Cooking Duck Breasts: Tips and Techniques

[Suzanne F]

And in addition to what DtC so correctly said, there's really no need for a non-stick pan, BECAUSE of the fat that will be rendered. Think self-basting. But it's the lack of fond that says "NO!! Don't do it! Put aways that non-stick and use a real, gutsy pan."

[fyfas]

Got it; understood and thanks.

The recipe does end up with a pan sauce; composed of sherry, honey and thyme.

[sammy]

It's also usually a good idea NOT to preheat a non-stick pan to high heat and it is exactly high heat you're looking for to get a good crisp duck skin.

[fyfas]

Yes, I've got a couple of All-Clad saute pans that are not non-stick; just guess I grab the non-sticks out of habit and, too, I'm often doing fish. Either way, it is a habit I'll break. I had no intention of making duck anytime soon but now with this discussion I'll do these breasts soon after the holiday.

The business about the various non-stick coatings "breaking down" and possibly being dangerous has been discussed for a while. The danger point is between 500 and 550 degrees I think.

[Brad S]

Just to add to your question,non stick pans are non pores,the fat and the natural moisture in the breast form in the pan with no place to go,so your almost "fry/boiling"your breast.A stainless pan will allow the pores to collect and develope your fond and deliver more even heat,thus the moisture will evaporate before it becomes an issue.

[mise en place]

The technique I use for duck breasts (magrets) is to score the skin in a fine crosshatch pattern making sure not to cut through to the meat. Season the breast with some salt. Put the breast in a cold pan skin side down and set it on a low-medium flame. It will start sizzling quite soon and immediately start to render the fat. After about 8 minutes from the time it starts to sizzle you should have a brown and crispy skin. Make sure you cook it long enough to get the skin good and crispy. Turn the heat up to high-medium and flip the breast. Cook for about 2 minutes and finish in the oven to the doneness you prefer. Remove to a plate, cover and let rest while you work on the pan sauce.

[chefreit]

Answer: sometimes don’t ask why? I’ve found using an old fashioned iron skillet or flattop works the best for this, start cold, finish hot, serve rare (chipolte & basil crust with pomegranate syrup or blood orange emulsion .

[chefreit]

A pan broil will sear the fond to the meat it-self. Also I prefer a seasonal fruit emulsion to a heavy pan sauce.

[robyn]

OK - Jacksonville FL seems to be getting a bit more trendy (maybe it's Super Bowl 2005). I can now buy fresh D'Artagnan duck breasts locally. And I did buy a couple.

But I don't have the slightest idea how to cook them. First and last time I ever tried duck at home was maybe 25 years ago. I tried to make a whole duck. Wound up with an apartment full of smoke from the fat - and a totally inedible bird (part of the duck was raw - part was dry and stringy - what a mess). It was so bad that every time I mention trying to make duck again - my husband makes a face and checks to make sure our fire insurance is paid up.

Well - after 25 years - I deserve another chance. So what are your favorite ways to prepare duck breasts. We prefer savory to sweet - but I know that a little sweetness in a duck preparation never hurt. I also don't mind chopping the meat up into pieces - for something like a gumbo - doesn't have to be served as a whole breast. Please note that if I screw it up again - I'll be too old to experiment for a third time 25 years from now. So try to do your best . Robyn

[GG Mora]

A simple sautéed duck breast with a side of lentils braised in stock is lovely. I personally go for the sweet(ish) and make a sauce of duck demi-glace with currants, though I cut it with a little vinegar (prefer honey vinegar if I can find it) to keep it from being cloying.

[woodburner]

This is I'm almost certain of no help, since it requires some special equipment, but just an idea to build upon.

I brine and smoke, farm raised duck breasts, and then slice thinly and serve with a horseradish sauce.

Smoked Duck is pretty f'in good.

woodburner

[Bux]

Friends in the south of France grill them over vine cuttings. Here in NY, we're pretty much restricted to indoor cooking. I don't mind a little fruit or sweet taste with them, but when I make them at home, it's usually without anything sweeter than a red pepper in the sauce or garnish. I score the skin and fat, but do not cut through to the meat. I also trim any fat that seems to hang off the breast and that will not lie flat in the pan. I like the duck fat, but I like it thin and crisp when I'm finished. I put the breast, patted dry, skin side down in a pan on a medium low flame and render as much as the fat as possible while crisping the skin and not overcooking the breast meat. I like the meat pretty rare and not much more done than I'd like a steak that size. I can't give you an exact time to turn the breast over, but you should be prepared to pour off the renedered fat several times. When the breast is at the desired doneness, you can turn it over, turn up the flame to high and sear the other side. Remove the breasts, pour out most of the fat and cook some chopped shallots in the pan. Deglaze the pan with some stock or wine and pour the reduced jus and shallots over the breasts. Duck stock is preferred, but chicken stock works just fine as would veal. Red wine, white wine, madeira, etc. Swirl in a little butter if you really want it richer. You can make the garnish as plain or fancy as you like. I like sauteed potatoes and maybe a green such as spinach or kale with mushrooms and pancetta. Or just mushrooms and mashed potatoes or polenta. Think of it like steak.

[PCL]

If indoor cooking is the case, hence no grill, no vines, no kick-ass smoker in the oversized backyard, I like to do the following, tempered by 2 years living in small flats (apartments) in London:

score skin, cut off excess, dunk in orange juice, white wine, splash of soy sauce, bashed ginger and orange zest overnight in fridge...

stick a baking rack on an oven tray, whack the breast skin up on the rack, reserve marinade, bake at 180C, dunno what it is in F, for 20mins or so, till brown... heat some oil EVOO if you like, in a hot pan, sear the skin till crisp, careful not to burn...

...pour off excess fat, remove breast to rest, deglaze with marinade and cook in some chopped shallots, season with S&P, reduce till syrupy... slice breast on the diagonal as thin as you like, serve sauce drizzled or on the side...

good on its own, and nice cold too with crusty bread, nice wedge of cheddar and a pinot noir...

[Wolfert]

Quite a few years ago, I watched Ariane Daguin prepare the a Hudson Valley \D'artagnan breast in the following manner: remove from the fridge about l hour before cooking; rinse and pat dry with paper towels; trim away a little of the fat; score the skin in a crosshatch pattern slighlty on a slant without piercing the flesh; sprinke the fat side with salt and some peppe ; and set aside while heating a large heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add a tablespoon of duck fat to the hot skillet. Place duck breast, flesh side down, and brown for about l minute. Turn the duck over, reduce the heat to medium low or even low, and sprinkle flesh with salt and pepper. Cook over reduced heat, fat side down only, for about 15 minutes or done to your taste in the rare lane PLEEZE. Leave the duck to rest on a wooden board for a few minutes then cut thin slices on the diagonal. Throw out the fat and deglaze the pan then add some cooked olives or some dried marinated fruits or whatever you like.

[rozrapp]

Here is the recipe for Magret a la D'Artagnan on their web site. I have used this recipe many times. One change I make: instead of finishing the magret on a grill, I do it in a 350 degree oven, skin side up. It always comes out perfectly -- medium rare, succulent and delicious.

[Brad S]

Technique wise I think Bux offered the most percise and widely used approach in pro kitchens. I would follow that advice, to take that one step further and to use savoury and sweetness in tandom, try marinated the breast in a bit of black strap mollassas,fresh ginger, a splash of Jack Daniels, a little soy sauce and black pepper. (no salt at this point) as instructed before, criss cross the fat with a knife making sure not to pierce the flesh (also, remove excess marinade)Lay the fat side down in a "cold" pan and raise the heat to medium and very slowly render the fat, you need to do it this way as to not burn the sugars. This will take maybe 15/20 minutes. Have your oven pre heated to 400 degree's, pour out fat and turn your breast and put it in the oven for about 8 minutes. Meantime, boil your marinade and strain through a fine seive to remove the colligen, put back on a simmer and add some duck,chicken or veal stock and mont with butter.

Pull the breast and let rest at least 5 minutes, then slice on a bias, season the meat with grey salt or fluer de sel. I like to serve the slices over mashed sweet potatoes and napped with the sauce.

[pastramionrye]

the best duck breast preparation i have experienced:

make a spice mixture in a coffee grinder of equal parts:

for example: cloves, juniper, star anise, salt, pepper and sugar, plus a bay leaf.

the most important spices are the salt and the sugar, the other spices can really be whatever you like, fennel seeds and coriander...whatever.

sprinkle the spice mixture on both sides of the duck, and let the duck breast sit uncovered in your refrigerator overnight so it can air dry, and the thick layer of fat can tighten up a bit and dry out.

season with salt and grill duck breast on low, rotating the duck breast on the grill often and basting with butter often. cook to medium rare and let rest 5 minutes prior to slicing.

sprinkle slices with fleur de sel.

grilled duck breast is by far the best! just be careful not to leave it alone while you go about other business, because the fat will drip into the grill and can spark up flames that will blacken the breast...if flames arise, just move the breast to another spot and spoon some salted water on the flames.

good luck.

[suzilightning]

Friends in the south of France grill them over vine cuttings. Here in NY, we're pretty much restricted to indoor cooking. I don't mind a little fruit or sweet taste with them, but when I make them at home, it's usually without anything sweeter than a red pepper in the sauce or garnish. I score the skin and fat, but do not cut through to the meat. I also trim any fat that seems to hang off the breast and that will not lie flat in the pan. I like the duck fat, but I like it thin and crisp when I'm finished. I put the breast, patted dry, skin side down in a pan on a medium low flame and render as much as the fat as possible while crisping the skin and not overcooking the breast meat. I like the meat pretty rare and not much more done than I'd like a steak that size. I can't give you an exact time to turn the breast over, but you should be prepared to pour off the renedered fat several times. When the breast is at the desired doneness, you can turn it over, turn up the flame to high and sear the other side. Remove the breasts, pour out most of the fat and cook some chopped shallots in the pan. Deglaze the pan with some stock or wine and pour the reduced jus and shallots over the breasts. Duck stock is preferred, but chicken stock works just fine as would veal. Red wine, white wine, madeira, etc. Swirl in a little butter if you really want it richer. You can make the garnish as plain or fancy as you like. I like sauteed potatoes and maybe a green such as spinach or kale with mushrooms and pancetta. Or just mushrooms and mashed potatoes or polenta. Think of it like steak.

yeah what he says but i also use about 2 thick slices of bacon cut into lardons and try them out so the fat from the bacon sears the breast skin and fat and the lardons are later added back to the finished dish - or used in a salad frisee to go with the duck

[robyn]

This is I'm almost certain of no help, since it requires some special equipment, but just an idea to build upon.

I brine and smoke, farm raised duck breasts, and then slice thinly and serve with a horseradish sauce.

Smoked Duck is pretty f'in good.

woodburner

Actually - the idea of having a smoker has always appealed to me. But I can barely keep the backyard critters away from the grill for 15 minutes when I'm cooking (and I have to do it by serving them dinner - dog food). I doubt I'd find anything left in a smoker if I left it alone for 30 minutes.

By the way - our back yard critters - mostly coons (plus armadillos and other misc. critters) are pretty clever. They actually know how to remove to grease drip pan from the bottom of the grill. I'll find it sitting on the ground - totally licked clean - in the morning. Robyn

[tissue]

Maybe you can try serving with a cherry sauce?

Yumm...

[robyn]

Friends in the south of France grill them over vine cuttings. Here in NY, we're pretty much restricted to indoor cooking. I don't mind a little fruit or sweet taste with them, but when I make them at home, it's usually without anything sweeter than a red pepper in the sauce or garnish. I score the skin and fat, but do not cut through to the meat. I also trim any fat that seems to hang off the breast and that will not lie flat in the pan. I like the duck fat, but I like it thin and crisp when I'm finished. I put the breast, patted dry, skin side down in a pan on a medium low flame and render as much as the fat as possible while crisping the skin and not overcooking the breast meat. I like the meat pretty rare and not much more done than I'd like a steak that size...

I'm a skin person myself (I will slave over a chicken or turkey to get that perfect crisp skin). Can you actually render out the fat from the skin side while not overdoing the meat (I think that's how I got totally messed up last time - while trying to get that crispy skin - I wound up with stringy overdone breast meat). Robyn

[NeroW]

Can you actually render out the fat from the skin side while not overdoing the meat (I think that's how I got totally messed up last time - while trying to get that crispy skin - I wound up with stringy overdone breast meat). Robyn

Yes. Score each duck breast through to the skin several times with a very sharp, thin (i.e. boning) knife. You can then either sear in a very hot pan and finish in the oven, or sear and finish on the stovetop. If the duck skin is scored correctly, the fat will render out, and you will be left with nicely-cooked meat and crisp duck skin (and a little bit of duck fat in your pan for potatoes, to boot). Yum!

[robyn]

If indoor cooking is the case, hence no grill, no vines, no kick-ass smoker in the oversized backyard, I like to do the following, tempered by 2 years living in small flats (apartments) in London:

score skin, cut off excess, dunk in orange juice, white wine, splash of soy sauce, bashed ginger and orange zest overnight in fridge...

stick a baking rack on an oven tray, whack the breast skin up on the rack, reserve marinade, bake at 180C, dunno what it is in F, for 20mins or so, till brown... heat some oil EVOO if you like, in a hot pan, sear the skin till crisp, careful not to burn...

...pour off excess fat, remove breast to rest, deglaze with marinade and cook in some chopped shallots, season with S&P, reduce till syrupy... slice breast on the diagonal as thin as you like, serve sauce drizzled or on the side...

good on its own, and nice cold too with crusty bread, nice wedge of cheddar and a pinot noir...

To do a temp conversion from C to F - multiply by 9 - divide by 5 - and add 32. Which would give us 356 F (or about 350).

What's "bashed" ginger? And how do you "whack the breast skin up on the rack"? Sounds very Jamie Oliver - fighting with your food . Robyn

[robyn]

I had a thought along the line of smoking. I bought these cedar plank things from Williams Sonoma last year. Use them basically for fish - especially salmon - on the BBQ (you soak them in water - and when they heat up - they emit smoke). Now I know you wouldn't cook a duck from scratch on them (too much fat). But do you think they might work in terms of "smoking" the duck if you rendered off a lot of the fat first in a pan? Note that this certainly wouldn't be the first recipe I'd try - or even the 3rd - but it might be an interesting approach for people who don't own smokers - but would like to "smoke" duck. Robyn

[Bux]

Can you actually render out the fat from the skin side while not overdoing the meat (I think that's how I got totally messed up last time - while trying to get that crispy skin - I wound up with stringy overdone breast meat). Robyn

Some things are relative. A duck is not a turkey or a chicken. When I speak of crisp skin on a duck breast, it's not going to be like crisp skin on a chicken. It will be much thicker and there will always be some degree of fat. Duck and goose fat, is far less unhealthy than one might suppose. Chemically, it bears as much relationship to olive oil as it does to butter, chicken far or pork fat in terms of its ratios of good bad and indfferent fats. This of course, is not meant to imply it's a low fat fat.

Nevertheless, if I've scored the skin well, maintained the right temperature and remove the excess fat from the pan as it renders, I can achieve a skin that's crisp and with little enough fat to please my taste. I can't tell you the right temperature. There are no measurements on the range top and I'm not always sure I'll get the optimum results if I haven't cooked a duck breast recently. There is, I'm afraid, some trial and error, but you can adjust the flame along the way. It should be warm enough to melt the fat without going too far into the duck breast. At the end you will need to turn the heat up high to crisp the skin and to sear the other side when you turn it over. My advice is to err on the side of undercooked greasy duck skin and discard it rather than risk overcooking the meat. The perfect skin is the icing on the cake. If the breast meat is rare and succulent, you'll have enough inducement to try it again and get it better. Overdone stringy breast meat will ensure you don't cook it again for another twenty years. Really good cooks can tell if it's overcooking by pressing on the top. Mrs. B is better at that than I am.

Others have noted the caution that I left out in my first post. As with all red meat, it's best to let it sit for five or ten minutes in a barely warm place before cutting it. That's another reason you want to take it off the fire when it's a bit underdone. It will continue cooking. One of the problems about taking advice from others who aren't really teachers, is that they tend to forget the things they do by habit.

I've never marinated a duck breast, but I've wondered about brining it before hand.