A Family Trip to Peru

[djyee100]

Doc,

I grinned when I read your account of lunch at Machu Picchu. I went thru the buffet line at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Hotel three times and tried many, many dishes, including the roast suckling pig and the roast leg of pork. In my defense, I'll add that for four days prior to that I was hiking the Inca trail, up and down the mountains, and subsisting on camp food. So I was due for a good meal. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Also, a question about cuy. Did it taste like any conventional meat to you? I never had the chance to try cuy (I can't say I tried too hard either). Others have told me that it tastes gamy, others say it tastes like chicken <sigh>. What did you think?

Finally, for people who will be visiting Lima: Try to tour the pyramid excavation that is going on within the city. The sight of this pyramid against a backdrop of skyscrapers is astounding. The catacombs in Lima Cathedral are also fascinating (but not if you're squeamish about piles of human bones).

[docsconz]

Doc,

I grinned when I read your account of lunch at Machu Picchu. I went thru the buffet line at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Hotel three times and tried many, many dishes, including the roast suckling pig and the roast leg of pork. In my defense, I'll add that for four days prior to that I was hiking the Inca trail, up and down the mountains, and subsisting on camp food. So I was due for a good meal. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Also, a question about cuy. Did it taste like any conventional meat to you? I never had the chance to try cuy (I can't say I tried too hard either). Others have told me that it tastes gamy, others say it tastes like chicken <sigh>. What did you think?

Finally, for people who will be visiting Lima: Try to tour the pyramid excavation that is going on within the city. The sight of this pyramid against a backdrop of skyscrapers is astounding. The catacombs in Lima Cathedral are also fascinating (but not if you're squeamish about piles of human bones).

←

I am in awe that you went to Macchu Picchu via the Inca Trail. We hiked Huayna Picchu to the top and that was plenty! They had a sign for it, but did not have the roast leg of pork when we were there. If I had to choose between the two though I was happy with the lechoncito!

The cuy was probably most reminiscent of rabbit, though it had a flavor all its own. How much of that was due to fairly aggressive seasoning with Andean herbs is another question.

I'm not sure what Pyramid you are referring to. The only excavation we saw in Lima was at Huaca Pucllana. We did visit the catacombs, but that was at The Convent of San Francisco near the Cathedral - fascinating place!

[docsconz]

Cusco Market Part one

One of my priorities in arranging our itinerary was to get to a local food market. it is one of my favorite things to do when traveling, especially if traveling within another culture. Our best opportunity time and otherwise was in Cusco. Our guide took us to the central market for a tour.

Although the morning (spent at Sacsayhuaman) had been beautiful, it started to rain just as we entered the covered market. Unfortunately it also got fairly dark making it more dificult for me to take the photos that I really wanted to. Nevertheless, I got a few that I could use.

We entred the market by the fruits and vegetables, which was a nice way to start.

Pepinos. I have seen these in my local supermarkets, but nowherre near the qualiy of these.

We sampled a number of different types of local fruit. Before we realized what he was doing, No.3 son was eating the rind in addition to the pulp of the cherimoya in the photo below.

Fortunately, he never got sick!

Lucuma. We encountered this tasty fruit most commonly in ice creams or mousses. It was the most unique fruit that I tried on the trip and one I hadn't experienced before Peru. I liked it.

A variety of Passion fruit. This was more tart and less flavorful than the passion fruit I am used to.

Mangos.

Avocado stand.

General view over a produce area.

More to come in one or two more posts. Warning: some of the photos from the meat/offal area are graphic.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[johnnyd]

Warning: some of the photos from the meat/offal area are graphic.

yyyeahh!!!

Bring it on you book-burning fool!

[Domestic Goddess]

Docsconz,

Like what Spongebob would say "I'm ready! I'm ready! I'm ready!"

[docsconz]

Docsconz,

Like what Spongebob would say "I'm ready! I'm ready! I'm ready!"

←

Unfortunately, I'm not quite yet Patience, my friends.

[Chufi]

John, thank you SO much for taking the time to give us this trip report. Having done a number of trip reports myself I know it's a lot of work, but you can be sure yours is very much appreciated! Threads like this are what makes eGullet great.

I'm anxiously awaiting the graphic meat pics!

Edited March 15, 2007 by Chufi (log)

[ludja]

Just incredible, docsconz!

When you come out to the Bay area next, be sure to stop by Mitchell's Ice Cream in the Mission district for Lacuma ice cream. (That was the first time I tasted the flavor and it is quite unique.) There are also 4 or 5 Peruvian restaurants in the city; some with a CA twist and some not. Your thread is pushing me to finally get to them. I think Melkor has posted about his experiences in some of the SF Peruvian restaurants.

[docsconz]

John, thank you SO much for taking the time to give us this trip report. Having done a number of trip reports myself I know it's a lot of work, but you can be sure yours is very much appreciated! Threads like this are what makes eGullet great.

I'm anxiously awaiting the graphic meat pics! 

←

Thank you, Chufi. Your trip reports have always been exceptional and something to look forward to.

The graphic photos are coming

[docsconz]

Just incredible, docsconz! 

When you come out to the Bay area next, be sure to stop by Mitchell's Ice Cream in the Mission district for Lacuma ice cream.  (That was the first time I tasted the flavor and it is quite unique.)  There are also 4 or 5 Peruvian restaurants in the city; some with a CA twist and some not.  Your thread is pushing me to finally get to them.  I think Melkor has posted about his experiences in some of the SF Peruvian restaurants.

←

Although I have never had the lucuma ice cream there, that is the first place I ever heard of lucuma. I will be sure to have some next time I am out there (perhaps next fall for a meeting) or anywhere else I come across it. I would also recommend it to anyone else who is curious. I agree with Ludja that the flavor is unique. While it may not be my absolute favorite, it is quite good.

[docsconz]

Cusco Market Part II

If you are only here for the graphic offal photos, I'm afraid that you will have to wait a little longer. Here are some more produce and general market photos. There are a couple of items that I am unsure of and would appreciate input from anyone who can identify them.

These little vegetables are amongst those that I can't recall what they are even though I was told. The shape is quite funky and interesting. So far as I know I did not have the opportunity to try any of them.

Bread sellers.

Yuca Root

Bags of chuño and other things.

Bulk quinoa.

These are also items whose names I was told, but have forgotten. I believe that the yellowish stuff in the foreground is a shredded root that has been pickled and the reddish stuff behind it are some sort of fish roe, but I would be happy to consider other possibilities.

Cheese

General market shot. The woman in the foreground is selling various citrus.

Restaurant.

The roving sales woman. I believe that she was selling roasted potatoes and other cooked items.

Chocolate and coffee.

Peruvian candies.

Greens and baskets.

Aji amarilla.

More to come...

[djyee100]

I'm not sure what Pyramid you are referring to. The only excavation we saw in Lima was at Huaca Pucllana. We did visit the catacombs, but that was at The Convent of San Francisco near the Cathedral - fascinating place!

←

Yes, the pyramid I was referring to was the Huaca Pucllana.

The catacombs were at the San Francisco Church, not Lima Cathedral. Sorry for the inaccuracy. I toured the catacombs on my first day in Peru, still groggy from the long flight. That first day was a jumble of impressions.

[docsconz]

I'm not sure what Pyramid you are referring to. The only excavation we saw in Lima was at Huaca Pucllana. We did visit the catacombs, but that was at The Convent of San Francisco near the Cathedral - fascinating place!

←

Yes, the pyramid I was referring to was the Huaca Pucllana.

The catacombs were at the San Francisco Church, not Lima Cathedral. Sorry for the inaccuracy. I toured the catacombs on my first day in Peru, still groggy from the long flight. That first day was a jumble of impressions.

←

I can relate. I'm not sure that my whole trip wasn't a jumble of impressions, but what a jumble!

[little ms foodie]

LOVE your market pictures! they remind me not only of your wonderful market pictures from mexico but all the markets I also have been lucky enough to go to around the world! thank you.

[docsconz]

LOVE your market pictures! they remind me not only of your wonderful market pictures from mexico but all the markets I also have been lucky enough to go to around the world! thank you.

←

Always a pleasure, Wendy. Thanks for the feedback.

[Caarina]

John,

This has been wonderful. I am truly enjoying this culinary journey. If you have the chance to pick up the following books, they are very helpful and can help you reproduce some of those delicious recipes at home.

The Art of South American Cooking by Felipe Rojas Lombardi (Peruvian)

and

The South American Table by Maria Baez Kijac (Ecuadorean)

YUM.

Caarina

[Davydd]

Doc,

Your pictures are fantastic. You have a great eye for capturing a scene. I'm thoroughly enjoying them and getting a fill in for many of the things I missed.

[docsconz]

John,

This has been wonderful.  I am truly enjoying this culinary journey.  If you have the chance to pick up the following books, they are very helpful and can help you reproduce some of those delicious recipes at home.

The Art of South American Cooking by Felipe Rojas Lombardi (Peruvian)

and

The South American Table by Maria Baez Kijac (Ecuadorean)

YUM.

Caarina

←

Thanks for the recommendations, Caarina. I am kicking myself for passing up some good looking books that we saw in Lima, especially one on Ceviche.

[docsconz]

Doc,

Your pictures are fantastic. You have a great eye for capturing a scene. I'm thoroughly enjoying them and getting a fill in for many of the things I missed.

←

Thanks Davydd, although it doesn't seem as if you missed too much!

[Sarabeth]

Your closeups are fantastic. Did you say what type of camera you were using? I'm glad to see the photos from the market. I've arranged to have an entire free day in Cusco when we travel there in April, so I'm taking notes from your post!

Wonderful, wonderful, and I too, am eagerly awaiting the "offal" truth.

(sorry, very bad...)

[constanela]

I'll try to help with some of the identifications. I think the shredded yellow root vegetable is olluco, one of the many varieties of tubers found only in Peru. It is traditional eaten with charqui (llama jerkey...did you happen to see that at the market too?). The olluco is delicious with salsa criolla, the fresh onion/lime/aji salsa (I think I saw a photo on your earlier post) that is served at practically every Peruvian meal. The fish roe is called hueveras (traditionally eaten at breakfast after the fisherman bring in their fresh catch). It's a generic term, just like "roe" and I'm afraid I can't identify the type of fish, though.

I have no idea what the green alien vegetables are. I showed the photo to a Peruvian, and she didn't recognize them either.

Did you have a chance to eat at Map Restaurant while in Cusco? That was my favorite restaurant there and I had some memorable strawberries in purple corn syrup.

Thanks for the great picks! I particularly enjoyed your shot of a typical Cuzqueńa street with the colonial architecture atop the original Inca walls. Can't wait to see the offal!

[docsconz]

Your closeups are fantastic. Did you say what type of camera you were using? I'm glad to see the photos from the market. I've arranged to have an entire free day in Cusco when we travel there in April, so I'm taking notes from your post!

Wonderful, wonderful, and I too, am eagerly awaiting the "offal" truth.

(sorry, very bad...)

←

Thanks, Sarabeth. You will enjoy your trip! BTW, I've been known to come up with a few bad puns every now and again I love 'em.

[docsconz]

I'll try to help with some of the identifications.  I think the shredded yellow root vegetable is olluco, one of the many varieties of tubers found only in Peru.  It is traditional eaten with charqui (llama jerkey...did you happen to see that at the market too?).  The olluco is delicious with salsa criolla, the fresh onion/lime/aji salsa (I think I saw a photo on your earlier post) that is served at practically every Peruvian meal. The fish roe is called hueveras (traditionally eaten at breakfast after the fisherman bring in their fresh catch).  It's a generic term, just like "roe" and I'm afraid I can't identify the type of fish, though.

I have no idea what the green alien vegetables are. I showed the photo to a Peruvian, and she didn't recognize them either.

Did you have a chance to eat at Map Restaurant while in Cusco?  That was my favorite restaurant there and I had some memorable strawberries in purple corn syrup.

Thanks for the great picks!  I particularly enjoyed your shot of a typical Cuzqueńa street with the colonial architecture atop the original Inca walls. Can't wait to see the offal!

←

Erin, thanks for supplying the info. I believe that you are correct. MAP Cafe will be coming up within the next few installments.

[ludja]

I don''t thnk anyone has mentioned this yet, but I just noticed that the March issue of Saveur has an article on northern Peru called, "Ancient Hunger". The recipes are for the following:

Yuca Hervida (Boiled yucca)

Sudado de Pescado (Huanchaco-style fish stewed in tomatoes and chiles)

Cebiche de Mero al Estilo de Huanchaco (Grouper ceviche)

Salsa de Aji Escabeche y Paico (Andean yellow chile and epazote salsa)

Pepian de Garbanzos (Chickpea porridge with chile oil)

[godito]

Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pachu Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

←

Cochabamba... I was born there!

In Bolivia, they know cochabambinos as the ones who really enjoy eating. There's typical food to be had at virtualy every hour of the day!. And the pacha mama stuff, I still do it, spilling a bit of my beer on the floor.

Sorry, this was a bit off topic...