A Family Trip to Peru

[docsconz]

I had Kapche with Mushrooms. Kapche is considered a soup, though it is so thick it seemed more like a porridge to me. It was made from fava beans, eggs, potatoes, queso fresco amongst other ingredients and seasonings. This version had fresh mushrooms in it.

Somehow, that name evokes Korean Chap Chae , a sort of chop suey. Could there be an Asian, particularly Korean influence on Peruvian cuisine?

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There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

[docsconz]

I am really enjoying this. Thanks, John.

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Thank you, Jeff. I am glad that you are. Your posts on Ecuador have helped to stimulate my interest in this part of South America. Some day, I hope to visit that country as well as perhaps a return visit to the many fascinating areas of peru that we missed this go-round.

[docsconz]

Dosconz, I am enjoying this grastrotour of Peru immensely. Thank you for doing this.

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This is my pleasure to do. Thank you, Doddie, for taking the time from doing your excellent blog to share your interest and kind words here. Unfortunately, between doing this and other things i haven't had the time to do more than lurk and read your fascinating blog.

[Domestic Goddess]

Dosconz, I am enjoying this grastrotour of Peru immensely. Thank you for doing this.

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This is my pleasure to do. Thank you, Doddie, for taking the time from doing your excellent blog to share your interest and kind words here. Unfortunately, between doing this and other things i haven't had the time to do more than lurk and read your fascinating blog.

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Doddie beams happily while eagerly awaiting more awesome pictures from Docsconz.

[docsconz]

Dosconz, I am enjoying this grastrotour of Peru immensely. Thank you for doing this.

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This is my pleasure to do. Thank you, Doddie, for taking the time from doing your excellent blog to share your interest and kind words here. Unfortunately, between doing this and other things i haven't had the time to do more than lurk and read your fascinating blog.

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Doddie beams happily while eagerly awaiting more awesome pictures from Docsconz.

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More are certainly coming as I am only into the second day of a ten day trip! I have to say, that your blog has been fascinating. Korean and Filipino food are two cuisines that I have relatively little familiarity with.

[judiu]

Wow, another wonderful opportunity to travel from my recliner! Thanks, John!

[Peter Green]

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

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There's an interesting story in there (one I'm not qualified to write) that could trace the food of Peru back through the Japanese emmigration to Japan in the 20th century (remember, Fujimori was head of state of Peru until 2000(?) and then fled for Japan where he was granted citizenship.

Peru was one of the areas that saw large Japanese immigration, and it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect that they brought with them the tastes of Empire, particularly from Korea, which they had taken control of back in the 1890s, and China, which they took over some time later.

It'd be a fascinating story to trace.

[docsconz]

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is considereed by many to be the purest extant version of an Inca village as, unlike most, Inca communities, it was never fully destroyed by the conquistadores. The main town exists with the grids and stonework of that earlier Inca epic. It is also the site where the post conquest, Inca leader, Manco Inca, took his last valiant stand against the Spaniards. We visited the town mostly for the history, architecture and culture, but it was not without its culinary interest as well.

After our ascent and return from the ruins above the town, we walked through the streets of the town observing the ancient organization as the households were divided into blocks called "kanchas" that surrounded central patios. Our guide brought us to one kancha, where we had an opportunity to observe the household and its organization.

One are of this kancha had particular interest to those with a culinary curiosity. It was a sort of combined pantry and family altar.

The cuy or guinea pigs were kept here and most of them tended to stay near the fire. Like with the alpacas getting to know these critters subsequently created some problems with the ability of No.3 son to enjoy their culinary attributes. No. 2 son and the rest of us were able to overcome that.

The rest of the pantry held items typical to the Andean diet.

An array of items for culinary use. There were freeze-dried (chuño) and fresh potatoes, quinoa, corn and fava beans.

Chuño Blanco. According to Eat Smart in Peru,

In the Andean highlands, then and now, potatoes that were not eaten soon after harvest were preserved by a process of freeze-drying, and could be stored for several years without spoiling. The product...is a lightweight, skinless nugget with characteristic hardness, and chalky white color. White chuño is made with large, newly harvested, good quality potatoes - any of several specific varieties of bitter potato. The potatoes are exposed to freezing nighttime temperatures and covered with straw during the day to prevent sun exposure and elevated daytime temperatures. After four days of freeze-thaw cycles, they are submerged for about a month in the icy waters of Andean streams to remove their bitterness. the potatoes are again frozen, but only overnight. On the following day the are stomped on with bare feet to remove most of the skin and press out much of the water content. The potatoes are further dehydrated by  exposure to the sun for 10 to 15 days. Chuño can be ground into flour or softened in water for use in cooking.

Dried corn hanging from a rafter.

Quinoa grains.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[docsconz]

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

←

There's an interesting story in there (one I'm not qualified to write) that could trace the food of Peru back through the Japanese emmigration to Japan in the 20th century (remember, Fujimori was head of state of Peru until 2000(?) and then fled for Japan where he was granted citizenship.

Peru was one of the areas that saw large Japanese immigration, and it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect that they brought with them the tastes of Empire, particularly from Korea, which they had taken control of back in the 1890s, and China, which they took over some time later.

It'd be a fascinating story to trace.

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That would be interesting to trace not just direct Japanese influence, but what else they may have brought. While those Japanese that emigrated to Peru were not likely, I think, to bring much beyond their own local traditions given that they emigrated for purposes of economic opportunity, it is conceivable that some Koreans when under the banner of Japan may have made the migration and brought some of their own customs and influences.

[Peter Green]

Alright! I've been waiting for guinea pig photos!

[Caarina]

John,

This is awesome! I am really enjoying your commentary and photographs. The photographs of the quinoa fields were beautiful! I can't wait for additional installments!

C

[docsconz]

Alright!  I've been waiting for guinea pig photos!

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I particularly appreciated that the cuy were free-range!

[docsconz]

John,

This is awesome!  I am really enjoying your commentary and photographs.  The photographs of the quinoa fields were beautiful!  I can't wait for additional installments! 

C

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Thanks, Caarina. I hope to have time to get to the next installment a bit later today. It involves a stop at a chicharia.

[molto e]

Doc,

Before I get to my QUESTION...looks like a fantastic trip and your ability to take great photos in altitude is amazing. Where are the shots of you eating guinea pig...my childhood pet Creamy was an exceptionally smart guinea pig and I would have not been able to share that course with you. How were they prepared...what did they taste like...did they COOK them to order????

Molto E

p.s. I am not sure that I even want to know the answers to those questions

[little ms foodie]

Alright!  I've been waiting for guinea pig photos!

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I particularly appreciated that the cuy were free-range!

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LOL!!!

Did you find that many people spoke english or mainly just spanish? Can you talk about what you got out of doing an organized tour vs going on your own?

[docsconz]

Doc,

          Before I get to my QUESTION...looks like a fantastic trip and your ability to take great photos in altitude is amazing. Where are the shots of you eating guinea pig...my childhood pet Creamy was an exceptionally smart guinea pig and I would have not been able to share that course with you. How were they prepared...what did they taste like...did they COOK them to order????

Molto E

p.s. I am not sure that I even want to know the answers to those questions

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Patience my friend.

[docsconz]

Alright!  I've been waiting for guinea pig photos!

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I particularly appreciated that the cuy were free-range!

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LOL!!!

Did you find that many people spoke english or mainly just spanish? Can you talk about what you got out of doing an organized tour vs going on your own?

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English is fairly widely spoken, especially in the cities and around Macchu Picchu. In addition, we speak decent Spanish so that wasn't a problem in most places. In the Altiplano by Lake Titicaca we could get by with Spanish, but Kechua and Aymara - the native languages were much more ubiquitous. In any case, it was never an issue even there as our guides spoke Kechua, which leads into your next question.

While we did not go on a group tour, I arranged our itinerary, transportation and private guides through Vaya Adventures. There is no way that we could have done many of the things that we did, going entirely on our own. some trips in some countries I am very comfortable going entirely solo and feel that I can get good value that way. My wife and i will be returning to Spain this spring and I am planning the trip by myself including advice from friends. I find though that it is hard to beat planning a trip to somewhere one has never been with the help of a good guide. That worked great for me in South Africa and again here. Of course, I like to do my research on food and places to eat, though. I also like small group trips, especially those from Viking/CIA Worlds of Flavor and others such as Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures, which have been fabulous.

[cakewalk]

Chuño Blanco. According to Eat Smart in Peru,

In the Andean highlands, then and now, potatoes that were not eaten soon after harvest were preserved by a process of freeze-drying, and could be stored for several years without spoiling. The product...is a lightweight, skinless nugget with characteristic hardness, and chalky white color. White chuño is made with large, newly harvested, good quality potatoes - any of several specific varieties of bitter potato. The potatoes are exposed to freezing nighttime temperatures and covered with straw during the day to prevent sun exposure and elevated daytime temperatures. After four days of freeze-thaw cycles, they are submerged for about a month in the icy waters of Andean streams to remove their bitterness. the potatoes are again frozen, but only overnight. On the following day the are stomped on with bare feet to remove most of the skin and press out much of the water content. The potatoes are further dehydrated by  exposure to the sun for 10 to 15 days. Chuño can be ground into flour or softened in water for use in cooking.

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Wow. My head is spinning at the thought of how long it might have taken for this process to evolve.

This entire blog is great reading, thanks.

[docsconz]

Chuño Blanco. According to Eat Smart in Peru,

In the Andean highlands, then and now, potatoes that were not eaten soon after harvest were preserved by a process of freeze-drying, and could be stored for several years without spoiling. The product...is a lightweight, skinless nugget with characteristic hardness, and chalky white color. White chuño is made with large, newly harvested, good quality potatoes - any of several specific varieties of bitter potato. The potatoes are exposed to freezing nighttime temperatures and covered with straw during the day to prevent sun exposure and elevated daytime temperatures. After four days of freeze-thaw cycles, they are submerged for about a month in the icy waters of Andean streams to remove their bitterness. the potatoes are again frozen, but only overnight. On the following day the are stomped on with bare feet to remove most of the skin and press out much of the water content. The potatoes are further dehydrated by  exposure to the sun for 10 to 15 days. Chuño can be ground into flour or softened in water for use in cooking.

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Wow. My head is spinning at the thought of how long it might have taken for this process to evolve.

This entire blog is great reading, thanks.

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Thanks. I was thinking about that myself. How did this process develop? Was it an accident? Amazing. I didd get to try some of this later on in the trip. I will leave my impressions on it until I get to that point though.

[docsconz]

Chicha

On our way out of Ollantaytambo we stopped at a Chicharia called Aj'a Huasi or Inca Bar. While there we learned to play an Andean bar game called Sapo, which means frog in Spanish. There is a table set against a wall. The table has a number of slots on top and a drawer underneath. Also on top of the table is a brass frog with a slotted mouth. The object is to toss coins at the frog, ideally putting them through the mouth slot into the highest scoring pocket. The other slots all have scores associated with them as well. It is not an easy game sober. I can only imagine how difficult it must get after a couple of pints of chicha de jora!

What is chicha? Practically speaking it is a native, ancient version of beer that is most typically made from corn. The corn kernels are left to germinate, then once germinated the corn becomes "jora" they have the malt sugars extracted after a drying process (usually by having been left in the sun) by mashing and soaking. The mash is boiled for three hours and then it is left to ferment for several days generally in a large earthenware pot. Chichas can be made from any number of plants including quinoa, wheat, barley, and even garbanzos. In addition other juices can be added such as macerated strawberries. The alcohol level of chichas tends to be low. Chicha Morada is a non-alchoholic chicha made from blue corn and pineapple.

A sampling of different varieties of corn available in Peru.

Germinated corn kernels used to make chicha.

The boiled mash is drained into an earthenware pot for fermentation.

The mash. Making chicha is generally done by women.

Our guide, Julio, explaining the process, with a glass of chicha de jora on the table.

Our hostess serving a frutillada, a chicha with macerated strawberries added that is very popular in the Cusco area.

A glass of the frutillada. The powder on top is ground coriander. The flavored chicha was used to follow the regular chicha. Both were actually quite tasty. The strawberry frutillada was particularly popular with the rest of the family as each of us drained several glasses.

So that we wouldn't be drinking on an empty stomach, we were given Andean "popcorn" or cancha to nibble on. These crisp, toasted kernels reminded me of "corn nuts" at home. They were very addictive.

Still life with chuño, maize, rocotos and tomates de arbol.

Chuños close-up.

Tomates de arbol or sacha tomate look like tomatoes, but they are a native tree-born fruit that supposedly has a piquant flavor to it. Unfortunately, I did not knowingly try any of these during our visit.

Rocotos and Sacha tomates.

[Domestic Goddess]

Chicha

So that we wouldn't be drinking on an empty stomach, we were given Andean "popcorn" or cancha to nibble on. These crisp, toasted kernels reminded me of "corn nuts" at home. They were very addictive.

Still life with chuño, maize, rocotos and tomates de arbol.

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Simply beautiful!

[Davydd]

We stopped at that very same chicheria in Peru shown in this photo gallery.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Peru.html

Our more primitive chicha experience in Bolivia can be found here.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Incallajta.html

and here.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Cochabamba.html

Great pictures you have posted so far in this thread. We too made a vacation of it in Bolivia and Peru but with our adult family of two daughters, son, daughter-in-law, grandson (born in Bolivia) and two sisters-in-law. Our daughter-in-law, a cultural anthropoligist, could speak the native Quechuan indian language. That helped us get around a great deal in unguided tours.

[Sarabeth]

Could not have been a better timed post.. my husband and I are headed to Peru for the first time in April. Your photos are making us very hungry and very excited!! Did any of you have a problem with the altitude?

Thanks for sharing!!

[docsconz]

We stopped at that very same chicheria in Peru shown in this photo gallery.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Peru.html

Our more primitive chicha experience in Bolivia can be found here.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Incallajta.html

and here.

http://web.mac.com/davydd/iWeb/Site/Cochabamba.html

Great pictures you have posted so far in this thread. We too made a vacation of it in Bolivia and Peru but with our adult family of two daughters, son, daughter-in-law, grandson (born in Bolivia) and two sisters-in-law. Our daughter-in-law, a cultural anthropoligist, could speak the native Quechuan indian language. That helped us get around a great deal in unguided tours.

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David, that's a hoot! I'm sure that we were not the first nor will we be the last. It was a cool place, though. I enjoyed your photos as well. Seems like we had somewhat similar experiences. Having a Qechua speaker certainly helps for doing it solo. I'm sure that you will be able to reminisce a little more as i continue this report!

[docsconz]

Could not have been a better timed post.. my husband and I are headed to Peru for the first time in April. Your photos are making us very hungry and very excited!! Did any of you have a problem with the altitude?

Thanks for sharing!!

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You will have fun! The altitude can be a proble, though the coca tea was a real help (even if it might have been only a placebo! )

There's a lot more to come. I hope I don't spoil it for you!