PIZZA CLUB 2006

[MarketStEl]

I'm up for either Saturday or Sunday.  Also, see if anyone is interested in adding Tony's Place at 6300 Frankford Ave.  And just because it's a half block from the Grey Lodge has nothing to do with this request. 

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What can you tell us about their pizza?

I'm more than willing to entertain interesting off-list suggestions, but the number of places we visit depends on the size of the party--the fewer of us there are, the less pizza we can handle.

[gbredben]

Classic northeast tomato pie. Wafer-thin crust with cheese and topped with an excellent tomato sauce.

[JanMcBaker]

Hi-- I'm in for pizza. I should be OK for either day if it has to be changed. I can also take 3 people along. If anyone wants to take SEPTA, the R8 ends right behind Joseph's pizza.

[Rich Pawlak]

Damn! Cant make it this weekend; have a flurry of graduation parties in my family to attend! And I'll bet NONE of them will have any pizza!

[MarketStEl]

Damn!  Cant make it this weekend; have a flurry of graduation parties in my family to attend!  And I'll bet NONE of them will have any pizza!

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Sorry to hear that.

The date's the 25th, BTW, not the 24th as I erroneously posted upthread.

I think I count five people in all?

[I_call_the_duck]

Grr...count me out. My dance card's full this weekend.

[gbredben]

I'm in!

[aaronwcpa]

My intentions are still to make one of the pizza excursions. Unforfunately not this Sunday, we have an engagement dinner for the son of a friend of ours.

Hopefully next time in somewhat cooler weather.

Enjoy the pizza.

[MarketStEl]

I count five people: Jan, Mummer, skinik, gbredben and myself.

I am now calling to reserve two crusts at Tacconelli's for tomorrow.

We will meet at 3:30 p.m. at Joseph's in Fox Chase. From there to one of the Santini Brothers places, thence to Gaeta's if everybody thinks we can handle four, otherwise, thence to Tacconelli's.

Or (you may toss your brickbats when ready) maybe we should save Tacconelli's for when more people can make it? After all, why leave so many people out of the tour's high point?

Edited to add: Naaaah. Everybody else wants to revisit Tacconelli's, we can always come back again. Three crusts have been reserved for tomorrow at 6. I figure we'd make it there by then.

Edited June 24, 2006 by MarketStEl (log)

[gbredben]

Just wanted to say thanks to Sandy for organizing a great trip. My first experience with Tacconelli's was awesome and I'm certain to make many more visits there. That crust is phenomenal. Can't wait for the next trip.

[mrbigjas]

do tell more! with pics!

[Pontormo]

While we waited for our pie, we tried to figure out what Mediterranean or Adriatic coastal town the mural was supposed to depict:

None of us knew, nor did any of the staff.  Do any of you?

Edited to add a shot of the LaRosa pie fresh from the oven.

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Positano is quite possible as a source of inspiration, though this painting may not represent any specific place in a literal sense.

Now do I get to choose which pizza you'll send me as my prize?

ETA: The tree on the far left indicates the artist's debt to Cezanne's views of Mt. Sainte-Victoire.

Edited June 26, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[JanMcBaker]

Hear, hear! Thanks Sandy for putting this pizza trip together! Now we just have to find which Santucci's was the better one! And this was my first time at Tacconelli's too. Definitely worth the wait, and I definitely want to go back again! It was nice seeing Sandy and Gary again, and nice meeting Nicki (sp?) and her doggies.

[MarketStEl]

Okay, now that I've managed to upload the photos:

Best of Philly Review Tour, Part II: The Northeast, Great and Not So Great

Our first stop on this leg of the tour was Joseph's in Fox Chase.

This survivor of the onetime DiLullo mini-empire (I don't know if Moonstruck next door is still in the family) is still churning out good, solid pizza.

As the sign on the door states that Joseph's has been in business since 1898, it could be expected that the restaurant would have an old-timey decor. What we hadn't expected is that our area would more closely resemble a 19th-century bordello:

While our section of the restaurant was fairly quiet, the softball pizza party in the back of the restaurant livened up the place.

The pies themselves were above average. We ordered a standard margherita pizza and their Wild Mushroom special, but were disappointed to find out that the wild mushroom pizza, a combo of shiitake, oyster and white mushrooms, was no longer on the menu. So we settled for a "Perfect Trio" (sausage, peppers and onions) instead.

Our margherita pizza had plenty of cheese, good quality tomatoes, and fresh basil. The crust was the thick kind, chewy but not doughy.

The toppings on the Perfect Trio, we thought, lived up to its name. The treatment of the sausage was unusual: instead of chunks of Italian sausage scattered over the pie, it had a base of ground sausage spread evenly across the entire surface, then topped with the peppers and onions. Together, the toppings provided the dominant flavor to this pie, which we didn't mind at all.

Their red sauce was good, with just a little sweetness. The crust was well browned with just a smidgen of char near the edge:

Nikki (sknik) came up with a rating system to supplement my original three categories (Still Worthy, No Longer Worthy, Didn't Deserve the Honor to Begin With): How far would you travel for this pie? This is a little more finely-graded system, with gradations running from "down the block" all the way up to "50 miles," broken down into expected subdivisions (1-, 2-, 5-, 10-, 25- and 50-mile pies). We did have to note that DiFara's in Brooklyn would by dint of our having gone there to eat have to rate as a "90-mile pie."

While these pies are quite good, and IMO Still Worthy, none of us thought they were worth a special trip to sample--1-mile pies, using Nikki's scale.

From there, we went to the nearest outlet of Santucci Brothers Square Pizza, in the Pennypack Shopping Center on Pennypack Circle.

This place didn't look too promising on its face--a completely bland, undecorated, tile-floored space that just screamed "Franchise operation!"

The menu assured us, though, that this place was "Owned and Operated by the Santucci Brothers."

When we got into eating the two pies we ordered, though, we wondered whether we had the right Santucci Square Pizza.

We ordered a red and a white pie here from their extensive menu: the red pie with spinach and ricotta, the white with crabmeat.

Make that "krabmeat." The bright red color of the "crab" tipped us off immediately that this was imitation crab, which didn't quite stand up to the cheese and garlic.

Did I say garlic? Sorry, my mistake. The menu said that the white pies were made with it, but until we sprinkled garlic powder on our slices, we couldn't detect its taste.

The tomato sauce on the spinach-and-ricotta pie also lacked something--a hint of sweetness. "This sauce wants basil badly," I said after my first bite, and my three companions all agreed.

At least the crust avoided the common curse of square-pie crusts, as it too was not overly thick or doughy as so many square-pie crusts are.

The crusts were nicely browned, but showed no signs of char:

Even though our waitress was extremely friendly and efficient, we found this place a letdown--a No Longer Worthy one-block pizza, in our judgement. Given the likely splits in the Santucci operation over the years, however, we are willing to entertain the possibility that one place bearing the family name may still turn out a great square pie. This one wasn't it.

From that nadir, it took us about a half hour to reach our zenith:

We got there at the stroke of 6--perfect timing. Our table had been set up to accommodate five diners, just as I had requested. Sorry you couldn't join us, Charlie.

Tacconelli's was as busy as Santucci's on the Boulevard was empty (there was only one other diner during our entire visit there). During our leisurely visit, we got to talking about "destination restaurants"--a subject raised in another discussion on this board--and decided that even though (as a poster on the other discussion said) "it's only pizza," this place qualifies. While I'm sure that Tacconelli's is patronized by its Port Richmond neighbors, I don't think too many of the people around us Sunday evening were from the neighborhood.

The decor at Tacconelli's recalls a basement family room, which I found appealing. Even more appealing were the pies themselves. We ordered one of our three crusts white, with spinach:

The second was the standard margherita "control pie":

and the third (which it looks like I failed either to upload or to photograph) was split between sausage and prosciutto.

The crusts all had excellent char:

and the outer part of the crust on the margherita pie was the crispest thin crust I've ever eaten--cracker-crisp, in fact.

The margherita pie was perfectly balanced, with plenty of fresh basil to complement the tomatoes. The white pie was not as garlicky as some of us might have wished it were, but it had a noticeable garlic taste. A couple of us found the prosciutto pie a bit too salty; I found it just fine--but then again, I've been known to order anchovies on pizza every now and then.

As the menu warned us it would, it took almost an hour for our pies to emerge from the oven, but it was worth every minute we waited for them. We did wonder, though, why the newest Zagat accolade hanging from the wall (a 2006 honor) referred to this restaurant in the plural. I didn't think that the Tacconelli's in Cherry Hill, even though it's run by relatives, had any other connection to the original.

Papa Tacconelli still runs this show--we caught a glimpse of him at the oven, and he did emerge from the kitchen for a minute to walk into the other dining room. For the sake of pizza lovers throughout Philadelphia, I sure hope he finds someone he can train in his way of making pizza to ensure that this place survives him.

This was most definitely Still Worthy. Nikki rated it a 25-mile pie; I'll double that to 50.

[KatieLoeb]

Mmmm. Sorry I missed Tac's with you all but I was otherwise occupied.

Tacconelli's definitely qualifies as at least a 25 mile pie and is most certainly Still Worthy.

[Dorine]

[in place of Celebre's, we finished with water ice at Rita's, one block down at Jackson Street, partly in response to a request from a reader of my foodblog.

Jason went with the lemon, which was flecked with bits of peel.

Oh, yessss! Rita'sa has the wrld's best lemon water ice! (Wwe need a drooling smily!)

[Dorine]

What wonderful pizza excursions! I hope there will be another one soon.

[MarketStEl]

It's now the middle of July, which means it's time to plan another tour stop.

I'd like to throw out a couple of options for your consideration.

One would be a second South Philly foray, built around four-time winner Celebre's. There's a regional winner (Wolf Street Pizza, 1992) not far away, and another winner (Russo's, 1991, for their Sicilian pie) even closer. (There are at least three other South Philly places on the list, including one more within spitting distance of Celebre's and two in the Italian Market area, Bitar's ["Best Weird Pizza," 1979] being one of the two.)

The other would be a Center City and environs segment. Choices for this installment include NYPD Pizza (Wash West, 2005 Philadelphia City winner), Pietro's (Rittenhouse Square, 2000 city winner), JJ's Grotto (1990, for their eggplant pie), Mama Palma's (Fitler Square, 1999, for their combinations), Montesini Pizza (Liberty Place food court, 1992 and 1993, both times city winner), Pete's Famous Pizza (Logan Circle, 1981) and Towne Pizza (Rittenhouse Square--one of the earliest winners, in 1976 and 1977). In the surrounding area, there's Savas' in Spring Garden (1991, "Best Bizarre Pizza" for their octopus-topped pie, and 1994, Best Classic Pizza). And there are two places not commonly associated with pizza that would probably require special dispensation for a Pizza Club evaluation: Patou in Old City ("Best Upscale Pizza," 2004) and London Grill in Fairmount ("Best Pizza from a Restaurant," 1998). Finally, the owners of Media's Apollo Pizza (best in Delaware County, 1992 and 1993) have an in-town outpost at 7th and Chestnut, which has recently been rechristened.

We obviously have to return to South Philly again, and we haven't even begun to tackle the 'burbs yet, but I'd go for an in-town swing this time, with Mama Palma's and NYPD (another place with excellent thin-crust pizza) as the must-visits, plus perhaps one or two others. What say you all?

[Dorine]

It's now the middle of July, which means it's time to plan another tour stop.

I'd like to throw out a couple of options for your consideration.

One would be a second South Philly foray, built around four-time winner Celebre's.  There's a regional winner (Wolf Street Pizza, 1992) not far away, and another winner (Russo's, 1991, for their Sicilian pie) even closer. (There are at least three other South Philly places on the list, including one more within spitting distance of Celebre's and two in the Italian Market area, Bitar's ["Best Weird Pizza," 1979] being one of the two.)

The other would be a Center City and environs segment.  Choices for this installment include NYPD Pizza (Wash West, 2005 Philadelphia City winner), Pietro's (Rittenhouse Square, 2000 city winner), JJ's Grotto (1990, for their eggplant pie), Mama Palma's (Fitler Square, 1999, for their combinations), Montesini Pizza (Liberty Place food court, 1992 and 1993, both times city winner), Pete's Famous Pizza (Logan Circle, 1981) and Towne Pizza (Rittenhouse Square--one of the earliest winners, in 1976 and 1977).  In the surrounding area, there's Savas' in Spring Garden (1991, "Best Bizarre Pizza" for their octopus-topped pie, and 1994, Best Classic Pizza).  And there are two places not commonly associated with pizza that would probably require special dispensation for a Pizza Club evaluation:  Patou in Old City ("Best Upscale Pizza," 2004) and London Grill in Fairmount ("Best Pizza from a Restaurant," 1998).  Finally, the owners of Media's Apollo Pizza (best in Delaware County, 1992 and 1993) have an in-town outpost at 7th and Chestnut, which has recently been rechristened.

We obviously have to return to South Philly again, and we haven't even begun to tackle the 'burbs yet, but I'd go for an in-town swing this time, with Mama Palma's and NYPD (another place with excellent thin-crust pizza) as the must-visits, plus perhaps one or two others.  What say you all?

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I love the S Philly idea!

About Towne: In the days it won the prize, it had for several years been a favorite of my late DH, our circle of friends and me. By the early 1980s, it seemed to have deteriorated. We all stopped going there or ordering delivery from there. Butyou never know--in another 25 years it may have found its froove again. Pietro's is definitely upscale--not really to be compared with the neighborhood places, IMO.

Anyway, I'm game to join in! :-)~~~~

[SteveR]

I'd like South Philly and would PREFER a weeknight evening as EVERY weekend is full (well, for me at least). And, since I live on north end of South Philly, that's another bonus for me.

Just comment on Center City. Going from NYPD on 11th to Mama Palma's up in the 20s, is a bit of a trek and you can forget about parking.

Steve R

[mrbigjas]

a few notes, for your planning convenience:

The other would be a Center City and environs segment.  Choices for this installment include NYPD Pizza (Wash West, 2005 Philadelphia City winner), Pietro's (Rittenhouse Square, 2000 city winner), JJ's Grotto (1990, for their eggplant pie),

jj's grotto doesn't exist anymore. it's now medusa, a dive bar that i'm pretty sure doesn't serve pizza.

and London Grill in Fairmount ("Best Pizza from a Restaurant," 1998). 

i don't think london has pizza on their menu anymore, although i could be wrong--although if you're going up there, you could do a hell of a lot worse than rembrandt's. they may not have ever made a best of list, though.

Edited July 13, 2006 by mrbigjas (log)

[MarketStEl]

i don't think london has pizza on their menu anymore, although i could be wrong--although if you're going up there, you could do a hell of a lot worse than rembrandt's.  they may not have ever made a best of list, though.

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Thanks for the tips in general.

I'm supposed to go to Rembrandt's tonight to meet up with a friend and former Penn colleague who is one of a few friends who also enjoys jazz; pianist Sid Simmons is playing there tonight. I'll keep that in mind, and if I decide to order one, I'll report back to this board.

So far, the vote tally is South Philly 2, Center City 0--though it also sounds like the Center City stop on the tour should also be split in two, West and East. Keep in mind that except for the Didn't Deserve the Honor to Begin With places (e.g., Pizza Hut, the winner in the all-'burbs 1982 BoP, or Pizzeria Uno, the winner in that same year's sidebar "for diehard city lovers"), our aim is to visit all of the past winners, even the ones that have gone downhill, as it appears Towne Pizza and Apollo in Media may have. (See the Northeast report for an example from this category.)

The polls are still open through the weekend. After that, we will settle on a date. Weekday evenings are okay too.

Edited to add: IMO, Pietro's is not so much more upscale that it cannot be compared to the more prosaic places. Patou in Old City, OTOH, is. I've eaten at both.

Edited July 13, 2006 by MarketStEl (log)

[Dorine]

i don't think london has pizza on their menu anymore, although i could be wrong--although if you're going up there, you could do a hell of a lot worse than rembrandt's.  they may not have ever made a best of list, though.

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Thanks for the tips in general.

I'm supposed to go to Rembrandt's tonight to meet up with a friend and former Penn colleague who is one of a few friends who also enjoys jazz; pianist Sid Simmons is playing there tonight. I'll keep that in mind, and if I decide to order one, I'll report back to this board.

So far, the vote tally is South Philly 2, Center City 0--though it also sounds like the Center City stop on the tour should also be split in two, West and East. Keep in mind that except for the Didn't Deserve the Honor to Begin With places (e.g., Pizza Hut, the winner in the all-'burbs 1982 BoP, or Pizzeria Uno, the winner in that same year's sidebar "for diehard city lovers"), our aim is to visit all of the past winners, even the ones that have gone downhill, as it appears Towne Pizza and Apollo in Media may have. (See the Northeast report for an example from this category.)

The polls are still open through the weekend. After that, we will settle on a date. Weekday evenings are okay too.

Edited to add: IMO, Pietro's is not so much more upscale that it cannot be compared to the more prosaic places. Patou in Old City, OTOH, is. I've eaten at both.

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I can't bring myself to even taste anything at Uno. I ate there once, in the 1980s, and got violent food poisoning. The memory is too horrible for words.

[Rich Pawlak]

i don't think london has pizza on their menu anymore, although i could be wrong--although if you're going up there, you could do a hell of a lot worse than rembrandt's.  they may not have ever made a best of list, though.

←

Thanks for the tips in general.

I'm supposed to go to Rembrandt's tonight to meet up with a friend and former Penn colleague who is one of a few friends who also enjoys jazz; pianist Sid Simmons is playing there tonight. I'll keep that in mind, and if I decide to order one, I'll report back to this board.

So far, the vote tally is South Philly 2, Center City 0--though it also sounds like the Center City stop on the tour should also be split in two, West and East. Keep in mind that except for the Didn't Deserve the Honor to Begin With places (e.g., Pizza Hut, the winner in the all-'burbs 1982 BoP, or Pizzeria Uno, the winner in that same year's sidebar "for diehard city lovers"), our aim is to visit all of the past winners, even the ones that have gone downhill, as it appears Towne Pizza and Apollo in Media may have. (See the Northeast report for an example from this category.)

The polls are still open through the weekend. After that, we will settle on a date. Weekday evenings are okay too.

Edited to add: IMO, Pietro's is not so much more upscale that it cannot be compared to the more prosaic places. Patou in Old City, OTOH, is. I've eaten at both.

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In previous Pizza Clubs we have split CC into East and West; ist the only way to do it. I'm all for more South Philly stops. That is the real pizza treasure trove of the city, IMHO.

[I_call_the_duck]

Put my vote for South Philly joints. Weeknights are better for me too.

Is Towne the one on 19th and Pine?