North African food in America

[chefzadi]

The Mexican food in France thread got me thinking about the lack of North African restaurants in States.

I've been reading/hearing about this next big trend in America for about 6-7 years. When I have time I'll dredge up some 'reports' on it.

I'd like some feedback from the members here. What are your 'theories'?

Lack of North African immigrants? Lack of demand? Lack of knowledge?

[melkor]

I think it all comes down to there being a critical mass of people from any one country to support the restaurants cooking quality authentic food long enough for the locals to discover it. There are a handful of North African restaurants in SF, but the one really good one closed after the woman cooking moved back to Africa. Mexican food is far more prevalent in the southwestern part of America than it is in Canada – larger immigrant population and it doesn’t hurt any that there is easier access to ingredients.

[zeitoun]

Not a theory but a few observations:

In cities such as New York, Detroit or LA and SF, which have sizable Arab communities, the lack of immigrants is obviously not the primary culprit. In New York alone, the population of North Africans and other Middle Easterners is growing rapidly (the Arab community is one of the fastest growing in America) and many recent immigrants have opened food related businesses. Most of these businesses though still cater to their own local NA or ME communities and are located in remote places such as Astoria in Queens or Bay Ridge in Brooklyn. They still haven't opened up geographicaly.

There are on the other hand quite a few North African restaurants in busier Manhattan quarters, but I consider them more "themed restaurants" than North African dining spots. A trendier and more exotic/ethnic version of Hard Rock Cafe if you will that is all about the scene (decor, music, belly dancers) than the quality of the food. There is in my opinion an urgent need to change this misleading image of North African food culture..

[chefzadi]

I don't think it's a lack of immigrants either in this case. This seems to be a case where supply does not meet demand.

Boxed, instant couscous is available in almost all the Supermarkets in LA with the exception of Asian and Hispanic stores. Bulk couscous is a staple of health food stores, at least around here. The recreational cooking classes I teach on North African cooking are always sold out with a wait list. Clearly there is interest. Most have heard about it, tried some version of it (maybe those awful instant varieties prepared according to package instructions or couscous salads *yuck*)

The little neighborhood places serve good, sometimes fantastic couscous and it is a slice of our way of life, but as I've said before they are not representative of the huge range of our cuisine. As for the 'themed restaurants", Omar your description is perfect. They are theatrics, not about food or culture.

[chefzadi]

I think it all comes down to there being a critical mass of people from any one country to support the restaurants cooking quality authentic food long enough for the locals to discover it. There are a handful of North African restaurants in SF, but the one really good one closed after the woman cooking moved back to Africa. Mexican food is far more prevalent in the southwestern part of America than it is in Canada – larger immigrant population and it doesn’t hurt any that there is easier access to ingredients.

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Overall I agree with you.

North African seems to be an anomoly, though.

[melkor]

I don't think it's a lack of immigrants either in this case. This seems to be a case where supply does not meet demand.

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So what is your theory?

[chefzadi]

I don't think it's a lack of immigrants either in this case. This seems to be a case where supply does not meet demand.

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So what is your theory?

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Don't know if I have a theory, just some observations and thoughts. Certainly it's not like there is a flood of North African immigrants to America, but there are communities in the bigger cities. In Los Angeles, the NA community is composed of 2nd generation French North Africans like me, Pied Noirs and children of Pied Noirs, as well as immigrants straight out of North Africa. They are opening restaurants, but not necessarily North African ones. Don't know specifically why more aren't tapping into the market. It seems more are opening French or Mediterranean restaurants that cater to Americans. Then there are the North African places that try to add percieved sophistication and exoticism by putting a French accent on it. On a certain level I find it offensive like Le Colonial Vietnamese, it seems to be capitalizing on a Eurocentric fantasy of a glamorous colonial life. On another level, I am afterall French too and am part of the French community and the two cultures have mingled and there is in fact a natural by product that can be called North African French.

Anyway, back to my point about the layers of North African immigrants to the States, it's not a cohesive group in certain ways, they are not all coming from the same place and the level of education varies. Many are here for professional jobs, so it's not like they are looking for a business opportunity in a new restaurant.

So the demand is there, created by books, products, cooking segments, North Africans/Arabs, tourists to North Africa, a French community, etc... but not enough entrepreneurial spirit or money on the part of NA immigrants.

I'm not very clear on all the reasons why. I have to think about this more.

[Fat Guy]

Just to be clear, North African and Arab are not synonymous. The largest group of Arab-Americans -- about 1/3 overall -- comes from Lebanese ancestry. Moroccan immigrants and their descendants only make up about 3% of the Arab-American population and the whole Arab-American population is about half a percent of the whole population. When it comes to Arab-derived cuisine in the US, you are much more likely to see the street foods of Lebanon than the kinds of food you might find in Morocco. I mention all that just so we can keep the demographic picture in perspective.

Farid's point is, to me, the interesting one: since the mid- to late-1990s there have been incessant predictions that North African cuisine would be America's next big food trend. There has been, at least I think this impressionistically, a lot of investment in North African restaurant projects. I think they just haven't done very well.

[chefzadi]

There has been, at least I think this impressionistically, a lot of investment in North African restaurant projects. I think they just haven't done very well.

Those smaller, neighborhood places seem to be doing better.

The more expensive, themed restaurants aren't even really North African. Those seem to require the bigger investments. There is an upscale one in LA that's been open for about 7 years and they've expanded. That's really good for fickle LA.

In Europe they are doing much better, healthy business. There's a group of French-Algerians entrepreneurs and celebrities that are in the restaurant business, they have places in France and London.

I don't know if North African restaurants are doing better or worse than other types of restaurants in America, where the failure of restaurants is pretty high.

EDIT: Moroccan is not synomous with North African.

Edited July 13, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[phaelon56]

The small city I presently live in may not be representative of all the non-major metro areas of the US but in some respects it think it's typical. We have some other cuisines that are well represented here despite the relatively small immigrant population in this area.

For example - three Vietnamese restaurants despite a total local Viet population that is only about 2,000 people, three Indian restaurants with an Indian population that's nearly as small and 5 or 6 Thai places with equally small numbers of Thai folks.

But when it comes to less mainstream ethnic cuisines there's a tendency in some smaller cities (our city is conservative, traditional blue collar with a population of 150,000) for certain ethnic cuisines to show up as "influences" on the menu's of restaurants that may feature dishes from several ethnic cuisine types.

We have one local joint that has a menu with Spanish, Moroccan and Mediterranean "influenced" dishes and another place that features "Pan-American" influenced dishes (e.g. Central and South America with a bit of Caribbean and Mexican thrown in).

In a small and conservative market an ethnic restaurant may not draw enough groups of customers on a repeat basis to be profitable in the long term. But if one keeps a few really interesting dishes on the menu and also offers some that are either dumbed down or more pedestrian in nature (i.e. more recognizable as mainstream menu items).... it's often easier to meet the varying tastes of groups of diners. There are a fair number of adventurous eaters like me in this community but a far greater number who will venture out to more exotic places but always search for the "safe" dishes.

I'm not endorsing it but I have seen a pattern over the years in this area: independent local restaurants that can cater to a reasonably broad range of tastes yet still retain some measure of integrity and uniqueness continue to thrive despite the uptick in chain restaurants that the area has seen. But ethnic places that are true to their roots struggle if they even manage to stay open for more than a year or two.

[chefzadi]

But ethnic places that are true to their roots struggle if they even manage to stay open for more than a year or two.

I can see that in the smaller cities.

There's a North African place that's been open for about 10 years in LA. It's a little place, it caters to North Africans and Arabs.

[chefzadi]

I'd rather see the North African restaurant business in the States grow slowly, things are perking up in LA at least. There is certainly interest in home cooking, given the number of pakaged products that sell. At Sur La Table where I teach regularly they stock tagines, couscousieres, spices mixtures and harisa. And these items sell. It's an interesting case of strong awarenes on part of the home cook, at least in urban areas, and lack of REAL restaurants.

It's exciting for me to see where this will all go.

[Eden]

well it looks like that trend is hitting Seattle I think 3 different Moroccan restaurants have opened here in the last year or so, after a major dearth for the last 12+ years I've lived here. (and much whining about the lack on my part!)

Now I just need time to go visit & compare them all...

Disclosure: I must admit to ignorance of North-African cuisine beyond Moroccan, but what l do know I really like!

[therese]

I live in Atlanta, where we've got large and influential ethnic communities that generally produce great restaurants that serve both their own communities and the rest of us.

That said, there are very few North African restaurants, and those are aimed squarely at the sort of American who is not a particularly adventurous diner but it is occasionally interested in "dining strange". It's not about the food (the food's generally pretty forgettable) but about the show: sitting on cushions, elaborate handwashing and tea-pouring, belly dancers (and boy howdy do I despise eating with a belly dancer in my face). The average diner at Imperial Fez is more likely to eat his other meals at Applebee's than at a pho house or dim sum parlor or chaat stand. Though he might consider this option.

Anyway, I think it's a combination of too small a North African immigrant population as well a certain stigma attached to the restaurants already present in this market. Too bad, really, as I like this style of cooking.

[JohnL]

There was some criticism in a thread here recently, of Bobby Flay's attempt at korean food.

I believe that authentic or not so authentic in their recipes and ingredients--people like Flay and Emeril "featuring" any ethnic cuisine can go a long way toward "popularizing" it.

Cous cous--the really perfect foundation for a thirty minute meal!

also

The general topic of cuisines that are on the brink..would make for a great magazine piece. For eg--North African, korean, Indonesian, Vietnamese, etc have all seemed at one time or another to be ready to break out and for some reason (or reasons) keep "bubbling" below the surface!

[chefzadi]

Excellent points Therese and John.

There is a place with belly dancers here in LA that's been open for a long, long tme (maybe 20 years) so there is a market for that. (Not one that I am at all interested in tapping into, if I haven't made that abundantly clear already. Heh.)

I believe that authentic or not so authentic in their recipes and ingredients--people like Flay and Emeril "featuring" any ethnic cuisine can go a long way toward "popularizing" it.

Cous cous--the really perfect foundation for a thirty minute meal!

also

I agree with you and those sentiments were also expressed in the Korean thread you refer to.

Another 'break out' cuisine is Peruvian too.

[therese]

Another 'break out' cuisine is Peruvian too.

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We've actually got pretty good Peruvian in Atlanta, both mom'n'pop sorts of places where nobody speaks English and upmarket, one in particular (Sweet Devil Moon) that calls itself a tapas bar but really just serves small portions of Peruvian food. Again, a sufficiently large ethnic population to both produce and consume the food, followed by successful (albeit misnamed) crossover to a mainstream market.

Korean here has so far failed to make the mainstream crossover. Approximately one bajillion Korean restaurants (and Korean grocers and bakers and hair stylists and clothing shops and...well, you see what I mean), but none of them make any attempt to attract non-Korean customers (other than generally producing very fine food, of course).

Vietnamese has made the crossover here, with both Nam and RiceSticks offering an alternative to the gazillions of pho houses in the city.

[foodie52]

I think that major supermarkets have to start carrying key products besides couscous and harissa in order for that cuisine to take off. We have one person in town who packages Ethiopian foods to go - they are interesting but if I don't have all the ingredients to recreate this at home, I'm going to lost interest.

We carried some African sauces for a while - beautiful packaging. But apart from the label saying "Use this over chicken", the product didn't convey a whole lot.

Doesn't it all boil down to marketing? And the Food Network? Chef! Time for your own show!!!!

I'll watch.

[chefzadi]

I know you would watch my dear foodie.

Yes, there is the question of marketing and more information on just the basics of cooking North African. Depending on the dishes, most ingredients are readily available even at regular markets.

I've bought spices and chilis from Mexican and Indian vendors, sometimes those ingredients aren't necessary. A box of couscous or bulk couscous is probably pretty easy to find in most parts of America. The vegetables can be found in regular supermarkets, Italian and Middle Eastern grocers usually carry the harder to find vegetables.

So the interest is there and the ingredients are for the most part readily available. I was reading about Paula Wolfert trying to find cilantro when she was writing her Moroccan cookbook. How things have changed!

I think just a little nudging here and there is all that's needed. For my part I'm teaching some North African dishes to the next generation of American chefs.

Edited July 13, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[JohnL]

In thinking about this thread, I have realized that I do not have a good sense of what North African cuisine really is. That is the essence of it.

I "know" tagines and cous cous but can it be 'boiled" down to something easier to grasp?

For example--I believe that Thai cuisine which has "broken out" can be "summed up" at a very base and simplistic level to something like "Chinese but lighter" --that is Thai became popular because, in part, it would have an appeal to people who "liked" Chinese cuisine.--it is not that far removed so that one could see a person who was familiar with (and possibly a bit tired of) Chinese at least trying Thai cuisine.

Look at the popular Thai dishes: Dumplings, Spring Rolls, noodles, curries etc as well as some of the soups.

Any sophisticated palate would "see" that Thai food is most certainly not Chinese cuisine and vice verse but there are undeniable "similarities".

Does anyone see what I am getting at? Am I on to something?

So in the case of North African--

Can this cuisine be "reduced" to a identifier?

Say: "North African food it's like-----only-----.

[chefzadi]

Say: "North African food it's like-----only-----.

I'll get back to you on that later today. I'm asked the question in real life all the time. In the world of marketing a sound bite answer will propel awareness of the cuisine. Anyone familiar with Mediterranean cuisines will be able to instantly recognize aspects of North African, so possibly that is a good starting point.

[Milagai]

.So in the case of North African--

Can this cuisine be "reduced" to a identifier?

Say: "North African food it's like-----only-----.

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perhaps i'm the only one who thinks this way, but to me

Moroccan food has a strong resemblance to some North Indian

cooking styles, but a little tweaked.

Whenever I read a recipe for a "tagine" style dish I am struck

by the resemblance of the spice list to North Indian masala-fied

preparations.

There are some key differences of course, but just to my ignorant

eyes, nose, and mouth, there seem to be marked similarities.

But much less fire.

So, don't know if Chefzadi or others would agree but would you say

"sort of like Indian but ...

milder

or

more subtle

or.."

milagai

[Wolfert]

One of the mistaken notions people have about Moroccan cooking is that it is

highly spicy. A few fish dishes are hot, but Moroccans, for the most part, actually seem to prefer sweetened foods.

Lots of spices are used but in very restrained proportions, and the emphasis is on the sweet. For example, to intensify the sweetness of certain tagines, a Moroccan cook will add a rich mixture of spices called ras el hanout. Just as every Indian cook has her own formula for curry, so each Moroccan has her own recipe for ras el hanout, but the spices used are more sweet than hot.

[zeitoun]

I think that the main factor behind the growing success of many ethnic foods in the US such as Chinese, Indian or Thai is that it has succeeded in making itself compatible with the almost quintessential idea of what an American meal should be: affordable, quick and easy.

I am somewhat convinced that the reason why some ethnic cuisines have become popular in the US is because they found a way to prosper on the fast food/delivery scene. I agree with Farid that the interest in NA food exists, there is no question about it. So I am pretty sure that if someone came up with the idea of couscous delivery in New York for instance (Farid? ), there would be a huge following. Couscous delivery is big business today in Paris for instance, check this out.

May be not the best way of featuring the wonderful world of North African cuisine, but at least this is one way of getting rid of the belly dancers and reaching out to a wider American public.

[touaregsand]

So I am pretty sure that if someone came up with the idea of couscous delivery in New York for instance (Farid? tongue.gif )

He's saving up for a bicycle.