www.recipesfor2.com.au/recipes/156/...b-ste-menehould

[rlibkind]

I like to braise them first, then finish under the broiler or the grill for crispness.

Bittman has a good recipe for tabak maaz, in which after braising the ribs are browned in the pan.

Bittmans Tabak Maaz recipe

BTW, $2 for two pounds is a great price. I usually pay $2.39 a pound at the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia.

If you can separate the meat from the bone, you can make lamb bacon.

[FoodMuse]

Wow. What great responses! This site and the good community on it never ceases to amaze me.

Peter the eater: I'm with you. Love pork ribs. I don't undertand why anyone would go for beef when given the choice.

rlibkind: this is prob what I'll go with. Bittman never disappoints.

Nayan Gowda: I will be saving this recipe, but I'm feeling lazy today. Just want to stick it in a pot.

and finally v. gautam:

Thank you so much for taking the time to write such an interesting post. I will definatelly use some of those ideas.

Grace

[Mr Wozencroft]

There many ways of dealing with it. I like to braise it with some aromatics and a glass of wine. When tender strip the meat from bone, cjop and make a ragu with it. Onion, a stick of celery. garlic and olive oil. Then simmer with a few chopped fresh peeled tomatoes and a dash of thai fish sauce. Really good cheap eats.

[Shalmanese]

I just bought a package yesterday at the farmer's market. Rubbed them with cumin, szechuan peppercorn, dried chillis, S&P. Put it in a 300F oven for 2 hours, let it cool down a bit and then crisped them up in a pan in the rendered lamb fat. Served it with saffron rice & tzatziki sauce.

First impressions were that they reminded me of chinese roast pork, except with lamb. The crisp skin on the lamb was some of the best I'd ever had but you need to serve this hot otherwise the lamb fat congeals unpleasantly in your mouth. Definitely need to serve this with something that cuts the richness otherwise it's just too much.

One curious thing was that when it came time to crisp up, the lamb didn't sizzle as it hit the pan. It was a bit disconcerting and I couldn't rely on sound like I normally do to tell me when to flip.

Edit: Now I need to find a reliable source for them. They're delicious but farmers market lamb ribs costs as much as supermarket rib eye which makes them very much a special occasion type of food.

Edited August 17, 2009 by Shalmanese (log)

[Chris Amirault]

I agree about the fat: it's a particular pleasure only enjoyed hot and by a few. (My wife hates 'em.)

I found that my local halal butcher (on Rolfe St in Cranston for RIers) is a good source for lamb ribs.