The developing Israeli wine market

[Andre]

A Glance at the Israeli Wine Market:

I tried to keep this short. Feel free to ask about specific wines or any other related issue.

Israel is a young developing state, well connected to many countries in the world and mostly influenced by the United States and Europe.

Towards the end of the 19-century, Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux, sends the first commercial amount of vines to Israel in order to support the young Jewish settlements. Most of the planting took place in the mid-coast of Israel and the first wines produced were through the Union of Vintners. Several years later the Union becomes Carmel Mizrahi, Israel’s largest winery currently responsible for nearly 60% of the wines and produces apx. 20 million bottles a year.

The first wines produced were the simplest form of whites, Rose’, and reds. The mass market of wine consumers, consisted mostly of Eastern Europeans [ Romania, Poland, Russia, ].

Several family owned wineries on a rather large scale, some of them backed up by the Baron, started emerging. Tishbi [ the Baron Vineyards ], Eliaz – Benyamina, Segal – Karmei Tsvi, and Barkan were amongst the famous ones. Christian monasteries were also making wines at this early stage. Latroun, Located at the foot of the Jerusalem mountains. French style wines producing the first Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer in Israel along with Cinssault and others. Cremisan, located in Beit Jallah near Bethlehem is an Italian style winery producing Marsala style wine, Carignan based wines and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Even though, some twenty years ago, they were considered as the best wineries in Israel according to dry and namely red wine lovers, today, both Latroun and Cremisan produce rather simple wines with very few exceptions to the rule. Most of their wines are exported to Jordan.

In 1983 the Golan Heights winery was Established. 13 settlements consisting from Kibutsim and Moshavim, initiated a research conducted by Professor Kornilyus of U.of C. in Davis, of the best location for vineyards. The Upper Galiliee and The Golan Heights were chosen to Cultivate Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Muscat, Emerald Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and recently Syrah and Gewurstraminer.

An open budget brought in winemakers from California, French oak, Top of the line equipment and good quality grapes. Export brought in the first medals and an important phase of consistent good quality wines was on the road. Indeed Carmel and others were exporting wine at the time but their export focussed mainly on wine surplus to the Jewish kosher markets in the United States and Europe. GH Local marketing focussed on the restaurants as a showcase and their own wine shops priced their aged wines at shockingly high prices. Wine was sought after as a worthwhile investment.

The early 90’s mirrored the Australian 50’s in a way. The boutique wineries started popping out.

Those who did not fully focus on their wineries [had other businesses] remained with simpler less character oriented wines. Many were faulty selling to mostly wine ignorants in a developing wine country.

In 1993 Tzora vineyards breaks loose from the grasp of the Carmel giant. Under the soul and soil penetrating viticulturist and now wine maker Roni James, this boutique winery was established. His vast knowledge in the vineyards lead him to the feet of the Judean Hills surrounding Jerusalem. The Soreq valley [ Soreqa is the biblical name for the best vine ] in the Moaav Yehuda region proved worthy of his insight. Even though the focus was on the cooler Galilee region with the Volcanic soil, Full bodied and most importantly, distinctive wines are produced today in this booming wine region with over 20 wineries around.

Currently there are over 150 wineries in Israel ranging from The Snowy mountain of the Hermon [ Jabal El Sheikh ] in the North to the Negev dessert in the South.

Moving from North to South here are some of the better ones:

I am not into politics and I think politicians are the lowest form of humans and that borders serve their needs. I will address the location as the map flags them.

Northern Lebanese border and moving East to the Golan Heights and Syria.

Galil Mountains:

The new ultra modern winery of the Golan Heights producing their first wines last year with wine maker Gabi G. [ guess where he studied ] producing a rather simple Merlot and Cabernet [ 8$ ] Chardonnay [8$], a nothing to right home about Pinot Noir [15$] and a fairly interesting Yiron Cab-Merlot blend. [20$]. Kosher.

Rosenbaum:

A rather simple boutique winery apx. 12000 bottles with Merlot 2001 being their best since their 1999 debut. Owner and wine maker Avi Rosenbaum, intends to start the first union for upper galilee growers.

Miles: [ spelled miless ]

5000 bottles of med. to good quality Merlot and Cab. First vintage 2000. Located at the famous Ben Zimra vineyards in the upper Galilee. Eyal Miles ownes some very good vineyards in the famous Ben-Zimra area.

Dalton:

300,000 bottles. Recently moved up in quality to produce average to good wines, under the supervision of a South African wine maker. Good price for the money.

Recommended: Sauvigon Blanc Reserve 2002. Cab Reserve 1999. Kosher.

Bazelet Hagolan:

6000 bottles with no consistancy in quality.

These guys will be able to make better wines if they focus.

The winery produces Cab. and Merlot. Their 2000 was the best vintage so far.

Golan Heights:

Dominates the Israeli good quality wine market with apx 3 million bottles.

Classic Californian oak aged style with wood overpowering their higher range [Yarden \ Katserin ] when young and sometimes all through.

Series from best to simpler: Katserin [ selected years ] , Yarden, Gamla and Golan.

They produce very correct wines but lack characteristics of the vineyards and complexity. Kosher

Chateau Golan:

A rising star of a showcase, rather small, boutique winery with apx. 20,000 bottles.

Heavily invested in top equipment and a young talented Uri Chets as the winemaker.[ Studied in Oregon ]

Perfect med. + bodied Cabernet and Merlot with Syrah on the way. [30$]

Moving south to Lake Galilee and the Tabor area: The Lower Galilee.

Tabor:

Heavily invested 300,000 bottle winery with a bad start in 1999 but the 2001 are showing promising Cab. Merlot and Chardonnay. Kosher.

Even though this is a major vine growing area, there are very few wineries.

Go West young man….

After relaxing on the sunny beaches of Haifa we move South along the cost to Zichron.

Zichron Yaacov is famous for one of the 2 Carmel wineries, Tishbi and Binyamina wineries. Mostly large industrial wineries of Medium quality.

Amphora:

Certainly a winery to look out for. Talented Gil Shatsberg [ Davis ] is now out with his second vintage of new world wines perfectly balanced with oak and a med + body.

Their new 2001 Cab-Merlot is their best so far.

Margalit:

Talented Chemist Yair Margalit is famous for his dark and dense wines that became a trademark for expensive boutique wines. Privileged customers on his list are aloud to buy up to 24 bottles from his 10 to 15 thousand bottles. Apx. 40$

1993 and 2000 his best vintages so far.

Recanati:

Another heavily invested 300,000 bottles new winery with 3 series on mind.

Recanati: simple Cab. Merlot and Chardonnay. 10$

Recanati Reserve: a bit more interesting Cab and Merlot with a good oaky Chardonny.

Recanati Special Reserve: Med to full bodied Cab-Merlot blend 30$

Kosher.

A new cheaper line is on the way.

Alexander:

Over priced Yauppie boutique winery ranging between 30$-50$ a bottle for medium bodied to med+ not o complex wines. Apx 7500 bottles

An interesting Port style wine was produces last year 45 $

Saslove:

Med. bodied oaky wines that lack both complexity and character produced by Canadian Barry Salove. 20,000 bottles.

Look out for the 1999 Reserve Cab. as one of his best.

Even though the winery is 8 years old, like many other Israeli wineries, the winery changed vineyards during its short life span, making it difficult to characterize the wine.

Orna Chillag:

Long time peace activist and a woman of many talents happened to fall into Antinori’s lap during her wine studies in Italy. She joined the production of the famous 1998 Guado Al Tasso, and tends to preserve the classic world techniques with minimum intervention.

Look out for her 2001 Merlot. Very promising.

Karmei Yossef:

2001 is the first vintage of Prof. Ben-Ami Bravdo and his student Prof. Nussoyov. Both experts managed to come out with a fairly drinkable Med. + bodied Cab. apx. 5000 bottles produced. An excellent start 30$.

Flam:

Carmel’S chief winemaker Israel Flam directed well his two sons Golan and Gilad.

Golan trained at the famous Carpineto winery in Tuscany and in Australia and combined classic and new world technique in their new winery.

They produce Cabernet and merlor in the Reserve line [35$ ] and a secon label blend of Cab. And Merlot - Classico, 17$.

A very good start for this winery.

Meishar and Zauberman

Two small boutique wineries that managed well in the hot climate of southern Israel. These gargiste managed well in the Meishar Cab 730 2000 and the Zauberman Melot 2000.

Ramat Arad:

Carmel’s new winery in the southern area Be’er Sheva. Look out for their Merlot as one of Carmel’s best. Kosher.

East towards Jerusalem…

Tzora:

Medium and full bodied wines producing distinctive wines since 1993. The best expression of terroire in Israel from the 300 m Soreq hills [ stone ridge ] and the 600m Neveh Ilan [ Misty hills ]. Jancis Robinson Ranked the 1999 Ilan as the best Israeli red wine she tasted. Personally I find this winery as the most Interesting in Israel. Not objective here so I’ll move on.

60,000 bottles from Cab., Merlot, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat.

Kosher from 2002.

The winery intends to double production in 2004.

Moni Winery

The bishop must love wine. This winery is located at the heart of the Deir Rafat convent. The Artul family attends to a rather large sectuion of the fine vineyards surrounding and the wine production. Apx. 5000 bottles are produced with a faily drinkable Nouveau Merlot out and the Reserve Cabernet and Merlot still being aged in French oak.

Impressive knowledge is being expressed in the vineyards with over ten different varieties grown in different location surrounding the monestary.

Castel:

In 1992 Sereena Suthcliff [ hope I spelled that right ]of Sotheby’s received a bottle of wine from owner Eli Ben Zaken. Tasting it in her kitchen she complimented it by comparing it to a Bordeaux wine. The heavily invested winery with new French oak, modern wine equipment, beautiful location on the Jerusalem mountain and excellent PR, produces Cab-Merlot blends with Bordeaux flavors in mind. 35 $ a bottle for the Grand vin and 27 $ for the Petit. And 30$ for a Chardonnay sur lie called Castel C.

Well made wines that are mostly dominated by the French oak. Kosher from 2002.

Sea Horse winery.

Movie director Ze’ev Dunya, opened his Garagist winery at the year 2000.

Sitting on his porch in the Bar Giyora village in the Jerusalem mountains, I inquired about the name.

“A noble creature I simply love to watch” he answered.

His wines are usually blended mostly from Cabernet and Merlot with a small addition of Syrah. Currently he is experimenting on Zinfandel and Grenache.

Look o ut for his Elul 2001. Medium to full bodied, fairly complex and well balanced. 25 $.

Soreq:

Wine maker Nir Shaham is into medium and full bodied wines. His wines tend to open – up after 2-4 years with Cabernet and Merlot as his leading varieties.

Apx. 20,000 bottles produced. Interesting though not too complex. 20$-40$.

Constantly improving after a rather bad start in 1995.

Ella Valley Winery:

Under construction with a heavy foreign investment. A glance at the new equipment revealed what any winemaker would dream of. The must looked very promising. The idea is to have different fermentation tanks for each vineyard. Will be Kosher.

Local habits:

Medium dry Emerald Riesling rules about 25 % of the market. Most of the Israeli wine quantity produced is Kosher since Supermarket chains, hotels and wedding halls can not sell non-kosher wines [they will be banned by the religious jews. Export markets are much easier when the wines are kosher. Famous wineries like Castel and Tsora have gone kosher since 2002.

Professional wine shops are selling mostly red wines. The wine market is rapidly developing both in terms of production and consumption. Competition and knowledge will push up the quality considerably.

Who drinks what:

Orthodox Jews: Only Badats Kosher and Mevushal

Most Jews: local rabbinate Kosher not necessarily Mevushal.

Moderate Jews. Kosher not necessary.

Muslim Arabs: mostly don’t drink alcohol.

Moderate Muslims: Into scotch mainly but also wines lately.

Bahai: No alcohol allowed.

Christian Arabs: Depend on local habits but more and more are interested in wines.

My own view of the market:

Most wines are fairly simple with very few exceptions. The large wineries are aiming at the international Jewish communities and the Iraqi war has answered their prayers. The Local garagists are trying to fight their way with the expression of their terroire and mostly they are not Kosher. Over all, prices of good wines are expensive, but as long as the local market serves as the main market, prices will have to come down once the surplus hits the producers in the face. To sum up: a very young fast developing industry with little expression of the soil.

TN's not included.

Thanks for reading

Andre

[Fat Guy]

Many thanks for all this information.

I think the big issue with marketing in the US is distinguishing between kosher wine (which, though not correctly, has a negative connotation among US Jews on account of the sweet wines associated with Passover) and Israeli wine (which may or may not be kosher and which may or may not be sweet). People here -- even some Jews -- have a hard time separating and categorizing terms like kosher, Jewish, and Israeli.

[bloviatrix]

Andre,

Do you know what prompted wineries such as Recanati and Tzora to become kosher? I would think the winemakers would be afraid their wines will be locked into the kosher wine ghetto and not be seen by the general public.

[boaziko]

At least for us, here on EG, this is no longer true, as we all may enjoy Andre's knowledge. I can testify that he is very trustworthy in all wine aspects, as well as food, and he is also a very nice and kind person, bless his soil ah..soul. I wish there were less than 65 miles between Haifa and Tel Aviv, so I could easily visit him on top of the Carmel Mountain and have a glass of great wine or even Loomi.

I guess he would be happy to provide us with a list of what he considers to be top Israeli kosher and non kosher red and white wines, and even those that do show some character of their soil.

Boaziko.

[Jason Perlow]

I've had some nice dessert mucscats from Israel.

[boaziko]

Yarden Winery just celebrated its 20th B-day and released 3000 0.375 bottles of:

Yarden Noble Semillon 2001(Botrytis)

It is on sale since last week, and moving fast. Haven't tried it yet, but heard it is the best Israeli Dessert wine ever. It costs 95 Shekels = 22 $

Go for it, Passover would never be the same.

Boaziko

[bloviatrix]

I had a Yarden Reisling two weeks ago that was quite good. We demolished the bottle fairly quickly. It was lightly sweet without being cloying. I'll keep an eye out for the Semillon. I'll be doing a my big pre-Rosh Hashanna wine purchase in the next few weeks. I would love some recommendations for Israeli wines.

[boaziko]

My selection would be:

White:

Castel ; Chardonnay ,Castel C.

Dalton SB reserve (2002)

Red:

Golan Heights: Yarden CS (1999 & 1997)

Flam; CS reserve (2000)

Golan Heights: Katzrin (1996)

Tishbi ; Kerem Ben Zimra (1999)

Dessert:

Golan Heights: Yarden; Noble Semillon 2001(Botrytis)

Golan Heights: Yarden ; HightsWine Gwurtstraminer (2000)

[Craig Camp]

Andre - thanks for taking the time. Quite extraordinary. Perhaps you can post your tasting notes if you have them in a form you can cut and paste?

Thanks for opening a door to a whole new world of wine most of us know nothing about. I look forward to tasting these wines.

[Stone]

Is it true that for a wine to be kosher must either 1) not be handled by non-Jews, or 2) be boiled? I believe that a long time ago bread could not be kosher if it was handled by non-Jews. (I'm told that the premise behind this was to make sure that there were Jewish bakers to supply bread so that Jews weren't relying on non-Jews; similar to Japanese bans on rice imports.)

[richw]

Andre,

WOW. Thanks for sharing such great info. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.

Rich

[Jason Perlow]

Yarden Winery just celebrated its 20th B-day and released 3000 0.375 bottles of:

Yarden Noble  Semillon 2001(Botrytis)

It is on sale since last week, and moving fast. Haven't tried it yet, but heard it is the best Israeli Dessert wine ever. It costs 95 Shekels = 22 $

Go for it, Passover would never be the same.

Boaziko

I'll look for this one.

[bloviatrix]

Is it true that for a wine to be kosher must either 1) not be handled by non-Jews, or 2) be boiled?  I believe that a long time ago bread could not be kosher if it was handled by non-Jews.  (I'm told that the premise behind this was to make sure that there were Jewish bakers to supply bread so that Jews weren't relying on non-Jews; similar to Japanese bans on rice imports.)

Only Sabbath-observing Jews may process the grapes in order for the wine to be kosher. "Boiling" or "mevushal" is a process where the grape juice is flash-heated to about 85 degrees C for mere seconds before it is cooled - the wine is never actually boiled. Not all kosher wines are mevushal - Gan Eden and Hagafen come to mind. But the advantage of mevushal is that anyone can handle the wine and its kashrut is not affected. (A bottle of non-mevushal wine cannot be handled by a non-jew if it is to remain kosher. Therefore, kosher restaurants only serve wines that are mevushal, so that there is no problems with the waitstaff handling the wine.)

[Andre]

Andre,

Do you know what prompted wineries such as Recanati and Tzora to become kosher?  I would think the winemakers would be afraid their wines will be locked into the kosher wine ghetto and not be seen by the general public.

Money makes the world go around....

Tzora winery, established 1993, was a one man show led bu Mr. Roni James. At the time, nobody believed a winery could exist in a kibuts where all should share.

In todays world, marketing is a big issue. Tzora entered the market in the wrong places with the wrong price. The only showcase provided was a poor looking winery with milk containers for fermentation tanks and the stink of hundreds of cows, one of the kibuts's main industry filling the air.

The fact that Mr. james pulled through to what Tsora had become now, is amazing, yet, compromises were made. One of the astonishing ones was for James to be behind the glass while he monitored the making of his first kosher wines, the stone ridge 2002. Perhaps the simplest Tzora red to be produced so far, yet, sold out to the American market in no time, cash on the spot.

The other big change was that several kibuts members joined Mr. James's team, with little to no vision at all and fast money as their goal.

A probabl next step would be the penetration of multinationals into the Israeli wine market wishing to add an Israeli kosher winery to their list. Several meetings were held on the matter in the last Vinexpo, with very famous Californian wineries and others.

Recanati was established as a kosher winery with two main share holders The Ben-Ari family [ owners of some of the estate and the land ] and Mr. Leni Recanati [ main investor ]. Wine maker Louis Pisco an ex - californian wine maker and chef, is currently the wine maker.

Their idea is to use the many connections the owners have to export their wines.

I will post some of the TN's of the better wines after I orginize them a bit

Thank you all for the compliments.

[Andre]

A recommendation for Israeli wines

A good sommelier would be asking you question before recommending wines. I chose these following wines according to their quality and potential.

When it comes to a new wine region, I would suggest being open minded, even if you have to suffer through a relatively high percentage of poorly made and dull wines.

It will be worth it when you come across the real thing.

Many wine amateurs can be found in the Israeli wine scene and might be praised either by their friends or good PR.

The wines:

Amphora

Professionally made wines available in the US of A. [East Coast]

Cabernet Merlot 2001.

This is a good example of marriage between the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

A concentrated nose of ripe red fruit with hints of red raisins and a subtle oak finish.

Medium to full bodied wine that is well balanced now but will continue to evolve till 2006-2007.

Bravdo 2001, Karmei Yossef.

A medium bodied good quality Cabernet Sauvignon with distinctive sweet tannins lingering in the mouth in the aftertaste. The use of different temperatures while fermenting, resulted in soft tannins very well balanced with fruits.

An impressive first wine from this winery will continue to evolve in the bottle in the coming 2 years. Lacks complexity.

Castel Grand Vin 2000.

Professionally made wines available all over the world.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon 40% Merlot, Bordeaux style.

One of Israel’s leading French style wines.

This medium bodied wine is a school for the use of French Barique.

The dominant French Oak flavors simply shadow any other flavor setting the red ripe fruits and good acidity aside.

Castel “C” Chardonnay 2001.

Grown or “eleve” in the barrel Bourgogne style for the first time.

Medium bodied, good texture, very good use of oak [ blends very nicely with the wine ].

Drink 2004-2008.

Ilan Misty Hills 2000, Tsora.

Made with the terroire in mind. Available in Israel only.

A cebernet Sauvignon – Merlot blend.

A long distance runner from the Neveh Ilan in the Jerusalem mountains.

Plenty of fruits, fresh and dry, herbs, spices and balanced oak flavores.

Though the wine is still closed, it is very well balanced with good acidity and plenty of red fruits.

Very good potential.

Cabernet Sauvignon Ilan 2000, Tsora.

Another great wine to look out for from this unique winery.

Ilan Cab 2000 100% Cab.Bin 72

Bottled June 2002

Red light cherry color with some depth

Ripe fruits toward dry plums with some black pepper and nutmeg in the back, sweet tobaco and fresh vanilla, sweet butterscotch candies.

Meduim bodied spicy with red fruits and tons of tannins and slightly alcoholic. Some of the fruits was lost during fermentation.[28 degrees top temp ] Starts with a very low temperature after the maceration froid [ 15 c ] fermentation takes 10 days.

Long distant runner. Little acidity was\added.

Ilan Cab 2001 a tasting from the bottling line:

Cherry bordeaux color with some depth

Red and black cherries with raspberries and black currants with toasted oak in the back. A concentrated syrupy nose with cassis med. + toasted oak. Still closed yet amazing. Some vanilla Nov 2001- July 2003. Allier 30% new.

In the mouth a very concentrated nose full of ripe fruits.

Some of the wine was oxidized. Wet wood and slight bacteria.

Young Astringent yet ripe tannins.

2001 – Thick skins – lots of tannins.

Some green tannins 6.5 % Merlot.

12 seconds sweet tannin finish.

Elul 2001, Sea-Horse winery.

Only God knows where these Gargists take their grapes from. Consistent tracking of the good vineyards and some sleuth work, will lead most tracks of good Cabernet to the Northern Galilee in the Northern Israeli border, and Merlot to Moav- Judah [surrounding Jerusalem].

Israel has no control over the viticulture and wine making process aside from the ministry of Health.

70% Cab. 28% Merlot and 2% Syrah turn this 1 year oak aged wine to a very good harmony between balance and complexity.

Very enjoyable now and may continue to evolve until 2005.

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and Merlot Reserve 2001, Flam

Available in the US of A. by Group Biagio. [East Coast].

Both of these wines are a mix between traditional and modern technique of wine making.

I tend to prefer the more “fat” rich and complex Merlot than the “correct” Cabernet, though the latter leads in most Israeli wine tastings.

Very good wines.

I will taste the newly released 2001 vintages again and post my notes later on.

2001 resulted in grapes with a thicker skin – well-extracted phenols could mean great wines this year, Not many wine makers managed to do this right, though I am still waiting for a surprise.

Jonathan Tishbi Reserve 1999,

Three single vineyard wines under the same label were created this year;

Sde – Boker : Hot climate Southern vineyard that resulted in a ready for drinking medium bodied wine though lacks complexity.

Kerem Ben Zimra: the famous North- Galilee vineyard resulting in good red friut concentration, yet again lacks a dimension to be somehow interesting. Well made though.

Kfar Yuval: This is Tishbi’s best wine so far.

A Long distance runner with a good structure, nice firm tannins, good acidity and a good potential.

Drink 2005-2008.

Kfar Yuval is right at the northern border with Lebanon.

Primo Merlot 2001, Orna Chilag.

One of Israel’s best Merlot in terms of complexity, balance, traditional use of oak and a well structured wine.

Most of the wine was produced from free run juice aged in 1\3 new oak with mixed French and Spanish oak.

Slightly alcoholic finish.

Orna, a long term peace activist, sought a remedy for many years of politics. This straightforward wine is an excellent start.

Impressive. Drink 2004-2006.

Most of the wine is sold in fashion stores in Israel and through direct marketing.

Other good producers:

Margalit vintages 1993 / 2000

Chateau Golan vintage 2000

Meishar vintage 2000

Zauberman Merlot 2000

Soreq vintage 2000.

Should be intersting though have not tasted the wine:

Ramim Cab. reserve 2000.

Could be that the wines are sold as clean skin.

Feel free to ask on specific Israeli wines you come across that are not stated here.

[bloviatrix]

I've long held a bias against the Israeli wines. But after your comments I figure I should open my mind to them. I've been scanning the kosher wine selections at the local stores. Most of the stores carry: Barkan, Binyamina, Dalton, the Golan Heights winery labels, and Tishbi.

What do you know about Efrat, in general and the Ninve Chard 2000, Samson Heights in particular? Also Amiad and Hamasrek?

I've been able to find the Galil Mountain Yiron 2000. Also, the Recanti Cab 2000.

[Andre]

In an earlier thread I related the development of The Israeli wine market to the Australian during 1950-1970.

Once the market opened-up competition is bound to elevate quality.

amongst the wines you mentioned I did not come across the Samson Height Chardonnay as it is probably uniquely exported to the U.S. [ with simillar wines like Kineret ]. They might be labeled differently in Israel.

Efrat specializes in sweet and fortified wines. Their shift into the dry wine world is lame and slow. Nothing to write home about.

Amiad winery specializes in fruit wines and in the last 3 years some red and whites. Their best wine is the Sauvignon Blanc.

Lately, their wine maker, Jeff had died. I don't believe they are producing any wines now, just fruit liquers.

Hamasreq were making some pretty awful wines but I am not familiar with their last vintage.

Benyamina is a large industrial winery that had been strugling to make a worth while wine for so many years. Finally they changed winemakers and Mr. Sasson, the new winemaker, should slightly elevate the quality. They are out with a deluded Tempranillo and Viognier for the first time in Israel.

Nothing to write home about.

Dalton are improving big time. They produce good quality medium bodied wines under the guidness of a South-African wine maker. Their Sauvignon Blanc is a big hit in Israel.

Galil mountain Yiron 2000 is the best wine to come out from Golan Heights new winery in the Galilee. Their Merlot and Cabernet Galil are light bodied and simple. The Yiron is a Cab - Merlot blend, Medium bodied that should develop in the next 2 years. [drinkable now but will be rounder in a tear or two ].

The Recanati Cab 2000 is again a very simple wine with dominat green tannins. Go for the Recanati Reserve, much better in terms of body and balance.

It is now safe to say:

Israeli Harvest is 20% less than last year due to the extreme weather.

[Andre]

This period being amongst the two best to sell wine [ Jewish new year -0 Rosh Hashana and Passover ] wineries are doing their best to ride the wave.

New kids on the block:

Following the change in the historical top management of the Carmel winery, the new CEO, David Ziv, is off to deal with two of Carmel’s biggest problems: Vineyards and imaging.

To deal with Carmel’s lack of control in the vineyards, growers are currently confined to 1400 kg of Merlot per Dunam and 1200 kg of Cabernet. Growers are finally being paid by the acre and not by the weight of the grapes.

Carmel consists of apx. 60 % of the Israeli wine market and ownes three wineries:

Zichron Yaakov – responsible for 70 % of Carmel’s red grapes.

Rishon Letsiyon – were most bottling takes place.

Ramat Arad – Carmel’s new winery that hopes to begin Carmel’s estate wines. Most wines are still bottled in Rishon with the exception of Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Ramat Arad 2000.

Carmel produces 30% grape juice, 30% sacramental wines [ sweetened cooked wines ], 30 % simple table wines and 10 % quality wines [ or better said – their quality brand names ].

The new “Regional” is supposed to deal with the medium quality old fashioned image of Carmel. Being the owner of most vineyards in Israel, they are going for single vineyard concept for their “regional” wines.

New release: ýSeptemberý ý2003.

Even though most fine wines in Israel are sold with English labels as a clear tendency to export, Carmel chose Hebrew labels for the “Regional” line sold in Israel.

Tasting September 11th 2003:

Chardonnay Tavor, Regional series 2002, by Carmel:

Only 2000 bottles produced.

Clear goldish brilliant color.

Very ripe aromatic nose with hints of vanilla, sweet cherries, tobacco and kiwi shell, ripe melons and sweet must.

A Very pleasant and round nose.

In the mouth the wine is very smooth on the entrance with a well balanced acidity and a medium body.

The finish is well balanced except for some bacteria stink that probably derives from the winemaker’s equipment.

Fermented and aged in oak for 8 months sur lie.

Wine makers Tsvi Skates and Haim Vichtenhaim did a great job on this one.

15 $ Drink 2003-2005.

Syrah Ramat Arad, regional series 2001 by Carmel.

4000 bottles produced.

Location: North-Eastern part of the Negev [ South]

Oak: 6 month in 1 – 2 y. French oak.

Brix 23 Ph 3.7

Dark intense red-ruby color.

Nose is still closed [ the wine is not yet officially released ], slightly vegi with notes of green tannins and some red sour fruits and spices lingering in the back. The nose opens up a bit after a couple of minutes, but will need several months to express balance. New oak is currently overpowering the wine’s nose.

In the mouth the wine is Jammy on the entrance with intense aroma of fresh berries. Good balance.

The finish indicates a young and still closed wine well balanced with oak but perhaps slightly too toasted.

A promising wine that will be a pleasure to drink in 6 – 12 months.

Wine Maker: Zichron’s Phillip Lichtenstein.

15 $ drink 2004- 2005.

Cabernet Sauvignon Zarit [ Kadesh Valley ] , regional series 2001 by Carmel.

Elevation: 480m above sea level

Brix: 24.1

Ph: 3.7

12 months in 1-2y french oak.

Dark black cherry intense deep color.

The oak slightly dominates in this massive syrupie fruit attack dominated by cassis and raspberries. Still closed, the nose is very promising.

Dominates the mouth on the entry with some hard tannins and slowly developing concentrated red fruits. Toasted oak, good acidity and a medium + body end this well made wine.

The after taste is well balanced with oak, dark chocolate and dried sour fruits.

Decanter needed for this wine or a large Bordeaux glass and some patience.

Carmel’s slightly overripe stink is again hovering , Otherwise, a well made good structure cabernet that will develop well.

Dring 2004-2008.

20 $

Cabernet Sauvignon, Ramat Arad , regional series, 2000 by Carmel.

Southern Israel region. 500m above sea level. Take left and you can hit the lowest point on earth in less than an hour, the Dead sea –416 m.

Alcohol: 14%

Brix: 25

Very dark ruby red cherry color.

A Massive red fruit with aged oak – Rioja type nose. Concentrated and still closed at the beginning but opens up after several minutes.

The palate discovers a massive young wine with plenty of soft and hard tannins and complimenting french oak

First impression: Not a Carmel wine. A classic hot climate estate wine with the winemaker’s full attention apparent in every detail.

The medium long aftertaste is dominated by oak in this very young fruity wine.

Drink 2004-2007.

23 $

This is a new era for Carmel, clearly not a money maker.

[bloviatrix]

I found the Recanati SR on friday. I plan on picking up a couple a bottles to try.

[Andre]

I assume it is the 2000 vintage. Can you confirm?

[Andre]

A Recommended Aged wine:

Cabernet Sauvignon Yair Margalit 1993. [ 150$ ]

This is the best Israeli wine of 1993 and probably the best choice of an Israeli aged wine.

An Exciting nose full of dried fruits manely prunes, dates , dried figs and molasses.

Very soft and mouth filling but already showing signs of heading down.

When consuming the second, third glass etc. it is best to remain with the memory of the first glass.

The following two bottles were identical although the cork was slightly in a better shape [Wrong choice of cork for this bottle].

If you have any in stock I suggest opening and drinking during this winter.

[bloviatrix]

I assume it is the 2000 vintage. Can you confirm?

It's the 2000 vintage. Cost $34/bottle. I bought 2. The bottle is somewhat of an unusual shape as it has a narrow base and flares out gradually towards the top.

So, what do you suggest as a good food pairing?

[Andre]

Several things come to mind but best of all would be a grilled juicy steak spiced with worcestershire sauce.

34$ is about the same price you would pay in Israel and the wine already sold out in most wine shops.

Don'y use a decanter but a good Bordeaux glass should allow you an axtra dimension as far as the nose is concerned.

Would love to hear your opinion,

Enjoy.

[Andre]

Following a request here is some info about the new Yatir winery.

Yatir

Israel’s largest winery, Carmel, is doing its best to gain control of the long lost Israeli wine market. The new CEO David Ziv is doing all the necessary steps in the right direction.

The new joint venture between Carmel and the grape growers at Yatir 50% shares to each , had lead to this new 500,000 bottle capacity venture.

Although a desert climate, the high altitude allows cooler temperatures in summer allowing the grapes to maintain some of the acidity namely at the very cold nights.

A heavily invested modern winery headed by the young winemaker Eran Goldwasser just came out with their first wines:

It seems they have a Sauvignon Blanc that is dominated by oak [oak fermented] to a level that leaves little if any characteristics of the grape variety. More of a Fumee’ type wine that is medium bodied with a massive oaky presence.

The Red Yatir that had been released is a fairly young wine, dominated by tannins and new French oak. This is a medium bodied wine that will open up in a year or so yet has little depth or concentration to show a promising development of fruit or balance.

The wine is made for the high -end market selling a little over 30$ in Israel. Prices should be the same in the U.S.

Kosher.

[bloviatrix]

Thanks for the info.

I just don't get why so many winemakers feel lots of oak is the way to go. I find it detracts from the fruit.