eG Foodblog: johnnyd - Dining Downeast

[johnnyd]

I was on the air today. My interview with a take-out hijiki bombed...

Hey, I'm here all week! And remember folks, tip your waitresses, they work hard... for you!

Edited August 31, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Headed down to Hobson's wharf to meet my old friend Craig Tanner and Bernie Sutherland. Craig operates a Mussel Aquaculture Business in Casco Bay. The plan was to have Bernie motor over to the closest pier at Falmouth and take me out to their Clapboard island site but the weather was deteriorating and they decided to harvest early. By the time I was ready they were motoring in with their haul.

Craig had two rafts the day he talked me into going out in the rain and help harvest mussels. Hardest $100 I've ever made. Now he has five rafts and can justify buying these industrial-size insulated containers.

Who should be cleaning Ocean Perch but my old pal George.

He's been in the biz a long time. I sold him my first sea urchin harvest in 1991. He's handling all of the fish for a couple high-end restaurants in town.

This is a class operation. It has to be.

[johnnyd]

It was great to see the old crew again. Naturally a gift of shellfish is de riguer.

We all said goodbye and planned to meet for some beers on Friday. An ex-urchin diver is coming back from his job in indonesia and said he would be there. Something about underwater consulting. We had a laugh over that one!

Craig sets off into the foggy harbor.

So I have four pounds of mussels sitting in my fridge...

...hmmm.... what to do. what to do...

Edited August 30, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[AzianBrewer]

Last night it was time to make chowder.  The lobster/rockweed stock looks malevolent but after a couple of days the flavor is dead-on. 

I rendered some slab bacon and sauteed two medium onion, heart of a fennel bulb and a bit of local garlic.  When it turns glassy, some new potatos are added and they cook until glassy as well.

The crisp bacon will be used as a garnish.

While that's going on, it's time for an appetizer!

Yeah, baby!    Ceviche in a shell!

I prefer lime on littlenecks (these are a little smaller, called "countnecks").  It really matches the salt/sweet raw clam perfectly.  We also tried a little meyer lemon which was pretty good too.

←

John, what is that 2 cups?? Are those the reduce of the lobster/rock weed stock???

[johnnyd]

John, what is that 2 cups?? Are those the reduce of the lobster/rock weed stock???

Indeed it is, sir. I coarsely chopped the lobster bodies, added water and the steaming liquid which was dark and flavorful owing to the rockweed I had set into the pot as a steaming "bed". I then simmered the whole lot for about an hour, not long enough for a reduction really, but the tomalley and other good body parts disintegrated into the stock. Each one is a quart.

The color is unappealing to some, but that is not an issue with me. The resulting flavour is more important. Give me a meal I can taste, damnit!

Edited August 30, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[Daniel]

Wow.. What great use of all that comes your way.. I am loving watching this chowder be made.. It looks and sounds ridiculous... You got a pot of love, going on right there brother.. Any recipe that starts with eating lobster for the shells sounds good to me.. Awesome..

Edited August 30, 2005 by Daniel (log)

[little ms foodie]

We just love seafood here in Seattle, your cooking is making me sooooo happy. Damn how I love mussels! What is your favorite way to serve them? We adore moules mariniere.

[johnnyd]

Well... I'm thinking Mussels Parisiennes. Pernod, tarragon, white wine and basil. One of my faves.

I have to save some for a special dish I'm making later in the blog, though.

I can't believe I said "no thanks" when Craig asked me if I wanted more. I guess I got scared because last time I got 14 pounds! I cooked them off all night because I didn't have a big enough pot for them all. Made a bucketful of tapa marinade for the little buggers, basically EVOO, pimento, shallot, capers maybe... no garlic. Something else in there but I don't remember. It lasted a long time.

[johnnyd]

You got a pot of love, going on right there brother.

Amen! I hear ya loud and clear! Come up and have some, you driving fool! I probably have at least a gallon right now.

Edited August 30, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[Carrot Top]

Why am I thinking that mussels are something that might be pickled to good result?

Has anyone ever done this?

I would imagine that with some sweet and savory tones added to the pickling liquid, such as carrot, onion, (cumin?) (cilantro?) lemon and orange zest, there's a good chance it would be excellent.

[Carrot Top]

http://www.parsonspickles.co.uk/pickled.html

Now why do I feel like singing a nursery rhyme?

[bleudauvergne]

Seeing all that's going on here, at this moment I am convinced that this pot of chowder is the mother of all soups. I am truly inspired. Half of it's the way you're teasing us, Johnnyd.

[bleudauvergne]

Chowder Questions:

Last night it was time to make chowder.  The lobster/rockweed stock looks malevolent but after a couple of days the flavor is dead-on. 

You make the stock a couple of days in advance, and from what I understand, you are using the whole lobsters, head and all. Have they been steamed in advance or are you chopping them up raw for the stock? This is then put through a moulin to eliminate what's left of the shells and inedible remainders? Do you crush it through a chinois? Is this stock then seasoned before the several day resting time? I suspect the seaweed acts as a thickener of sorts. Do you refrigerate the stock without touching it for the few days or do you simmer it for a little while each day? What remainder of the weed is left after this process? Does it completely desintigrate? I want to ask my oyster man to bring me some seaweed from Brittany (he drives in from the coast for the weekend St. Antoine Market) but I need more info on the type of seaweed. Can you take a close up pic?

I rendered some slab bacon and sauteed two medium onion, heart of a fennel bulb and a bit of local garlic.  When it turns glassy, some new potatos are added and they cook until glassy as well.

The fennel - a perfect compliment to seafood, is this something you always do or something you are doing because you had some? Also, how smoky is your slab bacon?

What proportion of milk do you add? 30% something like that?

I notice your attention to the final texture and chunkyness of the soup. Any more insights on things you've done in the past to add to that experience?

Sorry for all the questions.

[johnnyd]

As most have noted, I am not one to stick to a recipe too closely. I apologize for the lack of documentation, prefering instead to portray the process as it happens through real-time photographs.

The first time I made chowder, I followed a Joy of Cooking recipe and it came out fine. The next time I made it, I had the book handy as a reminder for amounts and timing. The next dozen times I made it, there was some missing ingredients so I took a hint from my mom when I was growing up, the queen of creative substitution.

After a while here in Maine, the search for better chowder became a minor, but passionate hobby of mine. The discovery of the rockweed steaming bed alerted me to some interesting possibilities.

Edited September 1, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

The lobster stock was made with the debris from Friday night's dinner on page one of the blog. I read of dishes made with lobster base using whole lobster, but during the summer molting season, lobster meat is very sweet and traditionally served with quick-cooked fresh corn on the cob, steamed soft-shelled clams, and maybe a potatoe done somehow, such as baked, as a cold salad, or fried. It is frequently called on local menus as a Downeast Dinner.

[johnnyd]

I don't put the stewing stock through a chinois because it seems more trouble than necessary for my purpose. I also don't have one at the cottage. When I started using the rockweed stewing liquid, it's strength provided plenty of flavour so there was little need to go to such lengths. I ended up taking the shells and cooked seaweed out to the beach and dumping it for the seagulls.

After cooling on the stove, it is placed in the fridge. It's got a little scum on top which I keep. I suppose if the recipe objective demands further reduction, a little simmering daily is appropriate. My chowder isn't that fancy. It's not supposed to be.

The rockweed (I will post a picture later) does not disintegrate. It does turn bright green instead of it's original brown color.

Edited August 31, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Fennel was an experiment a few years ago because I had some. It is now a primary ingredient in my chowders. The trick is in how much you use. Too much and it overwhelms the soup.

The bacon is extraordinarily smoky. I don't know where that market gets it but it is great stuff. The rendered fat flavor is absorbed by the onion, fennel and potato.

My most recent dilemma is when to add thyme leaves. This had added a terrific accent but I'm still looking for the best moment to introduce it. So far, it's a toss-up between when the fish goes in and the stock starts bubbling.

The percentage of milk (and heavy cream) depends on the density of the stock. This one was a strong one so I went about 35-40%. If my stock was lighter, I would reduce the stock for as long as I had time, then add 20-30% milk/cream.

The chowder that night was a bit thin. With time, the potatos break down, thickening the liquid. That is the beginning of it's peak consistency. I freeze it here if I have enough (and, boy I do!) or call everyone up to come over for a couple bowls with a baguette.

There are many who whip up a roux and thicken the chowder that way. I think that's cheating, but there are many who prefer there chowder nice and thick, even gloppy. So be it, but I think it detracts from the elements working together.

I had a bowl last night which was stupendous. Unfortunately, there is no picture as we are in the process of moving out of there and cleaning up. I will miss it out here.

Edited September 1, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[bleudauvergne]

I'm the same way with recettes, I always hover around a theme.

What you have given is enough to give me an idea of how to do this.

Thanks!

[johnnyd]

The cottage is all cleaned up and we are back home. Before we left Cape Elizabeth we visited our neighborhood farmer for a few supplies.

It's a casual affair here at Alewive's.

They have a vegetable array (only tomato and potato here, my camera was dying)...

...and a very detailed lobster pound. These guys run a couple boats out of the cove next to where we had the cottage for August. It's "detailed" because they have lobsters of incremental sizes in their particular crate in the indoor "pound".

We got some crisp carrots, lettuce, awesome radishes, and a few ears of corn picked today.

Edited September 1, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Our townhouse in South Portland was built in 1900 and was renovated so that the living/dining/kitchen area is upstairs.

Those in the know might notice several years of Saveur in the bookcase, next to the packed bags of NYT Dining sections. I haven't had time to arrange my favorite recipes from them and I couldn't possibly throw them away.

Mrs. johnnyd started calling this "kitchen stadium, the Maine edition" after a couple of, shall we say, "enthusiastic" cooking events here.

Note the copper item on the wall next to the price board from my old Oyster Bar (a long story). Tell me what it is and you'll know what I'm making tomorrow night.

We live next to the Fore River, opposite the City of Portland. The living area is upstairs because there are huge oil tanks across the street with earthen berms blocking the view, so the downstairs has no view of the town. A smart move by our neighbor/landlord/renovator... and eGullet member. KarenL is a designer of kitchens.

Edited September 1, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Time to cook up some of these fabulous, fresh mussels. Mussels Parisiennes has to be one of the best ways to cook these little beasts.

Start with a good butter,

Clean, debeard mussels. Chop onion or shallot, prep some tarragon and basil chiffonade style,

Get a tablespoon of butter bubbling and add onion. When glassy, pour a cup of white wine in (no more), and when that bubbles, add a couple capfuls of pernod. Then your mussels.

Before you put the cover on, scatter herbs over the mussels. Keep an eye on things while you open a new bottle of wine. I made a salad with the fresh vegatables I bought from the Alewive's market.

On a whim, I boiled one of the fresh-picked corn for four minutes and rolled it in butter and a crank or two of pepper. This turned out to be the killer match...

This dish was simply spectacular. But it was augmented by a simple ear of very fresh sweet corn, rolled in a little butter. The salty, herbed, licorice mussel portion was perfectly matched by the sweetness of an ear of corn-on-the-cob.

I don't have a pic of my corn. It was an afterthought. Little did I know how it would transform this meal of mussels, freshly picked off a rope on an aquaculture raft in Casco Bay.

Edited September 1, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[chromedome]

<sigh> This Nova Scotian's been living inland for 2 1/2 years. Last time I did that (early 1980's) I made two trips to the East Coast and one to the West during that time. No such luck this go-round...I can't fit all I own in a duffle bag anymore, and hitchhiking with the wife & kids is O-U-T out!

Your pix have been wonderful medicine for the homesickness. Maine looks almost as nice (cough, cough) as New Scotland.

[ludja]

Yum... the mussels and corn sound (and look) like a wonderful meal. I made a similar mussel dish recently minus the Pernod--I must try them this way. Anise and seafood is good!

Thank you very much for so gracefullly sharing this week with us. The food and beautiful pix are making me homesick for New England.

I also loved the shots from your 'camp'. The white wooden boards in the kitchen and porch almost make me smell and hear the Atlantic and feel the ocean mist on my cheeks.

[Marya]

Since that's a cataplana, I'm hoping that clams with linguica, etc. will be making an appearance.

[Abra]

I see that Marya beat me to identifying the cataplana, and here I made myself a caipirinha as a prize for good guessing. So, now this one's for you, johnnyd

Those mussels look killer, and similar to some I make with Pastis, fennel, and saffron. Corn is an inspired accompaniment - I'll have to try that. What a delicious blog you're cooking up!