Cheese (2005–2008)

[gariotin]

I am in Paris for a week - first for the enormous international food show, SIAL, now for a few days of vacation. My business colleague and I have rented an apartment and our little fridge is full of all the things we can't get at home. Our own little Festival du Fromage!

We have been enjoying:

Real Selles-sur-cher and Chabichou de Poitou (oozy and runny to make you weep!)

Maroilles - always known of it as one of the AOCs, not able to be exported. Was not

too impressed. Think it was too young, gritty texture on the washed rind. Will

leave out to ripen a bit and stink up the kitchen.

Boursault - don't know why we don't see this much in the States any more, it is

pasteurized. Prob short shelf life. Creamy, salty, unctous, - yum.

Vacherin Mont d'Or - just shoot me now! I would kill to get this for Xmas dinner!

We do get a pretty good pasteurized facsimile, but not quite the same depth.

Trou de cru - little smelly washed rind gem. (Know this has a connotation to a

smelly body part as well?)

In addition, we have been eating cheeses we can get at home, but are much more

expensive:

Beaufort ete

Bethmale

Bleu de Termignon

Oh Lord, I'm sure I will have gained 10 lbs this week! What cheesy joy!

[Dave Hatfield]

I am in Paris for a week - first for the enormous international food show, SIAL, now for a few days of vacation.  My business colleague and I have rented an apartment and our little fridge is full of all the things we can't get at home.  Our own little Festival du Fromage!

We have been enjoying:

Real Selles-sur-cher and Chabichou de Poitou (oozy and runny to make you weep!)

Maroilles - always known of it as one of the AOCs, not able to be exported.  Was not

  too impressed. Think it was too young, gritty texture on the washed rind.  Will

  leave out to ripen a bit and stink up the kitchen.

Boursault - don't know why we don't see this much in the States any more, it is

  pasteurized.  Prob short shelf life.  Creamy, salty, unctous, - yum.

Vacherin Mont d'Or - just shoot me now!  I would kill to get this for Xmas dinner!

  We do get a pretty good pasteurized facsimile, but not quite the same depth.

Trou de cru - little smelly washed rind gem.  (Know this has a connotation to a

    smelly body part as well?)

In addition, we have been eating cheeses we can get at home, but are much more

expensive:

Beaufort ete

Bethmale

Bleu de Termignon

Oh Lord, I'm sure I will have gained 10 lbs this week!  What cheesy joy!

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Wish I'd know you were there. We were passing through on our way home; would have loved to have met you.

Sounds like you're having a grat time & from the descriptions choosing well.

If you get the chance try one of my favorites which is gaperon.

Have a safe trip home.

[Dave Hatfield]

More on our English cheese experience. As mentioned before we filled up on lots of old favorites and ebjoyed doing that. I wanted, however, to try some new things.

On a Saturday we went to Ludlow where I found a branch of "The Mousetrap Cheese Shop" Small shop, big wonderfull selection of cheeses. What to buy? Lots of favorites, lots of new (to me) cheeses. The modern English cheesemakers seem to have a penchant for adding things to their cheeses so you get all kinds of combinations. I'm sure they're nice, but being a bit of a purist I wanted plain cheese.

So, I swallowed my manly machismo and asked. My question to the owner was; " If you love cheeses, know all of the English classics and live in France with easy access to their best; what three cheeses would you buy?"

Here's a picture of the answer:

Counterclockwise from the top.

Farmhouse cheddar - I put that on as I couldn't resist.

The recommendations were:

MONKTON - Semi-hard cows milk. Very tangy & slightly sharp. A very nice cheese .

CELTIC PROMISE - Creamy unpasteurised cows milk. From West Wales, very close to Ludlow. Soaked in cider which gives it a unique flavor.

Blue Wensleydale - Turns out that this is a very old cheese dating back to the 1300 hundreds & made by monks who emigrated from the Roquefort region of France. It nearly went out of production in favor of white wensleydale until recently. Wonderful flavour, nutty smooth & very creamy. Not nearly as sharp as Roquefort.

Wish we'd had more time to sample more types, but given lots of family in the Uk we'll be back.

[gfron1]

Thanks for the pics Yank - keeps my appetite up! I'm not expecting access to anything new for a few more weeks, then I'll be sure to share.

[gariotin]

Would have liked to meet you too, Dave - another cheese lover!

Your British choices look great - do y know the cheddar maker? I am partial to Quicke's cheddar - Mary Quicke is an amazing person and her cheeses are great.

gfron, you have still not told us the name of your store - I am assuming you have one?

L

[gfron1]

The store is The Curious Kumquat - specialty foods, with whatever cheeses I can get my hands on.

[gariotin]

The Curious Kumquat! I love it!!

[Dave Hatfield]

do y know the cheddar maker?

It was Green's Farm. suppodedly raw milk & aged for two years. I say supposedly because I'm not sure I totally trust the person who sold it to me in a speciality shop in Market Draton. In any case it was great; very sharp & very much what I like a cheddar to be.

I also bought a few small Dorset 'drums' to bring home. Two types bith farmhouse made. Haven't tasted them yet. Nice shop in Harrogate called Wheaton's where I bought them. All kinds of farm produce. Worth a visit if you're in the area.

[nakji]

This cheese is popular in Hanoi. It often shows up as a snack in bia hois. The first time I was served it, it was in shreds, and I thought it was squid. When I tried it, I thought, "Hey! This tastes like cheese!"

This doesn't happen too often in Asia, I assure you.

Anyway, I found some in a shop, where it's billed as "Russian Cheese".

Has anyone ever tried this before? What is it, exactly?

[Kouign Aman]

I asked a friend (& Stilton/Roquefort lover) about Blue Wensleydale,

and whether it was worth seeking out, to which he replied:

worth looking for and searching for and hunting down and eating after a short session of obeisance and genuflection and a couple of prayers say about ten seconds worth, then scarf it down and stab the hand of any "helpers"

So I guess I shall keep an eye peeled!

[gfron1]

Nakji, that cheese is fascinating. It looks like a smoked cheese, which I doubt it is. What does it taste like?

[nakji]

It is most definitely smoked. It's also very salty. I'm contemplating trying it in a poutine.

It's lovely to snip a few shreds off of and nibble on while I'm trying to decide what to order for dinner.

eta: grammar, punctuation, etc.

Edited November 7, 2006 by nakji (log)

[Chufi]

Sorry to get off the aged gouda issue(which I find difficult to believe in a 10 year old gouda)...

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FWIW, I stopped in DiBruno's on Chestnut on Thursday.

The "10-year aged gouda" they sell is from Noord Hollander. AFAICT, this cheese is imported to the US by Cheese Land, Inc., of Seattle--the Cheese Land web site address is printed on the Noord Hollander label--but there is no evidence of this cheese's existence on that web site.

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update:

I've been e-mailing back and forth with DiBruno's.

They told me they age the Gouda in their own cellars.

When I asked for the name of their Dutch producer/supplier, no more e-mails.

I have also contacted Cheeseland. Haven't heard from them yet.

[Dave Hatfield]

I asked a friend (& Stilton/Roquefort lover) about Blue Wensleydale,

and whether it was worth seeking out, to which he replied:

worth looking for and searching for and hunting down and eating after a short session of obeisance and genuflection and a couple of prayers say about ten seconds worth, then scarf it down and stab the hand of any "helpers"

So I guess I shall keep an eye peeled!

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No question that Blue Wensleydale is a superb blue cheese, but I'm not sure I'd rate it any higher than a top notch Stilton (raw milk, properly aged.)

As for France probably the closest in taste is a St. Augur which is also a terrific blue even if it is a 'modern' cheese. I used to love Blue de Bresse, but its been totally ruined by commercialization & now tastes like bad soap.

[Kris]

I decided to try a few new cheeses...so I headed to the counter at Fairway's in Brooklyn with my Murray's Cheese Handbook in hand and gave a shot at a few new cheeses.

1. Gorgonzola Dolce (Italy) - Too sharp and tangy for my taste. After trying several different kinds of blue cheeses, I've decided that I really don't like blue cheese.

2. Tomme de Savoie (France - one of the recommendations from the Murray's handbook) - yummy. Earthy and rustic, not too sharp, not too mild. I definitely like this one.

3. Queso de Mahon (Spain - a D.O. cheese) - recommended by the sales clerk as well as the Murray's handbook - very good. Quite salty and pungent with some sharpness to it. After a few bites, I thought I recognized some cheddar-like undertones. I can only eat this one in small doses due to the salt content though.

[gini]

...

1. Gorgonzola Dolce (Italy) - Too sharp and tangy for my taste.  After trying several different kinds of blue cheeses, I've decided that I really don't like blue cheese. 

...

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I think that you don't like blue cheese also. Gorganzola dolce is a more mild blue cheese (hence the "sweet" associated with it). Give me picante any day of the week!

[gariotin]

Nakji, I am also fascinated by that beautiful looking cheese! I don't associate dairy traditions w/Asian cuisines, so am surprised and impressed at how intricate and beautiful this cheese is. From your description, it sounds like it could be a kneaded and braided cheese like string cheese? I assume it is made with cow's milk? Do you know if there are cheeses like this in other Asian countries? I had a Thai exchange student living with me for a while and cheese was a new revelation to her.

[gariotin]

They call it "Russian cheese" as it is braided like a challah?

[nakji]

I don't think the Vietnamese would know about challah to compare cheese to it.

I'm going to ask somebody at work about it today. I expect it's a remnant of soviet influence, much like "Vodka Hanoi". I was hoping somebody on egullets would recognize it as a cheese from somewhere in Russia. It's made up of strings of pulled cheese that have been braided, then smoked. It's delicious. It must be imported, though, because it's quite expensive to buy, but at the same time, it's sold without any distinguishing wrapper.

This cheese thread is just full of mysteries.

[Dave Hatfield]

Had another frustrating conversation with madame at Limogne market. (see June,2006 blog post for background.)

This time she had a little chevre that looked really old. It was about 2 inches in diameter & 1/2 inch thick. Orange with 'spots'; price 78 centimes. I couldn't resist.

The conversation: (such as it was)

Me: is that a chevre?

Her: Yes

Me: is it old?

Her: yes

Me: how old?

Her: very.

Me: How did you age it?

Her: slowly.

Me: Does it have a strong taste?

Her: try it.

I give up. I've noticed that she doesn't seem to say much to her French customers either so I don't feel too bad.

Anyway, the cheese was strong & hard. The sort of chevre that you take a small morsel of & let it slowly dissolve in your mouth. Super. I must see if I can find the old man who sells even harder chevres at Villefranche market.

I'll take a picture next time even though the cheese isn't very pretty.

[LindsayAnn]

Picked up a blue today, Neils Yard Stilton something-an-other. I dont even try to memorize let alone barely look at the names of the cheese's I buy.

Why?

Because I am a fanatic, I have sooo many in my fridge at all times...right now about 16...no joke. Spent 62$ at whole foods yesterday on 5 cheeses...all less than 8 oz each. All goats and sheeps milks...one being a combo.

The one I fall in love with, I know em' by their look, hense how I get them again and again and again.

When I see a new one that looks interesting, smells interesting, or looks oozy (my fav kinds a lot of the time) I ask to try it...sometime you cant open them, and I just risk it. I have never been so disapoineted that I threw it out...okay maybe twice. But usually if its not up there I still enjoy it as I know I will never purchase it again (unless its by mistake...possibly the one downfall of not memorizing my cheese names...)

[gariotin]

Hey, Lindsey Ann - don't leave us hanging - what are the other 15 cheeses in your fridge?

At the moment, I have Point Reyes Blue, Spanish goat cheese coated w/rosemary, and Comte. Oh and also Quicke's cheddar from Devon - one of my faves.

That Neal's Yard Stilton is a special age that is done for them by Colston Basset, I believe. It is outstanding.

[Dave Hatfield]

I am a frustrated Yank!

I went to the Food & wine Expo in Toulouse today with some friends. Lots of wines & food to die for, one particular stand had easily over 20 varieties of artisanal cheeses. (Maroyn de Bartassac, 33720 Landiras. "fromages de gascogne & guyenne." )They are a family run firm. The samples I tasted were fantastic. I chose a vache, a chevre & a brebis to bring home.

The frustration? Linda is off on a photography course & has taken all of our cameras with her. So, can't take pictures which means I can't eat these cheeses until she gets back. (well maybe a little nibble.)

[gariotin]

Save enough for a beautiful pix, Dave!

[Sunny Simmons Steincamp]

I was hoping somebody on egullets would recognize it as a cheese from somewhere in Russia. It's made up of strings of pulled cheese that have been braided, then smoked. It's delicious. It must be imported, though, because it's quite expensive to buy, but at the same time, it's sold without any distinguishing wrapper.

This cheese thread is just full of mysteries.

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nakji, I don't know about the Russian part, but my parents (literally) smuggled me home some cheese that was very similar to what you're describing here. They lived overseas and traveled a lot, and knew of my fascination with "exotic" foods in general, and cheeses in particular. Dad brought me home a brined, smoked, braided cheese that he said came from Sudan, where such a thing is as common as Kraft Singles are here in the American South. (Not that Kraft Singles qualify as cheese, but you get the drift.) He said, however, that this particular cheese was somewhat unusual even in its home country, as most of the cheeses made in that fashion were not smoked, like mine was. It was glorious (to use one of those over-used foodie words.) It was so glorious, in fact, that I undertook to make it myself, and did so with pretty good results, thanks in part to a handy neighbor gentleman who made his own sausages and such, and had his own smokehouse, which he was generous with.

I must add that I undertook this project when I had a rather substantial amount of free time on my hands, and that I'm unlikely to have that luxury again anytime soon, but if I *were* to get back into my old hobby of making cheese, this would be one of the perhaps three varieties that I'd make again. I still make my own ricotta, and frankly, reading this thread has quite often made me wonder whether or not I could squeeze just a couple more hours into my days for getting back into cheesemaking...