My Year in Food (Long, long, long)

[Steve Plotnicki]

Bux - You're not the only one who hasn't liked Prune. I don't know what it is. Maybe the place just rubs me the right way. I think if you stick to simple things there you can have a good meal. As for Cafe Boulud and formal, it is formal. It doesn't really seem much less formal to me than when Daniel was there. And it certainly isn't any less formal than a place like Aureole.

As for Versailles, I have found the following to be true at Cuban restaurants in Miami. And I'm sure this goes for many types of restaurants all over. They pre-cook lots of stuff in advance to prepare for the busy times of the day. So I've had the Pollo Versailles be fantastic when it's freshly cooked, and mediocre when it has been pre-cooked. It was the same with the Chicharons de Pollo at Puerta Sagua on Collins Avenue. One time I had them and it was among the best dishes I ever ate. Hot, crispy, oily, garlicky. Truly finger licking good. But the next time I had them they had no luster and I realized they had been cooked earlier and "finished" for my meal. So I've learned to ask them to make them fresh. You know this is an entire thread in itself that I will consider posting and see if the professional have anything to say about it.

As for Norman's, I've eaten there a half dozen times and I would say that 4 out of 6 meals were great and the other two not as good. But oddly enough, the 4 times I went on weekdays during the 3rd week of March when my kids have spring break were better meals than  2 times I went during President's Day Weekend when the boat show is on. So I don't know how much there is to blame on it being too busy down there.

[Bux]

I suspect you are right about why Versailles and many other places like it are hit or miss. The flavor is often fine, the rest of the quality just isn't there most of the time. I suspect the flavor will often get it by at the first shot. On the next visit, one tends to notice that the quality is not there. The interesting thing is that the locals do't seem to mind. It's not like they were eating different dishes from what we ordered.

Norman's was okay and a good restaurant. It was just that I felt I wouldn't have missed anything if I didn't go. It didn't have that destination or even "worth a detour" quality for me. There are places outside of NY that are worth the voyage, but not near Miami for me.

[Wilfrid]

I just read Steve's reviews for the first time, and my ego had a great time simply because I agreed with so many of them.  There are days here (and I'm sure everyone has them) when I am just amazed at which restaurants other members like/dislike, so this was quite a relief.

Just a few comments.  Beppe - you are so right; what is so interesting about it?  Beacon - I ate there only once, and everything tasted like it had been cooked over a boy scout camp fire.  I was worried that might have been deliberate, so I haven't been back.  March - faint praise, I thought.  Certainly not all the dishes (let alone wine pairings) work, but I think it does the cutting edge thing better than Atlas does (or used to), and better than Union Pacific.  And good to see I'm not the only e-gulleteer who doesn't hate Le Cirque.

As for Eleven Madison Park, I have eaten there regularly, and have the feeling that there was a decline in the intensity and interest of the cooking after the first year.  This happens with a lot of restaurants.  The room and the service are still big attractions, but whatever happened to the excitement of some of those early menus?  I don't have my old notes handy, but I remember fingerling potatoes with black truffles, various pig's feet deconstructions, and dramatic meaty terrines.

Finally, Veritas.  I asked before and I ask again - isn't Scott Bryan's cooking just a little overrated?  I have found the food to be very pleasant, generally pretty straightforward, and I have also had some dishes go unexpectedly wrong.  Could it be that the charming ambience and service, and the great wine list, is making this look like one of the best kitchens in New York, whereas it's actually nothing special?  Repeated experiments persuade me that there is better food on the table at the plainer Fleur de Sel in the same neighborhood.

I used to average ninety new restaurants per year.  A new baby has taken about forty per cent off that figure.  Steve has given me something to aspire to!

[Steve Plotnicki]

Wilfrid - I assume Beppe would taste better over there. Just one of those fish out of water things. As for March, that was my first visit and I have to go back. But I have to admit the meal didn't instill a great desire to do that. As for cutting edge, I dont find Union Paciific to be so revolutionary, but more about making simple but unusual pairings. I don't think the spirit of the cooking there is to apply a tremendous amount of technique to the food like they do at March or Atlas. Your point about Eleven Madison and intensity is spot on. Though I can't pinpoint exactly why. They just might have had a better sous chef in year one then they do now? Who knows. I always wonder if demands for profits have a negative impact on kitchens. I mean suppose that they had to hire a lesser quality support staff for Kerry because of budget constraints. They should give us their balance sheet with the menu. Then we can figure it out. I know what you mean about Veritas. I love the place but I think they got a star for the winelist. I haven't been to Fleur de Sel and it is on my list of musts. And don't worry, your baby will grow up and you will eat again.

(Edited by Steve Plotnicki at 8:08 pm on Jan. 10, 2002)

(Edited by Steve Plotnicki at 8:09 pm on Jan. 10, 2002)

[Stone]

Japonica -- The one on University? That's probably my favorite sushi place in the city (I agree that it's 2nd tier). The owners are sooo nice. I loved walking over for their chirashi-zushi. Best bowl I've had. (They cut the pieces large because I have a large mouth.)

(I assume the 2002 version of this list is coming out soon. I did a search for Japonica because I had a craving for chirashi-sushi last night, and found this.)

Edited January 4, 2003 by Dstone001 (log)

[porkpa]

USC may not be great, but its a good deal north of ordinary. Like Steve said "it is what it is". Having said that, I think there are a few things especially their side dishes that I might make a side trip to have. The garlic potato chips, the turnips with fried shallots. The tuna burger and their regular hamburger are pretty good. A couple of the desserts, especially the banana concoction are a lot better than average.

Porkpa.

[ballast_regime]

steve: i admire your bravura, and i agree with your assessments about a lot of the restaurants you dined at this past year. i was glad to see a lot of smaller places in nyc (e.g., tomoe sushi) make the cut. may 2003 yield even more dining experiences for you to wrap-up in a year's time.

ian

ballast/regime

[cabrales]

Steve -- Thanks for the great post.  

I agree with you on Troisgros, among many other restaurants you described, and actually had the 1990 Echezeaux, H. Jayer there during the Christmas period.  :)  See postings under "Cooking" -- "Kobe Beef" and "Frozen Truffles".

Steve -- In case you are interested, I noticed on a recent visit to Troisgros that the 1990 H Jayer is now labelled "collection" (without a price on the wine list; I forget whether its price was labelled when I sampled). The 1991 is at Euros 370; the 1992 at Euros 350. I did not order either, choosing instead a modest Griottes Chambertin, a nice Corton Charlemagne Bonneau de Martray 1992, and a Puligny-Montrachet "Les Demoiselles" 1993 Madame Francois Colin.

Edited January 7, 2003 by cabrales (log)