Paris restaurants with good value?

[picaman]

My partner and I are returning to Paris for a week at the end of March/beginning of April.

Yesterday, with my boss gone late on a Friday afternoon, I took an hour or so and compiled info from old posts mentioning recommendations for inexpensive but good food in restaurants we had not yet visited. I thought this could serve both as a good exercise for me (a big splurge for us is a well-priced restaurant lunch and dinner on the same day!) and a resource for others who frequently ask this question. Listed below are some places I found in my search. Restaurants with asterisks got multiple recommendations, were places I was otherwise familiar with but had not yet visited, and were recommended by people whose posts I've come to trust over several months of following this forum. Completely subjective, but I have to start somewhere. The rest of the places listed just sounded good for whatever reason.

*Fish - 69, rue du Seine (6th)

*Aux Lyonnaise - 32, rue St. Marc (2nd)

*La Régalade - 49, avenue Jean-Moulin (14th)

*Au C'Amelot - 50, rue Amelot (11th)

*La Chope de la Marie - 88, rue Ordener (18th)

*L'Occitanie - 96, rue Oberkampf (11th)

*Clown Bar - 114, rue Amelot (11th)

*Jacques Melac - 42, rue Leon-Frot (11th)

*L'as du Fallafel - 34, rue du Rosiers (4th)

*Cafe Constant - 139, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)

*Au Bon Acceuil - 14, rue Monttessuy (7th)

*Violon d'Ingres - 135, rue Saint Dominique (7th)

*La Fontaine de Mars - 129, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)

*Au Dauphin - 167, rue Saint-Honoré (1st)

*Chez Michel - 10, Rue de Belzunce (10th)

*Philippe Detourbe - 8, rue Nicolas Charlet (15th)

*Bistrot du Dôme - 1 rue Delambre (14th)

*La Cave de l'Os a Moelle - 181, rue de Lourmel (15th); and

*L'Os a Moelle - 3, rue Vasco de Gama (15th)

*Le Repaire de Cartouche - 99, rue Amelot (11th)

Aux Negociants - 27, rue Lambert (18th)

Calixte - 64, rue Saint-Louis en L'Ile (Patissierie - 4th)

Benoit - 20, rue Saint-Martin (4th)

Le Pré Verre - 8, rue Thenard (5th)

L'Estrapade - 15, rue de l'Estrapade (5th)

Le Dome due Marais - 53, rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4th)

Also, as I've learned recently, there are two L'Oulettes--the original at 38, rue des Tournelles in the 4th, and the new Bercy outpost at 15, place Lachambeaudie in the 12th. Having eaten at the original, we want to try the newer one where Marcel Baudis is now.

I'd like opinions, your positive/negative input, and any additional recommendations you may have. To help give you some context, I'd say our average cost per meal at dinner for two people, with maybe a kir to start, the prix fixe meal or entree + plat with one bottle of usually a house/fairly inexpensive wine, dessert then coffee is 100 euros-ish plus or minus 25 euros or so. Very ballpark but every little bit of info helps. If you think any of the restaurants are way out of that league price-wise, I'd appreciate knowing. Also, restaurant-wise, we prefer long leisurely dinners at more moderate choices over the inexpensive lunch at the higher-end places. We definitely avoid places where the locals are outnumbered and we don't mind schlepping anywhere on the metro or fairly local RER. We prefer to try to eat in Paris more as Parisians, and less as Americans, if that makes sense.

Finally, as further information, here are a few other places we've enjoyed over the years, many of which have been mentioned in this forum:

Au Petit Tonneau - 20, rue Surcouf (7th)

La Galoche D'Aurillac - 41, rue de Lappe (11th)--I never, ever miss going here

Les Messugues - 8, rue Leon Jost (17th)

Au Gamin de Paris - 51, rue du Temple (4th)

Bistrot Le P'Tit Troquet - 28, rue de l'Exposition (7th)

Tea Follies - 6, place Gustave Toudouze (9th) for Sunday brunch

Thanks in advance for your help!

Jamie

[Bux]

I share your disdain for places that are overrun with tourists, but Paris is a destination city for visitors well armed with the gleamings of good guide books. And Paris is a city well covered by food guides. There's no escaping tourists and you can miss some excellent restaurants if you focus too much on that.

There's a failry wide range of price among the restaurants I know on your list, but I think you can hold to 125 euros for three courses and a decent but inexpensive bottle of wine, with coffee and probably mineral water or an aperatif to boot at the most expensive of those I've mentioned on these pages. I've probably already spoken my piece on those I know and it looks as if you're done your research. The more recently I've eaten in a place, the more reliable my comments would be today.

[rshorens]

Here are a few places we enjoyed in summer, 2002. They are all very good value for typical french food at moderate prices, with minimum of tourists:

Aux Charpentiers 10 rue Mabillon 6th arrond. 01 43 26 30 05

Gaspard de la Nuit 6 rue des Tournelles 4th arrond. 01 42 77 90 53

Chez Paul 13, rue de Charonne 11th arrond.(Bastille) 01 47 00 34 57

Perraudin 157 rue St. jacques, 5th arrond. near Sorbonne-very good inexpensive lunches 01 46 33 15 75

Angelina for hot chocolate

I ate at Fontaine des Mars(on your list) 9 years ago- it was good and moderately priced,mostly Parisian clientele as well as those above

L'Epi Dupin 11 rue Dupin, 6th arrond,01 42 22 64 56

Have a great trip, and report any discoveries!

Roz

[vserna]

Be wary of Benoît if you're looking for value. For a bistrot, it's awfully expensive (but good). Only one Parisian bistrot is even dearer: L'Ami Louis.

[Guest fritz]

Quite some time ago I went to a place called “Le Relais de Venise”, located in a side street by Palais du Congress (nr Porte Maillot). It’s very charming, typical Parisian restaurant that served only one thing - grilled Entrecote! Meat was served in delicious estragon sauce and accompanied by thin and crispy chips. The nicest thing about it is that you get served as many times as you want!? Despite having to cue outside for approx 15 minutes in cold, it was the best value-for-mone meal I had for £12 / per head (plus wine). Is this place still going?

[tighe]

Based on my visit in September, I'd add three places to the list:

Chez l'ami Jean, a Basque restaurant in the 7th, not far from rue Cler.

Sud Ouest Monceau in the 17th, as the name says, southwestern French food.

La Ferme des Gourmets in the 16th, best foie gras terrine I had in Paris and for a pittance.

[swedea]

We just came back from our New Year's Paris trip and given the exchange rate we also looked at the moderately priced restaurants and used lots of information from this forum. Thank you so much to everybody who posted here! My favourite meals were at L'Epi Dupin, Cafe Constant and Atelier Maоtre Albert.

[picaman]

Here are a few places we enjoyed in summer, 2002. They are all very good value for typical french food at moderate prices, with minimum of tourists:

Aux Charpentiers 10 rue Mabillon  6th arrond. 01 43 26 30 05

Gaspard de la Nuit  6 rue des  Tournelles 4th arrond. 01 42 77 90 53

Chez Paul 13, rue de Charonne 11th arrond.(Bastille) 01 47 00 34 57

Perraudin 157 rue St. jacques, 5th arrond. near Sorbonne-very good inexpensive lunches 01 46 33 15 75

Angelina for hot chocolate

I ate at Fontaine  des Mars(on your list) 9 years ago- it was good and moderately priced,mostly Parisian clientele as well as those above

L'Epi Dupin 11 rue Dupin, 6th arrond,01 42 22 64 56

Have a great trip, and report any discoveries!

Roz

Great list--thanks for taking the time to post it. It looks like L'Epi Dupin gets two votes, you and swedea; that gets my attention! I've read good things about Aux Charpentiers as well.

Based on my visit in September, I'd add three places to the list:

Chez l'ami Jean, a Basque restaurant in the 7th, not far from rue Cler.

tighe, I'm familiar with this restaurant but haven't been there. Glad to see you think it's worthy.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to post their comments and suggestions. Keep 'em coming--no such thing as too much information!

Jamie

[Bux]

We just came back from our New Year's Paris trip and given the exchange rate we also looked at the moderately priced restaurants and used lots of information from this forum. Thank you so much to everybody who posted here! My favourite meals were at L'Epi Dupin, Cafe Constant and Atelier Ma?tre Albert.

Swedea, thank you for taking the time to comment on how useful you found the discussion here and to include the recommendations for meals you particularly enjoyed and valued. The exchange rate is indeed a hardship on Americans traveling to Europe, but there are in Paris, many restaurants that are still a bargain, or at least they would be in New York at the same price.

[ludja]

L'Ambassade D'Auvergne (3e quartier)

great regional food from Auvergne; reasonable prices and nice atmosphere. Be sure someone orders the Aligot (potato puree w/garlic, cream and Cantal cheese).

First restaurant we ate at in Paris (we were renting an apartment on the same block). Wonderful!

[swedea]

The exchange rate is indeed a hardship on Americans traveling to Europe, but there are in Paris, many restaurants that are still a bargain, or at least they would be in New York at the same price.

It is definitely true. L'Epi Dupin was a real steal with a 30 euro pre-fixe dinner and a very enjoyable meal. It also takes some time to get used to the idea of the dollar being weak -- I think next time I go (hopefully Spring) -- I will include at least one of the 2-3 star restaurants in my list.

[picaman]

L'Ambassade D'Auvergne (3e quartier)

great regional food from Auvergne; reasonable prices and nice atmosphere. Be sure someone orders the Aligot (potato puree w/garlic, cream and Cantal cheese).

First restaurant we ate at in Paris (we were renting an apartment on the same block). Wonderful!

Sounds great! My one always-visit restaurant in Paris is La Galoche d'Aurillac (in the original list) which also features food from Auvergne--you might want to try it sometime. I'm definitely going to put your suggestion on my list!

Jamie

[jackal10]

I ate at L'Oulette in Bercy early December last year. Written up here

EU249 for four, including wine and champagne to start. Good value.

Southern french cuisine. Pleasant room.

Excellent food, good ingredients well handled, but not a mind-blowing "I could never do that" experience.

Edited January 13, 2004 by jackal10 (log)

[hollywood]

Based on my own somewhat limited experience, L'Os a Moelle is the best combo of quality and value with its prix fixe meals. For good seafood with an Asian twist (and a little more money), Taira.

[tighe]

Based on my visit in September, I'd add three places to the list:

Chez l'ami Jean, a Basque restaurant in the 7th, not far from rue Cler.

tighe, I'm familiar with this restaurant but haven't been there. Glad to see you think it's worthy.

Two dishes really stood out as exceptional when I ate there. One was a piquillo pepper stuffed with brandade of cod and the other was pigs feet andouillette. I can't adequately express how good the andouillette was without resorting to profanity....

On the same trip, I had lunch at La Cave a L'Os a Moelle and absolutely loved it. It's a unique experience with joiner tables and serve-yourself food. I believe lunch was 25Eur/pp, which may seem like a lot for lunch, but the quality is exceptional and if you made it your main meal of the day, no question it's an extrememly good value.

[Louisa Chu]

La Cave's 20E p/p - get there at the start of service - and get the hot plats ASAP - they run out - you can work on the huge terrines, cheese boards, and dessert buffet at your leisure - and don't go with your dog - there's just no room.

Jamie, thanks for compiling the original list - this will be a good reference for everybody. On it I really like La Cave, L'Os, Cafe Constant, and Aux Lyonnais for the serious bargain cuisine. And I know you said you didn't want to do the lunch thing at the haute places but I really want to recommend the 39E lunch at Le Violon - crazy value and such a nice setting - especially decadent when you know you're doing it in the middle of the day.

[picaman]

I really want to recommend the 39E lunch at Le Violon - crazy value and such a nice setting - especially decadent when you know you're doing it in the middle of the day.

loufood, I've so enjoyed your posts over my past few months of eGullet-hood; I'm just going to have to trust you on this one

I can't adequately express how good the andouillette was without resorting to profanity....

Absolutely awesome and always a treat (that's a five A treat, right? )

Jamie

[Louisa Chu]

Jamie, thanks very much. I hope you like it as much as I did. I went on one of my long lunch breaks from Ducasse - so surreal to go from kitchen to dining room to kitchen again - and the Chef is so nice.

[Scott]

but I really want to recommend the 39E lunch at Le Violon - crazy value and such a nice setting - especially decadent when you know you're doing it in the middle of the day.

I second this one. I took Luisa's advice on this one, and it was super.

Ask them to match wines with each course.

[picaman]

Comfort Food at Comforting Prices in Paris

This was in the NY Times on Sunday, I believe. The five restaurants they cover relatively extensively are Chez Michel, Au C'Amelot, La Braisiere, Le Petit Pontoise, and Le Pre Verre. The author of the piece was Jacqueline Friedrich.

Anyone have comments on the restaurants on this list that haven't been covered in this thread?

Jamie

[artisanbaker]

cafe des anges

metro bastille

recommended for tourist free fare

66, rue de la Roquette

75011 Paris

Edited January 20, 2004 by artisanbaker (log)

[victornet]

You might want to check out Au Tru Gascon if you like the food of Gascony (my favorite cassoulet). It's been several years since my last visit, but I think it still fits into your range. Beautiful, intimate room as well.

[Pan]

L'Ambassade D'Auvergne (3e quartier)

great regional food from Auvergne; reasonable prices and nice atmosphere. Be sure someone orders the Aligot (potato puree w/garlic, cream and Cantal cheese).

Yeah, if you go there, get their specialties, but eat very lightly the rest of the day, and have plenty of Metamucil handy.

Frankly, I thought the place was overpriced and just not that great, but the more you stick to offal and high-fat Auvernois specialties, the better it is. But I think you're paying fairly heavily for rustic cooking.

You can read my meal report on Ambassade d'Auvergne here:

Ambassade d'Auvergne

[Bux]

Comfort Food at Comforting Prices in Paris

This was in the NY Times on Sunday, I believe.  The five restaurants they cover relatively extensively are Chez Michel, Au C'Amelot, La Braisiere, Le Petit Pontoise, and Le Pre Verre.  The author of the piece was Jacqueline Friedrich.

Anyone have comments on the restaurants on this list that haven't been covered in this thread?

I think I've already commented favorably on both Chez Michel and C'Amelot. Le Pre Verre was on my list of places to check out on our October 2003 trip, along with two or three times as many places as we would have lunches and dinners. We didn't get there, but a very trusted source had written " Le Pre-Verre - a very simple new-style bistro in the 5th - a sweet place for a lunch" in response to a request for information about new places in Paris.

[byrdhouse]

Our last night in Paris we went - on loufood's kind advice - to Le Clos des Gourmets, which for some reason has not yet received a star. As a bonus, it was even in the neighborhood of our hotel, a 10-minute walk. (A great dining experience feels more virtuous bracketed by brisk walks )

It was one of the most special meals in our two weeks, spectacular food at only €32 for an entree/plat/dessert. But beyond that, it has the only chef who gave us two utterly original dishes that were not only great, but employed wit as well as culinary style. I'm going to devote this entry to those two dishes. I should add that we were hampered in choosing from the 6 to 8 choices (which were described in detailed French) for each course, as the staff spoke no English.

The first thing that caught my eye was an entree, "Pressé de coq au vin rouge corsé choux chinois croquant au vinaigre de xèrés." "Coq au vin," of course is a cliche of French bourgeois cooking, and was in Julia Child's first book; indeed, I seem to recall that it was the subject of her first TV show (there is a famous photograph of Julia holding a plucked chicken by its legs). To put it on a sophisticated contemporary Paris menu is like Thomas Keller's elegant visual/culinary pun dessert called "Coffee and Donut."

What was served was a slice of terrine en geleé, "pressed chicken" in a red wine gelatine, over what was not bok choy, I believe, but a lightly dressed salad of Belgian endive. The chicken was probably capon, which has moister flesh, and whose flavor would not be compromised by being pressed. The gelatine was slightly sweet. The three textures were vividly complementary, and the whole dish was completed by a truffled vinegar reduction around the salad. It was not complex, but worked beautifully.

The other special dish was a dessert, "Millefeuille d'avocado, confit citron."

Appearing on the plate was what appeared to be a small "napoleon," with a light green filling. But oh, my. The millefeuille was sweet-sour, but with a distinct avocado flavor, puff pastry separating and topping the two layers. Citrus notes were everywhere: the top pastry had a grapefruit glaze, and drizzled over and around it was a lemon sauce with flecks of candied lemon peel.

This is work by someone with not only technique and inspiration, but humor. This is the kind of thing The French Laundry has done, but to find it at a prix fixe of under $40 is amazing. The co-owner/chef is named Arnaud Pitrois; he is 28 years old, and I am betting on his getting his first star this year, and going very far indeed.

16 Avenue Rapp, 7° Arrondissement

01 45 51 75 61

Edited January 22, 2004 by byrdhouse (log)