Chowdah/Chowder--Cook-Off 20

[Chris Amirault]

For a while I thought I'd show the entire mise en place for this meal, but as I got closer to serving my usual deep-fry nervous nellyism took over, so I gave up. But I'll keep this shot of the initial chowder meez just to make a point:

This is about a cup of onion, 1/2 cup of celery, and 1/4 lb of my home cured bacon. Unfortunately, I forgot that this batch of bacon is too salty to use without blanching until just before service -- by tasting the chowder for salt. The bacon, plus the extra-briny clam juice, made for a chowder that was, at best, bracingly saline.

I do chowder by feel: cook the bacon or salt pork gently; soften the onion and celery; add some clam juice, diced potato, thyme, a bay leaf, and lots of pepper; when the potatoes are nearly done add the clams and a good dose of half n half or cream; salt at the end. Or not.

So much for "feel." Live and learn.

Meanwhile, I'm happy to report that the clam cakes that I made using this Recipe Gullet recipe were perfect:

Friend, if that looks good to you, please do spread a little Rhode Island sunshine in your kitchen and fry up some clam cakes!

[Shalmanese]

2 1/2 pounds of meat from 25 pounds of clams? That seems surprisingly low yield to me.

[Chris Amirault]

Those shells are mighty heavy, actually.

Of course, if you're suggesting that the chef ate more than 1/4 pound while preparing the meal... well, I throw myself on the mercy of the court.

[Anna N]

A fast, easy chowder that can be pretty much made from the pantry. It's from Looney Spoons by Canadians Janet and Greta Podleski.

The MEP. Missing is sour cream and dried basil (nasty stuff) I used thyme instead.

Since I had to leave before completing this, I cooled it quickly and refrigerated it and then just before serving, reheated it and added the sour cream and whipping cream.

I served it with some ciabatta and it made a satisfying meal.

[Susan in FL]

Anna, it's almost your name brand of cream!!

[Anna N]

Anna, it's almost your name brand of cream!!

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Nah! It's off by miles.

[jayt90]

A fast, easy chowder that can be pretty much made from the pantry.  It's from Looney Spoons by Canadians Janet and Greta Podleski. 

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Anna, when I saw this easily assembled mise en place, I decided to make a Manhattan clam chowder, as I had a can of Gold Seal (Thailand) clams, and most of the rest.

I used Utopia canned tomatoes, Campbells's broth, and a bit of leftover Clamato juice. The chowder was great, but the poor Gold Seal clams were overwhelmed, just another blended ingredient.

I have had better luck with Arctic Surf canned clams (Clearwater, Nova Scotia) from the A&P Dominion group. They are about $6/can but well worth it.

[Anna N]

A fast, easy chowder that can be pretty much made from the pantry.  It's from Looney Spoons by Canadians Janet and Greta Podleski. 

...

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Anna, when I saw this easily assembled mise en place, I decided to make a Manhattan clam chowder, as I had a can of Gold Seal (Thailand) clams, and most of the rest.

I used Utopia canned tomatoes, Campbells's broth, and a bit of leftover Clamato juice. The chowder was great, but the poor Gold Seal clams were overwhelmed, just another blended ingredient.

I have had better luck with Arctic Surf canned clams (Clearwater, Nova Scotia) from the A&P Dominion group. They are about $6/can but well worth it.

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I shall certainly look for these for other applications but this "chowder" would probably not benefit from high-end ingredients. It is meant to be a fast and inexpensive meal rather than an example of a fine chowder. I will often make it when I have some leftover cooked fish to use up. I drop the leftovers in at the last minute to just warm through.

[johnnyd]

I do chowder by feel

I hear you there, brother! ...and I am all too familiar with "losing it" in the store! Those were some wicked nice looking clams y'had theyah, by jeezuss!!

Pity about skipping the blanche step. If you think of it next time (or still have this one), freeze the chowder in small containers and use as a base for future chowders - thus diluting the saltiness in new batches. I do this when I make mine too thick/starchy/fishy/salty, as the next batch can be short on an ingredient to compensate.

[Chris Amirault]

That is wicked smaht, Johnny. I'm such a chowdahead!

[johnnyd]

By the way Chris, what's a bag of 100-count cherrystones go for down your way? They're Narragansetts I presume.

Edited April 1, 2006 by johnnyd (log)

[Chris Amirault]

100 ct (25#) for $25. A quarter a pop.

[Dave the Cook]

There are never enough fresh clams in the stores that comprise my usual circle, so rather than go for canned (which can make a very tasty chowder -- I know, because in another life, I made it by the gallon, literally), I switched species and settled on shrimp. This is based on the clam recipe in the Frog/Commissary cookbook:

12 ounces shrimp, shells reserved

Half a lemon, or the carcass of a whole one

1 C white wine

2 t minced garlic

4 ounces bacon (I used smoked pork jowl, actually)

2 T butter

1/2 C chopped onion

1/2 C chopped carrot

1/4 C chopped celery

2 T flour

6 ounces diced Yukon Gold potatoes

1-1/2 C half-and-half

2 T sherry

1T minced chives

salt, pepper, cayenne, nutmeg to taste

First, the stock. Shells, the lemon and a pinch of salt, covered with water. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

Strain, then reduce to about a cup and a half.

While this was going, I tended to the bacon:

I've been using this stuff lately because for some reason, it's easier to find in the local grocery than slab bacon. Its got a light smoky taste, and not too much salt. Cubed, it fries up like little porky croutons:

I left the fat in the pan -- about a tablespoon and a half -- and sauteed the mirepoix, garlic included.

I deglazed with a little stock and let it reduce away to a glaze, then dumped in the flour and rouxed (if there's not such a word, there should be) it up.

Stirred in the almost-cool stock and added the potatoes:

(If I understand what johnnyd is recommending, this would be where I could stop and freeze.)

After a ten-minute simmer to cook the potatoes and let everything come together, the rest is obvious. Stir in the half-and-half, and let it come to a simmer. Add the shrimps, stirring often so they cook evenly, about three minutes. Garnish with the bacon and chives (and some really disappointing pasteurized crab) and serve.

Yum. Pink Chowder.

[Susan in FL]

That is yummy looking.

[johnnyd]

Wow Dave! Pity about the crab. Too delicate for chowder I suspect.

I made a chowder at the start of shrimp season with simmered shrimp shells and in my haste, didn't do the reduction step. Big mistake: the broth was way too weak.

I compensated by adding lots of seafood and when thawed, made a roux first (pix here). To which I added more shrimp.

I pull my chowders off the heat just about when the fish has cooked through or the clams have tightened up. Since I usually make a gallon or more, the residual heat continues to cook the brew and the flavors come together. If we have some that day, I'll draw off enough for that meal and pack the rest in the freezer or let sit another day in the fridge first.

Personally, I never put any dairy in until ten or fifteen minutes before serving, so it's in the chowder long enough to heat up and absorb everything before it breaks down.

Edited April 6, 2006 by johnnyd (log)

[Chris Amirault]

Cook-Off XXI: Risotto.

[Chantilly Bob]

What's a Doughboy? Hmm, it's only three hours from me...

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You wanna see doughboys (from Iggy's no less!)? Go here:

Iggy's Lethal Weapons

[ludja]

It's a early for the best corn, but I made a nice corn chowder a few nights ago. I made the stock for the chowder from the corn cobs, some onions and a bay leaf. I also added some lightly par-boiled asparagus and edamame in at the end.

Just to mention that the Sara Moulton recipe for salmon chowder using fresh and smoked salmon that JAZ pointed out earlier in this thread is great. Following JAZ's lead I aslo subbed leeks for the onions. I also added some chopped celery in the mirepoix.

Edited June 20, 2006 by ludja (log)

[Pontormo]

It's a early for the best corn, but I made a nice corn chowder a few nights ago. 

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Not any more !

I like turning leftovers into something completely different. Last night, I made a side dish called The Priest's Mistress's Potatoes or Sticchiu 'l Parrinu in Sicilian, basically a layered casserole of cubed potatoes, red onion, fresh tomatoes and oregano that stew under olive oil.

I used what remained tonight to make Corn Chowder. See the long commentary by a cook from Washington, D.C. in July, 2004; that was me before I knew about you all. Inspired by a wonderful source, I do think it is one of the best recipes around for one of my favorite things to eat in the summer when indoors with an air conditioner. A wonderful dinner with buttermilk cornbread (with kernels baked in, of course) and a simple Purple Cherokee tomato salad.

Of course there is one serving left and a bit of poached salmon, so...

[suzilightning]

last night was our traditional "night before thanksgiving"(ok- 2 nighs before this year) dinner - homemade manhattan clam chowder with oyster crackers.

this year i cheated and bought freshly shucked clams from my local fishmonger - 2 pints. sauteed half an onion in bacon fat, bay leaf, carrot, celery, potato cubes in the clam liquer and water. them chopped tomato. when the potato was just tender add the clams and turn off the heat.

took a pint to my neighbor for her mom and john has a pint and a half in the freezer for a future meal.

[Malawry]

bump

OK, I'm making corn chowder for dinner. Help me make this an outstanding version, please. So far I have some diced Yukons for the farmer's market, four ears of sweetcorn, homemade bacon (non-smoked), good homemade chicken stock, some diced onion, and half-and-half. Do I need carrots and celery? Do I need a fresh herb other than parsley (which I already have)?

So far, I've cut the corn off the cob and steeped the cobs in some water mixed with stock (my stock is reduced 75% or so, so this means it was basically steeping in regular-strength stock). I've diced the bacon and rendered it out. And I've diced the onion and potato.

Will I need some flour in this, and if so when do I add it (is a veloute method better, or is it best to add beurre manie)? Is there anything else I can do to boost the sweet corn flavor--should I add a little sugar? I don't want to overwhelm with the creamy flavor which is why I showed unusual restraint in buying half-and-half this time around.

Coaching welcome. Quickly, I'm heading to the store in a little while and want to serve this for dinner tonight.

[Malawry]

Oh, and is corn chowder with cornbread overkill, or just right? (Should I make biscuits instead? I have buttermilk...)

[monavano]

bump

OK, I'm making corn chowder for dinner. Help me make this an outstanding version, please. So far I have some diced Yukons for the farmer's market, four ears of sweetcorn, homemade bacon (non-smoked), good homemade chicken stock, some diced onion, and half-and-half. Do I need carrots and celery? Do I need a fresh herb other than parsley (which I already have)?

So far, I've cut the corn off the cob and steeped the cobs in some water mixed with stock (my stock is reduced 75% or so, so this means it was basically steeping in regular-strength stock). I've diced the bacon and rendered it out. And I've diced the onion and potato.

Will I need some flour in this, and if so when do I add it (is a veloute method better, or is it best to add beurre manie)? Is there anything else I can do to boost the sweet corn flavor--should I add a little sugar? I don't want to overwhelm with the creamy flavor which is why I showed unusual restraint in buying half-and-half this time around.

Coaching welcome. Quickly, I'm heading to the store in a little while and want to serve this for dinner tonight.

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My favortie chowder! This is one soup that I crave in the heat of summer. I use Ina Garten's recipe for cheddar corn chowder and tweek it a little. I think the cheese boosts the savory aspect of the soup and compliments the corn. I use thyme (dried) also to compliment the flavors as well.

Here's mine. Enjoy!

[Malawry]

I like your technique for cutting the corn off the cob with the inverted little bowl set in a larger bowl, Monavano. Does it really work? Looks cool.

Why would Ina tell us to blanch the corn before using? That's unexpected. What's the benefit of that?

[monavano]

I like your technique for cutting the corn off the cob with the inverted little bowl set in a larger bowl, Monavano. Does it really work? Looks cool.

Why would Ina tell us to blanch the corn before using? That's unexpected. What's the benefit of that?

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I think the corn was a Michael Chiarello trick. I'v seen a suggestion of using a bundt pan too. It works really well. Sometimes I just use my large wood cutting board at even then some kernals fly away.

You know..I figure the corn cooks in the soup so I've never blanched it (really too lazy the first time I made it). I like it good and crunchy. BTW...have you pick up any of the Mirai corn at the farmers market this summer? It it fantastic and perfect for this soup because it's not overly sweet.

Edited September 3, 2007 by monavano (log)