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Andy Fenn

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  1. Here is my Top 10, with the Top 5 being truly outstanding: 1. Michel Bras (Laguoile, France) 2. Oud Sluis (Sluis, Netherlands) 3. Troisgros (Roanne, France) 4. Ledbury 5. In de Wulf (Dranouter, Belgium) 6. Gordon Ramsay RHR 7. Brindillas (Mendoza - ex Sant Pau chef) 8. Sushi Tetsu 9. Dinner by Heston 10. Sushi of Shiori Disappointments: Louis XV (Monaco) And I am generally loving London's mid end places: Zucca, Trullo, Jose, Hawksmoor, Bone Daddies have all been great places to eat this year
  2. Is this going to be another example of a chef from a restaurant dipping into forums/ consumer websites when a comment dares to question his or her food? Respectfully, I suggest that it does you no favours. Nor, I suggest, does chiming in with thank yous to a reviewer to whom you have sent freebie courses. Others may disagree. Others may think it is I who is speaking out of turn. That is fine - their opinion of my personality will not impact whether or not they come to my restaurant. I have had my fair share of sous vide meat that looks exactly like the duck shown in David's photos. Almost inva
  3. That skinless fatless duck breast looks like the worst example of sous vide in action. Did it really taste any good?
  4. Just wandered upstairs to my room after an absolutely stunning meal at In de Wulf. Mind-blowing. 8 amuses and 11 courses, without a single dud. Some dishes left me speechless. Lightness of touch, but without the reluctance to season properly that you find in some modern chefs. Intelligent use of local herbs and flowers, top quality ingredients, and wonderful flavour combinations. I cannot recommend this place highly enough. Only 40 minutes from Calais - go.
  5. I agree with Matt. There are already too many 3 star restaurants in the UK.
  6. PdT losing one was inevitable given Shane Osborne's departure. Has Michelin done away with Rising Stars?
  7. For a Big Ticket Dinner, I don't think anything touches the Ledbury at the moment. Go. If it's a nice day, have lunch outside. Otherwise, my firm view is that 'fine dining' in London is not the way to go. I have had so many mediocre meals at this level that I don't think it is worth it eg Ramsay, Wareing, Ducasse, le Gavroche. Much better are the mid level restaurants that do what they do very well. Hawksmoor is a brilliant restaurant. Great cocktails, great atmosphere, and great steak. Also the mid-level Italians - Trullo or Zucca are both brilliant, and provide much more joy than posh Itali
  8. A friend of mine who is not a member of eGullet has put a report up on london eating, and she asked me to post it here on her behalf. I have also been to Shiori a couple of times, and I agree with her views. It really is a great place. "My partner and I are always on the lookout for the best Japanese restaurants we can find in London, searching for the quality and freshness of the sushi and sashimi we’d experienced in Tokyo, or on our travels elsewhere in Japan, New York or California. Despite its unlikely setting behind Euston Station, tucked in among the Indian restaurants of Drummond Street
  9. Phil - we're off to this area next week. Did you go, and did you find anywhere good?
  10. After reading Giles Coren's review a couple of weeks ago, I tried this place for dinner last night. Very impressed. Starter with veal sweetbread, lobster, peanut and peas was great. Another starter of braised short rib with beetroot and pickled girolles was the standout of the meal - easily michelin star territory. Wild sea bass was poached with watercress sauce and samphire - well timed and good quality fish. Desserts were also interesting and a highlight - toasted honey bread with wild sorrel ice cream was very good. I was really pleasantly surprised with everything. Friendly and accommodat
  11. I had two poor meals there. Won't go back until there is consensus amongst people whose tastes match mine. I should add that I have no anti-Ducasse prejudice. I have not eaten at his other 3 star restaurants, and was very much up for the meals I had there. Save for the rum baba, they fell very flat indeed.
  12. The Harwood is a very different kettle of fish to the Pot Kiln. Technically it's at a higher level, thanks to Steve Williams, the ex Ledbury chef who runs the kitchen. He's there all the time, so there should not be any variability due to the chef not being there. The most difficult thing to get right is service. The Harwood genuinely is a pub. It's not like many of the 'gastropubs' that have a dining area with tablecloths and amuses bouches. It has a pub quiz on Tuesday evenings that I go to regularly. But it now has a michelin star, which means people expect a certain level from the trimming
  13. I have to second the recommendation for Public House. Simon Sheena is responsible for the best cocktails I have had in London (first and Loungelover, then at Anam, now at Public House). He has done an amazing job with the decor too - lots of very individual pieces of furniture, all of which are for sale. I went to both 69 Colebroke Row and Public House in the same night a while ago, and the latter was the clear winner for me. Also not expensive - I think around £8 a cocktail. And I should mention the beers list too - a lot of interesting beers from around the world. Too often these get overloo
  14. I also had a superb lunch there on Sunday. I eat at the Ledbury frequently, and this was the best meal I can remember. Every dish was a resounding success. Particular mention goes to: Celeriac spaghetti with bone marrow, wild mushrooms and mustard sauce Egg yolk and potato raviolo with shaved chestnut and the first black truffles of the season - cut into the large raviolo and you break the runny yolk inside. The combo with the chestnut and truffle was off the charts. Roast foie gras with christmas pudding puree 24 hour cooked shoulder of lamb with artichoke mash They have recently changed thei
  15. I had a similar experience too - I thought there were too many misses and not enough hits (this was two years ago). And the service was too frenetic to enjoy, which is inevitable I suppose, given the number of courses. I was actually very impressed with the room and location, which don't usually get much mention. As for expectations and reputations, I think it's an odd thing. Sometimes people do expect too much. But I actually think the reputation of a restaurant can sometimes make you too forgiving. Take my meal at Mugaritz a couple of weeks ago. The first few dishes came out, and they were n
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