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How important are amuses?


Pan

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How many of you find that the quality of the amuses is a major factor in your evaluation of restaurants, or even in deciding which restaurant to go to? What do you look for in an amuse?

Michael aka "Pan"

 

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How many of you find that the quality of the amuses is a major factor in your evaluation of restaurants, or even in deciding which restaurant to go to? What do you look for in an amuse?

Totally irrelivant waste of time which can detract from the time and effort put into what you order in the first place.

Of the pre starters/desserts I've tasted in the past only the very highly skilled can pull it off in term of giving something startling, fresh or thought provoking.

The rest just makes you wonder what crap is coming next.

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I think that it is always a nice gesture, but unless it is something interesting and tasty it could backfire. i think it is de rigeur for a high end restaurant, though.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

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How many of you find that the quality of the amuses is a major factor in your evaluation of restaurants, or even in deciding which restaurant to go to? What do you look for in an amuse?

If I am at a restaurant for tasting menu dining, I have come to expect an amuse bouche. I find it enhances the entire experience and it says, to me, that the chef cares about how his diners' pleasure.

I fully expect the amuse to provide an explosion of flavors in my mouth which increases my anticipation of what will follow. The amuses may offer the chef an opportunity to use ingredients in very small amounts which would prove to be far too expensive to do as a full course, like caviar.

It is simply a tool to welcome you in a simple way; definitely not something to show off.
from Eric Ripert, December 2002 on eGullet ...

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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i would prefer NOT to be amused most of the time - many times what is presented isn't necessarily something i would even order off the menu. if i want something to amuse me i will order it - unless it is cheese - ohhhhhhhh, cheese...... good cheese

doc - it isn't even high end but medium to medium low end that seem to feel like they have to send something out....

Nothing is better than frying in lard.

Nothing.  Do not quote me on this.

 

Linda Ellerbee

Take Big Bites

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:biggrin: I heartily understand your reaction, Steve. What prompted this thread was this one in the New York forum. As for me, amuses (when offered) are part of a meal, but I find it hard to imagine judging a restaurant largely on amuses or choosing one restaurant over another because of the quality of its amuses. By contrast, I can definitely imagine choosing one Korean restaurant over another because of the quality or variety of the banchan, because that's so often a large percentage of the meal.

Michael aka "Pan"

 

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doc - it isn't even high end but medium to medium low end that seem to feel like they have to send something out....

Most of the high-end restaurants I have dined at have sent out an amuse or several. This is less so at less formal or fancy restaurants in my experience.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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:biggrin: I heartily understand your reaction, Steve. What prompted this thread was this one in the New York forum. As for me, amuses (when offered) are part of a meal, but I find it hard to imagine judging a restaurant largely on amuses or choosing one restaurant over another because of the quality of its amuses. By contrast, I can definitely imagine choosing one Korean restaurant over another because of the quality or variety of the banchan, because that's so often a large percentage of the meal.

I went back and read the referenced post, which I'd previously skipped over, in order to get some idea what you meant. :blink:

Around here, "amuse" would be the waitress telling a dirty joke! :shock:

SB (would give Jacques Pepin's Olive Rabbit and Radish Mice "amuses" a big "thumbs up") :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

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it isn't even high end but medium to medium low end that seem to feel like they have to send something out....

But is it better than the same tired old bread tray introduction to a meal ? :rolleyes:

gg-

i don't mind bread (warm thank you) with olive oil or a lima and parmesan spread(one place we used to go did this - when they saw john walk in they knew to send out two ramekins of the spread)or an interesting mix of breads(one local place here in nj, An American Grill has the most diverse bread basket i have seen). i have, however had some horrible chicken liver served on a cracker with some sort of a jam made with fruit, garlic and eggplant rollatini - emphasis on the garlic, and even mini cheese burgers. nice but it doesn't exactly set the mood for the roast pork, venison or even pasta i will be eating later. in my taste mind it can many times be a clash.

since i have had some bad times now i usually ask what the amuse for the night might be and if it doesn't fit in with my head's flavor profile i will just say something like "i'm sure it is wonderful but please save it for someone who might appreciate it more".

Nothing is better than frying in lard.

Nothing.  Do not quote me on this.

 

Linda Ellerbee

Take Big Bites

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Amuses are most often so-so in my experience. Especially when it's at a place you go to a lot, and they never change them. "Ho-hum, here comes the goat cheese again" is what comes to mind. :-)

On the other hand, if they're genuinely interesting little treats, then bring them on! Another thing I like is when restaurants use them to highlight a signature item, or something especially good that's out of the ordinary (a great local cheese, or a really nice mushroom, or whatever.) For example, we were at L'etoile in Madison, WI over the weekend. One of the signature items I've read about the restaurant serving is hickory nuts. The amuse consisted of a hickory nut and some cheese on a hickory-nut cracker. I really liked that, because I got to try this thing I'd been reading about regardless of what I chose to order.

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I'd say that in the very high end restaurants which offer you a long and thin menu which will keep you there for several hours amuses are difficult to distinguish from other dishes were it not because they're served first. So, in that type of restaurants, I use the same criteria to judge the amuses --thinking of elBulli snakcs-- than the rest of the dishes.

Then, there's the other category of restaurants where you're a regular. In that case, the amuses tend to be a subset of the dishes you haven't ordered but the chef wants you to try. Depending on the restaurant, the subset plus your order equals the whole menu. But that's a different story.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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I can say I really really enjoyed the amuse at Petrossian in NY...I think it was my first also. A little tower of tuna tartar with a sesame dressing. But I must say on my last trip to a lovely restaurant with "a diverse bread basket" I didnt get no damn bread...and it often comes with a chunk of Parigiano Reggiano...when it comes

tracey

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I think of the amuse as a surprise. I don't go to a restaurant expecting to get one and I don't expend effort trying to find out much about it. Most of the time it is some sort of raw seafood or other cold slimy thing, which is a texture my palate can't take, so I end up giving it away.

Sometimes it is delicious and interesting and then I am pleasantly surprised. Other times I don't care for it or end up giving it away, but since I didn't order it and am not paying for it, it doesn't take anything away from the experience.

On the other hand, I always love a place that gives free goodies at dessert, like petits fours or tiny cookies or something. But again, to me that's like a surprise and it plays no part in my consideration of whether to eat at a restaurant.

As far as my estimation of how good a dining experience I had, I generally don't give negative points for a lack of amuse or for an amuse I didn't like, but there would be bonus points involved for an amuse I enjoyed. Although I can't particularly remember any. I know I have had some good soups, but really the only thing that stands out in my mind particularly are the dessert goodies from Michelle Myers at Sona that were offered after our ordered dessert.

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gg-

i don't mind bread (warm thank you) with olive oil or a lima and parmesan spread

A good bread shouldn't have to be served warm ;)

Unconundrum, I agree completely with you. And I do like to use a good fava bean spread occasionally.

It is good to be a BBQ Judge.  And now it is even gooder to be a Steak Cookoff Association Judge.  Life just got even better.  Woo Hoo!!!

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gg-

i don't mind bread (warm thank you) with olive oil or a lima and parmesan spread

A good bread shouldn't have to be served warm ;)

Unconundrum, I agree completely with you. And I do like to use a good fava bean spread occasionally.

but it shouldn't be served ICE COLD as i have, unfortunately had it in many north jersey restaurants - ok - i will take it room temperature but i don't want it cold!!

Nothing is better than frying in lard.

Nothing.  Do not quote me on this.

 

Linda Ellerbee

Take Big Bites

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For me amuses are equivalent to a little bit of serious tickling before we start the serious business of eating.

They have to be small, a bite or so each, look good, and be diverse in taste, like a quick manifesto of the chef's skills, talent, imagination, and ability to make you travel the food lane.

Equally important is the aperitivo that adjoins the amuses. Should be suggested by the house, be very fresh, tantalizing the taste buds and at the same time furtive.

In my experience good amuses are an important component of the whole experience, and a necessary condition for a good meal only in $$$ upper to top end restaurants.

Not so for the other restaurants, where I expect things like house baked bread, and good quality olives to arrive as soon as I get to the table.

athinaeos

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