Pure Food & Wine (raw vegan)

[jeunefilleparis]

exactly...that is what I meant by "pseudoscience".....

next time we can talk about "organic"

I have nothing against vegetarians per se.

the fresh water thing is essentially a myth but....

we are naturally carnivores but I have nothing against people who choose to go against nature -- especially if it's for health reasons

Actually Nathan we are not naturally carnivores at all. Carnivores pounce when they see or smell blood.

If you were to see roadkill on the side of the street, you probably wouldnt stop your car and dig in face first, that is what carnivores do. Also, real carnivores have huge sharp incisors, we do not have them either.

In fact I could almost guarantee that if people had to KILL their own food with their own two hands, a la caveman/woman time more people would not eat meat!

cheers my dears

Lauren

[slkinsey]

Guys... if we are going to have a discussion of vegan and raw fod diets, and the science/pseudosience/politics associated with them, let's have it in a different thread, shall we? This thread is for discussing the restaurant Pure Food & Wine.

Personally, for me, any restaurant's food needs to stand on its own. One shouldn't have to buy into the philosophy -- be it related to health, politics, whatever -- in order to appreciate the food. Rather, one should be able to appreciate the food simply as food. The philosophy is extra.

[ErinB]

I'm not vegan, vegetarian or RAW foodist, but I appreciate any resturant that can highlight unique vegetables and use them well.

I agree with Sarma about the restaurant creating foods that are not trying to taste like meat. Believe me, there are plenty of vegetarian places where you can go and order a hamburger and it actually is supposed to taste like one.

I've had the squash pasta with truffles, and it in no way is trying to taste like pasta. It tastes like squash. I agree with Bruni, in that the squash pasta was lacking something, the fresh peas in were great, but the sauce needed something else.

Edited July 7, 2004 by ErinB (log)

[razzar]

Thanks, Laurie. Way off topic -- you have a lot better memory than I do. The Post is my local paper and I had completely forgotten that he had written an article on this.

[alacarte]

Can anyone (Sarma, Lauren, anyone else who's been to PF&W) tell us more about the desserts? The reviews seem to focus on the apps & entrees, and exclude THE BEST PART -- dessert!

[sarmasarma123]

Guys... if we are going to have a discussion of vegan and raw fod diets, and the science/pseudosience/politics associated with them, let's have it in a different thread, shall we? This thread is for discussing the restaurant Pure Food & Wine.

Personally, for me, any restaurant's food needs to stand on its own. One shouldn't have to buy into the philosophy -- be it related to health, politics, whatever -- in order to appreciate the food. Rather, one should be able to appreciate the food simply as food. The philosophy is extra.

THANK YOU! I agree! :) And I will happily answer the question about the desserts - I can write in our current dessert menu and describe some of the items. We just changed two items today. Will do that shortly... have to be in the kitchen for our pre-service meeting now. :) back soon.

[jeunefilleparis]

Can anyone (Sarma, Lauren, anyone else who's been to PF&W) tell us more about the desserts? The reviews seem to focus on the apps & entrees, and exclude THE BEST PART -- dessert!

I ll say what I remember

Now my first dessert was the chocolate cookie withe pistachio icecream and chocolate icecream. I loved the icecream, apparently they use young coconut flesh ( is that right, Sarma?) I didnt love the cookie, its was chocolatey, but kinda chewy and just didnt taste great to me,,,,,,,

the next time that I went back, I tried the parfait, the watermelon carpacio and the chocolate pudding, all of which were brilliant. I LOOOVED the parfait, that was my favorite. it s honey ginger with strawberries and walnuts and i dont know exactly whats in it, ( only whats not) I m sure that Sarma can describe it better for you.

the carpaccio was light and refreshing, super ripe watermelon very very thin and there was a syrup on top whose name is escaping me. the pudding was to die for, it was super rich and super chocolatey with mint and raspbeerries, it could substitute for my choc mousse any day!

hope that helps

lauren

[ErinB]

I've tried the Pineapple Carpaccio and the Chocolate Pudding.

The pineapple was great, very fresh and ripe with a sage and anise? flavored syrup, very light, but added a great flavor.

The choclate pudding was very good as well. They use young coconut milk instead of the dairy that is usually used, and you could taste a slight coconut flavor, but it was still rich and creamy.

[sarmasarma123]

Yes... there is young coconut meat in the chocolate pudding, as well as in most of the ice creams. The watermelon carpaccio had galangal syrup (made of agave nectar w/ galangal added) and came with coconut lime ice cream and lime basil. That was on for a few days, we put back on the pineapple carpaccio for now, which has star anise syrup, pineapple sage and coconut ice cream.

The chocolate cookie can be a bit chewy at times... but as long as one is expecting that. It comes with chocolate and pistachio ice creams (again, no dairy.. all coconut and/or soaked cashews and macadamias provide the creaminess).

We also have sweet black cherries with candied almonds, lemon thyme and pinot noir ice cream. yum. And Debbie Lee... our most excellent pastry sous chef made a frozen lemon mousse with ginger snap crust, blueberries and blueberry sauce. She is getting really creative... went to the greenmarket this morning and came back and made greenmarket fruit ice creams... peach, gooseberry and sour cherry. yum! the gooseberry is amazing. And the sour cherries are actually from my mom's farm in NH - she sent them in yesterday and we put them on the menu for one night in place of the strawberries in the ginger cream parfait... OK.. I have to start paying attention to the food! I'm standing here in our fun kitchen w/ laptop writing a few sentences at a time as I get a chance, hoping i don't lose my internet connection! and that it doesn't thundershower on all the people in the garden... that's a fear I imagine we'll have to get used to!

Later for now...

:) :) :) :) :)

[jeunefilleparis]

Sarma

My friend went to dinner at Wallse last night and had this egg white huckleberry souffle, i really like souffles, but i dont eat eggs...... it it possible to replace it with something or do all souffles require egg whites to achieve the desired texture?

[Brad Trent]

My friend went to dinner at Wallse last night and had this egg white huckleberry souffle, i really like souffles, but i dont eat eggs...... it it possible to replace it with something or do all souffles require egg whites to achieve the desired texture?"

OK...now we're just gettin' silly! An egg-less souffle?!! What's next...Steak Tartare without the meat?!!

BeeT's

[sarmasarma123]

Sarma

My friend went to dinner at Wallse last night and had this egg white huckleberry souffle, i really like souffles, but i dont eat eggs...... it it possible to replace it with something or do all souffles require egg whites to achieve the desired texture?

Wallse was always one of my all time favorite restaurants, although have not been in about two years... and their desserts are amazing. I think w/o eggs, a souffle just wouldn't be a souffle!!

[jeunefilleparis]

"...My friend went to dinner at Wallse last night and had this egg white huckleberry souffle, i really like souffles, but i dont eat eggs...... it it possible to replace it with something or do all souffles require egg whites to achieve the desired texture?"

OK...now we're just gettin' silly! An egg-less souffle?!! What's next...Steak Tartare without the meat?!!

BeeT's

excuse me, there are subsitutes as we ve seen for many things, since i LIKE souffles, I thought that i would ask, ok, would you be happier if i create a word for something that is souffle like without using the word souffle?

some of you people need to get off your high horses with the name thing,,,,, pine nut cheese, pasta, deal with it

if Sarma you can make icecream without eggs .........

[jeunefilleparis]

you can make a freakin tartare out of anything, tomato, watermelon, tuna

[alacarte]

We also have sweet black cherries with candied almonds, lemon thyme and pinot noir ice cream.  yum.  And Debbie Lee... our most excellent pastry sous chef made a frozen lemon mousse with ginger snap crust, blueberries and blueberry sauce.  She is getting really creative... went to the greenmarket this morning and came back and made greenmarket fruit ice creams... peach, gooseberry and sour cherry.  yum!  the gooseberry is amazing.  And the sour cherries are actually from my mom's farm in NH - she sent them in yesterday and we put them on the menu for one night in place of the strawberries in the ginger cream parfait

I'm drooling over these desserts. And I'm so relieved that there's chocolate on the menu!

I always wondered what people did with gooseberries. I'm pretty sure we have a thread or two going on that, but it's interesting to see how a professional pastry chef works with gooseberries.

the sour cherries are actually from my mom's farm in NH

Very cool -- which farm? Sarma, did you grow up on a farm? (feel free to ignore if I'm getting too personal I'm just wondering if this is something that shaped your love of food.)

Edit: I found the Ultimate Gooseberry Thread.

Edited July 8, 2004 by alacarte (log)

[smgarsh]

you can make a freakin tartare out of anything, tomato, watermelon, tuna

okay, now its getting a bit crazy. Doesn't "tartare" imply a meat that is not cooked?

I've never heard of the term tartare used in conjunction with watermelon or tomato..

[jeunefilleparis]

okay, now its getting a bit crazy. Doesn't "tartare" imply a meat that is not cooked?

I've never heard of the term tartare used in conjunction with watermelon or tomato..

Well, i ve seen it! i dont have the menu to prove it;) so you ll have to take my word on it,,,,,, yes tartare refers to meats, but there are nut cheeses and cheeses usually refers dairy

[SobaAddict70]

okay, now its getting a bit crazy. Doesn't "tartare" imply a meat that is not cooked?

I've never heard of the term tartare used in conjunction with watermelon or tomato..

Just because you've never heard of a term used in that manner doesn't mean it can't be conceived of in a new manner or fashion.

Red Beet Tartare Canapé on Pita Crisp

Whilst tartare is usually defined as a preparation of finely chopped meat, fish or shellfish, tartare can also mean a preparation composed of finely chopped vegetables. This is a sample dish from a dinner that took place at The Beard House on December 17, 2001. Chef Robert Barral, of the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, presided.

Soba

[Jinmyo]

I've decided that souffle means anything fluffy and tartare means anything chopped finely and tall means white and salad means raw meat torn from the bone.

[tommy]

Just because you've never heard of a term used in that manner doesn't mean it can't be conceived of in a new manner or fashion.

but it just don't make too much sense is all.

[SobaAddict70]

So? The flattened oysters at WD-50 don't make any sense either -- but that doesn't stop people from ordering it. I mean, oysters are meant to be slurped up, juices and all, not made into a square of compressed gray-green playdough and eaten with a fork and a knife.

Whether or not it makes sense is irrelevant. The point is, PF&W is in the business of conceptualizing new takes on old standards and if that means creating a lasagna that has nothing to do with pasta layered with ricotta and cooked ingredients, then so be it.

What it really boils down to is whether or not the food tastes good, at least imho.

Soba

[smgarsh]

Whilst tartare is usually defined as a preparation of finely chopped meat, fish or shellfish, tartare can also mean a preparation composed of finely chopped vegetables.  This is a sample dish from a dinner that took place at The Beard House on December 17, 2001.  Chef Robert Barral, of the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, presided.

Soba

Isn't that more of a marketing approach/ploy?

Red beet tartare sounds a lot better than chopped red beets.

So who is going to be the first to serve a peanut butter and jelly sandwich tartare?

[Bux]

And we're not taking vegetables and trying to make them look like meat... but when we make a bowl of squash pasta with black summer truffles and sweet peas... what do we call it... "long strands of squash that happen to look a lot like spahgetti" ? It would be really hard to word a menu if we had to make up new names for everything... if something is prepared in layers like a lasanga, isn't it easier for everyone ordering if we call it that?

I realize a lot of people are very literal and more than a bit conservative when it comes to eating and talking about food, but the concepts of wit and pun in naming new restaurant dishes arrived in force some decades ago with nouvelle cuisine. Of course it's really been around before any of us were born. Head cheese is not a dairy product. I don't suppose there are any marzipan fans among those who object to those playful names.

[SobaAddict70]

Isn't that more of a marketing approach/ploy?

Red beet tartare sounds a lot better than chopped red beets.

You could say the same for many restaurant dishes on all levels of cuisine, I daresay.

Sweetbreads sound better than "lamb thymus glands".

Linguine with caviar and white truffles sounds A LOT better than "cooked flour/egg mixture with uncooked fish eggs and shaved fungus harvested by pigs and dogs".

I could go on and on.

Why is that any different from what PF&W is doing? Or at Trio, where one dish called "salad"

"Salad"

Red wine vinaigrette

We love this dish.  It really does epitomize what Chef Achatz's cuisine is all about.  It's playful and intriguing and it really gets diners thinking about flavor vehicles and how tried and true flavors can sometimes be reinvigorated by presenting them in new and exciting forms.  And it just plain tastes good.

consists of nothing but shaved ice?

At the end of the day, it's all about food that tastes good.

Soba

[slkinsey]

Okay, guys. I am going to step in here and moderate for the last time. If you want to argue about things which do not have fumdamentally to do with the restaurant Pure Food & Wine, you have two choices: 1) you can start a new thread, or 2) I can delete your post. I'm sure we'd all be much happier with the first choice.

For the record, it is quite common and it has been quite common for quite a long time in the culinary word to use naming conventions for dishes which evoke the original but do not reproduce the original. This is how we get things called "sea urchin cappuccino" and "salmon chops" and "zucchini spaghetti" and "monkfish tournedo" and "duck bacon" and "tuna pastrami" and, yes, eggless soufflé and beet tartare. This is not news, it is not unique to the raw food movement, and it is not something we should be taking about in this thread.

We have here a very interesting chef who "cooks" at Raw Food & Wine, who is part of the raw food movement, and who has been kindly disposed towards sharing some insight into this movement with us. Let us avail themselves of this resource rather than bickering about the definition of "soufflé" and "tartare."