Slow Food Diary -Study in Italy

[albiston]

(Alberto) - the grapes are Trebbiano = thanks for helping me remember.  They did not mention anything about the curd.  I didn't know that was the most important part of the process - it seemed to arrive packaged from somewhere else though - it looked and tasted like normal cheese curd, a bit more tangy than that of a cow - thats about it - def. gonna look into it though!

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Ore,

Since you're not far from the mozzarella production area I'm sure you'll be able to discover all that's needed. I'll just add a little info for those who are not so lucky.

When making mozzarella the curd has to be aged and acidified before it can be heated to the point where it "melts". To do this in the proper way, the milk proteins have to loose the calcium bound to them, and to achieve this the curd has to be acidified. This can be done chemically, as many industrial producers do, or through the use of a lactobacteria culture, used by most smaller producers. Every producer has his own culture and guards it closely, like bakers do with sourdough starters. The milk used in the cheese certainly plays a huge role in the final taste of mozzarella but the hardcore aficionados claim that difference between a very good mozzarella and an excellent one is in the culture used to acidify the curd.

[bleudauvergne]

Ore, I went to get Italian cheeses yesterday...

I am absolutely loving your inspiring beautiful journey.

[Ore]

Alberto,

Before I leave Nusco, I promise to visit and spend a late night with a Mozzarella maker. I hope it will be mozzarella but most likely will be fior di latte. Is the same process involved with the cows milk as opposed to the buffalo? I can't seem believe that all this time I never cared to think about the curd. I always thought of it as just being curd, and that's it! Thanks for shining a new light!

Lucy - thanks for the nice comment! I am glad you are enjoying Italy from my eyes!

Ciao,

Ore

Edited November 8, 2004 by Ore (log)

[Ore]

Well,

Another week flew right by! Tonight (Monday) we were open to host a special Terredora wine dinner. It was a great time and the Mastroberardino brother who I guess owns it, was here too. Tomorrow the restaurant is closed and on Monday we are all going to Rome for the award reception of the Veronelli guide. La Locanda di Bu was highly ranked and the chef is getting a special award (i think!).

Other than that, my friend Carla, a food and travel writer that lives here in Nusco, is almost done with her second book, all about the Campania region. Her prior book was all about Tuscany. Carla Capalbo is her name - anyone out there recognize or know who she is/have the book!?!?

Ok,

Ciao!

Ore

(before I leave this wonderful place (it is freezing cold outside), I promise to get the Mozzarella curd done!)

Edited November 16, 2004 by Ore (log)

[docsconz]

Other than that, my friend Carla, a food and travel writer that lives here in Nusco, is almost done with her second book, all about the Campania region.  Her prior book was all about Tuscany.  Carla Capalbo is her name - anyone out there recognize or know who she is/have the book!?!?

Ok,

Ciao!

Ore

(before I leave this wonderful place (it is freezing cold outside), I promise to get the Mozzarella curd done!)

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The Food Lover's Companion to Tuscany was a mainstay of mine when we visited Tuscany in 1998. It is an excellent book. A similar book about Campania will be a welcome addition. Please tell her that I am a fan of her work.

[Ore]

wow -

Just got back from the restaurant at Feudi di San Gregorio. An amazing meal - with OK pictures to tell the story. Look forward to it very soon as uploading pictures here still takes wayyyyy to long!

Ciao!

Ore

[Ore]

Ciao,

My review of Marenna has been posted as a new topic - you can read it HERE.

It is funny how things worked out that night - I met the chef twice proir to the dinner - once with my chef at the winery, once in Torino at the Salone del Gusto, and finally, at dinner - he is a great chef, young and very talented.

Interestingly, we met our waiter one week prior at a nearby restaurant called La Pergola in Gesualdo - not to be confused with the one in Rome! His brother is the Maitre d' of that restaurant!

And to get even more in depth, the Sommelier grew up and knew one of the other people I dined with - so, we all knew one person prior to dining - that equalled lots of fun!

I like tearing down the formality when I eat out and the dining room seems fancy, and the diners act way too fancy, but the place isn't a fancy place - that is what happend at Marenna'. Although the tables are overlarge, and the place is on the quieter side, we still managed to have a great time and have a great meal.

Ciao,

Ore

[Ore]

Ciao,

Not much new to report about here in Nusco. It is cold, but hasn't snowed yet. I leave my stage here in 20 days - I will be visiting some family in Israel for a few days and then coming right back to Italy for a new stage. Unfortunately, I am still unceartin of the location!!! (exciting!)

I can say though that the restaurant has been busier since the 2005 guides have come out. I don't think we made it onto the Michellin list but there is always next year for Tonino (chef).

Ciao,

Ore

[albiston]

I can say though that the restaurant has been busier since the 2005 guides have come out.  I don't think we made it onto the Michellin list but there is always next year for Tonino (chef).

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Ore,

knowing just a little bit how Michelin works in Italy I would not take the missed star as a critique. I would suspect the Michelin people simply did not visit Locanda di Bu' in time. There's only a few reviewers (i've heard numbers between four and ten), plus a few others that help. Therefore most restaurants, except the top places, do not recieve a visit every year. I'd wait for the 2006 guide to see how Tonino fares.

[Ore]

Ciao,

Thursday, Dec. 3, 2004, the olive oil of Ravece was awarded DOP status. Planned was a week long festa that included a grand banquet for 200 guests and oil experts/gov't officials.

Of the five restaurants participating, the one I work at was included. Below is the menu/comments about the event.

Olio di Ravece in my opinion is one of the greatest tasting olive oils available. My two favorite Frantoios are Hirpus and Coprovoli. The oil is extremely pungent and forte - adding a tremendous effect to any plate that needs a bit of life. Olio di Ravece comes from the Campania region and more regionally from the Ariano Irpinia region.

The first course for the banquet was an antipasto of vegetables and cured meat. It was provided by Ristorante Incontro, where the banquet was held.

I thought this dish was the worst to start off with - as it was the most 'banquet like'. The broccoli was brown and nasty looking and the plate was garnished mindlessly with a handful of crappy chopped parsley (IMHO).

Next up was a La Pignata, a restaurant from Ariano Irpinia. The plate was Pan Cotto con Erbe di Campa - Cime e Baccala in English...Cooked Stale Bread with Herbs, a type of bitter green and salt cod.

The third course was from La Maschera in Avellino. The dish consisted of... Macaroncelli al Branzo con Cavalo Broccolo, Passata di Lenticchie, Cotecchino, Crocante di Cacciocavalo Podolico - basically, this dish consisted of a Maccaroni Timbale covered by the leaves of broccoli - it sat on a lentil soup and was garnished with a crispy cheese tuile.

The fourth course was from La Locanda di Bu in Nusco (where I work). The plate consisted of Puree di Patate e Carrota Rosso (Barbabiettole) con Brassato di Podolico, Cipolla Affumicato, e Salsa di Ravece e Broccoli. Beet Mashed Potatoes with Braised Beef, Smoked Onion and Ravece Oil Broccoli Sauce.

I thought our dish was good - some of the braised meat dried up a bit because the chef wanted to separate the meat from the sauce to plate easier and faster - other than that, it was good - and the color of the potatoes really freaked everyone out!!

That was the main course - here is a shot of Vinny, one of the guys I work with, taking control of the braise -

Here is another kitchen shot - this one is of Lino, the chef from La Maschera in Avellino.

The pre-dessert was made by Oasis. I started a topic in the Baking and Pastry section to find out more about this dolce - it was truly amazing - life changing.

It was a Mousse di Yogurt di Bufala e Olio di Ravece - a Mousse from Bufala Yogurt and Ravece olive oil

The dessert was also made by Oasis - it was a Millefoglie con Crema Casalinga, Granella di Nociolle, e Cioccolata Fondente al Olio di Oliva Ravece - both were great - and pictured below.

That wraps up the event - afterwards there was an awards ceremony where the chefs were all recognized and given awards - the oil is great - if you get a chance, do buy a bottle and support this new DOP product.

Ciao,

Ore

[Jake]

Ore,

I have no idea how I missed this thread throughout the last few months, but I have just spent the most enjoyable hour reading from start to finish. Thank you so much for posting and sharing your experiences, especially the photos. I sincerely hope you'll continue this blog at your new stage, wherever that may be.

[docsconz]

The third course was from La Maschera in Avellino.  The dish consisted of... Macaroncelli al Branzo con Cavalo Broccolo, Passata di Lenticchie, Cotecchino, Crocante di Cacciocavalo Podolico - basically, this dish consisted of a Maccaroni Timbale covered by the leaves of broccoli - it sat on a lentil soup and was garnished with a crispy cheese tuile.

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Ore, thanks for another superb post. You always have some useful information in addition to your fine photos.

Is that a raw sausage on the side of the plate above? I doubt it, but that is what it looks like.

The fourth course was from La Locanda di Bu in Nusco (where I work).  The plate consisted of Puree di Patate e Carrota Rosso (Barbabiettole) con Brassato di Podolico, Cipolla Affumicato, e Salsa di Ravece e Broccoli.  Beet Mashed Potatoes with Braised Beef, Smoked Onion and Ravece Oil Broccoli Sauce.

I thought our dish was good - some of the braised meat dried up a bit because the chef wanted to separate the meat from the sauce to plate easier and faster - other than that, it was good - and the color of the potatoes really freaked everyone out!!

How did the potatoes taste? That is not an intuitive combination to me. Were they sweet? The color is beautiful.

[Ore]

Ciao,

DOC, that was a piece of Cotechino - it may have been raw as the plates I took photos of were about an hour before service (for the FOH staff) - because I also knew I wouldn't have time during service to snap the shots.

The potatoes were great - their texture could have used some help as they were a bit gummy for my Americano preferences of mashed potatoes but they were good. The beets added more color than flavor. Here in Italy (haven't seen it in the states) you can buy your beets cooked and cryovacked in a 2 beet bag - thats what we did (timing) - put them into a blender and folded it into the potatoes. For about 120 potatoes, we pureed 4 beets - you saw the results -

ALSO....

HAS anyone ever noticed the EXTREME resemblance in skin between a LYCHEE and a TRUFFLE??????

The fruttivendolo (veg. vendor) in Nusco had a small case last week from Madagascar. I bought a few at 7 Euro per Kilo and noticed the similarity right away. Do they have anything in common??

If so, I can't put any info they may share together - one grows on a tree, the other in dirt, one sweet/tangy - the other truffly!

Let me know!!

Ciao,

Ore

[Ore]

Ciao,

Another special event to report about...

I just got back from Taurasi, a fairly well known town whose name is famous for the great red wine made from the Aglianico grape (Taurasi!).

The event was held for Italian Journalists and the release of the 2001 Taurasi that will be on the market soon.

Here is a shot of the town about 2 km away - the zone of wine called Taurasi is fairly large, but the town is not very big.

When entering the town, I was glad to see this sign (the one underneath).

We cooked at Agricultura 'Taurasi'. This place was nice - over the mantle they had a $1 bill for good luck (I thought that was funny!). The kitchen was nice and clean so I was happy - and the fireplace made the dining room very comfortable.

Just before we started the meal, I snuck out and took some photos of the vines. There were still many 'old' style trellis systems. This type (below) was the most common. I am six feet tall - the vines must have been at least three feet above my head. How do they pick these grapes!?! The more modern methods are in place now - but I am not sure if that is a good thing or bad!

It was almost the same lineup of restaurants as last weeks Olio di Oliva di Ravece festival. It was us (La Locanda du Bu), Oasis and La Maschera.

The first plate to exit the kitchen was a mouth watering sampler plate of antipasti. Each restaurant put a tiny taste on the plate.

Here it is..

Starting on the right -

Oasis started off with an amazingly technical taste. This was (Italian first) Coniglio in Porchetta su Letto di Scarola, Pomodori Secchi, Olive Nere e Aceto Invecchiato di Casa con Olio Extravergine di Ravece...(English) Rabbit in Porchetta (boned, rolled & roasted), Escarole, Sun Dried Tomatoes, Black Olives and Aged Vinegar with EVOO of Ravece. Garnished with a dried lemon slice. All you can see is the rabbit - there were three slices - one underneath, the filling of all the veg., and two to cover the filling - then the vinegar and the oil.

I thought this taste was trully amazing. I had three 'tastes' as there was plenty to go around after the guests were served. The 'porchetta' was very, very well done. Seasoned well and extremely tender rabbit - yumm! The escarole and other ingredients brought the bitter, salty and acidic flavors needed to counterbalance the rabbit - good job Oasis!

The center taste was from La Locanda di Bu. It was a Panino ai Cereali e Baccala. Simply, a house made roll (chickpeas, cicerchia and corn meal) - the filling was salt cod whipped with EVOO, potatoes, olives, red peppers under vinegar and capers - very yummy and simple.

The taste to the left was from La Maschera. I liked this taste as well. (Italian)Metamorfosi di Insalata di Rinforso (a Revision of the Rinforso Salad?) some type of plate shared around Christmas time - The martini glass consisted of Cauliflower Cream, Black Olive Sauce, a Tartare of Green Olives, Red Peppers under Vinegar, Anchovie and a Dehydrated Crispy Skin of Baccala. The plate was well done - not a BOOM like Oasis - but very good.

The next plate out was the Cecalucoli from La Locanda di Bu. There is a picture of this pasta dish somewhere in these pages - I remember posting it a while back (don't want to bore you!!) - Basiclly, a Cavatelli pasta with Cherry Tomatoe Sauce, Lardo and Onion - Ricotta Salata to finish. This again was a simple, but bold flavor - I guess we were there to instill the bold, easy plates!

Next up was La Maschera with the main dish.

This dish created a lot of controversy in the kitchen between all the chefs and cooks.

This dish consisted of - Filetto di Maiale Gratinato alle Erbette Odorose con Mousse di Finocchio all'Anice Stellato e Insalata di Bucce d'Arancia Fritto. Pork Tenderloin Crusted with Aromatic Bread Crumbs, a Fennel and Star Anise Mousse & a Salad of Fried Orange Zest.

The plate was great - IMHO - amazing - the Mousse was very flavorful and light, the fried zest was robust and refreshed the palate - and the PORK was perfect.

Lino, the Chef, had the balls to serve the Pork (which his father butchers) Rare to Med. Rare. I thought it was the right way to serve it too! In Italy though, it is very hard to get the crowd to eat it. That wasn't the problem - all the plates in the dining room came back clean - they ate it all - but the chefs in the kitchen would'nt stop bitching about how pork should NOT be served RAW like that. It was perfect in texture, in flavor - all the way around. Maybe that jealousy thing was going around again!!

The dessert was done by Oasis - it was a spin off of last weeks dolce - the Mille Foglie two or three posts back - it looked exactly the same so take a look at post 106 (I think) for the pic. - this time it was crema alla vaniglia and it had home made Amarenna (sour cherries) as a topping.

The journalists all had a chance to taste the new Taurasi 2001 that will be coming out soon. If you really want to know what they thought - PM me!!

Ciao,

Ore

[albiston]

.....

Lino, the Chef, had the balls to serve the Pork (which his father butchers) Rare to Med. Rare.  I thought it was the right way to serve it too!  In Italy though, it is very hard to get the crowd to eat it.  That wasn't the problem - all the plates in the dining room came back clean - they ate it all - but the chefs in the kitchen would'nt stop bitching about how pork should NOT be served RAW like that.  It was perfect in texture, in flavor - all the way around.  Maybe that jealousy thing was going around again!!

.....

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Ore,

it could be a jealousy thing, but maybe it was just the good old Italian food traditionalism; you learn that pork has to be cooked to done, for health reasons (trichinosis), and anyone doing it differently is a mad man.

Recent trichinosis cases in Italy have been, by the way, more often than not caused by undercooked horse or game meat, not pork.

[Ore]

I want to eat Horse!!!!!

I know there is a HORSE MEAT butcher in Avellino...yummm...HORSE - hopefuly next week I will report back with photos!!

Ore

[hathor]

Ciao Ore!

Inspired by your pics, I tried some fried lemon zest last night on fish....worked really well. Red snapper fillet with the crispy lemon zest and frizzled parsley.

Thanks for the inspiration.

[Ore]

Ciao Tutti,

I am finally on my last week of my first stage here in Italy. Four months will be up Friday, Dec. 17, 2004. The time went by fast and I learned a great deal of things here at La Locanda di Bu. Not as much technique as I would have liked, but my Italian improved and I speak with a wicked Irpinia/Napolitano dialect...if I want to!!

My next stop is still undecided - 80% a Salumeria in Collorna (near Parma) named Al Vedel. The other 20% chance is still top secret - I don't want to jinx myself (so wish me luck!!).

When I go on to my second stage - I will most likely start a new topic - to make this a more easier to read blog - it is at 116 replies now - a bit long for a new reader - SO...Grazie for reading!!

Ciao,

Ore

[albiston]

Ore,

thanks agan for your fantastic diary and best of luck with that secret 20% chance. I'm quite curious to know what it is .

As we say in Italy, in bocca al lupo! (OK we say something else with wales too, but that's a bit vulgar )

[Jake]

Ore,

Time flies! Thanks again for the diary and I will definitely keep an eye out for the new topic. Best wishes on getting the top secret job -- can't wait to hear what it is.

[Carlsbad]

Grazie for writing. Hope to hear about the next stage.

[tanabutler]

Ciao, Ore. Grazie.

[Ore]

Ciao,

Still alive!! I am in Israel eating and drinking my way through this tiny country. I have made great friends through members here on eG and will post back when I get to Italia.

Most likely it will be the Salumeria in Colorno, near Parma.

Look forward to some good stuff!

Ore

[Jake]

Glad you're enjoying yourself. Happy New Year and all the best for 2005!

[Kevin72]

Ore:

Just want to add another rave for this thread, and I regret that I hadn't jumped in sooner. Great pics, write-ups, analysis, everything! I learned alot and am insanely jealous.

You should keep all this info handy, I think it'd make for a unique book one day.