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I remember throwing out a sturdy ricer from my mother's kitchen some time ago, thinking it would rarely be used. It is something I now regret, especially after eating mashed potatoes mixed with fennel or buttermilk. It wasn't until fairly recently that gingerbread started to appear in bakeries and supermarkets.

Focaccia, kiwi, chocolate mousse, bubble tea... When something exotic first gains recognition, sometimes it endures. At other times, its disappearance makes us seem fickle.

Do you have an opinion about certain foods or dishes that go in and out of fashion in the United States, or the roles that restaurants and the media play in creating or observing trends?

"Viciousness in the kitchen.

The potatoes hiss." --Sylvia Plath

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