A pictorial guide to Chinese cooking ingredients

[liuzhou]

If you are a lamb lover like me, choose better than me where you live. Lamb is popular in the north, particularly Inner Mongolia, and in the west of the country; much less so in the South and east where people often consider it to have an off-putting, rank smell.

 

It is usually known as 羊肉 (yáng ròu) but that term also includes mutton and goat. To be more sure of getting lamb and not some elderly sheep, you can try using 羊羔 (yáng gāo) or 小羊 (xiǎo yáng). If you see 山羊肉 (shān yáng ròu, literally mountain sheep meat), you've found goat - fine meat in my opinion.

 

Then you have the butchery problem. You're not going to find neatly trimmed lamb chops or beautifully frenched racks of lamb.

 

Chinese butchery is a less precise art. Here are images of what is available here in winter (lamb disappears here in the south in summer).

 

Lamb is often used in Mongolian style hotpot and the feet, heads and assorted bones are sold for making stocks.

 

 

 

Paper thin, fatty lamb rolls, 羊肉卷 (yáng ròu juǎn) are sold to be dropped into the hotpot where they cook in seconds. In many supermarkets, this is the only lamb on offer.

 

 

Elsewhere you may find 羊排 (yáng pái) which is listed in some dictionaries as 'lamb chops' but usually comes as a row (排) of undressed lamb ribs. Any additional butchery you're going to have to do yourself. 

 

 

Meaty legs of lamb are available in winter. The whole legs come with skin and bone. The supermarket butchery section will chop it for you on request.

 

 

Only recently I've been able to source boneless, skinless leg meat and very good it is, too.

 

 

Despite the usual disdain for the meat, lamb skewers are popular in every evening food street and pre-assembled sticks are available laced with cubes of meat interspersed with tail fat for home grilling.

 

 

I've never been able to find my favourite cut, breast of lamb here in China 😡

 

Goat comes in the same cuts.

 

I should note that lamb is expensive here. Around double or more the price of pork. Goat is even more.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

元宵快乐！

 

Today, February 24th, 2024 is the Lantern Festival marking the end of the Spring Festival, the 16 day celebration which started on Chinese New Year's Eve.

 

To celebrate, I bring you two lantern themed ingredients.

 

First up we have S: 黄灯笼辣椒; T: 黃燈籠辣椒 (huáng dēng lóng là jiāo), yellow lantern chillies. These are grown in China's southern, island province of Hainan and are viciously hot.

 

 

They are more often found processed into this (very) hot sauce, S: 黄灯笼辣椒酱; T: 黃燈籠辣椒醬 (huáng dēng lóng là jiāo jiàng).

 

 

If they don't rock your boat, perhaps a fruit salad incorporating some S: 灯笼果; T: 燈籠果 (dēng lóng guǒ, literally 'lantern fruit') may be more appropriate.

 

 

These are cape gooseberries aka poha, goldenberries or Peruvian ground cherries among other names. Physalis peruviana. 

 

 

Happy Lantern Festival!

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

The first ingredient to be featured in this topic, back in 2006, was Chinese cooking wine. Specifically, it was for something described as Shaoxing wine.

 

Unfortunately, it was not Shaoxing wine at all but a Taiwanese knock-off. The name Shaoxing is protected in China - only wines made in the city  of Shaoxing  S: 绍兴; T: 紹興 (shào xīng) in Zhejiang province can legally be called Shaoxing wine -  S: 绍兴酒; T: 紹興 酒 (shào xīng jiǔ).

 

Anyway, Shaoxing wine has been discussed here before.

 

 

Shaoxing is not the only cooking wine in China, albeit probably universally considered the best. So, now I'd like to look at some of the others.

 

Cooking wine in China is known as 料酒 (liào jiǔ, literally 'ingredient alcohol).  The most common is S: 黄酒; T: 黃酒 (huáng jiǔ) or 'yellow wine'. This is made from rice.

 

Ingredient wine.

 

(Shaoxing is both a yellow wine and an ingredient wine.)

 

Non-Shaoxing wines are cheaper and generally of lower quality but are more widely available. Every supermarket and corner shop has a 500 ml bottle for less than a dollar USD.

 

This 2 litre bottle is available for $3 USD. A basic lowest level Shaoxing will be around $3 minimum for 500ml.

 

 

Many of these yellow wines come flavoured.

 

L-R: Onion and ginger flavour, Banquet flavour, 5-spice flavour, aged natural flavour. No, I've no idea what banquet flavour means. The aged stuff has probably been aged for at least ten minutes.

 

Beware of 白酒 (bái jiǔ, literally white alcohol). This is NOT 'white wine' but a hard liquor made from sorghum or maize (the name c@rn uses in a pathetic attempt to disguise itself). It is very strongly flavoured and smells like vomit. It is used in a very few dishes but cannot be considered a general cooking ingredient.

 

米酒 (mǐ jiǔ) is a weak, colourless rice wine, often home made, usually drunk but occasionally used in cooking. It is made from glutinous rice.

 

The only non-Shaoxing Chinese wine I possess is this 桂花酒 (guì huā jiǔ), osmanthus wine, which was a gift and which I'll probably drink.

 

 

It's rather too floral for cooking anything I want to eat but would probably work in some desserts. I don't do desserts.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

The weather has turned cold in southern China with temperatures running between lows of 2C and highs of 6C. In the north, that's normal but not here. So, everyone in China is donning their winter garb in multiple layers and breaking out multiple ingredients for dinner.

 

It is hotpot time. I mentioned before S: 火锅底; T: 火鍋底 (huǒ guō dǐ), hotpot bases, but now that we've got our pots bubbling away, what are we going to cook in them?

 

The answer is "pretty much anything I want". There are no rules; but some precautions.

 

First we want ingredients that cook quickly. This involves not only making sensible choices but an element of preparation, mainly cutting.

 

The table is set with your burner and pot and surrounded by plates of ready to cook ingredients. 

 

 

Meats: beef, lamb or pork, are sliced paper thin and often presented in rolls, ready to drop into the broth a few at a time.

 

 

 

Offal is cleaned, sliced and arranged on a plate. Beef tripe (牛肚 - niú dǔ) is particularly popular and duck's intestines (鸭肠 - yā cháng) never go amiss.

 

Beef tripe

 

Duck's Intestines

 

Brains (S: 脑子; T: 腦子 - nǎo zi) are a nice addition, usually porcine.

 

 

Chicken or duck feet are not to be forgotten.

 

 

Beef meatballs 牛肉丸 (niú ròu wán) are bought or prepared in advance as are fish and shrimp balls.

 

 

Seafood is prepared by slicing fish off the bones, cleaning squid or baby cuttlefish, scrubbing clams, debearding mussels etc.

 

Baby squid

 

Green Lipped Mussels

 

Clams

 

Shrimp are deveined and, perhaps, peeled; shell and head on is usually prefered.

 

Root vegetables: potato, sweet potato, daikon radish (S: 白萝卜; T: 白蘿蔔 - bái luó bo) and lotus root (S: 莲藕; T: 蓮藕 - lián ǒu) are peeled and sliced. 

 

Daikon Radish

 

Lotus Root

 

Mushrooms and fungi cleaned. Oyster mushrooms (平菇 - píng gū),

 

 

king oysters (eryngii) (S: 杏鲍菇; T: 杏鮑菇 - xìng bào gū),

 

 

 

enoki (S: 金针菇; T: 金針菇 - jīn zhēn gū),

 

 

shiitake (香菇 - xiāng gū),

 

 

shimeji (真姬菇 zhēn jī gū or 玉皇菇 yù huáng gū),

 

 

wood ear (木耳 - mù ěr) are carefully washed and where necessary sliced or halved.

 

 

Tofu is drained and cubed or sliced.

 

 

Green vegetables of choice are washed and leaves separated as appropriate.

 

Garland Chrysanthemum

 

Noodles are ready.

 

The ingredients are then cooked one by one in small amounts - never overcrowding the base stocks. It is normal to eat the ingredients roughly in the order listed above.

 

The meats and seafood enriches the stock then the mushrooms add umami. Then we finish off with the vegetables and noodles.

 

Throughout this meal, and it can last a long time, the broth has been evaporating. A kettle or pan of hot water is kept to hand for topping it up.

 

These ingredients are used in all the many  varieties of hotpot from Mongolian to Cantonese via Sichuan. What really separates them are the bases.

 

Whether eaten at home or in one of the many hotpot restaurants, eating this way is always fun.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

I had this in mind while putting together the previous post, but decided it merits a more In-depth post of its own.

 

It's not an ingredient you can buy ready to use; rather it's one you have to prepare yourself. 

 

I'm talking frozen tofu (冻豆腐 - dòng dòu fu). No. It's not like ice cream. It isn't eaten frozen.

 

This is regular firm tofu  which said been frozen then thawed. As the tofu freezes, ice crystals form inside. These melt and the liquid drains away as the tofu defrosts, leaving air pockets which, when you cook with it, fill up sponge-like with any liquids in your dish, taking on their flavour.

 

The freezing then thawing process transforms it, making it denser and chewy as well as making it spongy. The colour  also changes, becoming darker and yellowish. The appearance and texture is similar to tht of seitan (processed wheat gluten), but has the advantage of being gluten-free.

 

 

Care should be taken if using it in hotpots as  the liquid in the tofu will be boiling hot. Let it cool a little before biting into it. 

 

Besides being used in hotpots, frozen and defrosted tofu can be used in any sauced dish where it will soak up and take on flavours.

 

It can also be stir-fried, which makes it meaty and crispy.

 

To prepare frozen tofu simply put it in the freezer for 24 hours. You can do this in the original packaging or repack it to suit yourself. It can be kept frozen for up to three months.

 

The Works of Life website suggests steaming the tofu for twenty minutes  before freezing, but they do a lot of strange things. Totally unnecessary.

 

Defrost it before use. You can do this on the kitchen counter or in the refrigerator as usual. I don't recommend using a microwave. Some sites say it's OK but I've had mixed results. 

 

Do not re-freeze after thawing.
 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[Alex]

3 hours ago, liuzhou said:

Besides being used in hotpots, frozen and defrosted tofu can be used in any sauced dish where it will soak up and take on flavours.

 

Indeed. I used to crumble or finely chop it (I can't remember which) and use it instead of meat in red sauce for pasta.

[liuzhou]

4 minutes ago, Alex said:

 

Indeed. I used to crumble or finely chop it (I can't remember which) and use it instead of meat in red sauce for pasta.

 

You must have cut it. It doesn't crumble after being frozen.

 

 

[liuzhou]

Not surprisingly I suspect, it behoves me to deal with Oryza sativa. After all, it originated here and remains the staple food for millions, not only in China but worldwide. Over 50% of the world's population rely on it.

 

 

Two main sub-species are grown and eaten daily across much, but not all of China. These two are O. sativa subsp. indica, and O. sativa subsp. japonica. Basically, these are respectively long and short grain rices, although there are exceptions. The former is the most common.

 

 

The importance of rice is captured in the phrase S: 铁饭碗; T: 鐵飯碗 (tiě fàn wǎn), literally 'iron rice bowl' but meaning 'secure employment for life' as promised under Mao's regime. 

 

At this stage, I want to emphasise that rice is not a staple everywhere in China. Northern China's staple is wheat, most often consumed in the form of wheaten noodles and pasta-like dumplings or as buns/breads.

 

Rice is the staple of the south where it mostly grows. Also, most noodles in the south  are rice noodles.

 

Of course, both rice and wheat products are available all over but, in terms of staples, there is a clear north-south divide.

 

Uncooked, husked rice as sold in supermarkets, grocery stores and markets  is known in Chinese as 大米 (dà mǐ). Cooked rice in a restaurant or at home is S: 米饭; T: 米飯 (mǐ fàn, literally 'rice food').

 

Most of the ethnic minorities of southern China favour glutinous rice 糯米 (nuò mǐ), O. sativa subsp. glutinosa or a glutinous strain of O. sativa japonica. This is the sticky rice also found in South-East Asia. It comes in regular form and as black rice (黑糯米 - hēi nuò mǐ), sometimes called 'forbidden rice' as it was once reserved or the Emperor's court.

 

五色糯米饭 (wǔ sè nuò mǐ fàn) – 5-colour glutinous rice - is a favourite at festivals. Some of the rice is coloured using vegetable dyes; some are natural. 

 

 

Red rice 红米 (hóng mǐ) is an indica type with a nutty flavour. Do not confuse this with red yeast rice, which is regular rice infected with Monascus Purpureus yeast. This yeast rice is used to make red rice vinegar.

 

红米7

 

Brown rice 糙米 (cāo mǐ) is available but rarely used at the dinner table. It tends to be used more for porridge (粥 - zhōu), often mixed with other grains.

 

Most white rice is sold unbranded in supermarkets and comes in these bins at various prices and quality levels.

 

 

It is also sold in 5 or 10 kg packs like this. 

 

 

I can only suggest you buy the best you can afford and experiment until you find what you like. I find it tends to be a very personal choice.

 

I currently have three types of white long grain rice. A mid price type I use for congee.  A local rice called cat's tooth rice due to the length of its grains.

 

Cat's Tooth Rice

 

And finally a Cambodian Jasmine rice for dinner. 

 

 

One website, supposedly run by a Chinese native, recommends basmati rice for fried rice, blissfully unaware that basmati is virtually unobtainable in China. A tiny amount is imported from Pakistan but never appears here.

 

Like my neighbours, I cook my rice in a S:电饭煲; T. 電飯煲 (diàn fàn bāo) electric rice cooker, although I do congee in my slow cooker for convenience.

 

I hope no one is feeling S; 茶饭不思; T: 茶飯不思 (chá fàn bù sī) an idiom literally meaning 'no thought for tea or rice' but in fact referring to being melancholic and suffering lack of appetite.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[Alex]

I seem to remember reading that "Have you eaten rice yet?" or simply "Have you eaten?" is a standard greeting in parts of east Asia, including southern China. Is that still true?

[liuzhou]

On 2/26/2024 at 10:14 PM, Alex said:

I seem to remember reading that "Have you eaten rice yet?" or simply "Have you eaten?" is a standard greeting in parts of east Asia, including southern China. Is that still true?

 

Yes. My neighbour said it to me this  morning. Very common. 吃饭了吗? (chī fàn le ma?) The translation is simply "Have you eaten?"

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[KennethT]

6 hours ago, liuzhou said:

 

Yes. My neighbour said it to me this  morning. Very common. 吃饭了吗? (chī fàn le ma?) The translation is simply "Have you eaten?"

 

 

What's the response to this?  "I'm doing fine" or "yes/no, I've eaten"?  I understand it's not taken literally, but I was curious if the response was not literal as well.

[liuzhou]

On 2/27/2024 at 6:32 AM, KennethT said:

What's the response to this?  "I'm doing fine" or "yes/no, I've eaten"?  I understand it's not taken literally, but I was curious if the response was not literal as well.

 

Yes, you're not expected to recite the menu of the last 24 hours any more than asking "how are you?" in the west requires you to detail your symptoms of imminent demise. A simple "吃了 (chī le)" meaning "eaten" suffices (whether you have or not).

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Someone, somewhere, some time ago asked me about fish sauce usage in China. 

 

For years, the only fish sauce I could buy was Thai (น้ำปลา - nam pla) or,  occasionally Vietnamese (nước chắm). I even found a Chinese made Korean type (액젓 - aekjeot). But no Chinese sauce.

 

I had heard rumours of S: 鱼露; T:魚露 (yú lù, literally 'fish dew', a fish sauce found in Chiu Chau, Ch'ao Chou, Chaozhou, Teochiu, or Teochow cuisine depending on your spelling preference.

 

This is the cuisine found around 潮州 (cháo zhōu) Chaozhou, a city in Guangdong province with its own distinct cuisine.

 

This elusive sauce is difficult to find even in China, never mind overseas, but never one to give up, I finally tracked down one supplier in town.

 

Image from online shopping listing. 

 

Of course, they are out of stock!

 

They have promised to call me when they restock. If.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Time for something actually available. This is S: 东北酸菜; 东北 T: 東北酸菜 (dōng běi suān cài). Dongbei (literally east-north) refers to the provinces of Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning.  Historically, this was known as Manchuria, a name now avoided as it reminds people of Japan's brutal occupation of China from 1931 to 1945.

 

酸菜 (酸菜) is pickled vegetables, particularly Chinese cabbage, as here. It is often translated as 'sauerkraut' which it closely resembles. Ingredients listed are cabbage, water, salt and preservatives. (sodium dehydroacetate and potassium sorbate).

 

 

The sauerkraut is used in a number of dishes including the following, translated by my cell phone app, as I'm too lazy and these translations more 'interesting' than mine!

 

 

It can also be eaten straight from the pack. I add it to congee.

 

Expect to pay around $1 for 500 grams here in China.

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

China has literally hundreds of commercially produced hot sauces in addition to those made in-house in restaurants or at home.

 

 

One of the best known is S: 桂林辣椒酱; T: 桂林辣椒醬 (guì lín là jiāo jiàng) Guilin Chilli Sauce. Its popularity, I suspect, is more to do with Guilin being one of China's top tourist destinations than to do with any inherent superiority in the product.

 

 

It's an OK hot sauce but there are better. See the hot sauce topic here for hot sauces around the world, including China.

 

Beware: Guilin's popularity has lead to a number of copycat products such as this.

 

 

Note that it says 桂林风味辣椒酱. That extra 风味 (fēng wèi) dropped casually into the name means 'distinctive flavour or distinctive style', and is only included for legal reasons. The sauce is made in Zhongshan, a city in Guangdong province, far from Guilin. Despite being a knock off, it is more expensive than the real thing.

 

Caveat emptor, as Chairman Mao said.

 

I'm told Guilin 'style' sauce is available in the US from Amazon. The real stuff may be available in Asian markets. 

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

I reckon there are olives in my DNA. I love 'em. The first food my granddaughter expressed a pre-vocal liking for was olives. Why, oh why did I move to China, a veritable olive desert? I can buy cheap, dyed low quality Spanish olives, that the Spanish don't want, in jars or cans but I have standards!

 

So, I was delighted to learn early on that China grows olives, mainly in Fujian province. A delight that was soon shattered.

 

Chinese olives ain't olives! Not even vaguely related and certainly not even close to tasting like olives.

Chinese olives, S: 橄榄; T: 橄欖 (Mandarin: gǎn lǎn; Cantonese: gaam3 laam2) are Canarium album, whereas European olives  are Olea europaea and ne'er the two shall meet.

 

Chinese 'olives'

 

Chinese olives are usually pickled in vinegar or salted and eaten as a snack food. They are also often candied. Occasionally, they are added to hotpots or soups. Bitter, astringent and to my tastes, unpleasant.

 

Salted Chinese 'olives'

 

What I don't mind however is S: 橄榄菜; T: 橄欖菜 (gǎn lǎn cǎi), olive vegetable. This is processed from the offending objects and made into a paste sold in jars labeled 'olive vegetable'.

 

 

It makes an umami rich addition to stir fries. I sometimes add a little to fried rice or congee.

 

'Olive vegetable'

 

It is particularly popular and associated with Chaozhou* cuisine, a sub-branch of Cantonese cuisine with a strong Fujian influence. Popular in Hong Kong, too.

 

Stir fried pork with olive vegetable

 

* aka Chiu Chau, Ch'ao Chou, Teochiu, or Teochow. 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

According to one local store these are the ten most common spices used in Chinese cooking. I disagree with one. 

 

They are top row, left to right: 桂皮 (guì pí), cassia bark; S: 香叶; T: 香葉 (xiāng yè), bay leaf; 草果 (cǎo guǒ), black cardamom; 八角 (bā jiǎo), star anise; 辣椒 (là jiāo), chilli.

 

Bottom row: 孜然 (zī rán), cumin; S: 陈皮; T:陳皮 (chén pí), tangerine peel; 胡椒 (hú jiāo), pepper; 花椒 (huā jiāo), Sichuan peppercorn; 茴香 (huí xiāng), fennel seed.

 

Where I disagree with them is that they show black pepper. White pepper is much more common.

 

 

[liuzhou]

榨菜 (zhà cài, literally 'pressed vegetable'), hot pickled mustard tubers is a staple of Sichuan cuisine.

 

The best is considered to be from 涪陵 (fú líng), Fuling suburbs of Chongqing municipality which was until 1997 part of Sichuan. Sold in jars but also in these single serving packets it is added to congee, used in stir fries and added to soup. Or just eaten straight from the container with steamed bread or buns.

 

 

The mustard is crunchy while remaining tender and has an aroma most people find appealing. Being Sichuanese it is also spicy, but not overly so.

 

Unsliced zhacai

 

According to a 2019 article in China Daily, over 60,000 local farmover in Fuling are involved in raising stem mustard. 

 

"In 2017, 1.6 million tons of stem mustard were produced, which yielded over 9 billion yuan ($1.3 billion) in pickle products."

 

Zhacai is produced in other parts of Sichuan but is thought to be inferior.

 

Non-Fuling Zhacai

 

Fuling zhacai (涪陵榨菜 -  fú líng zhà cài） is exported to over 50 countries. Look out for its distinctive packaging at Asian markets.

 

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

I'm not a user myself, but tomato ketchup / catsup is a popular in China, too. Not really surprising given its history; it probably originated here, albeit in a very different form.

 

In Chinese, it is either 番茄沙司 (fān qié shā sī) or S: 番茄酱; T: 番茄醬 (fān qié jiàng). Both names use 番茄 (fān qié) to mean tomato but the literally meaning is 'barbarian egg plant' due to them being American in origin.

 

Dictionary.com expresses its mystification as to why eggplant. Simple really. Tomatoes and eggplants are part of the same botanical family Solanum.

 

A common alternative name for tomatoes is S: 西红柿; T: 西紅柿 (xī hóng shì), literally  'western red persimmon'. Despite the visual similarity, persimmons and tomatoes are unrelated. Dictionary.com doesn't query that. Amateurs. 

 

Heinz ketchup is widely available

 

 

but, of course, there are numerous local brands, too.

 

 

 

 

Also McCormick have their take on offer.

 

 

Besides being used as a dip for fries in American and American style fast food places, tomato ketchup is often used as a cooking ingredient in sauces and even hotpots.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

The one Chinese ingredient I would miss most and which has truly been life-changing is one I use l most every day - garlic.

 

I'm not talking regular garlic 大蒜 (dà suàn), although China has plenty of that - it is the world's largest exporter.

 

 

99.99% of the time I use S: 独蒜; T: 獨蒜 (dú suàn), which is single-headed garlic. This cultivar does not split into separate cloves, but usually remains in one segment. (I have occasionally met twins.) This saves on a lot of chopping and mincing.

 

But best of all is that the skin falls off easily, if you so much as give it a dirty look. One bulb is equal to about two to three cloves of the regular stuff.

 

 

This garlic is often associated with Sichuan, but actually originated in Yunnan. It is not so common in northern China. Many of my Chinese friends have 'corrected' me when I mention it, thinking I have mispronounced dà suàn as dú suàn. I then have to correct them!

 

I'm told it is sometimes available in London's Chinatown and the much missed Anna N could find it in Ontario. Beyond that, I don't know.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Here are some mysteries.

 

S: 黄花鱼; T: 黃花魚 (huáng huā yú5), yellow croaker is a popular fish round here, but it's not what I want to talk about now.

 

Large yellow croaker

 

Instead I want to talk about S: 黄花鱼子; T: 黃花魚子 (huáng huā yú zǐ), yellow croaker roe.

 

Yellow croaker roe

 

There are a number of roes easily available here, but this is the most common.  Extracted from the large yellow croaker, Larimichthys crocea or Pseudosciaena crocea, this is sold raw in vacuum packed bags, usually frozen.

 

Search the interwebs for information on this and all you get is TCM nonsense about croaker roe oil being wonderful for lipids and antioxidants. I want wonderful for dinner.

 

I have had it as a sort of roe omelette where the roe was mixed with egg and fried. I've eaten it simply stir fried with the fish itself. I've also had them poached in hotpots. 

 

Occasionally, I see seabass roe, but never ventured there. No particular reason. I always seem to see it when I already have other plans. 

 

Sea bass roe

 

But what prompted this was seeing these.

 

They are described simply as S: 多春鱼; T:多春魚 (duō chūn yú) which literally means 'many spring fish', spring as in the season.

 

 

Means nothing to me and I can find nothing on the term. Friends are equally baffled. I've only ever seen these images from the vendor and it's difficult to judge the size - are they capelin or mackerel sized? 

 

 

Whatever, they look like something I'd like to eat. It is said that the roe accounts for 80% of the total weight. If I can find out the species, I'll get back on this one.

 

Of course, we get lumpfish, flying fish and crab roe, too. Often dyed into colours its mother wouldn't recognise.

 

Flying fish roe

 

Black crab roe

 

Avocados with red crab roe.

 

I can also get real caviar easily at a price (of course). China is now the world's leading caviar producer.

 

 

Now we're talking.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[Anchobrie]

21 hours ago, liuzhou said:

The one Chinese ingredient I would miss most and which has truly been life-changing is one I use l most every day - garlic.

 

I'm not talking regular garlic 大蒜 (dà suàn), although China has plenty of that - it is the world's largest exporter.

 

 

99.99% of the time I use S: 独蒜; T: 獨蒜 (dú suàn), which is single-headed garlic. This cultivar does not split into separate cloves, but usually remains in one segment. (I have occasionally met twins.) This saves on a lot of chopping and mincing.

 

But best of all is that the skin falls off easily, if you so much as give it a dirty look. One bulb is equal to about two to three cloves of the regular stuff.

 

 

This garlic is often associated with Sichuan, but actually originated in Yunnan. It is not so common in northern China. Many of my Chinese friends have 'corrected' me when I mention it, thinking I have mispronounced dà suàn as dú suàn. I then have to correct them!

 

I'm told it is sometimes available in London's Chinatown and the much missed Anna N could find it in Ontario. Beyond that, I don't know.

 

 

Pretty easy to find around Oslo supermarkets  at my time there over a decade ago. Otherwise. I have look for it in other countries to no avail. It is really nice, I have wondered for a long time why it is not so much readily available

 

[liuzhou]

Herbs 草本 (cǎo běn) or 香草 (xiāng cǎo) are my bugbear in China. Not that they don't have any; they have thousands. The problem is remarkably few are used in dinner. 95% are only used in TCM, including some we eat.

 

So, I'm going to attempt to go through what is available for culinary use while mentioning a few that aren't. I'll do that in at least two parts, probably more.

 

I'll start with some herbs that are common in the west, give their Chinese names and indicate their availability or lack of.

 

Then, I'll get on to herbs only generally found in China or Asia.

 

This, I'm sure, will always remain a work in progress. Recently , I've found herbs that were unheard of a year ago. The picture is constantly changing. This is why I've included unavailable herbs. The fact that they have Chinese names gives me hope that they'll turn up one day.

 

So, in roughly alphabetical order:

 

Arugula

see rocket, below

 

Basil

 

S: 罗勒; T: 羅勒 (luó lè),  (Ocimum basilicum).  Sweet basil.

 

 

I can source sweet basil online but have never seen it in any market or store. However, the seeds are sold to be raised as an insect repelling house plant, so I grow my own.

 

Bay leaf

 

S: 香叶; T: 香葉 (xiāng yè), (Laurus nobilis)

 

 

Very common. Dried leaves are used in braises, stews and hotpots. Available everywhere. Alternative name 月桂 (yuè guì).

 

Chamomile

 

洋甘菊 (yáng gān jú), (Matricaria recutita). Unavailable.

 

Chives

 

韭菜 (jiǔ cài), (Allium tuberosum)

 

 

Extremely common. They are added to almost everything.

 

Note: these are garlic chives, not regular chives (Allium schoenoprasum) as used in European cooking.

 

韭菜花 ((jiǔ cài huā) are the above but with the flowers attached.

 

 

韭黄 (jiǔ huáng), are the stems  of the same plant, but grown under reduced light conditions so that they do not develop the green colour, but are yellow, the meaning of 黄. 

 

 

To my palate and nose, this technique also increases the garlic flavour and scent considerably. This is a good thing in my book.

 

Cilantro

see next

 

Coriander

 

香菜 (xiāng cài), (Laur Coriandrum sativum)

 

 

Call it coriander or cilantro, this is by far the most common culinary herb. Essential in almost all stir fries etc. It is even, in some places, deep fried as a street food snack. The Chinese name translates literally as 'taste (or fragrant) vegetable'. 

 

Coriander seeds are never used in Chinese dishes and are only available from farmers' seed suppliers by the sack load.

 

Dill

 

S: 莳萝; T: 蒔蘿 (shí luó), (Anethum graveolens）Unavailable.

 

Fennel

 

茴香 (huí xiāng), (Foeniculum vulgare)

 

 

Fennel herb is used in northern China, but I've never seen it here in the south.

Lemongrass

 

S: 柠檬草; T: 檸檬草 (níng méng cǎo), (Cymbopogon citratus). Also 香茅 (xiāng máo), (Cymbopogon flexuosus)

 

 

I am including this here as, although it is Asian in origin, it is now widely available everywhere - but not so much here. It is available for immediate delivery but I've never seen it in any store here. A recent arrival. I grow my own.

 

Lovage

 

S: 欧当归; T: 歐當歸 (ōu dāng guī), (Levisticum officinale)

 

The 欧 in the name means European. The 当归 refers to Chinese angelica which I will include with the Chinese herbs. Unavailable.

 

Oregano

 

牛至 (niú zhì), (Origanum vulgare)

 

The Chinese name is also sometimes used for the related:

 

Marjoram

 

S: 墨角兰; T: 墨角 (mò jiǎo lán), (Origanum majorana)

 

The two are related. Unavailable anyway.

 

Mint

薄荷 (bò he), (Mentha x piperata)

 

 

Chinese does not differentiate between the different mints. I have given the Latin name of peppermint, the most common here.

 

This is available locally, but not everywhere in China. It's use is mainly restricted to the southern ethnic minorities. I.e. round here.

 

Parsley

 

西芹 (xī qín), S: 荷兰芹; T: 荷蘭芹 (hé lán qín) or 洋香菜 (yáng xiāng cài), (Petroselinum crispum)

 

Despite the plethora of alternative names and although this is grown here, it is difficult to find. I suspect it mostly goes to the restaurant trade to be served with 'western food'.

 

Strangely the first two names translate as 'western celery' and 'Dutch celery' respectively. Parsley and celery are not related!

 

Rocket

 

芝麻菜 (zhī ma cài), (Eruca sativa)

 

 

Rocket or arugula is available from immediate delivery vendors, but not in stores. Not well known. The name translates as 'sesame vegetable'. Again, there is no family connection.

 

Rosemary

 

迷迭香 (mí dié xiāng), (Rosmarinus officinalis)

 

 

A recent arrival. I blame Simon and Garfunkel. Delivery service only.

 

Sage

 

鼠尾草 (shǔ wěi cǎo), (Salvia officinalis)

 

See rosemary above. Unavailable.

 

Savory

 

香薄荷 (xiāng bò he), (Satureja  hortensis)

 

Unavailable.

 

Sorrel

 

酸模 (suān mó), (vulgare runes acetosa)

 

Unavailable.

 

Tarragon

 

S; 龙蒿; T: 龍蒿 (lóng hāo), (Artemesia  Dracunculoides Purch)

 

Unavailable

 

Thyme

 

麝香草 (shè xiāng cǎo) or 百里香 (bǎi lǐ xiāng), (Thymus vulgaris)

 

 

It completes the song, but is rarely available. Very occasionally turns up in supermarkets or for delivery. Another one I grow.

 

Next: China specific and other Asian herbs available in China.

 

 

Edited March 27 by liuzhou (log)

[KennethT]

6 hours ago, liuzhou said:

Herbs 草本 (cǎo běn) or 香草 (xiāng cǎo) are my bugbear in China. Not that they don't have any; they have thousands. The problem is remarkably few are used in dinner. 95% are only used in TCM, including some we eat.

 

So, I'm going to attempt to go through what is available for culinary use while mentioning a few that aren't. I'll do that in at least two parts, probably more.

 

I'll start with some herbs that are common in the west, give their Chinese names and indicate their availability or lack of.

 

Then, I'll get on to herbs only generally found in China or Asia.

 

This, I'm sure, will always remain a work in progress. Recently , I've found herbs that were unheard of a year ago. The picture is constantly changing. This is why I've included unavailable herbs. The fact that they have Chinese names gives me hope that they'll turn up one day.

 

So, in roughly alphabetical order:

 

Arugula

see rocket, below

 

Basil

 

S: 罗勒; T: 羅勒 (luó lè),  (Ocimum basilicum).  Sweet basil.

 

 

I can source sweet basil online but have never seen it in any market or store. However, the seeds are sold to be raised as an insect repelling house plant, so I grow my own.

 

Bay leaf

 

S: 香叶; T: 香葉 (xiāng yè), (Laurus nobilis)

 

 

Very common. Dried leaves are used in braises, stews and hotpots. Available everywhere. Alternative name 月桂 (yuè guì).

 

Chamomile

 

洋甘菊 (yáng gān jú), (Matricaria recutita). Unavailable.

 

Chives

 

韭菜 (jiǔ cài), (Allium tuberosum)

 

 

Extremely common. They are added to almost everything.

 

Note: these are garlic chives, not regular chives (Allium schoenoprasum) as used in European cooking.

 

韭菜花 ((jiǔ cài huā) are the above but with the flowers attached.

 

 

韭黄 (jiǔ huáng), are the stems  of the same plant, but grown under reduced light conditions so that they do not develop the green colour, but are yellow, the meaning of 黄. 

 

 

To my palate and nose, this technique also increases the garlic flavour and scent considerably. This is a good thing in my book.

 

Cilantro

see next

 

Coriander

 

香菜 (xiāng cài), (Laur Coriandrum sativum)

 

 

Call it coriander or cilantro, this is by far the most common culinary herb. Essential in almost all stir fries etc. It is even, in some places, deep fried as a street food snack. The Chinese name translates literally as 'taste (or fragrant) vegetable'. 

 

Coriander seeds are never used in Chinese dishes and are only available from farmers' seed suppliers by the sack load.

 

Dill

 

S: 莳萝; T: 蒔蘿 (shí luó), (Anethum graveolens）Unavailable.

 

Fennel

 

茴香 (huí xiāng), (Foeniculum vulgare)

 

 

Fennel herb is used in northern China, but I've never seen it here in the south.

Lemongrass

 

S: 柠檬草; T: 檸檬草 (níng méng cǎo), (Cymbopogon citratus).

 

 

I am including this here as, although it is Asian in origin, it is now widely available everywhere - but not so much here. It is available for immediate delivery but I've never seen it in any store here. A recent arrival. I grow my own.

 

Lovage

 

S: 欧当归; T: 歐當歸 (ōu dāng guī), 
(Levisticum officinale)

 

The 欧 in the name means European. The 当归 refers to Chinese angelica which I will include with the Chinese herbs. Unavailable.

 

Oregano

 

牛至 (niú zhì), (Origanum vulgare)

 

The Chinese name is also sometimes used for the related:

 

Marjoram

 

S: 墨角兰; T: 墨角蘭 (mò jiǎo lán), (Origanum majorana)

 

The two are related. Unavailable anyway.

 

Mint

薄荷 (bò he), (Mentha x piperata)

 

 

Chinese does not differentiate between the different mints. I have given the Latin name of peppermint, the most common here.

 

This is available locally, but not everywhere in China. It's use is mainly restricted to the southern ethnic minorities. I.e. round here.

 

Parsley

 

西芹 (xī qín), S: 荷兰芹; T: 荷蘭芹 (hé lán qín) or 洋香菜 (yáng xiāng cài), (Petroselinum crispum)

 

Despite the plethora of alternative names and although this is grown here, it is difficult to find. I suspect it mostly goes to the restaurant trade to be served with 'western food'.

 

Strangely the first two names translate as 'western celery' and 'Dutch celery' respectively. Parsley and celery are not related!

 

Rocket

 

芝麻菜 (zhī ma cài), (Eruca sativa)

 

 

Rocket or arugula is available from immediate delivery vendors, but not in stores. Not well known. The name translates as 'sesame vegetable'. Again, there is no family connection.

 

Rosemary

 

迷迭香 (mí dié xiāng), (Rosmarinus officinalis)

 

 

A recent arrival. I blame Simon and Garfunkel. Delivery service only.

 

Sage

 

鼠尾草 (shǔ wěi cǎo), (Salvia officinalis)

 

See rosemary above. Unavailable.

 

Savory

 

香薄荷 (xiāng bò he), (Satureja  hortensis)

 

Unavailable.

 

Sorrel

 

酸模 (suān mó), (vulgare runes acetosa)

 

Unavailable.

 

Tarragon

 

S; 龙蒿; T: 龍蒿 (lóng hāo), (Artemesia  Dracunculoides Purch)

 

Unavailable

 

Thyme

 

麝香草 (shè xiāng cǎo) or 百里香 (bǎi lǐ xiāng), (Thymus vulgaris)

 

 

It completes the song, but is rarely available. Very occasionally turns up in supermarkets or for delivery. Another one I grow.

 

Next: China specific and other Asian herbs available in China.

 

 

Are fresh bay leaves used at all or just dried?

[liuzhou]

10 minutes ago, KennethT said:

Are fresh bay leaves used at all or just dried?

 

I've only ever seen them, or mention of them, dried here. My 40 year old  bay 'tree' is unfortunately thousands of miles away in my daughter's gazebo in London.

 

 

Edited March 1 by liuzhou (log)