Cape Cod Restaurants

[Paulazuchef]

Stagis, I think the family might like "The Lobster Claw" in Orleans and also Clancy's, I think it's in S. Yarmouth, the Marshside in East Dennis is family oriented and everyone will find something they like. Cobie's (a great clam shack and great ice cream too, in Brewster.) Swan River Seafood in Dennis port.

Have a terrific time!

[bushey]

It's funny you mention Chillingsworth, paulazuchef, because it's become a sort of standing joke for us. Every time we drive by I say "You know, I've always wanted to try Chillingsworth" and my husband says "I know, honey." But we never do seem to get there, between being tired from the beach or having plans with friends, or being with the kids. So now it's kind of a "badge of honor" thing that we haven't gone....though I'm sorry you say it's not been as good lately.

Brewster Fish House has always had good, if not fabulous, food: perfectly prepared fish but not always that imaginative. We've had some great meals and some okay meals, sometimes marred by a touch of attitude from the staff.

Have you been to Nauset Beach Club, in Orleans on the road to Nauset Beach? We went a few weeks again and we favorably impressed by the new management and chef (formerly from Abbicci). Interesting menu, fresh ingredients, excellent wine list and they now take reservations, which is a big plus.

Right now the only firms plans we have are for dinner at Abbicci, which we've always wanted to try. If we feel like trying a romantic place it would be Red Pheasant or Bramble Inn in Brewster, where we had a phenomenal dinner eight years ago. It's a little inn on 6A with small dining rooms. We went with no prior knowledge (we had a gift certificate) and were blown away by the food. Not much publicized and it's dining by arrangement only.

Hallet's is a place I've always wanted to stop in for ice cream, so maybe we will next week. Another place I've wanted to try is the Red House (is that the name?) for breakfast -- we usually go to Marshside when we're in Dennis. Scargo Manor, where we're staying, is right on 6A at Scargo Lake and they serve full breakfast so we'll be all set. I'm actually hoping to get up early and take out a canoe on the lake or do some swimming.

[iriee]

we were at the lobster pot in p-town recently and it was nasty! the service was horrible and the food was disgraceful! the chowder used to be great and now its like clam pudding! aauuughhh! the rest of the meal was worse! must be new owners or something because it was great years ago! TOURIST TRAP!

[iriee]

try 11 carver st. in p-town,,,we were there for the 4th of july and everything from the food,service and the dining room were first rate!

also ross's on commercial is a great choice for local seafood done in a very creative way! ENJOY!

[stagis]

5 days to vacation, and I see that eGullet has exceeded my expectations (again). Thanks, everybody, and I'll post family-style reviews:

How handsome the waiters are (from the daughter)

Was there enough all-you-can-eat pasta? (from the youngest)

Were there enough babes? (from the middle boy)

Was there enough butter? (from the wife)

And:

Did they keep the drinks flowing? (yours truly).

Argggh: family vacation with 3 teens..........

[bushey]

Stagis -- just got back from five days at the Cape. Found an old place under new management in Dennis that would be a great family place: Center Stage Cafe on the grounds of the Cape Playhouse/Cape Cinema/Cape Cod Art Museum.

Great salads, appetizers, thin crust gourmet pizzas (the Shrimp scampi pizza was wonderful) and casseroles like Lobster Pie and Moussaka. All of the food tastes incredibly fresh. Liquor license: very good frozen margaritas, bellinis, etc. Okay wines. Fabulous desserts (italian cookies from Buckie's, homemade chocolate mousse cake, cheesecake, berry tart, italian osrbet in frozen fruit shells). Stays open late so a lot of folks drop in after the movie or play for coffee and dessert. I think you'd find soemthing for everyone there. Oh, and the young adults on the waitstaff are extremely attractive.

[Sandra Levine]

Ranitidine and I will be spending a week in Wellfleet at the beginning of June. We haven't been to the Cape in nearly 25 years. What are the best high-end restaurants nowadays? Best clam bars? Best of the rest?

[VivreManger]

In South Wellfleet on Rt. 6, on the Ocean Side there is an unprepossessing place with a name like PJ's Fine Dining, not to be confused with a similarly named clam shack closer to Wellfleet Center. It does an impressive job on a range of dishes. Warning on weekend nights in particular the wait can be long since they don't reserve.

EDITED CORRECTION:

THE RESTAURANT IS CALLED FINELY JP'S

Aesops' Tables in Wellfleet Center was great about 25 years ago, but I don't think it has weathered the decades well. Nothing else within central Wellfleet is terribly good, except for the Flying Fish which does decent breakfasts.

Another Route 6 institution is Arnold's, on the same side of 6, but much closer to (perhaps in) Eastham. It has excellent fried everything and the oysters aren't bad. In Orleans there are two excellent restaurants, almost across the street from each other on Beach Road, the Nauset Beach Club and another place, called Joe's, I believe.

In P-Town, I have always liked the crowded touristy Lobster Pot, right in the middle of town. They do a decent cioppino, plus the full range of standard seafoods. Nothing imaginative or spectacular, but reliable fish. I think they have the best Portuguese kale soup. The rest of the restaurants nearby are not as good. There is a pizzeria on route 6, lodged within a motel, called Antoine's perhaps. Lots of hype, but not worth the price or the hoopla.

In general Chowhound is very good for New England, but I can't remember if the Cape is listed under Boston or New England. Its worth a few minutes search to see what you can find. I have often found Pat Goldsmith's postings (I think that is her name) reliable -- she lives on the Cape pretty close to year-round.

Edited March 11, 2003 by VivreManger (log)

[bourdain]

Clem and Ursie's--a clam bar, drive-in on Shankpainter Road P'town makes good Portugese squid stew and kale soup, lobster rolls, stuffed clams , shellfish on halfshell. Spiritus Pizza in P'Town is still good. The Portugese Bakery on Commercial is worth a trip for their meat pies, rabanadas and pastries.

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

When I was a kid we used to vacation at Newcomb Hollow Beach just outside of Wellfleet. We'd stop about half way up the Cape and eat at a small road side clam shack called Arnolds. It was nirvana. I haven't been up that way in years, does anyone know if it still exists...It was the cape in a nutshell. Great clams......

[bushey]

VivreManger and I are in complete agreement. Arnold's has great fried food, especially the whole clams, oysters and *lobster*. If you've never had fried lobster before you're in for a treat -- and Arnold's' batter is exceptionally light.

Finely PJ's has surprisingly good and innovative food but be prepared for a long wait unless you get there very early.

The Nauset Beach Club in Orleans changed hands a while back and now specializes in Italian food. Very, very delicious food, good service and a wonderful wine list. Best change is that they now take reservations. Near the Nauset Beach Club in Orleans, in the Barley Neck Inn is a great place, called Joe's Tavern, I believe. Good soups, salads, entrees.

Also in Orleans is a great place for pizza, The Binnacle. It's behind The Christmas Tree Shop. The entrees always look good, too, but we can't resist the pizza. Best Caesar salad I've ever had. You can design your own individual pizza -- the list of toppings is pretty exhaustive. They do a mean Thai chicken pizza.

Last year was the first time we tired the Lobster Pot and now we're hooked. Not fancy, but a wide variety on the menu, excellent seafood and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. I had the sauteed lobster on our server's recommendation and it was outstanding. I'd also follow Bourdain's suggestions for Portuguese anything since that's the local specialty. In fact the last week in June is when P'town has the Blessing of the Fleet celebration to start the summer fishing season and there's something going on almost every day.[just reread your post re:beginning of June but leaving this in for general info]

We haven't been to any of the Wellfleet restaurants in several years so I don't know what that scene is -- it had been kind of bleak. The Lighthouse right in town has good breakfasts and lunches and Thursday night is usually Mexican night, which is pretty good. For good dining, though, be prepared to drive rte 6 east to P'town or west towards Orleans.

The past few years the traffic on the Cape has gotten pretty bad and there can be a steady stream of cars on rte 6 from about 11:00 am until after 1:00 pm. In June it won't be too bad, and you'll be able to get good spots at the National Seashore beaches. Also, the Cape Cod rail trail has been extended up to Wellfleet, near the general store, so you can ride bikes to Arnold's or lunch and the Eastham Nat'l Seashore beaches (Nauset Light and Coast Guard).

Edited March 12, 2003 by bushey (log)

[Chef/Writer Spencer]

VivreManger and I are in complete agreement.  Arnold's has great fried food, especially the whole clams, oysters and *lobster*. If you've never had fried lobster before you're in for a treat -- and Arnold's' batter is exceptionally light.

Finely PJ's has surprisingly good and innovative food but be prepared for a long wait unless you get there very early.

The Nauset Beach Club in Orleans changed hands a while back and now specializes in Italian food. Very, very delicious food, good service and a wonderful wine list. Best change is that they now take reservations.  Near the Nauset Beach Club in Orleans, in the Barley Neck Inn is a great place,  called Joe's Tavern, I believe. Good soups, salads, entrees.

Also in Orleans is a great place for pizza, The Binnacle. It's behind The Christmas Tree Shop. The entrees always look good, too, but we can't resist the pizza. Best Caesar salad I've ever had. You can design your own individual pizza -- the list of toppings is pretty exhaustive. They do a mean Thai chicken pizza.

Last year was the first time we tired the Lobster Pot and now we're hooked. Not fancy, but a wide variety on the menu, excellent seafood and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. I had the sauteed lobster on our server's recommendation and it was outstanding.  I'd also follow Bourdain's suggestions for Portuguese anything since that's the local specialty. In fact the last week in June is when P'town has the Blessing of the Fleet celebration to start the summer fishing season and there's something going on almost every day.

We haven't been to any of the Wellfleet restaurants in several years so I don't know what that scene is -- it had been kind of bleak.  The Lighthouse right in town has good breakfasts and lunches and Thursday night is usually Mexican night, which is pretty good. For good dining, though, be prepared to drive rte 6 east to P'town or west towards Orleans.

The past few years the traffic on the Cape has gotten pretty bad and there can be a steady stream of cars on rte 6 from about 11:00 am until after 1:00 pm.  At the end of June is won't be too bad, and you'll be able to get good spots at the National Seashore beaches.  Also, the Cape Cod rail trail has been extended up to Wellfleet, near the general store, so you can ride bikes to Arnold's or lunch and the Eastham Nat'l Seashore beaches (Nauset Light and Coast Guard).

OH MY GOD The Lighthouse.....

We used to walk to it on the beach early early in the morning. That brings back beautiful memories. I'm glad to hear that it's still there...Rockin' good. Thanks.

[Pat Goldberg]

The restaurant is JP Finely's -- not PJ's, the clam shack. It is in South Wellfleet and does not take reservations, but if you call they will tell you how long the wait is. At the height of the season, this wait (the restaurant is small) can be very long.

A new addition for fine dining in Orleans is Abba's, a Thai influenced place. A copy of their menu can be found at http://www.pennyhouseinn.com/abba.htm. Reservations are essential. Also small.

Another non-clamshack place in North Truro on 6A is Terra Luna. Small, but takes reservations.

I'm not a clamshack person, so I can't help with these. But I would strongly urge you to avoid the Eastham Lobster Pool in North Eastham. For many years, this set a standard of excellence, especially for lobster rolls, on this part of the Cape. I have not eaten there in several years since it started to go seriously downhill. On the other hand, our son tried it last year and was grievously disappointed.

I would also avoid the Lighthouse. The best that can be said about their food is that it is inconsistent. Their clam chowder is dreadful.

BTW, signs of spring: I was on the Cape this past weekend and noticed that Clem and Ursies plans to open on April 10.

Edited March 13, 2003 by Pat Goldberg (log)

[VivreManger]

Pat Goldberg, "But I would strongly urge you to avoid the Eastham Lobster Pool in North Eastham. For many years, this set a standard of excellence, especially for lobster rolls, on this part of the Cape. I have not eaten there in several years since it started to go seriously downhill. On the other hand, our son tried it last year and was grievously disappointed."

I second the avoidance of the Eastham Lobster Pool, definitely down the skids.

I do apologize for mixing Goldsmith with Goldberg, in my original posting. I welcome your comments which I have always respected. Now if we can only get the name of that restaurant straight. I did edit and correct my original posting to "Finely JP's", but now Pat tells us that it is JP Finely's. Whatever....

[Pat Goldberg]

As the punchline of the famous joke goes: Greenberg, Goldberg, Iceberg, it's all the same to me.

And you are right, it is Finely JPs. I believe it is a play on Finally JPs, because he had finally gotten his own restaurant. Sorry for adding to the confusion.

I have remembered that when you call they will not only tell you how long the estimated waiting time is, they will also let you put your name on the list. However, if you do not get there by the time your name is called, you are simply removed from the list and have to go to the end again when you finally (finely?) get there.

[VivreManger]

"The Portugese Bakery on Commercial is worth a trip for their meat pies, rabanadas and pastries." Bourdain.

That place is definitely worth a visit. It reminds me of St. Viateur's bagels in Montreal and is more authentically ethnic, since it is still Portuguese. Even after stuffing myself at the Lobster Pot a hundred yards or so down the street, I still have managed a Portuguese custard or two at this bakery. It's that short walk that opens the arteries and lets the good pastries roll on down the gullet.

[bushey]

So far I've only managed to enter the bakery and inhale the wonderful smells, since I've usually stuffed myself beforehand. This summer, though, I'm going to try one of the little lemony custard tarts. My close friend, who is Portuguesese, taught me the name but I don't know how to spell it. It sounds like "pash-tej de nata"??

There used to be a homestyle Portuguese restaurant on Commercial, Gloria's, that had good food. We were disappointed when it closed.

I'll also chime in with a third thumbs-down for the Eastham Lobster Pool. Mediocre at the very best. For just basic steamed lobster, Arnold's does a great job and their chowder is wonderful. Also, almost all of the fish stores, including the one in Wellfleet down by the harbor, will steam lobsters for you and you can just take it home, cover the table with lots of newspapers and set to. And you could get an extra one for a lobster salad picnic lunch on some of the great rolls you bought at the Portuguese bakery .

[Pat Goldberg]

My favorite Provincetown bakery is Connies, co-situated with Clem and Ursies. I go principally for the bread when I am too lazy to bake, but their sweet stuff is also OK. The bread from the Portugese bakery is terrible.

BTW, Clem and Ursies usually has a special lobster night. It features large lobsters, typically priced at market price plus a small charge for cooking. Since I cook my own lobsters, I have never taken advantage of this, but friends say it is a good deal.

If you don't mind doing some picking, a fabulous lobster deal can sometimes be found at Hatch's fish market in Wellfleet. Bodies - big bodies - for free. Of course, they go very quickly.

Edited March 14, 2003 by Pat Goldberg (log)

[elyse]

Bushey, where was Gloria's?

I had breakfast at Flying Fish, and it was pretty awful. My home fries were white pieces of crunchy potato seasoned with salt and pepper.

We have a house around the corner from Terra Luna. Friend owned, and pretty good.

I would also recommend The Martin House. Unusual menu for P.town, and a beautiful historical house. It used to be called Snug Harbor, and the snug is still there. I always thought it should be used as a private dining spot fot two.... They have a website, www.themartinhouse.com. My friends Glenn and Gary own and run it too. They were winning awards for a while, but I haven't been keeping up on the news.

I used to work on the line at Mojo's (fresh food fast) many moons ago. They're a a tiny order through the window place by the wharf in the center of town. I don't eat seafood, but we were always slammed for lunch and dinner. They must be doing something right. Lots of fried belly clams, tenders, scallops, fish and chips, bla, bla, bla, but they do much more than seafood. The menu's on their website which I can't find at the mo. If you want, I'll find it and post. It's a good place to get food and go to the breakwater at the end of town. Walk out to the point and smell the sea. Mark and Kay are the owners and they're there every day unless the wind's up and they go wind surfing. If you go, say hey for me.

I second Spiritus' pizza, and Bubbala's is pretty good too. Front Street is supposed to be spiffy as well.

Tons of places I would not recommend, but I won't start a looong list.

Please tell us where you went when the time comes.

Ok, I have to recommend that you NOT go to Napi's. It's a tourist trap, the food sucks, and he's a dick.

Edited March 30, 2003 by elyse (log)

[bushey]

Elyse,

Unfortunately I don't remember the names of any of the streets intersecting Commercial so I cna't tell you exactly where Gloria's was. When we walk P'town at night it's all a blur......it was a large white house fairly close to the wharf on the same side as the bakery.

We used to go to a place called Gallerani's on July 4th and we always had great meals there. We also have had some good meals at Lorraine's, an upscale, Mexican inspired place.

The only advantages Napi's has are: private parking lot that they'll let you use all evening after dinner and a kids menu. On all other points, I agree with you.

[elyse]

Bushy, can you tell me what it was near? And it was on the side of the Portuguese Bakery? Before center of town or after? Stores open and close like tsetse flies, so it's hard to keep track. The one place I'm thinking of is next to where I used to live. It's been Christopher's, and Pearls, and about a dozen other things since I've been going there. It's got an outdoor seating area in front, maybe 10 tables? It was a few blocks before the center, when you start getting into the galeries. After Ciro and Sals, and before Town Hall. Thereish? Why do I need to know? I just love Provincetown.

I used to live directly across the street from Gallerani's too. The house with a second and third story walkway/porch, 132, top floor (bottom floor too the summer before). We ate at Gallerani's all the time durring the winter as they had townie specials for cheap. And I loved their cointreau french toast.

Lorraine's I can't deal with. I used to go there when it was Gruber's, but he died, and I just can't go there. He was such a sweet man. And fabulous food too. My ex used to work at the Old Reliable down the gravel from there, but It closed for renovations, and don't think it ever reopened. Fell off my bike in that gravel. Got racing stripes all over my knee. Cool scars. Now I can't remember if they're in the same alley....

Edited March 31, 2003 by elyse (log)

[elyse]

I have no idea if this will be of interest to any of you, but right before route 6 and 6A split, on the bay side (left) is the Atlantic Spice Company. Sorry to say I have never been, but people keep telling me to go. It was a giant blue structure last time I saw it.

[Pat Goldberg]

Atlantic Spice is a great addition to the Cape, especially if you cook and live close at hand. Their spices are fresh and small bottles ar uniformly $2.00, although not uniformly filled. Larger packages are even more of a bargain - I paid $2.50 as I recall for humungous bags of mustard seeds and turmeric. Their retail setup includes books and other food-related supplies, in addition to spices. Unfortunately for me, it has become a bit of a tourist magnet, so that in the summer there can be fairly long lines waiting to check out. This can be a problem when I suddenly discover I am out of something critical and dash up to make a purchase.

Edited May 1, 2003 by Pat Goldberg (log)

[jmcgrath]

It has been a few years, but in Wellfleet I like Duck Creek Tavern, the Bookstore, and Aesop's Tables.

There is a good fish market and produce store right downtown.

Jim

[elyse]

Next to the church. Or is it Town Hall?