The Square - new tasting menu

[tony h]

Its been some considerable time since l last went to The Square to eat & with the arrival of its new tasting menu now seems as good a time as any.

On arrival the menus, wine lists & amuses all arrived within seconds of our being seated. The amuse was a super smooth pate of salt cod with a couple of different bread sticks - v. good but the olive bread was in contention with the taste of the cod rather than complimenting it.

no pre-starter :sad :

First course - chilled watercress soups with rillette of salmon, cucumber & horseradish - a little caviar on top. Pretty wonder stuff- bright-green puree of watercress resembling wheat germ drinks from health bars. Excellent and satisfying salmon rillette/pate. Very good harmony of tastes with long satisfying finish. Good start to the meal.

This was followed by seared tuna & cornish lobster with gazpacho and avocado

This was a tiny portion of tuna and approx half-teaspoon of lobster. All very nice & refreshing but we are talking tiny tiny portions here. Frankly, just too little to enjoy or savour.

Third was a sauté of tiger prawns with parmesan gnocchi, cepes and truffle emulsion. Note: “prawns” was how this was described – the reality was prawn, singular. Very naughty. Also the was one single gnocchi – fabulous as it was – one just isn’t enough. Again, let down by size.

By now we’d been here half an hour and had steamed our way through 3 courses, wine selection and amuse. At this point was asked them to SLOW DOWN. Which they did.

The fourth was roast foie gras with caramelised pineapple. Stunningly seared foie gras with superb puree of pineapple. This also came with a large chunk of pineapple which was a bit too over powering for the fg. However, that was just a small complaint as the fg was very very good indeed – perfectly caramelised surface with luscious interior.

Next was steamed sea bass with lobster raviolis and vinaigrette of lemon. The sea bass was fairly tasteless and the ravioli minuscule. Not happy again.

Next was loin of lamb with olive creamed potatoes, artichokes, rosemary and garlic. This was a

single slice of the loin of lambs with half of one small artichoke. The superb olive mash was, what, about a teaspoon’s worth. I don’t recall any sauce or reduction.

Last was raspberry soufflé with vanilla ice cream. I couldn't tell the difference between the ice cream & haggen daas. Plus my soufflé was not cooked – the middle was still raw, I sent this back & to their credit they did send out two new perfectly cooked soufflé’s and a glass of very good desert wine.

By now we were fairly cheesed off – the best bits were the soup, foie gras and a teaspoon of potato. And, l was also still hungry which, after seven course, is quite shocking.

At 75 pounds – a pure rip off. Nothing worthy of a 1 star. Let alone a 2 star establishment.

[Matthew Grant]

I'm visiting tomorrow and I was tempted by the tasting menu but I think I'll be going ALC now

[howardlong]

At 75 pounds – a pure rip off.  Nothing worthy of a 1 star. Let alone a 2 star establishment.

I couldn't agree more.

At the risk of being severely beaten, I have been of the opinion for quite a while that The Square is living off a reputation that I've not been party to.

I have also long been of a mind to name it the Quaglino's of the 21st Century judging by the clientele that frequent the establishment (egulleteers excepted of course!).

Now for my beating...

Cheers, Howard

Edited August 16, 2004 by howardlong (log)

[Gavin Convery]

Howard,

Sorry but I agree with you and the service last time I went was appalling...I've pretty much given up on 2* in London now. Recent trip to the 2* Centenaire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac confirms the poor standard we have in London at this level (although I'm willing to make an exception for PaT until I return)

Gav.

[Clerkenwellian]

Howard,

Sorry but I agree with you and the service last time I went was appalling...I've pretty much given up on 2* in London now. Recent trip to the 2* Centenaire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac confirms the poor standard we have in London at this level (although I'm willing to make an exception for PaT until I return)

Gav.

The Capital?

[Gavin Convery]

The Capital is OK but not really at the equivalent French 2* level.

[tony h]

I'm willing to make an exception for PaT until I return

sadly that has become a fairly dire place to dine - the quality has plummeted of late (I used to lunch there fairly often - just around the corner from work.)

I'm afraid we're left wth the capital - great food, not great dining space & the gavroche - nose bleedingly expensive.

[Andy Lynes]

The Capital?

As an aside, the restaurant re-opens 1 September following a refurbishment. I will be paying the place a visit for the first time next month and will report back.

[Bapi]

the gavroche - nose bleedingly expensive.

That's cheered me no end

We are there for Lunch on Friday, but for the "all in" lunch which sounds eminently reasonable. Splurging a bit and re-visiting the Waterside inn a couple of days later - so it will be interesting to comapre the two. Will report back in due course.

[Andy Lynes]

We are there for Lunch on Friday, but for the "all in" lunch which sounds eminently reasonable.

The Gavroche lunch has long been touted as London's fine dining bargain - £40.00 including half a bottle of wine and water I believe.

[Suzi Edwards]

i've heard amazing things about their cheese cart as well.

[MobyP]

I went to Cafe Boulud in New York, where they have a lunch deal that charges the dollar amount of the post-messianic century you attend - so in my case it was $20.04 - which for the amazing lunch I had was a stunning bargain.

[Matthew Grant]

Fortunately I hadn't read any of the negative reports following my last post on this thread because dinner at The Square last night (Tuesday) was quite excellent.

Lasagne of crab with a Cappuccino of Shellfish and Basil was exactly as it read on the menu. The frothy sauce complementing the delicate Lasagne perfectly and it left me utilising that sauce spoon fully. Sauté of Tiger Prawns with Parmesan Gnocchi, Cepes and a Truffle emulsion Was much appreciated by Rachel. Generous shavings of summer truffle (which I have found to be very good this year) sprinkled over the top of the Large prawns and cepes all dressed in a truffle emulsion that seemed to of been enhanced with some truffle oil but not to ill effect.

Roast Turbot with a Crisp potato Rosti, Mousseline of Garlic, wild Mushrooms and Thyme was beautiful. Excellent quality fish, reflected in the £5 supplement, a meaty mushroom sauce complemented the Turbot and the mousseline of garlic was full of garlic flavour but with the raw heat removed. The potato Rosti was nothing of the sort and was more decoration than substance, thin straws of potato wrapped in a large cylindrical shape and cooked until crispy and golden coloured.

Steamed Seabass with Lobster Raviolis and a Vinaigrette of Tomato, Lemon and Basil was a masterpiece in sauce making. The sauce matched the yellowy colour of the ravioli (which must have been good because I wasn't offered any) upon which the seabass was placed : perfectly steamed with its skin glistening. The sauce completing all the elements of the dish and achieving a perfect balance and not at all acidic which was surprising given its tomato/lemon content. Quite wonderful.

A Raspberry Soufflé with Vanilla ice cream was as it said on the menu and a last minute change in order to Assiette of Strawberries brought, amongst other things, a miniature Strawberry Soufflé, Strawberry cheese cake made with Brillat-Savarin cheese (a slightly salty element to the dish was quite pleasant).

Clientele were a mixture of KGB spies, football club owner types and businessmen spending on their business accounts.

I hadn't been here for several years an in some ways the food hasn't moved on. It reminded of the 90's in an excellent way although I'm not keen on the room and the Scottish Maitre D' was a little hard to shake off at the end of the evening when we wanted to pay the bill.

[Matthew Grant]

Opted for the tasting menu on Saturday night:

Sweet Basil Jelly with a Red Pepper Cream, Tomato Confit and Gazpacho Vinaigrette - A Good start, more like an amuse than a course on its own.

Roast Scallops with a Lightly Curried Celeriac Purée and a Pomegranate, Raisin and Lime Dressing. Half a scallop which I thought a bit measly, excellent puree with a touch more than a hint of curry powder, the pomegranate adding a good textural contrast, couldn't detect too much of the lime.

Tortellini of Crab with a Cappuccino of Shellfish and Basil. A weak tortellini, the basil was nicely balanced with the crab but the shellfish sauce wasn't prominent enough although others at our table disagreed.

Terrine of Smoked Foie Gras with Summer Truffle, Pickled Girolles and an Apricot, Camomile and Honey Jelly. Very lightly smoked Foie but undistinguished foie gras which was a touch cold, lovely girolles, served with a toasted slice of "country bread" which was Pain Poilane

Persillade of Brill with Girolles. Again great girolles, the brill nicely cooked but the dish was dominated by uncooked garlic which I believe came from the persillade. I forget the puree accompanying. Additional roasted clove of garlic was unneccesary given the coting on the fish.

Sweet and Sour Pigeon from Bresse with Croustillant of Cherries, Figs and Pistachio. Nice rare pigeon that wasn't to our friends taste with a cherry sauce. Nice Croustillant with leg meat, figs and pistachio.

Passion Fruit Soufflé with Lime Ice Cream. I only had a brief taste of this as I opted for disappointing cheese as a replacement. Lovely flavour/texture which is exactly what you want from a souffle.

Service was efficient and I felt a little pressure from the Sommellier after telling him that we weren't looking for a special bottle he reccommended a £120 and then an £82 Riesling . It would have been nice to have had a properly considered options by the glass for the tasting menu.

Overall a reasonable meal but not excelling itself as much as when I have eaten ALC. I thought the portions were rather small as well.

[Jon Tseng]

agree on the portion sizing

the tortellini on the tasting menu isn't a touch on the lasagne on the alc which its a riff off of - I think its something to do with the small size, and how that affect relative proportion of the ingredients

ta

J

[ravelda]

Agreed with the above, I went to the square about 2 weeks ago and felt that the protions were miserly, and I just did not feel that the food was at all inspirational. I think this is a problem with most of the 2 star places in London, The Square, Le Gavroche and The Capital, the only exception in my mind being Pied a Terre. I find some of the one star places like Petrus and Tom Aikens far more interesting, and I wonder if that is because they are trying to push the boundaries to get up to 2 stars, whereas the Square etc have are at this level and therefore are taking the safe steady-eddy approach in order to ensure that they don't loose their accolade - thoughts?

[Matthew Grant]

I agree its hardly revolutionary food but because of this I have in the past found the Square solid at its level as well as reliable and on this occasion this is what we wanted.

I haven't been to Petrus in a while, the reason being the last time I visited I thought the food hadn't moved on a notch since the first weekend it opened in St. James. Have things changed?

[Jon Tseng]

probably quite true... the old "its better to go to a hungry ** than a complacent ***" syndrome.

While we're busy giving it a kicking though, we shouldn't forget what a classy operation The Square has been over the years though, and all the talented chefs who have come out of its kichens. I've always grouped it in that category of classy, long-lived joints (e.g. gavroche, chez b) which have made a virtue of *not* resting on its laurels. Write it off at your peril!

J

[Matthew Grant]

I'm certainly not writing it off, I would recommend going for ALC over Tasting menu though.

[ravelda]

I agree Jon and I'm not knocking it, merely commenting on the lack of 2 stars pushing the boundary for 3 - one star places seem to be more interesting at the mo.

[Andy Fenn]

Hello folks

I'm off to the Square on Friday night for my 3 year (!) anniversary. Anyone been recently? Any tips? The age old debate between a la carte and tasting menu seems to be pertinent for a few people at the Square. There are plenty of lovely looking things on the menu - if I can construct a tasting menu, I will, unless I am counselled otherwise?

Does anyone have a suggestion for a pre meal romantic drink nearby? I was thinking of Windows?

[Matthew Grant]

If by recently you mean within the last month and a day yes - see above

[Andy Fenn]

Ah yes, so you did. Sorry Matt, I tend to gloss over your reviews...

[Andy Lynes]

Does anyone have a suggestion for a pre meal romantic drink nearby? I was thinking of Windows?

←

Probably your best bet I would think. I usually go to the pub next door - I think its called the Wagon and Horses, but you wouldn't call that romantic! The bar at Benares is really nice (no views though) and that is literally around the corner.

I've eaten twice at The Square this year and had two really outstanding meals - some of the bet food I've ever had there. I haven't had an issue with the portion sizes.

[Matthew Grant]

Did you have the tasting menu or ALC? Half a Scallop in a tasting menu is simply mean.