A Family Trip to Peru

[Rebecca263]

Wow! Great Travelogue! My dearest friends just returned from a trip to Peru, the altitude really bothered the wife, but not the husband. I adore the potato dishes and Peruvian seafood that we could get in Miami. AND the chicha!

[docsconz]

Chinchero

After our chicha experience we headed up to the mountain town of Chinchero. This town is located in prime Sacred Valley agricultural territory as it broaened out from the valley to relatively flat arable land with lots growing on it. The purpose of our visit was essentially three fold. First was for a demonstration of native weaving and its techniques. Second was lunch and third was a visit to the Spanish colonial center.

This is Ms. Marleni, our hostess in Chinchero, who put together a truly beautiful and amazing local textile demonstration for us. We ultimately left quite a bit lighter in the pockets. She also put together a pretty nice lunch for us after the weaving demonstration. In the photo above she is showing us cochinilla, insects used for making red-based dyes. She, her family and her friends went through the entire process with us.

House made Queso Fresco. By the time I took the photo most of it had been eaten. We also snacked on some of the "popcorn."

Corn soup. This soup was also laden with the queso fresco. It was quite delicious and satisfying.

Andean "tortillas" made with corn and tarwi. Delicious.

Rocotos Rellenos. I loved these things, but one did have to be careful of olive pits inside!

Choclo or corn on the cob. This was not as flavorful as some I've had.

Herb and pepper salsa useful as a condiment from soup to nuts.

Here it is, Eliot Roasted cuy and potatoes.

Cuy detail.

Plated cuy and potatoes. The heads were served separately and are considered a particular delicacy. I did try a head in addition to the body, though somehow I failed to photograph them. The cuy was ok, though it was a fair amount of effort to get the meat off the bones. The preparation contained a fairly strong herbal component that I felt somewhat overwhelmed the meat. The skin was good though somewhat rubbery rather than crispy as I had hoped. The inside of the servings also contained various offal. The kidneys were particularly good. I did not get a liver in my half, but No.1 son, enjoyed the one that he had. No. 2 son ate his half, but No. 3 initially refused, eventually relenting to taste it. He did not eat more than that, but was a good sport and ate well of the rest of the meal. My wife ate hers, but this was not really her favorite either.

My family at the lunch table.

A view of the surrounding Chinchero countryside on the ride home.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[docsconz]

Wow! Great Travelogue! My dearest friends just returned from a trip to Peru, the altitude really bothered the wife, but not the husband. I adore the potato dishes and Peruvian seafood that we could get in Miami. AND the chicha!

←

Now that we are back, I want to make a point of finding some good Peruvian food here in the states. One place I really want to get to is Cucharamama in New Jersey.

[Caarina]

Ah... Cuy asado... when in Rome? right!

The delights of chicha. I didn't try the corn kind, but I did try the yuca variety in eastern Ecuador. Not something I would voluntarily try again, but I would definately try the corn variety, since I love atoles and other corn based drinks from Mexico.

Tomate de arbol is a delicious fruit. In Ecuador it's used in table sauces with aji, garlic and cilantro. YUM. I occasionally find it in my supermarket down the street here in the US. My favorite lunch was cream of spinach soup, with the tomate de arbol salsa topped with popcorn! (regular kind, not the yummy looking stuff you were eating) Popcorn is served like croutons are in soups as well as a snack.

Very interesting.. can't wait for more adventures. It makes me want to head south!

Caarina

[molto e]

.

Here it is, Eliot Roasted cuy and potatoes.

Cuy detail.

Plated cuy and potatoes. The heads were served separately and are considered a particular delicacy. I did try a head in addition to the body, though somehow I failed to photograph them. The cuy was ok, though it was a fair amount of effort to get the meat off the bones. The preparation contained a fairly strong herbal component that I felt somewhat overwhelmed the meat. The skin was good though somewhat rubbery rather than crispy as I had hoped. The inside of the servings also contained various offal. The kidneys were particularly good. I did not get a liver in my half, but No.1 son, enjoyed the one that he had. No.2 son ate his half, but No.3 son initially refused, eventually relenting to taste it. He did not eat more than that, but was a good sport and ate well of the rest of the meal. My wife ate hers, but this was not really her favorite either.

My family at the lunch table.

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Doc,

I can safely say that Cuy is not for me and I think your youngest may ask what cuisine that he can expect on future family outings. Did you see the preparation from whisker to plate?? What wine pairing was suggested with the Cuy ? Thankfully, you missed the headshots...will this be a dish that you will make at home ? My friend, you are a true gourmand...not sure what else to say other than that. Nevertheless, the trip looked great and your kids are lucky to have parents that will let them experience a WIDE range of things. I do have a suggestion for a place to take the family for dinner next time you make it to the city...Next Family Dinner Hot Spot For The Sconzos

Molto E

[AzianBrewer]

I had Kapche with Mushrooms. Kapche is considered a soup, though it is so thick it seemed more like a porridge to me. It was made from fava beans, eggs, potatoes, queso fresco amongst other ingredients and seasonings. This version had fresh mushrooms in it.

Somehow, that name evokes Korean Chap Chae , a sort of chop suey. Could there be an Asian, particularly Korean influence on Peruvian cuisine?

←

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

←

I have read an article about Chinese-Pervian restaurant a several of years ago. The word "chifas" is actually derived from chi-fan or zhi-fan which means "to eat" or "eat rice".

[miladyinsanity]

I had Kapche with Mushrooms. Kapche is considered a soup, though it is so thick it seemed more like a porridge to me. It was made from fava beans, eggs, potatoes, queso fresco amongst other ingredients and seasonings. This version had fresh mushrooms in it.

Somehow, that name evokes Korean Chap Chae , a sort of chop suey. Could there be an Asian, particularly Korean influence on Peruvian cuisine?

←

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

←

I have read an article about Chinese-Pervian restaurant a several of years ago. The word "chifas" is actually derived from chi-fan or zhi-fan which means "to eat" or "eat rice".

←

It's 'chi'.

Docsconz, I'm really enjoying your posts. Another place to add to my list of places to go.

[little ms foodie]

Doc, the cuy! wow! that caught me a bit off guard. So let me ask- do they skin them before roasting? Do they use the pelts? or is it just singed off in the cooking process? I've only had mackeral cooked whole with all inards intact- not sure if I could do that with the little critter. In restuarants is it also served whole roasted?

[docsconz]

Doc, the cuy! wow! that caught me a bit off guard. So let me ask- do they skin them before roasting? Do they use the pelts? or is it just singed off in the cooking process? I've only had mackeral cooked whole with all inards intact- not sure if I could do that with the little critter. In restuarants is it also served whole roasted?

←

I probably should have issued a warning for the paw shot The cuy is parboiled to remove the fur much the way feathers are removed from some avian carcasses. The skin is left on for the roasting. It, along with the head are considered particular delicacies. Our guide and driver went to town with the heads that came out. I tried it, but it involved a little too much gnawing for me to really enjoy it. By that time I was pretty full too. My sense is that it is a bit of an acquired taste.

[docsconz]

I had Kapche with Mushrooms. Kapche is considered a soup, though it is so thick it seemed more like a porridge to me. It was made from fava beans, eggs, potatoes, queso fresco amongst other ingredients and seasonings. This version had fresh mushrooms in it.

Somehow, that name evokes Korean Chap Chae , a sort of chop suey. Could there be an Asian, particularly Korean influence on Peruvian cuisine?

←

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

←

I have read an article about Chinese-Pervian restaurant a several of years ago. The word "chifas" is actually derived from chi-fan or zhi-fan which means "to eat" or "eat rice".

←

It's 'chi'.

Docsconz, I'm really enjoying your posts. Another place to add to my list of places to go.

←

Milady, I'm glad that you are enjoying this report.

I know the feeling about a list of places to go. There are so many places that I want to go. If only money and time were not issues! Not knowing what the future holds, I am doing my best to get to as many of them as I can while I can enjoy them.

[docsconz]

I had Kapche with Mushrooms. Kapche is considered a soup, though it is so thick it seemed more like a porridge to me. It was made from fava beans, eggs, potatoes, queso fresco amongst other ingredients and seasonings. This version had fresh mushrooms in it.

Somehow, that name evokes Korean Chap Chae , a sort of chop suey. Could there be an Asian, particularly Korean influence on Peruvian cuisine?

←

There clearly are strong Asian influences in contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Chinese and Japanese foremost based on large imigration late in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Chinese-Peruvian food is extremely popular all over Peru and served in restaurants called "chifas". Even outside of the chifas, the influence can be seen in basic Peruvian restaurants, especially in dishes such as lomo saltado or sauteed beef loin. Japanese influence is strong as well. For example, along with the native ceviche, "tiradito" is a style of serving and eating raw fish that combines the Peruvian technique of ceviche with Japanese sashimi techniques. As for Korean, I am not aware of any particularly strong influence, though it wouldn't surprise me. Your observation is very interesting though this dish did not have noodles.

←

I have read an article about Chinese-Pervian restaurant a several of years ago. The word "chifas" is actually derived from chi-fan or zhi-fan which means "to eat" or "eat rice".

←

Makes sense. Thanks for sharing it.

[docsconz]

.

Here it is, Eliot Roasted cuy and potatoes.

Cuy detail.

Plated cuy and potatoes. The heads were served separately and are considered a particular delicacy. I did try a head in addition to the body, though somehow I failed to photograph them. The cuy was ok, though it was a fair amount of effort to get the meat off the bones. The preparation contained a fairly strong herbal component that I felt somewhat overwhelmed the meat. The skin was good though somewhat rubbery rather than crispy as I had hoped. The inside of the servings also contained various offal. The kidneys were particularly good. I did not get a liver in my half, but No.1 son,  enjoyed the one that he had. No.2 son ate his half, but No.3 son initially refused, eventually relenting to taste it. He did not eat more than that, but was a good sport and ate well of the rest of the meal. My wife ate hers, but this was not really her favorite either.

My family at the lunch table.

←

Doc,

I can safely say that Cuy is not for me and I think your youngest may ask what cuisine that he can expect on future family outings. Did you see the preparation from whisker to plate?? What wine pairing was suggested with the Cuy ? Thankfully, you missed the headshots...will this be a dish that you will make at home ? My friend, you are a true gourmand...not sure what else to say other than that. Nevertheless, the trip looked great and your kids are lucky to have parents that will let them experience a WIDE range of things. I do have a suggestion for a place to take the family for dinner next time you make it to the city...Next Family Dinner Hot Spot For The Sconzos

Molto E

←

Eliot, Given that you enjoy things like this tuna head:

as evidenced in this fine post, I'm surprised that you would be so squeamish!

Seriously, I don't expect my kids to eat everything, but I do try to expose them to different culinary possibilities and to try to minimize any prejudices they may develop about food.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[molto e]

.

Here it is, Eliot Roasted cuy and potatoes.

Cuy detail.

Plated cuy and potatoes. The heads were served separately and are considered a particular delicacy. I did try a head in addition to the body, though somehow I failed to photograph them. The cuy was ok, though it was a fair amount of effort to get the meat off the bones. The preparation contained a fairly strong herbal component that I felt somewhat overwhelmed the meat. The skin was good though somewhat rubbery rather than crispy as I had hoped. The inside of the servings also contained various offal. The kidneys were particularly good. I did not get a liver in my half, but No.1 son, enjoyed the one that he had. No.2 son ate his half, but No.3 son initially refused, eventually relenting to taste it. He did not eat more than that, but was a good sport and ate well of the rest of the meal. My wife ate hers, but this was not really her favorite either.

My family at the lunch table.

←

Doc,

I can safely say that Cuy is not for me and I think your youngest may ask what cuisine that he can expect on future family outings. Did you see the preparation from whisker to plate?? What wine pairing was suggested with the Cuy ? Thankfully, you missed the headshots...will this be a dish that you will make at home ? My friend, you are a true gourmand...not sure what else to say other than that. Nevertheless, the trip looked great and your kids are lucky to have parents that will let them experience a WIDE range of things. I do have a suggestion for a place to take the family for dinner next time you make it to the city...Next Family Dinner Hot Spot For The Sconzos

Molto E

←

Eliot, Given that you enjoy things like this tuna head:

as evidenced in this fine post, I'm surprised that you would be so squeamish!

Seriously, I don't expect my kids to eat everything, but I do try to expose them to different culinary possibilities and to try to minimize any prejudices they may develop about food.

←

Doc, I guess one man's bluefin is another man's guinea pig - eh?

[docsconz]

Doc, I guess one man's bluefin is another man's guinea pig - eh?     

←

I like that...in several ways.

[docsconz]

Macchu Picchu

Macchu Picchu is an amazing place, although tis part of the trip was not really about food. Nevertheless I can't not put a photo of Macchu Picchu up so here is one with my family.

We spent two days and one night there with the night staying at the beautiful Macchu Picchu Pueblo Hotel in town. We did have a decent dinner there in the lovely dining room and a good breakfast the next morning. Unfortunately, I did not order well in the restaurant that night and I also did not bring my camera.

The best culinary moments in the area came during the afternoon of our arrival after we had completed a tour of the Sanctuary. We had lunch at The Macchu Picchu Sanctuary Hotel just outside the main entrance to Macchu Picchu itself. This was a buffet lunch with a wide array of choices.

While everything was pretty good there was one standout element.

It was a beautifully delicious lechoncito or roast suckling pig. Since the weather was so humid, the skin was not as crisp as it might have been, though it was still good. The meat, however, was moist and just so delicious! One could also return as much as one cared to...and I cared to - a lot

The highlight of the desserts for me was a lucuma roll, similar to a pumpkin roll in the US. Unfortunately, i did not take a picture of it.

The following day after we completed our visit to macchu Picchu and just prior to to catching our train for the return to Cusco, we had a quick lunch at Tonto's. I had heard a lot about the ubiquitous pizze in this area so decided to try some.

The pizze were tasty but not particularly remarkable. Though I wouldn't go out of my way for one, it was an inexpensive and reasonably pleasurable quick lunch.

[johnnyd]

Cuy asado!!

Finally I get to see it - the paw is awesome, doc - many thanks.

I worked with a fellow from Peru and he spoke frequently about these. For some reason, I came away with the impression that they were served on a stick or spit from the fireplace... or was my colleague pulling my, um...er, leg?

[Sneakeater]

No, that's a very common way of serving cuy.

[docsconz]

Cuy asado!!

Finally I get to see it - the paw is awesome, doc - many thanks.

I worked with a fellow from Peru and he spoke frequently about these.  For some reason, I came away with the impression that they were served on a stick or spit from the fireplace... or was my colleague pulling my, um...er, leg?

←

Hi Johnny. Thanks for checking it out. Like many dishes, I'm sure that there are a variety of ways of roasting and serving the cuy. What was served to us was, I am sure, only one way of doing it. It would not surprise me in the least if other people do serve it on a stick. Unfortunately, I did not get to see the cuy roasting, so I can't speak to the specific method used. Neither did I examine the roasted whole cuy closely to see if they had been eviscerated prior to the roast or only after the were shown to us. I suspect the former. The kidneys and liver were left in, but other organs were not served.

[prasantrin]

What bothers me most about this picture, is that it looks like there's a little bit of carpet fiber stuck to the pinky of his claw. It makes me think the poor little guy was running around the house when they snatched him up from the carpet to make lunch...

But I'd still eat him!

[docsconz]

What bothers me most about this picture, is that it looks like there's a little bit of carpet fiber stuck to the pinky of his claw.  It makes me think the poor little guy was running around the house when they snatched him up from the carpet to make lunch...

But I'd still eat him! 

←

Ha, I see what you are saying, but I am pretty certain that those little cuy were not running around on carpets! I think that they were some little bits of fur that did not come off earlier.

[docsconz]

Cusco

We returned to Cusco by train arriving at our hotel around 7:30PM. By the time we were checked into our rooms and freshened up it was close to 9PM. We were tired and not really interested at that time in exploring further. Besides, considering that we were staying at The Hotel Monasterio. one of Travel and leisure's top hotels in South America (No. 6 in all Latin America for 2006), we opted to dine in the hotel restaurant, Illariy, an elegant room off the main hotel courtyard. Unfortunately, the food, though attractively plated, left little memorable on the palate despite ingredients such as South American king crab, alpaca, Peruvian beef and a few other items.

Breakfast, on the other hand, was the best of the trip with an excellent array of fresh juices, fruit, charcuterie, cereals, superb croissants and pastries that were particularly notable for having been baked at such a high altitude, eggs to order, bacon and various sausages.

[godito]

Cuy asado!!

Finally I get to see it - the paw is awesome, doc - many thanks.

I worked with a fellow from Peru and he spoke frequently about these.  For some reason, I came away with the impression that they were served on a stick or spit from the fireplace... or was my colleague pulling my, um...er, leg?

←

I know in the roads of Ecuador, that is precisely the way to find them: crucified on a stick. Soooo good.

[Davydd]

Cuy asado!!

Finally I get to see it - the paw is awesome, doc - many thanks.

I worked with a fellow from Peru and he spoke frequently about these.  For some reason, I came away with the impression that they were served on a stick or spit from the fireplace... or was my colleague pulling my, um...er, leg?

←

On the Travel Channel Bizarre Foods Monday night they showed cuy being slow cooked on a stick in Ecuador.

[Davydd]

Doc,

We had similar experiences in Machu Picchu staying at that beautiful resort hotel in town.

In Cusco we ate most of our meals right in the hotel we were staying. Nothing memorable either. The one night we did venture out we couldn't resist an Irish Pub just around the corner from our hotel called O'Grady's mainly because our daughter-in-law's mothers maiden name was O'Grady. We probably should have ventured further. They didn't even have Guinness. Every sandwich imaginable was deep fried like a Monte Cristo.

In Lima we stayed in Mira Flores and walked down to the sea to a small shopping center hanging on the cliffs for drinks and snacks. The hotel itself enticed us in with free Pisco sours before dinner.

Our week in Peru was an arranged travel agent tour. It was OK, the food was good, but not memorable. Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pachu Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

I thought the trip to South America was a fabulous experience. Our whole family went down there to see our new Bolivian born grandson. Our son and daughter-in-law had been there a year living in a farm house near Sipe Sipe for her graduate studies. We took our two adult daughters, the same that gave us grief on cultural trips when they were the age of yours. They've changed. I hope yours enjoyed your trip. Their memories will grow.

[docsconz]

Doc,

We had similar experiences in Machu Picchu staying at that beautiful resort hotel in town.

In Cusco we ate most of our meals right in the hotel we were staying. Nothing memorable either. The one night we did venture out we couldn't resist an Irish Pub just around the corner from our hotel called O'Grady's mainly because our daughter-in-law's mothers maiden name was O'Grady. We probably should have ventured further. They didn't even have Guinness.  Every sandwich imaginable was deep fried like a Monte Cristo.

In Lima we stayed in Mira Flores and walked down to the sea to a small shopping center hanging on the cliffs for drinks and snacks. The hotel itself enticed us in with free Pisco sours before dinner.

Our week in Peru was an arranged travel agent tour. It was OK, the food was good, but not memorable. Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pachu Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

I thought the trip to South America was a fabulous experience. Our whole family went down there to see our new Bolivian born grandson. Our son and daughter-in-law had been there a year living in a farm house near Sipe Sipe for her graduate studies. We took our two adult daughters, the same that gave us grief on cultural trips when they were the age of yours. They've changed.    I hope yours enjoyed your trip. Their memories will grow.

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Davydd, our trips contain a number of similarities, especially at the beginning and the end. perhaps even the middle even though the locations are a little bit apart. I was very pleased with what our agent put together for us. I knew of good places to Cusco and we subsequently went to a few and were brought to another that I had no clue about. As is often the case, even though it might be fairly fancy, the best dining is often not to be found in hotels. Sometimes though, especially when traveling with kids, expediency takes precedence.