Z Kitchen

[robyn]

Each of those dishes sounds interesting (didn't taste them so I can't comment on the taste).

But if I had my druthers - the menu would be a little more "themed". Like pork with coca cola is very southern. Lemongrass anything isn't. Peanut butter and jelly goes with southern (and some other things) - not with lemongrass. I'd try to develop menus - well - like I said - based on a cohesive theme for the evening. Like I make wonderful lima beans - and I make wonderful pesto - but I'm not going to serve them at the same meal. Robyn

[Rebecca263]

Isn't it interesting how different people's attitudes towards food can be? I was just reading the aforementioned menu and thinking how delicious the contrast in flavors throughout the courses would be! I was actually thinking that the sweet current running through the menu is interesting, as well. Almost every course has a sharp flavor cutting a sweet flavor, in my mind. That is a fascinating idea. Bryan, I thought that sweets weren't your thing, what brought the idea of this thought provoking menu about?

[BryanZ]

Actually the different facets of sweet are what I was going for in this menu (at least the first three courses). The menu orginated because I wanted to figure out how to make a candied olive condiment that was crunchy but not totally dry like breadcrumbs. From there, everything just built on itself.

So, there was banana in the first couse for a tropical sweetness and the lemongrass for subtle acid. The lemongrass was also there to aromatically cut through the richness of the sunchokes. Then there were the bitter-sweet olives, the licorice-sweet fennel, and a passion fruit vinegar that I love with the fish. The coke and beet component harkens to "syrupy" sweet via the cola syrup and and beet syrup association and works really well with the soft, fatty pork. As for the steak dish, well...it was tasty.

Edited January 29, 2007 by BryanZ (log)

[robyn]

Isn't it interesting how different people's attitudes towards food can be? I was just reading the aforementioned menu and thinking how delicious the contrast in flavors throughout the courses would be! I was actually thinking that the sweet current running through the menu is interesting, as well. Almost every course has a sharp flavor cutting a sweet flavor, in my mind. That is a fascinating idea. Bryan, I thought that sweets weren't your thing, what brought the idea of this thought provoking  menu about?

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Beef with blue cheese - sweet? Do you think so? How does it tie in (keeping in mind that it's the main)? Robyn

P.S. to Rebecca from New Jersey. Pork with a coca cola based sauce (baste or whatever) is a pretty common thing here in the south (one reason is because Atlanta - Coke's home - is the 8th largest metro area in the US). Good but common. And generally a main. Generally served with something savory to make an interesting menu (you could serve it with sweet potatoes and marshmallow - or something like that - but that would drive most people into a sugar coma ).

Edited January 29, 2007 by robyn (log)

[BryanZ]

Yeah, don't have much to say about that other than it tasted good. As I've said here many times before, you can't win 'em all.

[Rebecca263]

Being born and raised in FLORIDA, I would be remiss if I didn't mention that, although I've heard of Coca Cola based recipes, I've never encountered one in life. It just wasn't done at LeDome, Left Bank and Cafe de Paris, the restaurants of my youth, and our cooks at home were Italian and French born, not from the American South. Thus, Robyn has really highighted for me just how great an idea Bryan has with this Cocal Cola use!

This recipe uses a classic idea and tweaks it, taking it to a new place, and a thought provoking one, as well! Kudos, Bryan, you have a great way of thinking, and your execution gets better and better.

I have to say, it's a great pleasure to watch an artist's growth from 'the beginning'.

This thread remains a favorite of mine, just for that reason. And, Bryan, your humble and friendly, open manner is also a reason that I believe you can have great success in the future, if the restaurant realm is where you go.

Of course, if you plan on being an attorney, well, superciliosness and cutting people down is more the way to be, so hopefully, you aren't headed in THAT direction!

As I am a great fan of cheeses, I would have enjoyed the blue cheese, but I'm not as old school as some people my age.

[KevinM]

A really great chef taught me the "secret" ingredient to a great roasted squash, Coke. Place the squash cut side up on a sheet pan and pour some coke in there. Season with S&P. Loosely cover with foil and roast in a hot oven. Delicious, makes great soup.

[robyn]

Being born and raised in FLORIDA, I would be remiss if I didn't mention that, although I've heard of Coca Cola based recipes, I've never encountered one in life. It just wasn't done at LeDome, Left Bank and Cafe de Paris, the restaurants of my youth, and our cooks at home were Italian and French born, not from the American South.  Thus, Robyn has really highighted for me just how great an idea Bryan has with this Cocal Cola use!

This recipe uses  a classic idea and tweaks it, taking it to a new place, and a thought provoking one, as well! Kudos, Bryan, you have a great way of thinking, and your execution gets better and better.

I have to say, it's  a great pleasure to watch an artist's growth from 'the beginning'.

This thread remains a favorite of mine, just for that reason. And, Bryan, your humble and  friendly, open manner is also a reason that I believe you can have great success in the future, if the restaurant realm is where you go.

Of course, if you plan on being an attorney, well, superciliosness and cutting people down is more the way to be, so hopefully, you aren't headed in THAT direction!

As I am a great fan of cheeses, I would have enjoyed the blue cheese, but I'm not as old school as some people my age.

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The Left Bank in Fort Lauderdale? South Florida isn't the south. Maybe southern New York - or northern central and south America - but not the "American South". Which is where you're more likely to encounter "coca cola" dishes. At the best restaurants - I don't know what they do - but they manage to cut through what I think is the sickening sweetness of Coca Cola. Another example of a pedestrian ingredient - like ketchup - which can be used to great effect in really good food.

As for attorneys (of which I'm one) - I don't think they have anything over chefs these days in terms of "don't play well with others". Last night's Top Chef was a great example of that. On the other hand - there are too many lawyers. On the third hand - there are too many wannabe chefs. On the fourth hand - it's easier to make a living as a lawyer than as a chef. Robyn

[CaliPoutine]

It just wasn't done at LeDome, Left Bank and Cafe de Paris, the restaurants of my youth,

Omg, my parent took us to cafe de paris( or was it crepe de paris) all the time. I remember the spinach salads and dessert crepes

On the fourth hand - it's easier to make a living as a lawyer than as a chef. Robyn

Not to hijack this thread, but if you're an American Lawyer living in Canada, its easier to be a chef!!

[BryanZ]

A meal for some cool friends this evening.

Menu

[wkl]

bryan, just wondering........why did you remove the skin from the chicken? nicely browned skin tastes good and would add a little more color to the plate, or were you going for something else with that course?

[Kouign Aman]

pnut butter powder, carbonated grapes + agave nectar.

That sounds like delicious fun!

[BryanZ]

bryan, just wondering........why did you remove the skin from the chicken? nicely browned skin tastes good and would add a little more color to the plate, or were you going for something else with that course?

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So cooking the chicken breast sous vide with the truffle butter is analagous to butter poaching. It's not really an application that suits itself well to chicken with skin. The color on the plate is lacking I admit, but I guess that's what the bright puree is for. I do love crispy chicken skin though. Daniel Humm at EMP does the most amazingly thin crispy chicken wafer that I'd love to figure out.

[wkl]

gotcha.

how long did you sv the chicken? what temp?

you've probably checked out the ideas in food site, iirc there's some pic's somewhere and maybe some text on crisp chicken skin used as chips, garnish, etc.

[Daniel]

bryan, just wondering........why did you remove the skin from the chicken? nicely browned skin tastes good and would add a little more color to the plate, or were you going for something else with that course?

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So cooking the chicken breast sous vide with the truffle butter is analagous to butter poaching. It's not really an application that suits itself well to chicken with skin. The color on the plate is lacking I admit, but I guess that's what the bright puree is for. I do love crispy chicken skin though. Daniel Humm at EMP does the most amazingly thin crispy chicken wafer that I'd love to figure out.

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Really pretty Bryan, as all your food is.. Maybe you could take the chicken skin and fry it on its own and then plate it.. Kind of make like chicharrones and add it some place..

[robyn]

In my experience - people like my husband who are great white meat fans are not great fans of skin. So probably no harm done not doing the skin. I am not sure that chicken skin would hold up to separate cooking (if you're a home chef - it's really a delicate thing to deal with - very thin - hardly any fat). OTOH - you can do great things with turkey skin. Robyn

[Qwerty]

Why not crisp it up after poaching it? Or coat it in eggwash, flour, semolina, etc, then pan crisp it after it comes out?

Sous vide chicken is great, but I always miss the crunchy skin/coating.

Why serve 2 seafood courses then 2 poultry courses back to back? Not being critical just curious what the thought process was behind it. Why no starch?

[blais]

Sometimes we tend to think too much, or maybe just me...

Put the skin on a tray in a low oven and keep an eye on it, thats it. Crispy, bubbly, seperate skin.

Serve with coleslaw sorbet or white gravy ice cream as a canape.

[Daniel]

I would go with blais's idea..

[Dave the Cook]

I agree, Daniel.

Sometimes we tend to think too much, or maybe just me...

Put the skin on a tray in a low oven and keep an eye on it, thats it. Crispy, bubbly, seperate skin.

Serve with coleslaw sorbet or white gravy ice cream as a canape.

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I can confirm that this works: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=36534

[BryanZ]

gotcha.

how long did you sv the chicken? what temp?

you've probably checked out the ideas in food site, iirc there's some pic's somewhere and maybe some text on crisp chicken skin used as chips, garnish, etc.

←

60C in the bath for a few hours. The time isn't all that important as long as it's in moderation.

Yes, there is, I probably read it at some point. I should go dig that up.

Why not crisp it up after poaching it? Or coat it in eggwash, flour, semolina, etc, then pan crisp it after it comes out?

Sous vide chicken is great, but I always miss the crunchy skin/coating.

Why serve 2 seafood courses then 2 poultry courses back to back? Not being critical just curious what the thought process was behind it. Why no starch?

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These cats were staying away from red meat. I mean two seafood is quite common since one is shellfish, one fish. And duck is pretty meaty for not being like big, red-meated animal.

Sometimes we tend to think too much, or maybe just me...

Put the skin on a tray in a low oven and keep an eye on it, thats it. Crispy, bubbly, seperate skin.

Serve with coleslaw sorbet or white gravy ice cream as a canape.

←

Love the idea, and I bet it would fly here. What I'm ultimately going for, however, is a perfectly smooth glass of skin that's impossibly thin. If you've been to Eleven Madison Park recently Chef Humm does this. That's the benchmark, but what's been featured on Ideas in Food is very similar.

[chiantiglace]

Bryan, have you ever thought of doing something different with dessert than carbonated fruit.

Also, I must say by reading the menu's all of the food sounds delicious, I love the ideas, but when I look at the plating, even though the components look right I dont feel intrigued to eat so much. It almost makes me feel cold, maybe thats the El Bulli effect on me though.

[BryanZ]

I do the carbonated fruit for two reasons. First, people really like it. Second, my pastry skills are, shall we say, in perpetual development. In all seriousness, however, I don't post all of my menus here and I do occasionally venture into foreign pastry land. For example, for most first time visitors I'll do the carbonate fruit. For repeats I'm not going to serve the same thing. If you want to give me ideas, I'm more than willing to give them a try.

I will admit that my food is very simple, bordering on sparse. I think the problem or issue of contention some people have is that my food isn't quite brimming with soul in the traditional sense, nor does it really push the presentation boundaries. I make no apologies for this but it is something that I do consider.

My development goal is not so much to make the food more avant garde but to make each dish more holistic and less formulaic. I've just come back from a week of ridiculous eating in Europe and came to the realization that a good dish is incredibly easy to make, be it in the classical or modern framework. What is really inspirational and challenging is making a great dish whose components seem made for each other and really sum up to something greater than its individual attributes. I feel like this is particularly challenging in the modern framework because the cook already starts at something of a disadvantage by seving diners what is initially "unfamiliar."

[robyn]

I do the carbonated fruit for two reasons.  First, people really like it.  Second, my pastry skills are, shall we say, in perpetual development.  In all seriousness, however, I don't post all of my menus here and I do occasionally venture into foreign pastry land.  For example, for most first time visitors I'll do the carbonate fruit.  For repeats I'm not going to serve the same thing.  If you want to give me ideas, I'm more than willing to give them a try.

I will admit that my food is very simple, bordering on sparse.  I think the problem or issue of contention some people have is that my food isn't quite brimming with soul in the traditional sense, nor does it really push the presentation boundaries.  I make no apologies for this but it is something that I do consider. 

My development goal is not so much to make the food more avant garde but to make each dish more holistic and less formulaic.  I've just come back from a week of ridiculous eating in Europe and came to the realization that a good dish is incredibly easy to make, be it in the classical or modern framework.  What is really inspirational and challenging is making a great dish whose components seem made for each other and really sum up to something greater than its individual attributes.  I feel like this is particularly challenging in the modern framework because the cook already starts at something of a disadvantage by seving diners what is initially "unfamiliar."

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Pastry in the south is really hard unless you keep your A/C on 64 or have a lot of special gizmos in the kitchen to keep the dough from getting hot and sticky. Like marble slabs - and someone to clean up after you've thrown flour all over everything . Pasta is similarly difficult for the same reasons. I have the added disadvantage of a black kitchen floor. Every time I try this stuff - it's a total mess.

I like your idea of the "made for one another". I made a dish last night that seems trite. Corned beef hash. But for it to taste really great - you need good leftovers from the corned beef and potatoes from St. Patrick's day. And totally fresh eggs that poach well. I'm not sure that there is any "modern" way of cooking this dish that would be better than the original. Perhaps something with the eggs? Robyn

P.S. I do make pies - but I use Mrs. Smith's frozen pie crusts. Not only are they easy - but they are better than most that can be turned out in a Florida kitchen. Also - I have a nice recipe for individual "shortbreads" from Williams Sonoma. They're not really shortbreads - more of a light lemony cake. That pairs well with any kind of fruit filling. Might work well with your carbonated fruit.

Edited March 20, 2007 by robyn (log)

[BryanZ]

I had the pleasure of cooking for eG member MVN this evening. The scallop, egg, and squid dishes I put together tonight are pretty much the final evolution of those I've been working with for the past few months. As I wind things down in the coming weeks I want to come back at the end of the summer with new dishes to refine throughout the year. I still have several other engagments in the next couple weeks, but I figured this was a good time to share and reflect.

Menu

I thought I had posted a picture of this exact version of the scallop dish before, but it seems I hadn't. Nevertheless, what matters in this discussion is the flavor profile, as the presentation stayed largely similar. The last I posted on eG, I was pairing scallops with roasted cauliflower and braised dried stone fruits. I like using mushrooms a lot more because it really kicks up the umami factor and is a stronger foil to the herbal, bitter sweetness of the fruit.

Egg

My obsession with the egg has continued. In my attempt to tighten up the dish, I thought I'd pare it down but do so intelligently. I've paired just about everything with the slow-cooked egg both at dinners and on my own. Here, I have the egg topped with truffle salt topped with sottocenere (semi-soft cow's milk truffle cheese). The toast with truffle butter further solidifies this theme, adds texture, and serves as functional eating untensil.

The Black Forest bacon I'm using now is a nice product; it's sweeter than the Nueske I had been using previously. I cooked the bacon in sliced chunks sous vide at 60ish C overnight. This cooking lightly solified the blocks so that they behaved as one piece of fragile meat. The thought here is that you pop the egg, you break down the bacon, and you get spoonable, scoopable bites. The bacon was broiled to crisp it slightly and the sugar in the glaze adds a lightly caramelized note.

Squid

The main difference in this dish is the availability of chorizo Iberico that I recently brought back from Spain. In the past I had been mixing smoked paprika into the beef filling, but the wonderful sausage significantly helped this dish. The mixture of wine, lemon, and pork fat makes for a better sauce than the garlic cream I had previously been serving.

Lamb

A newer dish I have yet to post on eG. Nothing particularly groundbreaking here. Sous vide at 55C for about 3.5 hours to get the meat meltingly tender. The rosemary honey takes the place of mint jelly.

Cheese

Unable to find ramps, morels, or peas, rhubarb was my spring ingredient of choice. Here a light puree was made and slightly thickened with a touch of xanthan to give it a smoother, more "dessert sauce" like texture.. At the rear is a raw pear chutney with a bit of ginger and meyer lemon juice. I love idiazabal and thought that the Cleron's inherent woodsiness would be a good transition from the pineyness of the rosemary in the previous course.

Dessert

Rum-roasted pineapple, passion fruit seeds, chai ice cream, all topped with mango foam. A lot of textures going on here. We had a bit of a problem with the mango foam (post-photo); things got messy. It happens.